Monday, September 30, 2013
Wallpapers
Among my favorite things to post are computer wallpapers. The fact that you are viewing my blog tells me you have an internet connection. In my mind, that most likely means you're on a computer. So, enjoy the posted pics below.
For more computer wallpapers, please scroll down the right side of this blog until you come to "2010", left click on it and you will be taken to over 400 more wallpapers. Thanks for stopping by. "til next time, happy shutter bugging.
Thursday, September 26, 2013
The SLR Camera
"The
SLR camera is by far the most popular type of camera for novice and
professional photographers. One of the main reasons for this is its what
you see is what you get factor."
While most point and click cameras have a viewfinder that is usually located above the lens, the SLR's viewfinder lets the user look directly through the lens.So as long as the aperture, shutter, and film settings are set up for the scene's lighting conditions, what is seen through the viewfinder is what will appear on the photograph.
Proper Settings
To make certain that the camera is set up for the lighting conditions, three settings must be considered:Aperture - This must be set to allow the proper amount of light through the lens in order to get the desired depth of field.
Shutter - This speed setting will depend on available light, movement of subject, and exposure of film or film setting.
Film Settings - These must be chosen depending on available light, shutter speed and desired exposure effects (silhouettes).
Nowadays, most SLRs have auto settings that will choose the proper settings. But there are some neat effects that can be obtained by experimenting with these settings, particularly the aperture settings that control the depth of field.
Wednesday, September 25, 2013
How to Take Outstanding Pictures
Since
way back when I first began to study photography, I have been getting
asked how I take such good photographs. There are many different styles
and types of photography, but I usually end up giving the same key
photography tips for most of them.
Professionals Use SLR Cameras
I cannot stress enough, if you want to take quality pictures, learn how to use a Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera. You would not believe how many self proclaimed amateur photographers have not started to learn how to use an SLR (some still use those point and click cameras).
I know that with the advances in technology, digital cameras and memory are getting better and better every day, but there is just not enough versatility with a point and click camera. They are great for general day to day snapshots, but they will never match up to the versatility and professional results obtained with an SLR camera.
With that said, the increase in versatility equates to more functions in the camera. So, once you have a good SLR , learn these functions from the owners manual. Learn how to control the shutter speed, aperture settings, ISO (film) settings, and white balance.
Note: In older SLR cameras (not digital) ISO is a function of the film and refers to the film's speed. Only digital SLRs offer ISO function settings.
Clear the Viewfinder
Too many photographers shoot much wider then they really want and have to use software to crop the shot down to the scene they want. This just causes more work later, and there is no guarantee that all of the distractions can be cropped out.
Unlike a point and click camera, the viewfinder of an SLR uses a prism and mirrors that allow you to look directly through the lens. This is why, with an SLR, âwhat you see is what you get.â By taking everything in the viewfinder into account, you may notice distractions that you otherwise would not have.
Don't you hate it when you think you have captured a really good scene just to find out later that there was something distracting in the background?
Composition
One of the most often used techniques of composition is the Rule of Thirds. Divide the viewfinder into nine equally sized boxes like on a tic tac toe game board. Where the dividing lines meet is where interesting points in the scene should be placed. Relativey straight lines (vertical and horizontal), such as a long tree trunk or the ocean's horizon, needs to be placed on a horizontal or vertical dividing line.
This technique causes stress in the scene, and this stress causes interest.
Keep in mind that the more a shot is prepared before taken, the less likely Photoshop will be necessary.
Note: Before each major session change, reset the white balance of your camera. Lighting conditions may change throughout the day (from session to session). Correcting white balance between sessions will cut down on necessary Photoshop corrections. The answer to how to take good pictures does not involve correcting them later.
Portraits
Even though the techniques we just talked about work with just about any style, there are some techniques that are commonly used with particular styles. With portraits, the subject is not the entire scene, just part of it, so it is important for the subject to stand out.
Shooting the subject in a narrow depth of field is one of the easiest ways to make sure that he or she stands out. The depth of field is the length of the distance in front of the camera where things in the scene appear equally in focus. This is controlled by the size of the aperture opening. The lower the setting, the bigger the opening in the aperture and the more narrow the depth of field.
Note: This allows more light through the lens of your camera so the settings of the film (ISO) and shutter must be changed to compensate.
Taking a portrait of a subject in a narrow depth of field while keeping the foreground and background out of the depth of field makes the subject appear in focus while keeping the rest of the scenery a bit out of focus. This results in the subject really standing out and even seeming to pop out of the picture.
Landscapes
Another common style requiring specific photography techniques is landscape photography. Unlike portraits, with landscape photography the entire scene is the subject; it is often desirable to keep the entire scene equally in focus and to shoot at a wider perspective to encompass as much of the scenery as possible.
In order to obtain this, an infinite depth of field is needed along with a lens that allows a perspective broader than the human eye. This is why wide angle lenses are commonly used in landscape photography. These lenses allow a large perspective of a scene to be captured.
A high aperture setting must be used in order to obtain an infinite depth of field. This causes the opening in the aperture to be very small. To compensate for this the shutter must be left open longer. With that understood, it is absolutely necessary to use a tripod or other camera stabilizing apparatus with landscape photography so the camera will not move while the shutter is open.
I hope you have enjoyed this article and that it has been useful. If it has helped in any way, the next time someone asks how you take such good pictures, feel free to send them this article.
Professionals Use SLR Cameras
I cannot stress enough, if you want to take quality pictures, learn how to use a Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera. You would not believe how many self proclaimed amateur photographers have not started to learn how to use an SLR (some still use those point and click cameras).
I know that with the advances in technology, digital cameras and memory are getting better and better every day, but there is just not enough versatility with a point and click camera. They are great for general day to day snapshots, but they will never match up to the versatility and professional results obtained with an SLR camera.
With that said, the increase in versatility equates to more functions in the camera. So, once you have a good SLR , learn these functions from the owners manual. Learn how to control the shutter speed, aperture settings, ISO (film) settings, and white balance.
Note: In older SLR cameras (not digital) ISO is a function of the film and refers to the film's speed. Only digital SLRs offer ISO function settings.
Clear the Viewfinder
Too many photographers shoot much wider then they really want and have to use software to crop the shot down to the scene they want. This just causes more work later, and there is no guarantee that all of the distractions can be cropped out.
Unlike a point and click camera, the viewfinder of an SLR uses a prism and mirrors that allow you to look directly through the lens. This is why, with an SLR, âwhat you see is what you get.â By taking everything in the viewfinder into account, you may notice distractions that you otherwise would not have.
Don't you hate it when you think you have captured a really good scene just to find out later that there was something distracting in the background?
