Thanks for stopping by my blog. With the Autumn Season starting (September 22, 2022) less than a week from today, I thought You'd enjoy a few freebies to enhance your photography skills. If you've been following my blog you know I'm a big fan of "giving back" to the Photography Community. Enjoy!
5 Tips for Success When Starting Out in Night Sky Photography – Free Quick Guide
As a photographer, the morning is an especially magical time because of the varied light it offers.
While
the same sequence of light occurs at the end of the day, it is often
easier to stay engaged with the moment when you have an empty schedule
early in the morning as compared to a typical evening.
In this guide, author Tomas Alvarez will offer some tips on how to maximize early morning light.
Most of these tips will focus on efficiently using the morning light, and one will be specifically for you as a creative person.
Here is what he will be covering:
What type of lighting to expect
The importance of creating a photography plan
Why you should get up earlier than you think you should
The importance of bringing neutral density filters
How to maximize your experience by stepping out from behind the camera
Have you ever sat and watched a storm in the distance, admiring the
shapes and textures in the clouds as they rolled past? Or have you
enjoyed watching a lightning show with thunder growling off in the
distance?
Perhaps you’ve been in awe of some of the fantastic storm images you’ve seen and wanted to capture something similar?
This guide will walk you through the steps needed to chase and capture stunning images throughout a storm.
Here’s what will be covered:
Safety
Terminology
Useful apps, tools, and resources
How to determine favorable conditions
What gear to pack
What to shoot
Editing your images
If you have a desire to chase some storms, this is the guide for you!
Everyone loves a fantastic sports shot! You know, the one with a
player catching the ball, and you can see every bead of sweat as they
make the winning play.
We know that many photographers out there
photograph their children in every sport ranging from little league to
figure skating. And most of the time, these folks are disappointed with
their results.
Okay. It’s time to get you off of the ‘Sports Mode.’
Lisa Cannon is an expert at sports Photography, and we have commissioned her to write us two guides on sports photography.
The first is on outdoor sports and the second will be on indoor sports.
Today, we are proud to announce “Top Tips for Improving Your Outdoor Sports Photography.”
Okay, you now have 7 no - cost guides to help you take better pictures. I hope you'll download them all, read, use, and enjoy them.
Here's another FREEBIE. "How to make $500 per month from your photography Hobby". Just copy & paste the link below into your web browser, click ENTER, and you'll be taken to the page on this blog that details how novice Photographer, "James Wheeler" did it, and is still doing it.
There’s nothing quite like a sunset. The sun slowly disappearing
below the horizon is one of the most awe-inspiring sights in the natural
world.
But despite their beauty, sunset photography is not as easy as you
might think. Their glory doesn’t always translate into stunning sunset
photos.
In this article, we’ve gathered our 11 favorite tips to help you capture stunning sunset photographs.
11 Tips for Stunning Sunset Photography
Shooting sunsets is one of the most popular types of landscape photography. It’s hardly surprising. But sunset photography is a discipline all its own.
You need to know what gear to use. And how to use it in the right
way. But follow our sunset photography tips, and you’ll become a master
of sunset photography.
1. You’ll Need the Right Camera
We know we’re stating the obvious, but different photography genres often require different cameras. And sunset photography is no different.
For sunset photography, you need a camera that is well suited to landscape photography.
You want to capture every detail, so image resolution is important to look out for when selecting a camera. You can go DSLR or mirrorless, but we recommend a full-frame over a crop sensor camera.
Medium format cameras, with their larger sensors, are also excellent
for landscape photography. But they are expensive and lack the
versatility of smaller format cameras.
One thing to look for in a camera for sunset photos is a high dynamic range.
A typical sunset shot will have brights and dark areas. You need to
know that the camera will be able to capture the detail in both. A high
dynamic range will bring depth to your sunset photos.
And good ISO range
is also important. It might look like some cameras have a limited ISO
range. But they often have expandable ranges, so make an effort to check
that out before purchasing.
Photo by Ben Griffiths
2. Select the Right Lens for Landscape Photography
When it comes to specific genres of photography, you want to have a lens suited to the work you’re doing.
