Sorry I missed posting since last Monday.  I've been feeling a little "under the weather" and had to take some time off.  I'm now feeling fine, and back in the saddle.  I think you'll like this post as much as I enjoyed researching it.  

18 Secrets for Taking Awesome City Photography

By Andrea Minoia 

 

Cities are the most beautiful, vibrant and ever-changing playgrounds for photographers. City photography is not only about breathtaking skylines and cityscapes, though.

It is easy to play it safe and limit yourself to the classic tourist snapshots. Or to be overwhelmed and try to shoot everything that moves or stands tall.

In this article, I will share 18 tips to help you to take breathtaking city pictures.

Golden Rules for the Urban Photographer

Be Safe

Every city has its fair share of crimes. Ask the locals and tourist offices for places a tourist should avoid. Keep in mind that what seems like a nice, common street by day can be a risky area by night.

A small alley in Copenhagen. It looks nice by day, but I have no idea if it is the safest place at night.

Be aware of what is going on around you. Try not to attract too much attention by walking around with lots of equipment. If you are not on a professional assignment, you may ditch your expensive pro gear. Take more modest-looking bridge or compact camera instead.

You won’t compromise much image quality, and you’ll be safer. It’s always a good idea not to go out on your own but bring a friend or two when it gets dark.

Be Respectful of Others

The city is not your home studio, and the people you see are not there posing for you. Be respectful and not imposing or threatening.

Some street photographers like to jump at people’s face with a flash to get candid reactions. Like Magnum photographer Bruce Gilden. Not everybody is comfortable enough to do this with strangers in the street. And it’s not legal everywhere either.

Be aware that some places do not allow cameras. Some buildings (or parts of them, like the light display on the Eiffel Tower) are copyrighted. You can photograph them for your personal use. But cannot sell your images without paying royalties to the copyright owner.

Many (micro) stock agencies need a signed property release form.

The Atomium is a famous landmark in Brussels (Belgium) and it is copyrighted.

Stay Comfy

Urban photographers hit the streets for many hours at a time in all weather conditions. Dress comfortably, stay warm in the winter. Make sure to dress in layers and have good shoes.

If you are carrying heavy equipment, a backpack is more comfortable than a shoulder bag.

Keep Looking and Experimenting

Look up, look in front, now to the left, to the right and also give a good look behind you. Scan the city for small details, hidden patterns, interesting people and situations.

The best thing about city photography is that you cannot plan your pictures. There is always something new, even if you try to photograph the same location every day.

Did you notice the man with the frame?

Photographing from ground level or from above the crowd can help to shoot better street photography.

In this shot, I mounted my old Panasonic GF-2 mirrorless camera on a monopod to lift it well 

above eye level for a different view of the city street.

City Photography Gear

If you are visiting a city for tourism, a good zoom lens is far more important than the kind of camera you are using. A travel zoom lens for DSLR and mirrorless cameras is often all you need. They will allow you to shoot both cityscapes and candid portraits.

Bridge cameras with power zoom, such as Sony RX10 with its 24-200 f/2.8 lens, are great all-around cameras for the city. The fast aperture is also great for indoor use.

Pocketable compact cameras, such the Sony RX100 sporting a great 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens, are portable and can often be used where DSLR cameras are forbidden. Like at concerts and some events. Small cameras are also less intimidating when you shoot street photography.

Old TLR cameras (6×6 medium format film) are still great cameras to work with. Particularly if you like to create and work on projects.

But a TLR camera is also a great prop to show the city in a different way. I love to photograph the city through my Yashica Mat TLR camera and create more unique images.

Looking up at a modern building through my old Yashica Mat LM TLR camera.

Smartphone cameras are best used for the casual shot and for some work in street photography, as they are small and do not attract too much attention.

A travel tripod, such as the MeFoto RoadTrip S and the Gorillapod, is also a nice thing to have. Especially if you are after some night shots. Unfortunately, some cities have laws against the use of large tripods in the urban environment.

If you are unsure but you really want to bring the shot home, set up the tripod. But if you are asked to leave, don’t make a fuss. Sometimes a monopod is more accepted.