Composition
One of the most often used techniques of composition is the Rule of Thirds. Divide the viewfinder into nine equally sized boxes like on a tic tac toe game board. Where the dividing lines meet is where interesting points in the scene should be placed. Relativey straight lines (vertical and horizontal), such as a long tree trunk or the ocean's horizon, needs to be placed on a horizontal or vertical dividing line.
This technique causes stress in the scene, and this stress causes interest.
Keep in mind that the more a shot is prepared before taken, the less likely Photoshop will be necessary.
Note: Before each major session change, reset the white balance of your camera. Lighting conditions may change throughout the day (from session to session). Correcting white balance between sessions will cut down on necessary Photoshop corrections. The answer to how to take good pictures does not involve correcting them later.
Portraits
Even though the techniques we just talked about work with just about any style, there are some techniques that are commonly used with particular styles. With portraits, the subject is not the entire scene, just part of it, so it is important for the subject to stand out.
Shooting the subject in a narrow depth of field is one of the easiest ways to make sure that he or she stands out. The depth of field is the length of the distance in front of the camera where things in the scene appear equally in focus. This is controlled by the size of the aperture opening. The lower the setting, the bigger the opening in the aperture and the more narrow the depth of field.
Note: This allows more light through the lens of your camera so the settings of the film (ISO) and shutter must be changed to compensate.
Taking a portrait of a subject in a narrow depth of field while keeping the foreground and background out of the depth of field makes the subject appear in focus while keeping the rest of the scenery a bit out of focus. This results in the subject really standing out and even seeming to pop out of the picture.
Landscapes
Another common style requiring specific photography techniques is landscape photography. Unlike portraits, with landscape photography the entire scene is the subject; it is often desirable to keep the entire scene equally in focus and to shoot at a wider perspective to encompass as much of the scenery as possible.
In order to obtain this, an infinite depth of field is needed along with a lens that allows a perspective broader than the human eye. This is why wide angle lenses are commonly used in landscape photography. These lenses allow a large perspective of a scene to be captured.
A high aperture setting must be used in order to obtain an infinite depth of field. This causes the opening in the aperture to be very small. To compensate for this the shutter must be left open longer. With that understood, it is absolutely necessary to use a tripod or other camera stabilizing apparatus with landscape photography so the camera will not move while the shutter is open.
I hope you have enjoyed this article and that it has been useful. If it has helped in any way, the next time someone asks how you take such good pictures, feel free to send them this article.
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
Portrait Photography Tips - Shooting Wow Pictures
All
budding photographers, as well as those who've been shooting for
awhile, are all looking for the same thing. They want to shooting
stunning photographs that capture the "wow" factor. It is not an easy
thing to do, since beauty is in the eye of the beholder. However, it is
not impossible and rather than following rules, sometimes it is
necessary to break them. Be random and boldly follow your instincts to
find that special picture that makes everyone stop and take notice.
1. Change the Perspective - Nearly all portraits are taken with the camera at eye level. Change the perspective by changing the angle from which you're shooting. Get up high over your subject for one effect. From that vantage you may see an even more interesting aspect. Experiment with your composition.
2. Play with the Eyes - Eye contact or the direction in which the eyes are gazing heavily affects the effect of the portrait. Looking directly into the camera isn't always the most interesting way to shoot someone. It may be more intriguing to have the subject look off to the side, drawing those who look at the shot to wonder what's there, off camera, unseen. But be careful how you do this, because drawing the viewer's eyes to the side also takes their eyes off your subject.
3. Staying Focused within the Frame - In other words, have your subject holding an object, like a woman holding a baby, or a child holding a toy keeps the viewers eyes focused inside the frame and on the subjects. It creates a second point of interest and helps to create a story within the frame with the subject.
4. Composition Rules - Composition rules as listed in portrait photography tips, are made to be followed and broken. The rules are great to know and to use, but stretching them, or pushing to the outer limits makes for more interesting portrait art. Learn the rules, get comfortable using them, then learn to break them in order to achieve a more eye catching result.
5. Experiment with Lighting - The possibilities are endless with lighting. You are hindered only by your imagination and ability to be creative. There is no good and bad. So go ahead and play with the lighting. You might surprise yourself. Sidelight, back-light, silhouette, the possibilities are infinite.
6. Make Subject Move - Interesting portraits happen when you take the subject out of his or her comfort zone. Make them move. Put them in clothing or in a setting where you wouldn't ordinarily find them. Surround them with stuff that says who they are, but make them react differently to it. For instance, put them in business attire in an office, but have them jump up and down or read a book upside down. Again, be creative.
7. Don't Stage the Photo - Shooting candid shots are better than posing the subject. People, and kids in particular tend to tense up and hide rather than reveal their personality when the picture is staged and they are required to pose. Photograph your subjects while they work or kids while they play. Try to catch them reacting naturally to their environment.
8. Using Props - Enhance your shot by creating another point of interest with a prop. For example, if you're shooting a doctor, let them be wearing a stethoscope or holding a skull. Be careful not to let the prop dominate the picture, let it be part of the picture telling part of the story.
9. A Part of the Whole - Try focusing on a part of the whole, for instance, instead of shooting the head and shoulders of your subject, take a picture or two of their hands, or their back, or maybe even a shoulder with a special tattoo, keeping the face in shadow. Be dramatic and bold. Sometimes what is left out of the shot is as important as what is left in.
10. Variation on a Theme - Obscuring your subject in order to focus on one particular aspect works well too. In other words, shrouding a woman in a shawl leaving only her eyes visible and looking at the camera. Possibly making the shawl match the eyes of the subject making for a dramatic color statement.
The possibilities for taking creative and dramatic shots are limited only by your ability to think outside the box. Know the rules, know how to work them, then learn how to break them for a more creative effect. Finally, take a series of shots... not just one... shoot often and quick... sometimes, in order to get what you want.
I hope you have found these portrait photography tips useful.
Jonnie Blaylock is a hobbyist photographer that helps new photographers learn the fundamentals with his Portrait Photography Tips.
1. Change the Perspective - Nearly all portraits are taken with the camera at eye level. Change the perspective by changing the angle from which you're shooting. Get up high over your subject for one effect. From that vantage you may see an even more interesting aspect. Experiment with your composition.
2. Play with the Eyes - Eye contact or the direction in which the eyes are gazing heavily affects the effect of the portrait. Looking directly into the camera isn't always the most interesting way to shoot someone. It may be more intriguing to have the subject look off to the side, drawing those who look at the shot to wonder what's there, off camera, unseen. But be careful how you do this, because drawing the viewer's eyes to the side also takes their eyes off your subject.
3. Staying Focused within the Frame - In other words, have your subject holding an object, like a woman holding a baby, or a child holding a toy keeps the viewers eyes focused inside the frame and on the subjects. It creates a second point of interest and helps to create a story within the frame with the subject.