For sunset photos, you’ll ideally want a wide-angle lens. They’re excellent for landscapes. And the wide focal length will allow you to capture a broad sunset scene.
Whenever you’re shooting an image that includes the horizon, you want
to include as much of it as possible. It helps provide the sense of
grandeur that’s a feature of good landscape photography.
You can still capture an excellent landscape image without a
wide-angle lens. But you’ll need to set your lens to its widest focal
length. Usually, you will want to include as much of the scene as
possible.
A prime lens is all you need. Zoom or telephoto capabilities aren’t necessary for sunset photography.
Your lens options will be determined by the camera you have. But Nikon, Canon, and Fujifilm all have excellent selections.
Photo by Byron Johson
3. Use Manual Mode to Capture Fleeting Sunsets
Modern cameras have excellent automatic functions. For sunset
photography, we recommend you go manual. Like Luke Skywalker, turn off
your guidance system and trust your feeling.
Conditions are constantly changing as the sun sinks lower in the sky.
You’ll have to adapt and change as quickly as the conditions. There’s a
higher risk involved. But the rewards will be greater.
The auto-settings will produce consistent results. But they can often
be flat and lifeless. So, to get the best sunset photos, you need to
master the settings. It could take time, but once you’ve nailed it, you
won’t be sorry.
Photo by Johannes Plenio
4. Adapt Your Camera Settings
The demands of a sunset scene are pretty unique in photography. You
need to have your camera settings adjusted for the purpose at hand.
White Balance
Set your camera up with a daylight white balance
preset. The sunlight won’t be as bright as at midday. But if you select
a different preset, it won’t pick up the richer colour tones of the
golden hour.
The auto white balance is another attractive feature. But again, we
say go manual. The auto mode is fine for most situations. But sticking
to the daylight preset will give you a more vibrant sunset image.
Aperture
Any landscape photographer will tell you to go with a narrow aperture. And they’d be right. Something around f.16 or f.22 is ideal.
A narrow aperture setting will give you a wider depth of field. The smaller your aperture, the more of your image will be in focus.
You are free to experiment with this. But a shallow depth of field might give you a flat and featureless sunset image.
ISO and Shutter Speed
Landscape photographers tend to opt for a lower ISO and a slow shutter speed. This approach will give your sunset photos stronger tones and sharper detail.
ISO 100 or 200 is a good place to start. You can venture lower if
your camera is able. You’ll need to compensate with a slower shutter
speed. Just remember the exposure triangle to get the camera set up correctly.
Photo by Robert Richarz
5. Use a Tripod to Avoid Camera Shake
A tripod
is a vital piece of equipment for sunset photography. Of course, you
could get some good shots without one. But having one will make your
life a whole lot easier.
A tripod gives you more flexibility with your camera settings. You’ll
be using a narrow aperture, so a tripod will allow you to use a slow
shutter speed without camera shake.
You’ll need a tripod with legs that can be adjusted independently.
You’ll be working in natural environments, and the ground will often be
uneven. The tripod needs to give you the level platform to work from.
Photo by Yash Prajapati
6. Use an ND Grad Filter to Capture the Perfect Exposure
During the golden hour, you often have brights areas contrasted with
dark areas. With sunsets, the sky around the sun will be bright. And
earth and clouds are dark.
Even a camera with a good dynamic range can struggle to find a balance between light and dark. An ND Grad Filter can really help address this issue.
A Neutral-Density Graduated filter is a tinted piece of glass you can
put over bright areas of your shot. It allows you to find exposure
setting that suit the whole scene.
If you don’t have a filter set, you can try exposure blending.
You take two shots of your image. The first shot has your camera set to
capture the bright areas. And the second shot has settings for the
darker sections of the frame. You then blend the two images in
post-processing.
If you try this technique, don’t move the camera between shots. The
composition needs to be identical. And you’ll need to act quickly. The
sun will be sinking fast, and you don’t want to miss the second shot.
Photo by Joris Linge
7. Look for an Ideal Location
Sunset is spectacular no matter where you are. But when you want to photograph sunsets, your location is essential.