Some filters can be handy too. Graduated filters are great for getting those magical sunsets over the city. Neutral density filters can be used to shoot long exposures in daylight. They let you capture clouds or remove passersby and traffic from your images.

A circular polariser can remove glare from the streets and cobblestones in wet weather.

18. Frame Your Photos Through Archways

Shoot your image through archways so that it has a nice frame around it. In general, there are archways in older parts of the city. Sometimes you have to wait for the right time to get the perfect shots.

You can also look for interesting shadows that the sunshine generates through the arches.

Photo by Dora Jokkel

17. Focus on Architecture Photography

The most obvious kind of photography you can do in the city is architecture photography. Every city has famous landmarks such as monuments, buildings, churches and so on.

Basilica of the Sacred Heart, Brussels (Belgium). Also known as Koekelberg Basilica. Note 

the wide-angle lens distortions and how it affects the lamp post in the foreground.

A wide-angle lens is a must for capturing an entire building. But you will get some distortions in the image. If you can, try to put some distance between you and your target to reduce perspective distortions.

A careful composition can help to make the building more imposing. I did this by increasing lens and perspective distortions in the image below.

The Skuespilhuset (Copenhagen, Denmark) at sunset.

Famous landmarks are not the only kind of interesting architecture you can find. Look around for shops, train stations, modern corporate buildings and so on.

Focus on the typical architectural style of the city you are in. New York and Rome have very different buildings. But they are both iconic, and everyone would recognise them in city photography.

The entrance of the Luxembourg Metro Station in Brussels is quite interesting.

16. Shoot Cityscapes

There are two kinds of cityscapes: the skyline, where you see part of the city from a distance. And bird’s-eye views over the city.

Skylines require to put some distance between you and the city. A famous example is New York’s Manhattan skyline seen from across the Hudson River. Or the City from across the Tames in London.

Bird’s-eye views are taken from rooftops and high vantage points. Some monuments, hotels and buildings also give access to a panoramic terrace.

Keep in mind that no every city has a nice skyline. It is always worth to climb up to a higher spot and get a new perspective about the city.

Copenhagen at sunset from my hotel room on the last floor.

I’m lucky enough to live in a tall building on top of a hill in Brussels, and I like to sneak on the roof to take breathtaking images of the south part of Brussels.

The view from the roof of my building at sunset.

Sometimes, though, it is nice to zoom in a little to isolate some interesting buildings.

Note the different style mix and the huge graffiti taking up a full facade at the center of the 

frame.

15. Take Day to Night Shots

This technique is very particular. It consists of photographing the same place for many hours at a regular interval. All the images are then combined together to display the passing of the day, from morning to night. Photographer Stephen Wikes is a specialist of this technique.

Mons des Arts, Brussels (Belgium).

Day-to-night works best on large cityscapes, where you can create a smooth transition. Less time consuming alternative is what I call Golden2Blue (from the golden to the blue hour).

You can still observe how the city transforms with the hours. But you will have done so with only about an hour’s shooting.

You need a tripod, and you will occupy that spot for quite some time. Be respectful of others and 

don’t block a passage or the only view spot available.

Graduated filters can help to balance the exposition across the scene at sunset or during the day. Panorama stitching is a great way to create large cityscapes. And works very well with this technique.

 

A panorama stitch from the Atomium (Brussels, Belgium)

14. Shoot Fisheye Photography in Cities

Fisheye lenses are often considered toy lenses because of their distortions. But you can use them for serious photography to create interesting city images.

A few years ago, I did a project called Fisheye & The City. I found that the lens works very well in the urban environment.

Mons des Arts by night (Brussels, Belgium).

Fisheyes are compact and light lenses. They have very wide fields of view, are quite fast and have very large depths of field. Focus is not something to worry about. Even with manual lenses such as the Samyang 7.5mm f/3.5 MFT fish-eye lens I own.

We have written in detail about fisheye photography before. To summarise, it is all about understanding lens distortions and working with those to create more dynamic images.

The fisheye allowed me to capture the entire Atomium (102mt tall) from just across the 

street. 

The distortions and the light trails create a powerful, dynamic and uncommon view of this 

famous landmark.