4. Composition Rules - Composition rules as listed in portrait photography tips, are made to be followed and broken. The rules are great to know and to use, but stretching them, or pushing to the outer limits makes for more interesting portrait art. Learn the rules, get comfortable using them, then learn to break them in order to achieve a more eye catching result.
5. Experiment with Lighting - The possibilities are endless with lighting. You are hindered only by your imagination and ability to be creative. There is no good and bad. So go ahead and play with the lighting. You might surprise yourself. Sidelight, back-light, silhouette, the possibilities are infinite.
6. Make Subject Move - Interesting portraits happen when you take the subject out of his or her comfort zone. Make them move. Put them in clothing or in a setting where you wouldn't ordinarily find them. Surround them with stuff that says who they are, but make them react differently to it. For instance, put them in business attire in an office, but have them jump up and down or read a book upside down. Again, be creative.
7. Don't Stage the Photo - Shooting candid shots are better than posing the subject. People, and kids in particular tend to tense up and hide rather than reveal their personality when the picture is staged and they are required to pose. Photograph your subjects while they work or kids while they play. Try to catch them reacting naturally to their environment.
8. Using Props - Enhance your shot by creating another point of interest with a prop. For example, if you're shooting a doctor, let them be wearing a stethoscope or holding a skull. Be careful not to let the prop dominate the picture, let it be part of the picture telling part of the story.
9. A Part of the Whole - Try focusing on a part of the whole, for instance, instead of shooting the head and shoulders of your subject, take a picture or two of their hands, or their back, or maybe even a shoulder with a special tattoo, keeping the face in shadow. Be dramatic and bold. Sometimes what is left out of the shot is as important as what is left in.
10. Variation on a Theme - Obscuring your subject in order to focus on one particular aspect works well too. In other words, shrouding a woman in a shawl leaving only her eyes visible and looking at the camera. Possibly making the shawl match the eyes of the subject making for a dramatic color statement.
The possibilities for taking creative and dramatic shots are limited only by your ability to think outside the box. Know the rules, know how to work them, then learn how to break them for a more creative effect. Finally, take a series of shots... not just one... shoot often and quick... sometimes, in order to get what you want.
I hope you have found these portrait photography tips useful.
Monday, September 23, 2013
Family Photography Tips - The Good Group Photo
Probably
the hardest picture to set up and pull off is the group family
photograph. These pictures only really work when everyone is on the same
page, looking at the camera and smiling at the same time. Synchronizing
by getting everyone to say "cheese" is the typical way to get everyone
smiling. But it doesn't always work.
Here are some things to think about when trying to snap that lovely family portrait to make everyone happy:
Put the Group at Ease - It is essential that all participants in the photo are at ease and comfortable with each other as well as the photographer. If the photographer also happens to be a family member then being at ease should not be a problem. With no strangers in the midst, relaxing before the camera is not a problem.
Move into Scene - Don't be afraid to move into the scene, cutting out the background and focusing just on the people. Crop off the top of the head of the taller people, in order to emphasize a connection among family members. Allow the drama of kinship and love to play out before the camera. Let the family members interact before snapping the picture. Saying "cheese" while always listed as one of the most important family photography tips, is not always a good one, and will make people go rigid and become less candid, so sit them down and let them get comfortable. The good shot will follow as you watch.
Blur the Background - Blurring out the background makes the people aspect more dramatic. It makes the family the focus of attention, because, after all, the family unit is what you're shooting.
Candid within the Group - There is always someone in the family at a gathering who doesn't want to sit for a picture. Today's small compact cameras make it simple to get candid shots without have to pose everyone. Keep the camera in your pocket as you work the room. Find your shot and compose it and shoot quickly. It takes practice, but grab-shots do come out well with a little thought and focus.
Taking Multiple Shots - When trying to capture everyone in one group, the only real successful way to do it is to take many shots, and quickly. Shooting in rapid bursts of three or four shots at a time will get the good shot for which you're looking. The first shot is usually a throwaway shot. However, the second or third will probably be the keeper. Shoot some shots before everyone is ready. Some of the best pictures are of the actual organizing to sit part of the activity.
Timing is Everything - Choosing your timing carefully will make or break the shot. However, true timing can only be learned with practice. Another of the suggestions that tops the list of family photography tips is that the quicker you learn to compose or to know what you want in composition the better will be your timing. Try to work taking of the picture within the natural flow of events, when the family is naturally together rather than artificially posed making them more rigid.
Lighting - No matter what type of photography, lighting is probably the most important element. In most instances a small flash will be sufficient. However, bigger family groups may require more lighting. Taking the photograph outside in natural light makes for an easier, less stressful shot.
Taking Control - It is paramount for the photographer to maintain control of the situation and communication is the key. Keep talking to your subjects making them understand what you want to do and need for them to do to make for a happy situation. If you have a really large group to photograph, then use a tripod and have someone act as your assistant.
Smile - Finally, there is nothing worse than a grumpy old photographer, so smile. That will put everyone else who has to take part, at ease. Have fun, act like you're enjoying the process. It's okay to crack a joke or two in order to get everyone to loosen up. And don't be afraid to be creative. Think outside the box. The group can be a group without sitting down next to one another with another row standing at attention behind. Emphasize other items of "family-ness." Play with it. Enjoy!
I hope you have found these family photography tips useful.
Here are some things to think about when trying to snap that lovely family portrait to make everyone happy:
Put the Group at Ease - It is essential that all participants in the photo are at ease and comfortable with each other as well as the photographer. If the photographer also happens to be a family member then being at ease should not be a problem. With no strangers in the midst, relaxing before the camera is not a problem.
Move into Scene - Don't be afraid to move into the scene, cutting out the background and focusing just on the people. Crop off the top of the head of the taller people, in order to emphasize a connection among family members. Allow the drama of kinship and love to play out before the camera. Let the family members interact before snapping the picture. Saying "cheese" while always listed as one of the most important family photography tips, is not always a good one, and will make people go rigid and become less candid, so sit them down and let them get comfortable. The good shot will follow as you watch.
Blur the Background - Blurring out the background makes the people aspect more dramatic. It makes the family the focus of attention, because, after all, the family unit is what you're shooting.
Candid within the Group - There is always someone in the family at a gathering who doesn't want to sit for a picture. Today's small compact cameras make it simple to get candid shots without have to pose everyone. Keep the camera in your pocket as you work the room. Find your shot and compose it and shoot quickly. It takes practice, but grab-shots do come out well with a little thought and focus.
Taking Multiple Shots - When trying to capture everyone in one group, the only real successful way to do it is to take many shots, and quickly. Shooting in rapid bursts of three or four shots at a time will get the good shot for which you're looking. The first shot is usually a throwaway shot. However, the second or third will probably be the keeper. Shoot some shots before everyone is ready. Some of the best pictures are of the actual organizing to sit part of the activity.