Scout out the best locations
in advance. Take evening walks to find the best spots. You can take a
smaller camera with you so that you can experiment and generate ideas.
Find the locations where the sunset is at its most breathtaking.
Think about composition and what you want your images to include.
Perhaps there are landmarks that can make your sunset images unique.
If you’re travelling and you don’t have the time to scout locations, ask the locals. They’ll know all the best viewpoints in the area.
Some handy smartphone apps can help you plan for a sunset shoot. Photo Ephemeris and PhotoPills are two great apps that help predict lighting conditions for outdoor shoots.
It has to be a location that is easy to get access. On the day of the
real shoot, you’ll be carrying all your gear. Mobility won’t be as
easy.
Screenshot of PhotoPills app
8. Plan Ahead to Capture Stunning Sunsets
A powerful sunset can make you think time has stopped completely. But
when you’re shooting sunsets, you’re working against the clocks. The
sun sinks fast. And before you know it, the burning globe has sunk below
the horizon.
You should already know your location so get there as early as you
can. Give yourself time to get set up before the golden hour starts to
get into gear.
If it’s a location you’re heading to for the first time, set off early. Give yourself plenty of time in case you get lost.
The tripod needs to be flat and stable. And you need to get the
camera framed just as you light it. This preparation means you can start
snapping as soon at the sun begins its earthward descent.
Even if you’re only a few minutes late, you might miss the best
shots. You don’t want to be adjusting your tripod legs when the sky
explodes with colour.
Photo by Vivek Doshi
9. Use Clouds to Add Dynamism to Your Sunsets
There’s an assumption that sunsets only work when you have a clear
sky. But this is not true. If the sky is completely overcast, there
won’t be much of a sunset. But having clouds in the sky can add
something special.
Clouds
are the perfect canvas for the setting sun’s last splash of colour.
They can add extra shades and tones. And they’ll enhance the sense of
depth in your sunset images.
The weather is not something you can control, so there is a large
element of luck involved. But don’t be disheartened if there are clouds
in the sky. Embrace them. Watch how they move so you can plan your
shots.
There are many different types of cloud. They can add texture to a
smooth sky. And they can add depth to otherwise flat imagery. And they
can hold colour after the sun as stunk below the horizon.
The colours and textures often make clouds the most prominent element
of your shot. They can steal the show. Use them to strengthen your
sunset images.
Photo by Diego PH
10. Search for a Unique Perspective
For genuinely stunning sunset photography, you need your photos to
stand out. There are millions of good sunsets photos out there. But many
are very similar and much the same.
Embrace your surroundings. Natural features or landmarks in the
landscape can help to identify your image. In addition, they can help
tie your photo to that specific location, making it more meaningful.
Water is another asset to the sunset photographer. It has a
reflective quality you can exploit to make your sunset photos pop with
colour. And the surface also adds new textures. The ocean is an obvious
choice, but pools and ponds are excellent too.
Don’t let the weather scare you. Don’t venture out if it’s dangerous.
But if the conditions aren’t as you planned, head out anyway. It’s a
chance for you to experiment. And you might end up with some stunning
images you didn’t expect.
Photo by Chi Chen
11. Be Prepared for Outdoor Photography
If you live in a beach-side villa, you won’t need to consider much
other gear. But if your sunset shoot involves an excursion, there are
other things you will need.
If you’re not familiar with the area, take a map. Smartphones have GPS capabilities, but you might run out of battery. A paper map won’t let you down.
If you’re shooting in a remote location, plan your route home. Things look different in the dark, and it’s easy to get lost.
A torch is an essential piece of equipment for a sunset shoot. When
your shoot is over, night will have fallen, and you’ll be in the dark.
We favour a head torch as this leaves your hands free to pack up your
gear.
Warm and waterproof clothes are important. You might work up a sweat
hiking up to your location. But once the sun dips below the horizon, the
temperature can drop fast. And the rain clouds could close in at any
moment. You don’t want to be caught in a rainstorm unprepared.
Photo by David Mullins
The natural beauty of a sunset can make some believe sunset
photography is easy. But that’s not the case. Sunset photography is a
form of landscape that has a unique set of skills and considerations.