The combined effect of lens distortion and architecture creates some powerful leading lines 

to the main entrance of Brussels Central Station. 

The increased distortions make the leaning building effect less disturbing. It’s handy when photographing a building from close range.

Tall buildings from a low angle give the idea of waves about to break on the shore. Again, 

for a powerful image where perspective distortions are not disturbing.

13. Focus on Colors

Colors are everywhere. Try to look for matching colours in your scene. Some cities such as Rome, Venice or Nice have amazing pastel colours everywhere.

12. Focus on Details

Buildings are nice and easy to spot. But look around for those interesting details that are everywhere to be found. This can be anything new from an ivy coated building to funny street art.

When I stroll around a city, I always look into empty courtyards or abandoned streets. You never know what hidden gem you may find in there.

Florence has lots of similar funny street signs

11. Focus on Patterns

Patterns are another exciting.subject in city photography. In harsh daylight, it’s better to focus on patterns rather than cityscapes. Take advantage of the strong contrasts due to the hard light.

Windows can reflect the sky. In the cloudless and sunny afternoon, I managed to get both a pattern and matching colours in this image.

10. Focus on the Weather

Weather can have a huge impact on your city photography. Brussels is not known for its thunderstorms. But I was lucky enough to catch a bolt of lightning striking somewhere across the street.

Bad weather at sunset creates spectacular skies. It will make your cityscapes stand out.

And what about a double rainbow over the city?

9. Take Golden, Blue and Night Hours Shots

To photograph the city with plenty of details during these times of the day, you need a tripod. But the results are well worth dragging your tripod around.

Golden hour over Brussels from the belvedere of Place Poelaert (Justice Palace).

At night the city transforms thanks to all the different lights. Yellows from the older parts of the city and bluish from the modern areas.

Brussels at night from the roof of my building.

Sometimes you will find some light displays at monuments, buildings and squares.

Mons des Arts by night, with the changing lights making the small park very picturesque.

And the night is the realm of the light trail from the traffic. Photograph at night down a road to get the classic car trails. Or you can be more creative and use a fish-eye to capture an entire roundabout and its carousel of light trails.

8. Look for Interesting Graffiti in the City

There is no city without graffiti. Most of them are quite pointless and not interesting, but some are very nice and artistic.

The best ones, though, are often quite small and unexpected, so keep an eye out while you wander the streets. Many cities are now very liberal about street art.

Vienna has a canal where graffiti is legal, and the artists repaint the walls every now and then. Brussels has a comic strip walk with walls depicting comic book characters. Florence has street signs decorated with funny figures.

And not to mention Banksy! The famous British street artist who left his signature work in cities all around the world.

Look for street art and interesting graffiti in every city you visit. Who knows, your hometown might have a few interesting pieces that you didn’t know about.

7. Use Infrared Photography in Cities

You can use infrared photography to add a wow factor to your city pictures. You may create fresh images of touristic spots. Also, it is interesting to see how materials look like in infrared light.

Infrared photography of the famous Justice Palace in Brussels. Because of the long exposure, 

passing cars were not a problem for this image.

To start, all you need is an infrared filter such as the Hoya R72 and a sunny day. With unmodified cameras, infrared photography means doing a long exposure photograph. So you will need a tripod.

Parks are great locations for infrared photography. The most surprising effects are on tree leaves and grass.

Parc du Cinquantenaire (Brussels, Belgium).

If you are curious about this technique, read our detailed article about infrared photography.

6. Shoot Long Exposures in Your City Photography

Long exposures are great in the city because all passers-by and moving traffic will be invisible in your image. You can do long exposure in daylight by using strong neutral density (ND) filters and a tripod.

The classic image is a black and white building with interesting architecture. It is standing against a dynamic sky with fast-moving clouds that will introduce movement to your image.

The Congress Centre in Mons (Belgium).

You can also combine a standard exposure with one taken with an ND filter. In the image below, I wanted to get the movement from the slow turning ferry wheel. I combined exposure for the city and the sky with a long exposure taken with a 10-stops ND filter.

The reason to combine the exposure was that the clouds were nicer in the short exposure.

A turning Wheel in Brussels.