Timing is Everything - Choosing your timing carefully will make or break the shot. However, true timing can only be learned with practice. Another of the suggestions that tops the list of family photography tips is that the quicker you learn to compose or to know what you want in composition the better will be your timing. Try to work taking of the picture within the natural flow of events, when the family is naturally together rather than artificially posed making them more rigid.
Lighting - No matter what type of photography, lighting is probably the most important element. In most instances a small flash will be sufficient. However, bigger family groups may require more lighting. Taking the photograph outside in natural light makes for an easier, less stressful shot.
Taking Control - It is paramount for the photographer to maintain control of the situation and communication is the key. Keep talking to your subjects making them understand what you want to do and need for them to do to make for a happy situation. If you have a really large group to photograph, then use a tripod and have someone act as your assistant.
Smile - Finally, there is nothing worse than a grumpy old photographer, so smile. That will put everyone else who has to take part, at ease. Have fun, act like you're enjoying the process. It's okay to crack a joke or two in order to get everyone to loosen up. And don't be afraid to be creative. Think outside the box. The group can be a group without sitting down next to one another with another row standing at attention behind. Emphasize other items of "family-ness." Play with it. Enjoy!
I hope you have found these family photography tips useful.
Jonnie Blaylock is a hobbyist photographer that helps new photographers learn the fundamentals with his Family Photography Tips and more.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jonnie_BlaylockSunday, September 22, 2013
Thursday, September 19, 2013
Entertain Children with Fun Props
Posted by:
This week a client brought in a bubble machine to use for part of the portrait session. This unit (from Target for about $10) really puts out the bubbles! I was so surprised with the volume of it could produce. I would recommend saving doing the bubbles as the grand finale of the photo session. Get some traditional portraits first then bring out the big fun. (Caution: when using indoors, bubbles do make the floor slippery.)
Who wouldn’t have fun throwing rose petals
in the air? You can find all kinds of artificial rose petals in all
sorts of colors in the wedding supply isle of a large hobby store.
Invest in the more realistic ones. If you buy the cheap petals they
photograph cheap. Since you can reuse them over and over, the price is
worth it to get the more realistic kind. Picking up all of those petals
is not my idea of fun but it is worth it. Fortunately this gal had a big
sister to play photo assistant for me-she picked them up!Wednesday, September 18, 2013
Everyone, Pick your toes!
Posted by: |
When
you are photographing portraits, take a moment to grab some images that
are parts of the scene like I did with these guys’ little feet. Images
of just an ear, just a hand, or the back of a head are all parts of the
story. You may not even “feel it” but to a mom all of the parts are
wonderful and will pull at her heartstrings.I can relate to this a photo session I had of my husband and I on our farm just shortly after I had finished chemo treatments. One of the images was cropped just to my Labrador with my arms around him. To most people, not an award winning image, but to me, it was a heart tugging favorite and taught me a lesson to photograph more parts of images for my clients.
Tuesday, September 17, 2013
Finally a Flash for Outdoors
By
Why use a flash outdoors? I am sure you have seen many images where people’s eyes were dull and lifeless. Eyes need a catch light, that little reflection that makes them look alive.
Many photographers underexpose a subject’s face especially with outdoor portraits. A reflector is a good answer when you are working with one or two subjects and you have an assistant to hold the reflector but when you have a family group you need something more.
I have tried small flash units held off to the side of the camera but they never had enough power and the recycle time was so slow. Keeping them stocked with batteries was yet another chore.
This little unit is small, light weight, and still enough power to add sparkle to a family group’s eyes.
I got the green one at http://www.paulcbuff.com/b400.php (And might I add that they have great customer service!)
Monday, September 16, 2013
Stop Using F8 all the Time
ByIt is especially easy outdoors to shoot at wide open settings like this image
that was shot at f4. Of course you will want to use manual settings and
take a meter reading like a pro. (If you are unsure about how to do
this, I offer a manual you can find out more http://barbgordonphotocoach.com/products/beyond-the-manual-beyond-the-photography-instruction-manual )The boy’s mom said, “Oh, I like the background.” the minute she saw this portrait. She also ordered this pose. Why did it seem so interesting to her? It looked different to her because F8 is close to the amount of depth of field of the human eye so we are very used to that. Anything more detailed or less detailed will get our attention.
So to add variety to your photo sessions, use different f-stops for a variety in the looks you show your customers. It just might increase your sales too!
If you liked this article, please visit the Author's website at www.GordonPhotography.Biz
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Film or Digital
Film And Digital Photography: How Much Has Really Changed?
by: Andrew Goodall
Since digital cameras have taken over the photography world, there have emerged two types of photographers. There are old-school photographers who dismiss everything digital as fake, inferior, and not the same as 'real' photography. Then there are the digital photographers who think the film photographers are living in the dark ages. For the record, I use film. That is not because I don't like what digital photography has to offer. My reason for staying with film is simple; after 20 years of photography, I have a thousands of images on film that have yet to be put to good use. If I switched to digital now, those photos would probably be neglected for another 20 years and finally be thrown out. That's a lot of memories wasted. However, as a gallery owner, photography teacher, writer and club member, I am among digital photographers every day. Having lived and worked through all the years when photography has accellerated into the digital age, I have observed something that will surprise many people; not much has really changed. Being good at digital photography requires the same skills as traditional photography. You need to be able to work with aperture and shutter speed, understand depth of field and know how to handle moving subjects. A digital photographer requires sensitivity to light and contrast, and must develop a talent for creative composition. In teaching and writing about photography, I have been amazed by just how much things have remained the same. In some instances I have been certain that the new technology would create new challenges - only to find that for all practical purposes, nothing has really changed. Here is one example that is so similar it's spooky. In the days of film, you could buy film that was rated at different ISO speeds, relating to how quickly the film reacted to light. Faster films were great for allowing quicker shutter speeds in low-light conditions, but there was a sacrifice in quality. Photos taken on fast films had a grainy appearance, making them less suitable for printing big enlargements. Digital cameras have adopted the same ISO system. You can adjust the ISO setting on your camera, changing the speed at which your exposure will react to light. As before, this can be a great benefit, especially in low light. But here's the spooky part. When you set a higher ISO rating, your images become 'grainier.' Some people tell me it is pixellation, others tell me it is digital 'noise.' I don't know and don't really care. The point is, here is a whole new technolgy, recording images in a completely different way - and the outcome is exactly the same! Of course there are some major differences. The most obvious, and possibly the most positive change, is the elimination of film and developing costs from your photography budget. Add to that the convenience of being able to delete your mistakes and print your own photos, and your hobby just became a lot more cost-effective. That, however, has nothing to do with