You need the right gear. And you need to know how to use it to make
your images special. And great sunset photos have features that make
them stand out.
We hope these sunset photography tips have helped, and you now feel
confident about shooting sunsets. Be confident and have fun. Go out and
experiment with the information we’ve provided.
Sometimes we get so caught up in thinking about what we can do to
make our photography better that we lose sight of how photography can
make us better.
Think about that for a moment. You are improving yourself by using your camera. Pretty awesome thought!
In this guide, author Leanne Cleaveley walks us through her growth journey through nature photography.
Along
the way, she will provide you with tips and suggestions on how to use
her story as a springboard for your photography and learning experience.
She covers…
How photography can soothe the soul.
Why nature photography, in particular, is calming.
How to ground yourself through introspection and exercises.
Using photography to relieve the stresses of work.
The benefits of having a plan or perhaps not having one.
The joy of shooting in any weather or any season.
How to enjoy the moment—even if you don’t take any photos!
Finding the ideal exposure is one of the first things that
photographers learn. Metering is a process in digital photography that
works out what the correct exposure should be.
The camera uses the so-called metering sensor, which is a device
located inside the camera. It measures the brightness of the subject and
adjusts the metering accordingly.
Some people use a light meter to calculate the appropriate settings. In this article, I will show you how to take pictures without the light meter.
Photo by Luke Barky
Why Should You Adjust the Metering?
The camera can’t change the exposure of separate parts of the photo.
This is why it needs to
figure out an exposure that works for the whole
picture. Many photographers encounter
problems with it when taking
images of high contrast subjects.
Noise reduction software has been steadily improving over the years. Noise
in a photograph looks like grains of sand, with a rough or “grainy”
texture to the image. Often the culprit is a high ISO. Photographers use
high ISO when shooting in low light or at night when a tripod and a
long shutter speed are not feasible. Digital cameras continue to
increase in their ability to make clear images at high ISOs. But there is a point where the noise is noticeable.
Whether you decide to remove high ISO noise is up to you. Some photographers like the look of noise. It gives the photos a vintage feel. But for those of you who want a cleaner look, I’ll show you what I think is the best noise reduction software.
Best Noise Reduction Software to Buy
Before we dive into the best software, let’s look at the images I
used to test noise reduction. I used two images in my quest to find the
best noise reduction software. They were shot at high ISOs and had noticeable digital noise. I took them with a Sony A7R3. I edited the baseline images in Lightroom Classic before applying noise reduction.
One image was a night shot taken at ISO 10,000. I chose this photo to see if the programs could distinguish between noise and stars.
Night sky with meteor. My settings were f/4.0 @ 10 seconds ISO 10,000.
The other was a wildlife image taken at ISO 6,400 with a shallow depth of field.
I wanted to see how the programs handle the blurred background and
detail in the bird’s feathers. Noise removal programs can create a waxy
look that would be noticeable in the feathers.
Blue heron. My settings were f/8.0 @ 1/500th of a second, ISO 6400.
I started my search for the best noise reduction software by looking
at complete post-processing programs that include noise reduction. I
then looked at noise reduction plug-ins for Lightroom Classic or Photoshop.
Here’s how I ranked the complete post-processing programs.
Capture One Pro is a complete photo editing program competitive with Lightroom Classic. Plans start at $14/month, and there is a free trial.
Capture One Pro
was the only program to get good results with both images. Some
plug-ins did better with the wildlife shot than either Capture One Pro
or Lightroom Classic. But Capture One Pro beat them all on the night
image.
I compared the photos edited in Capture One Pro with and without
noise reduction. The program did a good job retaining the detail in the
bird’s wings while also softening the background. Though the night photo
edited in Capture One Pro initially had more noise, the program did a
good job of removing noise in the sky.
However, while Capture One Pro will open RAW files, my Lightroom Classic edits were lost. I re-edited my RAW files
in Capture One Pro to provide comparison images. Bear this in mind when
comparing the results of Capture One Pro with other programs.
Capture One Pro
includes noise reduction to control both luminance and colour noise.
The detail slider brings out more detail. Unique to Capture One Pro is
the Single Pixel slider that eliminates hot pixels in your photo. These
are isolated white pixels that pop out of the dark areas.