5. Look Up

As I said, you should always look out for interesting subjects and angles. But don’t forget to look straight up at building facades for interesting shapes and patterns.

Look straight up at buildings and facades for interesting shapes and patterns.

4. Include People in Your City Photography

People are a big part of the city. They are everywhere and are interesting subjects. But remember: they are not buildings, nor are they there to pose for us, so be respectful.

Avoid photographing children or jumping in people’s face even if you are after candid portraits. Don’t photograph them just because they look weird or to ridicule them. Instead, try to build a story or convey a message.

It is easy to photograph people in touristic places as they are used to seeing other people photographing around and tend to ignore you. Also, smaller cameras can help you go unnoticed when you shoot street photography.

Strangers converge together in the main square in Strasbourg (France).

Photographing people can be intimidating. If you are shy, try practising with street artists (leave them a tip afterwards). Or photograph people that are on buses, trams, cars or trains.

Split Frame. This young lady spotted me and looked straight at the camera, while the tram 

provided a nice frame for the picture (Strasbourg, France).

You can also shoot from the hip. This means that the camera is at your hip and you aim and shoot blindly to go unnoticed. This requires a bit of practice, but autofocus can make things easier.

I was drawn in this photo by the empty cup of the man on the wheel chair. By shooting from 

the hip I was able to get a candid shot.

You can get more creative and photograph people in silhouette or out of focus.

A blurry street view where shapes, shadows and colours are playing a key role.

3. Look For Reflections in the City

Cities are full of reflective surfaces: puddles, fountains, windows, glass, steel. Reflections are everywhere. You just need to find them.

It is not rare to have multiple reflections interacting together, creating interesting patterns. This is often the case with modern buildings and skyscrapers with plenty of windows.

I love shooting after a rainy day and try to find puddles with interesting reflections. Water surfaces such as small ponds can also get you exciting shots.

The multiple reflections playing together create a checked pattern on this building’s facade.

2. Capture City’s Silhouettes

I like to capture the city’s silhouette against the bright sky. This way, I can focus more on the shape of the skyline, rather than on the building details.

Cityscape during a late afternoon walk in Copenhagen.

Sometimes the interplay between light and shadows is what makes an image interesting.

The Arc du Cinquantenaire in Brussels. The light filtering from behind the monuments 

adds interest to the photo.

1. Work the Angle

Don’t photograph only at eye level! This is the prime cause of boring images, particularly in touristic spots. Low angles can make for an unusual composition.

Strassbourg is not a game: this photographer means business.

The low angle in the image above, the tilt and the line in the pavement add interest to an otherwise common image.

Below is the most iconic place in Copenhagen: the Nyhavn canal. This is the tourist spot of that city, because of the colourful houses, the channel and the restaurants.

By tilting the camera, I was able to get a more dynamic and interesting composition.

Whether you are photographing in your city or you are visiting a new one, keep experimenting. Try to find new compositions even at touristy spots.

There are plenty of things you can try that I haven’t mentioned here. If you are not feeling confident enough, just take one classic shot of your subject before moving on with more creative ideas.

Keep an eye on shadows and patterns! Look straight down at the street from a high point of view rather than into the distance. Experiment with panning, intentional camera movements, and more.

Practicing with intentional camera movement and image stacking.

And, above all, be safe and have fun.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Four Best Tips for Shooting Dramatic Cityscapes – Free Quick Guide

Download Your Free Guide Now →

Cityscapes are a favorite subject of almost all photographers.

There’s something amazing about the idea of so many people concentrated in a relatively small space and impacting each other daily.

Lights in the windows of high-rises, street lights, and LED-lit company names all add to the drama.

Cities change over time, so each capture is merely a moment of evolution toward an unknown destination.

Photographer Tomas Alvarez has spent many hours and evenings photographing cities.

He’s developed a system to create cityscape images with impact.

In this guide, he covers his four best tips for creating dramatic cityscapes:

1. Look for interesting weather conditions, even adverse ones.
2. Shoot during the best light of the day.
3. Explore the area to find unique perspectives.
4. Look for compositions that lead the viewer into the photograph.

We know you’ll enjoy this eBook.

Get your copy now.