the actual skill of the photographer. Neither does the other revolution in the photography world. That revolution is software. With the aid of computers, people can work digital magic on their photos like never before. This has both positive and negative elements. Positive because the almost universal fascination with computers has seen a whole new generation take a real interest in photography. Negative because people too often rely on the technology to correct their mistakes, instead of learning to take better photos. Software can be wonderful. It can add a little 'zest' to a slightly flat image, or it can completely trasform a photo to portray colours and details that never existed in the real world. But software cannot overcome all the problems caused by bad technique. It cannot focus an out-of-focus image. It cannot correct a blurry photo caused by using the wrong shutter speed. And while cropping, cutting and pasting can solve some issues, they are no substitute for developing a real skill for composition. So, to return to my original theme: in the migration from film to digital photography, not much has really changed. That which is new is largely peripheral. While there are some advantages in terms of cost and convenience, most of the changes won't make you a better photographer. So here is my advice to photographers on both sides of the divide. Film photographers; don't be suspicious of new technology. Embrace it, make the most of its advantages, and you may be surprised just how easy it is to make the switch. Digital photographers; don't sneer at your more old-fashioned counterparts. The skills they have grown up with are the ones you really should be learning. ------------------------ Composition, aperture, shutter speed, depth of field...all the essentials of good photography seem simple when they are explained in terms you can understand. Visit http://www.naturesimage.com.au and check out Andrew Goodall's ebook "Photography in Plain English" to discover your own talent for photography. While you are there, subscribe to the online newsletter for even more tips...it's free! - See more at: http://designertoday.com/Articles/5347/Film.And.Digital.Photography.How.Much.Has.Really.Changed.aspx#sthash.9INbqXXY.dpuf
Friday, September 13, 2013
Surf Photography
What
first intrigued me about surf photography was the idea of two
completely separate entities, man and water, moving in opposite
directions yet in complete unison simultaneously. Where underwater dive
photography concentrates on documenting the life below the sea, surf
photography seeks to capture the life of the sea. Continuously offering
the ever-gratifying element of surprise, swimming in Mother Nature’s
most highly concentrated form of energy with a camera promises never a
dull moment nor the same photo opportunity twice.
The arrival of the first surf –specific water housing can be traced to the 1930s and a man named Tom Blake. A pioneer of not only surf photography, but of surfing itself, Blake put the first fin on a surfboard and created a template for the modern windsurf board. Most importantly, however, Blake crafted the first waterproof box enabling surfing images to be documented from the water.
The arrival of the first surf –specific water housing can be traced to the 1930s and a man named Tom Blake. A pioneer of not only surf photography, but of surfing itself, Blake put the first fin on a surfboard and created a template for the modern windsurf board. Most importantly, however, Blake crafted the first waterproof box enabling surfing images to be documented from the water.
With the invention of the 35mm SLR camera, the modern housing began to take shape as medium format housings disappeared, making way for lighter, smaller equipment. Evolution has brought us into the present digital age, where film has taken a backseat to the DSLR revolution.
Equipment
Today, water housings are typically made from hard plastic or carbon fiber, and can range from one single piece, to multiple adjustable lens ports and flash brackets. Where dive housings require construction allowing for deep rated depth durability, surf housings stay near the surface, allowing for lighter, smaller construction and depth ratings to around 30 feet. I recommend Aquatech© Water Housings. Each piece on their housings is detachable, allowing for easy equipment change without needing to buy a new housing, not to mention they are the most durable housings I’ve seen.Attempts to shoot surfing with a dive housing will prove frustrating, obnoxious and, more than likely, dangerous. Such a bulky, heavy piece of equipment can still be moved very easily by surging water above the surface, and without control of your camera/housing set up, it’s only a matter of time before you get a nice shot to the face from your lens port. I’ve seen too many broken noses and black eyes from ten-pound surf housings to trust something three times as heavy and twice as big in pumping surf. If you want to try surf photography but don’t have access to the equipment or money to buy your own, borrow a friend’s or research rentals. While they aren’t well advertised, they do exist.
There is a common misconception by those not familiar with surf photography that the photographer is on a surfboard shooting photos. For the most part, surf photographers are swimming freely in the ocean, supported only by the strength of their legs and the fins on their feet. Where dive photographers use large dive fins, surf photographers tend to use smaller body surfing fins that enable them to fit into tighter spaces and leave less to worry about when dodging waves. My personal recommendation: Viper Brand© body surfing fins.
Lenses and Focusing
Surf photographers have many lenses to choose from. Each lens serves a distinct purpose; a poor choice of lens can result in squandered opportunities. The most common lens is the 15mm fisheye or non-full frame equivalent (I recommend the Tokina© 10-17mm). A fisheye lens allows for perspective to be slightly warped, enabling more room in the frame. The typical “inside barrel” shot, as seen below, requires the photographer to anticipate exactly when the wave will break while being in the right position to capture the surfer in the perfect moment. To achieve a shot like this, a fisheye lens is needed and should be between one and three feet away from the surfer. There is little room for error: one misstep can cause injuries to both surfer and photographer. But when a shot like this comes together, it’s magic.Fisheye shots also work well when attempting to highlight impressive action on a wave such as a big turn or air, or accenting the size and shape of a wave close up. To achieve focus with a fisheye lens, you can set the focus before you ever get in the water. A useful trick: put your camera on auto-focus, focus on a wall approximately 3 feet from the camera, then switch the focus back to manual and you’re set to go. The more you stop down, the more will be in focus; pretty much any aperture smaller than f/5.6 will render everything in focus.
Sometimes when shooting at a large point or reef break with a channel, a photographer will opt to sit on a body board at a safe distance from the impact zone and shoot with a longer lens. With the element of risk gone, you have the ability to frame the shot in the viewfinder and designate focus. I find the best way to do this is enable the custom function that allows the rear button on your camera to focus (for Canon it’s the left of the two buttons on the top right on the back of the camera) and shoot on AI Servo continuous focusing.
When shooting wide angle it’s hard to have any control over selective focus, but with a long lens you have the ability treat surfing and water the same way you would shooting any subject on land with a small aperture.
Surf photography is unique because there are so many elements moving simultaneously. No matter how hard you try, you can never be in complete control of everything going on in the water. For example, in this shot I was trying to highlight the wave in the background shooting at 70mm f/2.8 using AI Servo focusing. It’s hard to tell from this angle, but this image is shot directly underneath a pier and at low tide. The surges of water pushing off of the pilings were pushing me back and forth as waves came and went. Just before I hit the shutter, a surge sucked me down, causing the continuous focusing to shift to the surfer’s leash and thus creating a distinct depth of field. This is one of those instances where an unavoidable and unanticipated thing happens that takes a vision and moves it to the next level. As a surf photographer, it’s some of these unexpected types of images that I cherish the most.
