Going Home to Momma…. Film Photography Returns!
By mark hilliardatelierAhhh… It Feels So Good!
Oh my, I do NOT know where it came from
but I got the BUG again for more film photography! I have a cabinet
here in the Gallery just full of old film cameras plus a Leica M7 film
body that works with ALL OF MY M MOUNT LENSES! (see the last post HERE for more info on the lenses). I decided to purchase a new stock of several films:
- Kodak Tri-X 400, Ohh
- Eastman Double X 200, Ahh
- Rollei IR400 400, WOW!
- Kodak Tmax, Ho hum…
- Ilford HP5+ 400
I picked up
some stainless 2 roll developing tanks with a bunch of Hewes (don’t
skimp on your reels, buy the best!) Stainless Steel 35mm Reels. For
developing I like Rodinal One Shot due to its ease of use and a life
span of around 40 years. I simply mix it one tank at a time usually at a
1:50 ratio with water using a small syringe. It allows a very wide
latitude of contrast and iso control. I have used several other
developers but I keep coming back to Rodinal!
Now, I am
playing with several cameras. As I said my main and BEST camera is my
Leica M7. But here is a list of those cameras I am using:
- Leica M7 with Leica & Voigtlander Lenses
- Petri 7s, 1962
- Olympus XA
- Olympus 35 RC (comming)
- Shen Hao 4×5 Field Camera (about 12 years old)
The Leica
and Petri are my main two systems that I use most of the time. The Petri
has been in my hands since 1962 and still shoots great ( I did send it
off to have the light seals replaced and a new leather covering ).
Both cameras
are fun to use and reliable. With the Leica you get the world class
glass but with the Petri you get a link to the past, specifically MY
past as this was my 2nd camera I owed when I was young!
The Leica
uses batteries and sports a center weighted spot meter measured either
off the film or off the shutter. I find that it meters very reliable.
The Petri
has no batteries but rather a solar cell around the lens that drives a
needle exposure meter that you simply place into its center notch for a
good image! You will see examples from both of these cameras towards
the end of this post!
I usually
develop my negatives on Sundays. I have a film drying cabinet that I
use to dry the film without dust spots overnight. I then will scan the
negatives on Monday or Tuesday using a Nikon 4000 ED film scanner at
4000 dpi into the DNG format for editing and cleaning later in the week.
I usually shoot 2 or 3 rolls a week.
My favorite film is Rollei IR400. This is available at the big camera stores like Digitaltruth, Freestyle and B&H.
What makes this film so special is the fact that is very much like
Kodak Tri-X 400 as shot. It has a VERY THIN film base which really
makes scanning easy. BUT the most amazing thing about this film is that
it is sensitive to INFRARED! If you place a Hoya R72 IR filter on the
camera lens the film will record 720nm IR images! There is an ISO hit
due to the filter being so dark down to 12 ISO but it is worth it being
able to shoot in both normal B&W and IR B&W!
Next I like the Kodak Tri-X 400 film. It
gives great contrasts and has a very wide latitude in development. It
is well known and tested and for ultra long exposures.
Then comes
Eastman Double X Cinema film. This is a GREAT B&W film that gives a
very smooth gradation and lovely warm tonality with slightly increased
contrasts. This is motion picture film so unless you are going to buy a
400 foot reel you will need to purchase it from the store at Film Photography Project. They will sell it in
either 24 exposure rolls or a 100 foot bulk loader roll. It develops
nicely in Rodinal at 1:60 for ISO 200 but there are rations for 100 up
to 800 ISO! This film is very much worth experimenting with.
Whatever film you decide to use you will
be pleased with the results. Processing is easy to do with a VERY small
investment. You will need:
- Film Camera
- Film
- Chemestry: Developer, Stop (you can use water), Fixer and water bath with a Wetting Agent. $40 to get started
- Film drying hanger clips $3 for a bag of 2
- Film tank, either stainless steel or a Peterson. Peterson tank and reel is about $40
- Film tank reels (if stainless do not skimp on these). Hewes Steel are about $25 each
- Dark changing bag to move the film from the canister to the developing tank. $40
- You will also need some way to scan your film into a digital image or pay someone to do it for you.
That is it.
It normally takes me about an hour to develop 2 rolls. I will let them
dry for several hours then cut them into strips of 6 and put them into
plastic storage sheets.
Ok, lets take a look at the results of 3 types of film in 2 cameras!
I
hope that you enjoyed this post and its associated images. I have been
using film since I was 9 years old. At 13 I had my first darkroom at
home. I worked in film in my own darkroom until I was 18 when that
period of my life can to an end. 42 years later I re-engaged film
photography again and cannot help but ask “Why did I wait so long?” I
have been shooting digital since my career at Eastman Kodak when you
could ONLY get B&W digital camera systems! I have spent fortunes on
digital and have loved every moment of it. Film will NOT take any of
that away, I still have digital and continue to use it. But I have to
be honest and admit that working in film again fills me with a sense of
peace that I have not experiences in a very long time….
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