Photo Credit: Tomas Alvarez

Download Your Free Guide Now →

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

#Camera Filter Lens

10 Best Polarizing Filters in 2022 (For Perfect Landscape Photos!)

 

By Jenn Mishra 

Many photographers overlook polarizing filters. Their purpose is often mysterious, and the results are difficult to define. Polarizing filters are a secret weapon for landscape photographers. They reduce reflections and enhance colors. But don’t let landscape photographers have all the fun!

Polarizing filters also cut down on glare and reflections on glass. This is valuable when shooting in a city. If you like vibrant colors, a polarizing filter gives you the deep colors you crave regardless of what you are shooting.

There is a mind-boggling array of polarizing filters that vary wildly in price. Major companies often have a line of polarizing filters with different features. If you have tried shopping for a polarizing filter, you are justified in throwing your hands up in despair.

We begin by exploring what a polarizing filter is and how they work. Then, we cover the best polarizing filters on the market at different price points. Finally, we will explore their features in a buying guide and tell you how to use them. This article will help you find the polarizing filter that is right for you. I am currently in the market for a polarizing filter to fit a new, larger lens. So let’s look at the options together!

What Are Polarizing Filters?

Before we jump in with the best polarizing filters, let us look at what these filters do and why so many landscape photographers use them.

A polarizer filter is a piece of specially coated glass that fits onto the front of your lens. It is designed to filter certain waves of light. You may not be familiar with polarizing filters in photography. But you might have encountered polarizing sunglasses.

Polarizing filters may screw onto the end or attach with magnets. Or you can buy polarizing filters that drop into a holder fixed to the front of the lens. You can even stack a polarizing filter with other filters.

How Do Polarizing Filters Work?

Polarization has to do with how light waves behave. Most natural light is unpolarized. But when it is reflected or bounced, the waves scatter. This makes it hard for your camera to capture a clean image. Polarizing filters reduce the randomness of the light waves. Filtering the scattered light results in reduced haze, glare, and reflections.

Polarizer filters let you see under the reflections and glare on water, snow, or glass. They also deepen the color and boost contrast in a way that is impossible to replicate in post-processing.

A polarizing filter improves the vibrancy of water and lets you see below the surface. Your sky becomes more vibrant and reduces atmospheric haze. Some vibrancy tools in photo editing programs may be able to simulate contrast and color. But you can’t edit out reflections and glare. Without a polarizing filter, you’ll never be able to see into a window or photograph the depths of the water.

10 Best Polarizing Filters

Here are our top 10 best polarizing filters. Many companies listed have a choice of polarizing filters. We have chosen a camera filter from each line that represents some of the brand’s best qualities.

10. Hoya Evo Antistatic CIR-PL / Hoya Fusion Antistatic CIR-PL

Diving into the world of Hoya filters can be confusing. The company has a wide range of circular polarizers. But they also market some filters under different names only in the USA. Similar filters can vary in features. Hoya has a wide range of filters from which to choose. Their mid-level anti-static circular polarizing filter goes under the name Evo in the United States. A similar anti-static filter is called Fusion elsewhere.

The filters have 16 or 18 layers of anti-reflective coatings. They are water and oil repellant and have a hardened top layer. Anti-static properties are particularly useful in situations where dust is a problem. All but the largest sized filters are thin, which reduces vignetting. All Hoya filters have an aluminum casing, and Hoya often adds an ultra-violet filter into their CPL to block UV light.

The price difference between the Evo and the Fusion is considerable. The Fusion is the better deal.

9. Tiffen Circular Polarizer

Tiffen makes a range of budget-friendly circular polarizers. Some have better light transmission for low-light situations. Others are designed for wide-angle lenses. They also offer a warming filter with a yellow tint. You can also choose between a circular and a linear polarizer.

This entry-level filter is made from aluminum and is one of the top-ranking filters on Amazon. It is a good filter to start with if you want to try a circular polarizer without spending much money. The filter has no anti-glare or protective coatings. This may make it more susceptible to breakage. But Tiffen’s 10-year warranty gives you some peace of mind.

If you like this filter, Tiffen makes a range of filters. Their top-quality HT filter has high-quality glass and anti-reflective coatings.