Shutter Speeds
When I first began shooting water images, I misgauged how fast a shutter speed to shoot at to capture action with no signs of movement. I began shooting at 1/500 of a second and couldn’t figure out why my focus was hit or miss because anything I had ever shot from land at even 1/320 had been sharp. After a lot of testing and countless missed focuses I found that to ensure no movement at all, the magic shutter speed is 1/1000 of a second. There are plenty of photographers that don’t even trust that and refuse to shoot at anything less than 1/1250, but 1/1000 has yet to give me any trouble.That said, good morning or afternoon light doesn’t always allow for those kinds of shutter speeds. In these circumstances you have three choices:
1) Shoot as fast as your camera allows for proper exposure. While you may not get perfect still action, sometimes you’ll capture something by accident that you didn’t anticipate. (below shot @ 1/500 second)
2) Experiment. Maybe shoot at 1/2 second and show some speed blur on purpose, or shoot at 1/60 second and pan with your subject.
3) Break out your flash. Yes, it’s possible to control light even in surf photography. Different housings allow for different control. Possibilities range from on-camera flash to supplemental flashes that are held by other swimmers and triggered by either your on-camera flash or a pocket wizard.
Another common misconception (even by some surf photographers) is that every shot must be front lit by morning or afternoon, directional, “beautiful light.” While these images have given surf photography its reputation, some of my favorite images are non-traditional. Getting the fundamentals of shooting down is key, but don’t be afraid to try something new! As in surfing itself, there is always room for progression. Count on it: if you don’t try something new, someone else will!
Quick Tips
Everyone has his or her own methods. Here’s a quick checklist of the valuable tricks of the trade I’ve picked up along the way:- When shooting fisheye, before you get in the water, spit on the lens port, rub it all over, then let it sit for a bit. Keep doing this once in the water and when ready to shoot, dip the camera in the water right before you fire the shutter. The spit will ensure that no water beads on the port for a good 5 seconds, so your image won’t get distorted by stray water drops.
- When shooting with a long lens, before you get your housing wet, wipe your finger along the inside of your ear and on the sides of your nose. You will attract a small amount of oil that when rubbed on the front of the port allows for water to easily bead up and drip off the port. Unlike shooting fisheye, however, you don’t want to dunk the port in the water. When swimming, do your best to keep the lens port out of the water. The oil is just a backup in case it gets wet.
- To capture still action, stay at or faster than 1/1000 of a second.
- Typical exposure in surf photography calls for shutter priority shooting. I shoot at 1/3 – 2/3 over-exposed shutter priority to make sure I get the highlights straight out of the camera. Unlike film, with digital you can always bring the blacks back. Underexposing your image will result in increased noise when adjusting exposure in post-production.
- Always double check that your housing is sealed before you get in the water. I’ve seen excitement to get in the water result in flooded housings and ruined cameras, so be careful!
- Don’t be afraid to experiment!
Wednesday, September 11, 2013
Freelance Photography: Digital vs. Film Case Study
Last week, the British Journal of Photography helped spread the news that Kodak will stop producing digital products as part of their ongoing strategic review? What is Kodak going to do? Refocus on good, old fashioned film.
At first, this sounded like brand suicide to me. But then I read on…
The news comes as Kodak is undergoing a wide-ranging strategic review of its businesses with the “commitment to drive sustainable profitability through its most valuable business lines.” But Kodak is quick to point out that the move won’t mean the end for Kodak-branded digital cameras. Instead, the firm plans to license its brand to third-party manufacturer – a move that mirrors Polaroid’s action in the years leading to and following its own bankruptcy. —bjp-onlineFilm has a core niche market. There are still photographers out there who use it, and use it religiously. Jonathan Canlas, a popular photographer based in Utah, recently came out with a book titled “Film is Not Dead: A Digital Photographer’s Guide to Shooting Film”. He also leads FIND (Film is Not Dead) workshops across the U.S. (which Kodak helps sponsor). There are about 65 testimonials about the workshop on Canlas’s blog, from photographers all over the place. Some of them are so jazzed about the workshop they’re writing testimonials before they have even attended!
Canlas shoots ONLY in film, and his business hasn’t suffered from the trend towards digital photography in the least. In fact, I’d argue his business has grown from sticking to his chosen niche.
Stacey Hedman, a New England-based photographer, has been using film again for about a year. She started noticing that the photographers she most admired were using film, and she stared to pull out her family’s old cameras to play around with. In addition of going to film, Hedman and her fellow photographers are using manual light meters and cameras that haven’t been manufactured in over 20 years. “With film I feel more connected to the process—there’s more soul and art behind it,” she says.
Hedman suggests two reasons why photographers may prefer film over digital: the richness and creaminess of the photos themselves and the film’s ability to retain highlights. “What I mean by that is that digital may blow out the white in a wedding gown, to where you don’t see any detail at all,” Hedman explains. “With film, you can go really bright, overexposed even, and in the photo you will still see every piece of lace in the dress. Together these things can create an incredible color palate and tangible softness.”
Digital photography has created photographers who spend a heck of a lot of time using editing software like Adobe Photoshop to edit and correct for exposure or mistakes. “With film, you need to be more thoughtful and truly understand your situation before clicking the shutter,” Hedman says. “When my film comes back, it’s almost completely “done” editing wise, meaning less time in front of the computer editing thousands of images.” When Hedman uses film, she finds herself taking less photos because she’s being more thoughtful and money conscious—it costs her up to $30 to develop one roll. But the lack of necessity of retouching before sending them to her clients is worth the time spent behind the camera in the first place.
Hedman didn't retouch anything on these film prints.
I know a slue of photographers who credit digital cameras with the rise in semi-professional photographers flooding the market—especially the wedding photography market. Just because someone has a nice camera, doesn’t mean they really know how to use it. They may have no idea what an aperture or an f-stop is, or bother to use manual settings on any occasion.
“The important thing to remember is that film doesn’t mean digital is bad, and digital doesn’t mean film is bad,” Hedman says. She personally considers her approach to photography to be a hybrid, because she prefers to use digital camera in the evening, or when an editorial client is on deadline. “Each medium truly excels for what it does, and it’s my job to know how and when to use my various tools.”
We’d love to hear from you freelance photographers out there about what you think of this “trend” back to film. Which do you prefer to use and why?
Monday, September 9, 2013
6 Totally Free Online Photography Classes
This blog space is mostly dedicated to those who have at least intermediate experience in the world of photography. However, if you’re just getting your feet wet, there are some classes that you can take to help you beef up your knowledge. And the best part of these classes is that they’re absolutely free. Not to mention that you can take them from the comfort of your home. Of course, you can’t expect to acquire all the knowledge you need about photography by taking lessons over the Internet. However, these free courses may just help you understand a bit more about the craft.