Photo Ninja
is a full-service post-processing program that costs $129. The program
includes a noise-reducing program previously called Noise Ninja. As with
Capture One Pro, I edited my RAW files in the program. I created a
comparison photo and then used the noise reduction tool.
Photo Ninja was a close second! Capture One Pro just edged out this
powerful program thanks to its enhanced detail. But I loved the creamy
smoothness the Photo Ninja created.
Processing the images in Photo Ninja initially resulted in more
noise. But the program handled the noise in the wildlife image very
well. On the night image, the program did tend to eat stars and make the
sky clumpy. I liked the noise reduction results overall. With more
familiarity, I may get even better results.
As a photo editing tool, Photo Ninja is easy to use. The program
includes three noise reduction “engines”. I used Noise Ninja 4 Turbo.
The description given by the developers stated that this option gives a
more natural look and worked best on high-ISO images. I selected the
Smart preset option, which analyzes the image and applies a correction
based on my camera model. The results were pretty good straight away. I
added a bit more colour noise reduction and reduced the smoothing
effect. The training information on how to use this tool is
exceptionally clear.
The sliders were super sensitive. It did not take much to start
seeing noise reduction. It was too easy to go overboard on the smoothing
effects. I had to push the Color noise reduction sliders much higher
than the luminance sliders.
Lightroom Classic comes with the Creative Cloud plan, which starts at $9.99/month.
Lightroom Classic did an OK job with both images, and handled the
night image challenge better than some of the other programs. If you are
already an Adobe user, this program will likely handle most of your
light noise reduction needs. But for a challenging image, there is
better noise reduction software on the market.
Noise reduction
is located in the Detail panel in the Develop Module alongside
Sharpening. By default, the Noise Reduction sliders, Luminance and
Color, are set to zero.
When I pushed all noise reduction sliders to the maximum, there was a
noticeable difference in the image. But I also saw some colour haloing
around the bird’s wings. Most of the Chroma noise in the background
disappeared, but so too did some of the detail in the bird’s feathers.
In the night photograph, fainter stars disappeared leaving blank areas
in the sky. Even at 100, colour noise remained in the darkest part of
the image.
Photoshop comes with the Creative Cloud plan, which starts at $9.99/month.
I do a fair amount of photo processing in Photoshop, but have always used Lightroom Classic to reduce noise instead.
Photoshop came in last in my ranking. The built-in noise removal tools were sub-standard compared to the other programs.
Photoshop has a set of noise reduction filter tools. To find these, go to the Filter drop-down menu. Select Filter > Noise > Reduce Noise.
Photoshop automatically reduces noise. You have the option to adjust
the strength of the effect, preserve details, reduce colour noise, and
sharpen details.
For my wildlife image, I chose maximum strength and to reduce colour
noise by 100%. The results were alarming. Photoshop added an odd texture
to my entire image. I tried again and again with various settings. In
my opinion, Photoshop made the image worse. I tried it with my night
shot with similar results. Photoshop seemed to add rather than reduce
noise. I tried the other options under the Noise Filter. Median with a
radius of 2 pixels seemed to work the best. But it still wasn’t that
good.
If you use Photoshop for photo editing, it is worth investing in a plug-in.
Here’s how I ranked the plug-in noise reduction software.
Neat Image is available as a Photoshop plug-in or a standalone program for $39.00.
I ranked Neat Image as the best noise reduction plug-in for 2021. Not
only is it effective, but much quicker and less expensive than the
other plug-ins. The programs retained detail in the subject while
pleasantly smoothing the blurred background. Neat Image gave me a lot of
control over the noise-to-blur balance.
Once installed, the Neat Image plug-in shows up under the Filter
drop-down menu. Once open, Neat Image builds a noise profile of the
image. The program was quick and easy once I read the instructions. The
initial results were good. From there, you can adjust the noise
reduction amount, noise level, and sharpening.
Of all the programs, Neat Image was easily the quickest in rendering
changes. I had instant control over various sharpening options and
amount of noise reduction.
DeNoise AI
is noise reduction software from Topaz Labs. The program is $79.99.