8. Nikon Circular Polarizer II

Nikon’s Circular Polarizer II is one of the top filters on Amazon. This screw-on filter is made by Nikon, but you can use it on any lens. The size offerings are limited, and the casing is made from aluminum. But the filter is multi-coated to reduce ghost images and flare. It is marketed as a much thinner and lighter option. This reduces vignetting on wide-angle lenses.

The filter is one of the more expensive offerings on this list. You are paying for a known brand name.

7. Marumi DHG Circular Polarizer

If you are looking for a lower-priced filter with many features, try the Marumi DHG Circular Polarizer. The filter has eight layers of anti-reflection coatings and is scratch resistant. It is made from low-profile aluminum to avoid vignetting. The filter will block more light than the more expensive models. But the company promises unsurpassed color neutrality.

If you like this filter and want an upgrade, try Marumi’s flagship filter, the EXUS. This filter has 18 layers of coatings for ultra-low reflection that are anti-static.

6. Urth Circular Polarizer (Plus+)

Urth, formerly Gobe, is an environmentally conscious company using recycled packaging. Urth’s polarizing filters come in the standard (premium) model. Or the Plus+ (professional) model. The company also offers a CPL plus ND filter combination. Gobe’s rebranding created a price increase that upset some customers. But the professional filter has high-level features with a lower price tag than other filters on this list.

The Plus+ filter is German Schott glass with 16 layers of nanocoating. The anti-reflection, true-color coatings remove lens flare and glare. The coatings also protect the filter from scratches and dirt. Light transmission is on par with the higher-priced filters. The slim casing reduces vignetting and is made from an aluminum alloy.

5. Kase Wolverine CPL

Most of the filters on this list are of the screw-on variety. Kase Wolverine filters use a magnetic system. The filter comes with a magnetic adaptor that screws onto your lens. Once it is installed, the filter pops right on. You can easily stack a polarizer and multiple neutral density filters. The magnetic system is easy to use. But the filters are not designed to be left on the lens. They will dislodge when hiking. The company also offers a combined CPL and ND filter.

The filter is made from high-quality materials. It gives high-quality results at a mid-level price range. The filter is made from toughened B270 optical glass. The scratch-resistant coatings repel oil, water, dust, and fingerprints. Kase filters are extremely thin and lightweight.

Sizes are limited. But Kase also offers a magnetic square filter system that works for lenses of various sizes.

4. B + W Master HTC-Pol Käsemann (High Transmission)

Do not let the name confuse you. B + W (B “plus” W) does not mean that the filters are designed only for black and white photography. Made by German company Schneider Kreuznach, the company offers two levels of polarizers—basic and master. The master HTC (high transmission) film provides a sharper, richer image. But it comes with a high price tag.

The scratch-resistant filter has 16 thin nanocoatings that repel dirt and water. The filter mount is made from brass, and you can choose between the F-Pro standard or the XS-Pro slim mount. The thinner filer reduces vignetting.

3. Lee100 Polarizer

If you are in the market for a top-of-the-line filter system and don’t mind the cost, check out the Lee100 Polarizer. This filter works with the Lee100 filter holder, purchased separately. This filter is made from lightweight, high-transmission polarizing glass with subtle warm tones.

You can buy the filters in the shape of a circle or square. And both work with the Lee100 filter holder. But you cannot rotate the square polarizer. The square filter is best used in a studio where you have control over the lighting.

2. K&F XC CPL Filter 28 Layer Super Slim

K&F offers three levels of polarizing filters. Each level has a different number of coatings. But even the most expensive comes in as one of the most affordable on this list. It is our pick for the best budget-friendly filter.

The XC CPL filter is packed with features and has 28 layers of coating. The coatings reduce glare and make the filter waterproof and scratch-resistant. The casing is made from an extra-tough aviation aluminum-magnesium alloy. The company also offers a CPL with a variable ND filter.

1. Breakthrough Photography 4x Circular Polarizer

The Breakthrough Photography 4x circular polarizing filter has an ultra-slim brass frame. This eliminates vignetting on wide-angle lenses. The glass is Schott superwhite optical glass with 16 nanocoated layers. And the glass has a high light transmission.