1. Introduction to Photography – MIT, which originally taught this course, offers complete access to all of the coursework materials, lectures and syllabus for the Introduction to Photography class. While you will not be taught by a live professor, you will be able to follow the schedules and, according to the website, “foster a critical awareness of how imagines in our culture are produced and constructed.” In addition, it offers instruction on black and white techniques, digital imagine, lighting, film, exposure, development, printing and black and white techniques.
2. Photography Basics – Jodie Coston helps you explore both the creative and scientific sides of photography through a four-lesson online course. In the course, you will look at the history of photography, various camera and capture types, camera basics and lighting.
3. Intermediate Photography Video Lessons – If you feel that you’re beyond the beginner’s lessons listed above, you might consider eHow’s online series. This free photography lessons take you through 15 videos that look at everything from basic photography tips and techniques to framing, how to take good pictures, head shots and poses and candid photography.
4. Photoflex Lighting School – This free online school is a resource for those who want to learn how to improve both their photographic and video lighting skills. The site explains that it is a place for intermediate photographers to deepen their knowledge of the craft; however higher-level professionals are also encouraged to visit and learn.
5. Weekly Photography Assignments – About.com offers weekly assignments to help students learn the ins and outs of photography with hands-on lessons. The beginner’s course encourages you to dive in and learn the basics of photography through taking pictures of your home, pets, trees, water, items in motion and shadows.
6. Sites in Sight: Photography as Inquiry – If you liked the idea of taking an MIT course to learn photography then why not try one more? The elite institute of technology is offering free access to coursework for its “Sites in Sight: Photography as Inquiry” course. The class “explores photography as a disciplined way of seeing, of investigating landscapes and expressing ideas.” It’s a great course if you’re looking to expand your knowledge of photography.
So now that you’ve learned about the courses that are available to you, it’s time to dive in! Being able to take advantage of free coursework is something no aspiring photographer should pass up.
This article was written by Melissa Tamura, who writes on the topic of online engineering degrees for the Zen College Life Blog. She would love to hear from you at melissatamura@gmail.com
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Photography Tip – Managing Your Photos
Image management is the term used by eBay sellers for editing, storing, and uploading your photos.Most digital cameras come with photo editing software. I happen to like Nikon’s the best. You can set it so whenever you plug your camera into the computer it automatically opens and you can import your photos with one click. Or, if you're a film photographer you can just scan your pictures via your printer, upload them into your computer and edit using one of the free editing software downloads below.
There are also a number of software programs you can buy to perform this function. If you own an Apple computer you are lucky because all Macs come with i-Photo which is one of the best all around photo editing and management programs on the market. There are some very advanced (and expensive) programs available such as Adobe Photoshop, but if your digital camera doesn’t come with one, there are some good consumer-level programs available as well. If you go to www.tucows.com there are a number of free image and photo management programs you can download. One of the best is PhotoPlus. The download is free, but they make their money selling the support and training tools which cost far less than most expensive programs and are excellent.
Whichever program you use, you want to be able to easily plug your camera into your computer, import the photos and then give them file names so you can organize them, and edit and crop them. Most of the software programs have a feature which allows you to adjust brightness and contrast also just in case you didn’t get a great photo in the first place. This is a real time saver because you don’t have to re-shoot your product.
Once you have your photos edited and named, you will want to create a folder on your hard drive called Auction Photos or something like that. Within this folder you will want sub-folders with the product categories you are selling. Simply file your photos to the appropriate folder so you can easily find them when you are ready to upload them to your auctions.
Once you have your photographs on your hard drive you now need to get them into your auctions. eBay offers two ways to manage your images. You can insert images from your computer’s hard drive one at a time as you launch auctions and eBay will charge you for each photo. The first photo is free and each additional photo costs $0.15. So, if you used four photos in a auction it would cost you $0.45 for every auction whether the item sold or not. This is obviously too expensive if you are running dozens of auctions a week. eBay also offers a subscription hosting program based on the number of photos you host. It starts at $9.95 for 50 MB, and goes to $19.95 for 125 MB and $39.95 for 300 MB. This is also very expensive although eBay does give you free editing software when you subscribe to this service.
Another way to host your photos is on a web site. If you already have a web site you can simply upload your photos to a web page and just insert the web URL of the specific photo into each auction. Unfortunately this is very time consuming and you have to pay for the web space.
You can also host your photos with an Auction Management Service. My favorite is Vendio. Another popular service is Auctiva. These companies will host your images as part of their service. The money you save using eBay’s hosting service will easily pay for the cost of most auction management services. You not only get photo hosting but you get a lot of features to automate your auctions as well. In my opinion this is the best way to go if you are going to be launching at least 15 or more auctions a week.
The images are stored on the web site of the auction management service. When you create an auction, you get to the page to select the images you want to attach and simply double click or select a check mark next to the photo. The service inserts the URL of the particular image into your auction. When the auction launches, eBay just looks for those images at the named URL and they are displayed in your auction every time someone clicks on it. If you select a gallery image, that URL is fed constantly to eBay’s web site so it is always visible when members are searching, browsing or perusing the gallery.
Once you start using an auction management service you will appreciate both the speed, and therefore timesaving aspects of hosting your photos this way, but you will get the whole host of additional services such as templates, automated customer emails, shipping calculators, and inventory management tools that come with the service –usually for what you would be paying eBay to host photos individually.
by: EZauctiontools.com
Saturday, September 7, 2013
Jewelry Photography Kit
Please read this Page carefully to photograph jewelry and small shiny objects.The EZcube light tent and jewelry photography kit can give anyone GREAT RESULTS with just a little effort and practice. However, there are some things you have to know before you start.
First of all you need the right camera. Not every camera will work for photographing jewelry and other small objects. Your camera must have the following features:
- Optical zoom lens –an electronic-only zoom lens will not work.
- Macro setting that allows the camera to focus up close
- Manual Focus – The highly reflective quality of jewlry will fool the laser focusing system in most cameras almost every time.
- Exposure Compensation – This is a setting on the camera that allows you to adjust the automatic exposure setting + or – in steps such as +1, +1.5, +2, etc. Once again when you are shooting jewelry against differently lit backgrounds, it can fool the meter in your camera.