There is a free trial available. This works as a standalone program or
as a plug-in for Lightroom Classic and Photoshop.
DeNoise AI did a good job of retaining detail in the blurred
background and removing chroma noise. But results were more mixed with
my night image.
When you open the tool, you will have three quick options: DeNoise
AI, AI Clear, and Low Light. I chose AI Clear as the description,
“removing noise from high-ISO images,” which seemed the best fit for my
examples. The program lets you select if you want low, medium, or high
noise removal (I chose “high”) and how much you want sharpness enhanced.
You also have sliders that allow you to control how much detail the
program recovers and how much colour noise reduction you want. DeNoise
AI also includes a mask feature that lets you selectively reduce noise
in parts of your image.
Even without enhancing detail, Topaz DeNoise AI is better than
Lightroom Classic. It preserved detail and removed noise from the
wildlife image. But it struggled with my night scene. I tried various
settings, but I couldn’t get the program to make a dent in the noise.
Noiseware is a plug-in for Photoshop by Imagenomic. The software costs $79.99, and there is a free trial available.
In
my opinion, Noiseware was similar to DeNoise AI. Both programs
struggled with the night image. But Noiseware smoothed the feathers
more, and so ranked lower.
Once installed, the Noiseware plug-in is
the Filter drop-down menu. You can choose how much noise to remove, and
also how much smoothing of details. Noiseware includes presets that
adjust luminance, colour noise, detail protection, and detail
enhancement. You can also adjust the presets, depending on the noise in
your image.
I chose Full Noise Reduction. This preset did remove more noise, but also smoothed the feathers.
In
both images, the results were like DeNoise. I liked the smoothness in
the background blur. Noiseware seemed to keep good colour in my wildlife
image. Knowing my night scene was problematic, I pushed the noise sliders to the max, but there was still too much noise.
Dfine is noise reduction software included in the Nik Collection.
This set of 8 plug-ins will cost you $149. You can only purchase Dfine
as part of the collection. A free trial is also available. I have used
an older version of the Nik Collection for years. I was interested in
whether noise reduction had improved in the current version.
Dfine handled the blurred background well, but not the detail in the
subject. Like the Photoshop other plug-ins, Dfine struggled with the
night image. But the results were only slightly better than using
Lightroom Classic without a plug-in. It doesn’t seem worth the effort to
edit my image with this plug-in.
When you open an image in Dfine,
it automatically corrects for contrast (luminance) and colour noise. You
have the option of removing more noise, balancing noise removal with
retention of detail. You also have the option to adjust noise in colours
selectively. One feature across the Nik Collection is the use of
Control Points. These are like the selective edits. Place a Control
Point over a targeted area, and you can control the contrast and colour
noise reduction for that area.
Dfine cleaned up a lot of the noise in the wildlife picture,
but there was still some chroma noise. I liked the result in the
blurred background better than Lightroom Classic, but the bird lost a
lot of detail and looked waxy. Dfine struggled with the night scene. It
removed all but the brightest stars and blurred the points of light.
The two images I used in this review challenged the noise reduction
software in different ways. There are pros and cons to each program
which I have outlined.
Comparison of noise reduction in complete post-processing programsComparison of noise reduction plug-ins
So, there are my picks! But you don’t have to take my word for the
best noise reduction software. Try the programs for yourself. Most have
free trials. Use the programs on dark photos or those with high ISO. Try
the programs on scanned film images. I would love to hear about your
results!
If you have been a member of one or more photography forums or social
media pages, then you have probably seen this question posted at least
once: “What should I start with first—Lightroom or Photoshop?”
The problem with such a question is that it assumes one should have either-or as if they are mutually exclusive.
In this guide, we’re going to look at a couple of reasons why you’d want to team up with both Lightroom and Photoshop.
We’ll also have a quick look at how you would do that.
Finally, we will witness them as the perfect team.
After
reading this eBook, you should have a good understanding of when to
call in Photoshop’s help while you’re editing images in Lightroom.
Perhaps not all of the reasons to do so, but certainly the most important ones.
This next photo is 
Here’s an example of where 