Breakthrough Photography bills this filter as having the sharpest and most color-neutral polarizer on the market. The filter has textured edges and polarization guides printed on the side. These help you find maximum polarization. Filters are weather-sealed to withstand water, dust, wind, and salt.

You can buy the CPL filter on its own or combined with a 3, 6, or 10-stop ND filter. The company offers a 25-year warranty, adding safety to your purchase.

All the features and durability at a mid-level price range make this filter attractive to a wide variety of photographers. The company offers a lower-priced 2x version with slightly lower-quality glass and fewer coatings.

What to Consider Before Buying a Polarizing Filter

Polarizing filters vary widely in price. The least expensive filter on our list is around 30USD. The most expensive is over 300USD.

The higher prices usually reflect build and glass quality. They also have more coatings on the glass. Less expensive filters may cause your photos to have a soft focus or pronounced color tint.

The best polarizing filters balance affordability with quality. Let us look at some of the characteristics that affect the price of a circular polarizer filter.

Linear vs. Circular Polarizers

There are two types of polarizers—linear and circular. The name does not have to do with the shape of the filter. Both are often round. The name has to do with the shape of the light hitting your sensor.

Linear polarizers only let in light moving in a vertical or horizontal direction. Circular polarizing filters (CPL) filter the light twice. A CPL is constructed in two parts. The first element is a linear polarizer. The second element called a “quarter wave plate,” makes the light spin or circulate.

The circular polarizer helps cameras accurately meter light in the scene and reduces the effects of a mirror in your camera. Circular polarizers twist. This lets you gradually modify the light waves. You can reduce some reflections while leaving others.

Practically, both polarizing filters do the same job. But circular polarizers are the most common by far. The need for circular polarizers may change as cameras continue to change. If you have a mirrorless camera, the difference may be undetectable. Linear polarizers are generally less expensive.

NiSi 112mm Circular True Color Pro Nano CPL Filter

Color Cast

When choosing a circular polarizer filter, look for high-quality glass with no color cast. Some polarizer filters have a yellow, brown, magenta, grey, green, or blue color cast. “Warm” filters purposefully add a slight yellow color cast. It is pleasing to the eye and counters less attractive tints. You can correct the color cast in post-processing in some cases, so it is not a problem.

Thickness

Another thing to look for in a polarizer filter is vignetting or darkened edges. Thin filters create less of a vignette at wide angles. Thicker filters darken the edges of the image. Thinner filters are also easier to manipulate in the field. They are easier to screw onto your lens.

Light Transmission

Polarizers reduce the amount of light coming into your lens. Filter companies rate the level of light transmission, which is how much light the filter allows. The best polarizing filters have high light transmission. They block only 1 to 1-1/2 stops of light.

Cheaper filters may block up to 3 stops of light. You will have to compensate by increasing exposure. In most situations, this is not a problem. But if you tend to shoot in low-light conditions without a tripod, you may want to be extra sensitive to this feature.

Some companies combine a circular polarizer filter with a neutral density filter. If you often use an ND filter, this saves you from buying two separate filters and fitting them together.

Inexpensive polarizing filters block up to three stops of light

Glass Quality and Coatings

The price is significantly affected by the number and quality of coatings on the polarizer filter. Some filters have no coatings at all. The more expensive filters have coatings that reduce glare and make the filter scratch-resistant. They also have coatings that repel water, dirt, dust, and the oil from your fingerprints. Some have anti-static coatings. The top-of-the-range filters have coatings that harden the glass. These make the filters nearly unbreakable.

The glass quality and coatings applied can affect image quality. Depending on the quality of your lens, you may or may not see a difference. But if you mount a low-quality filter on a high-quality lens, the image quality diminishes.

Metal Casing

Because polarizers are mainly used by landscape photographers, build quality is a factor. The best polarizing filters are lightweight and protected by a strong, metal casing. The quality of the metal casing determines how easy the filter is to screw onto your lens and the ease of rotation.

The less expensive filters use metals like aluminum. The higher-priced filters tend to be made from brass. Higher quality filters can resist breaking when dropped. They keep their shape even if used frequently. The lower quality metals may bend with use.

Filter Size

Filters come in a range of sizes to fit different sized lenses. The size of the filter affects the cost. Most companies offer filters in a range of standard sizes from 52mm to 82mm. The larger filters cost more. When comparing prices, look at filters of the same size. A 58mm filter will seem inexpensive compared to an 82mm filter regardless of features.

When buying a polarizing filter, it is important to know the diameter of your lens. This is measured in millimeters and is usually stamped somewhere on the lens itself.

Mounting System

Most polarizers screw onto the front of your lens. Some have threads on both the back and the front. The front threads let you stack filters.

A few companies use a magnetic attachment to replace the screw-on design. You first screw on a magnetic holder to the front of your lens. Then the magnetized filter pops onto the holder.

Other companies use a drop-in filter design. You first mount a holder onto the front of your lens, then drop the filter into the holder. Magnetic and drop-in filters are easy to attach to your lens. You can add or remove them quickly. Drop-in filters may be round or square glass. They are often more expensive, partly because you buy the holder separately. But also because the filters themselves are large. The benefit is that this holder will fit on all your lenses regardless of size.

Some companies choose one system exclusively. Others have different lines of filters.

Which Size Filter Should You Buy?

Screw-on and magnetic filters come in many sizes that range from 39 to 105mm. They are designed to fit on lenses of different diameters because most photographers own lenses of varying sizes. Instead of buying filters for each lens, buy a filter to fit your biggest lens. Then, add high-quality step-down rings to use the filter on all your lenses.

Some photographers advocate buying a size larger than your biggest lens. This reduces vignetting at the widest focal length.

The Neewer step-up ring set is a budget-friendly option.

Another quality option is the brass adapter rings made by Breakthrough Photography. These are sold individually rather than as a set.

How to Use a Circular Polarizer

Using a polarizer takes a little practice. The polarizing effect only works when the filter is perpendicular, or at a 90-degree angle, to the light.

1. Put the polarizer on your lens.
2. Move your body so the sun lands on your shoulder.  This should put the light at a 90-degree angle to your lens.
3. Slowly twist the polarizer. Remember that polarizers are designed to rotate. This lets you control how much you are polarizing the light. As you twist, you should see reflections or glare begin to disappear.
4. Keep twisting, and the reflections return.

Many photographers do not see an immediate effect of a circular polarizer and ditch it. There is a level of experimentation that comes with a circular polarizer. The best position and rotation depend on the light in the scene.

Photographers use circular polarizers to reduce reflections in water and enhance color vibrancy in skies and foliage. Polarizers vary in glass quality, the number of coatings, and unwanted effects like vignetting and color cast.

The Breakthrough Photography 4x circular polarizer is a great choice as a mid-priced option. If you are on a budget, try the 28-layer K&F XC CPL. If price is no object, the Lee100 drop-in filters are top-of-the-line.

There is a range of options from high-end, expensive filters to budget-friendly offerings that have a lot going for them. When looking for the best polarizing filter, the trick is to balance quality with affordability.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

What Is Polarized Light and How Does It Improve Images? – Free Quick Guide

Download Your Free Guide Now →

We’re sure that you have encountered a situation at least once where you have been frustrated by glare or reflections hitting your lens from a body of water, glass, or perhaps another object.

When you looked back at your affected images, you realized that they would have been fantastic had it not been for the glare.

You’ve likely also heard of a piece of photographic gear called a polarizing filter.

Do you know what polarized light is and what it does?

If you’re curious about the technical side of polarized light and how it affects you as a photographer, then you will thoroughly enjoy this guide.

Here’s what’s covered:

• What is light, and how does it travel?
• What is polarized light, and how is it different from unpolarized light?
• What are the two different types of polarizing filters?
• What filter do you need for your camera system?
• Should you invest in a round or square polarizing filter?
• What are the characteristics of a good polarizing filter versus a less expensive one?
• Can you mimic polarized light using post-processing software?
• How should you properly use a polarizing filter?

The answers are all right here.

Grab your copy.

Photo Credit: Tobie Schwalkwyk

Download Your Free Guide Now →

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------