- Manual Exposure or Aperature Priority Setting – When you focus up very close with a camera you lose what is called Depth of Field (DOF). Depth of field is the distance that is in focus from the front of the object you are shooting to the rear. If you shoot a senic shot of someone standing on a senic overlook and they are in focus as well as the mountains in the background you have huge depth of field. When you are outdoors with lots of light, your camera will stop the lens down to a very small opening. But if you shot someone indoors with just the surrounding light (no flash) you would see that they are in focus but perhaps a lamp or a painting on the wall behind them would be out of foucs. This is because the camera needs more light so it opens the lens wider.Professionals call lens openings, F-stops. The smaller the lens opening, the higher the F-stop number and the more depth of field you have. The larger the lens opening, the lower the (remember lower and larger both start with the letter “L.”) F-stop number and you have less depth of field. Now here is the problem with jewelry. When a camera focuses up close such as within 6 inches of an object, the depth of field can be as short a one inch. This means if you are shooting a piece of jewelry such as a bracelet that is two inches in diameter, part of it might be out of focus.If you buy a camera with an Aperature-Priority setting, you can set it to a high F-stop, which will increase your depth of field when you shoot up close. Sorry that was a long-winded explanation, but this is very important.
So
what does this all mean to you. If you buy an EZcube to shoot
jewelry, and you don’t have the right camera, you will be very unhappy
because you will not be able to get professional-looking photos. If you
are going to sell jewelry on eBay or through your web site, you are
going to have to invest in a camera with all of the features described
above. This means you are going to have to spend about $300 or more. (Or just use a good film camera instead)by: ezAuctiontools.com
Friday, September 6, 2013
EZcube Table Top Photography Studio Light Tent
The perfect solution for eBay and web site photography that anyone can use.
Save Money. Look in our EZcube Store for Special Package Pricing on complete kits. 
Several sizes available for all product types.This is where we sell the famous line of EZcube Table Top Digital Photography Studios used by more eBay professionals than any other studio solution on the market.
If you own a camera you can take perfect, professional-quality photos every time with no training whatsoever Three sizes for every application.
Using an EZcube makes product photography super easy. Simply place the object to be photographed in the EZcube tent and light the tent from two sides. There’s no need for flashes or strobes.
We recommend using daylight balanced fluorescent lights since they have good color balance and won’t get hot like incandescent lights (These come with all of our complete kits).
Simply place your item in the light tent, turn on the two lights and shoot. You will get a great-looking result every time. You can even place colored backgrounds in the tent. (We use construction paper from the art supply store).
Makes product photography super easy
All complete sets come with the perfect lights for Digital Tabletop Photography. These professional quality lights are cool to the touch, are easily adjustable and stay locked in position making them very easy to work with.
- Perfect for anyone that needs to shoot images for a web store, print or online auctions
- Click on the EZcube Store Link at left to see the various models and our Discounted Pricing.
- Portable: EZcube tent folds up into a 12 x 12 inch flat package. The lights can collapse and fit into a small duffel bag.
Each light set consists of a sturdy adjustable height light stand, a high quality 10″ reflector with socket, and our 30 Watt Trumpet Top daylight balanced compact fluorescent bulb. Two lights work great for most product shots.
What is included with every EZcube?
1. EZcubeTM- High quality guaranteed.2. White fabric background Sweep – Removable and machine washable, seamless backdrop.
3. Front Panel with double zipper- To completely enclose your product for shooting highly reflective items.
4. Top flap opening with double zipper- To access your products
without disturbing your setup; or to flip over something stationary.
5. Carrying case – Collapse and carry anywhere, or store the Frisbee size folded EZcube under the couch!
6. EZcube instruction manual and DVD - for basic use and lighting information, to get you started fast
7. EZ Rigging clips and grommets to suspend objects
Do you sell on eBay?
Subscribe to the oldest and largest FREE newsletter for professional eBay sellers. You’ll get up to the minute auction news, winning tips, product evaluations, wholesale resouces and more. Published continuously for 13 years -- the eBay Seller's News is still free! Please click here to read the current issue.by : EZ auctions.com
Thursday, September 5, 2013
Make Money With A Camera
Robert Atkins- Sell it. Best camera for this type of work is a Leica, preferably an unused “special edition.”
- Pawn it. Not as good as (1), but still not bad. Again, Leicas are the best kind of camera for this work.
- Lurk around in a dark alley, and when someone comes by, hit then over the head with your camera and steal their wallet. Here the superiority of medium format work really shines. Mamiya RB67s or Pentax 6x7s are very good. If you have to use 35mm, rumor has it that Nikons work better than Canons. Under really difficult conditions, use a sturdy tripod (always a good idea).
- Sell pictures to your friends and colleagues. The best way here is to follow them around in the evening and weekends. If you are lucky you’ll spot them doing something like going into a massage parlor or being stopped by the police for DWI. Pictures of these events usually sell for quite a bit more than the usual portrait work. 35mm is the preferred format, and a long-range zoom is the lens of choice.
- Sports Photography. Follow a prominent sports figure around all day, every day, and take close-up pictures with a wide angle lens and flash as often as possible. With luck and persistence you will be the victim of an assault, for which you can sue. Even an out of court settlement can be quite profitable. I’d suggest an inexpensive P&S camera for this type of work.
- There is no 6, 7, 8 or 9. What you gonna do? Sue me for article fraud?
- Become a pro by joining IFPO and sell yourself to people even more gullible than you are. Make lots of money, retire, and write a book about how to make money with your camera.
Wednesday, September 4, 2013
Auction Items Photos
By David Steiner
AuctionBytes.com
August 10, 2003
Several months ago, I wrote an article illustrating how to make an inexpensive seamless background for taking auction pictures (http://www.auctionbytes.com/cab/abu/y202/m11/abu0082/s02). A “seamless” eliminates distracting hard shadows behind the subject you’re photographing, giving your item a more professional look (and hopefully increasing bids on your auctions). The beauty of the seamless I suggested was that it only cost a few dollars to make and also folded up nicely for easy storage.
The EZcube is a photographic-nylon light tent that not only provides a seamless “sweep” background, but is also translucent. This allows diffused light to enter the inside of the tent from all sides, giving a soft, even light to the item you’re photographing. Here’s a page I created that shows an EZcube in action: http://www.auctionbytes.com/cab/pages/ezcube
The EZcube takes less than a minute to set up and simply entails pulling the expandable tent from its soft case, unfolding it, and attaching the “sweep” inside the cube by its Velcro tabs. (The sweep is a piece of nylon that attaches to the inside of the EZcube to make a seamless background.)
You can set up lights on either side – or do what I did, which was take the EZcube outside and let the sunlight filter through the light tent. The larger of the two available models opens up to a 30″x30″x30″ cube, which I found to be more than adequate for most of the items I sell. Dougherty’s site also sells a 20″x20″x20″ polyester light tent for smaller items.
The EZcube comes with a nylon panel that attaches to the front of light tent. The panel has a slit in the center that allows you to insert the lens of your camera and take pictures. This is very handy if you’re shooting something highly reflective and want to surround it 360 degrees. No more reflections in shiny metal teapots!
The front flap also diffuses light being thrown toward the front of your item. For example, I enabled the flash on my camera, and used the nylon panel to diffuse the flash so that no “hotspots” of light appeared on my item.
Another option is to put a piece of colored cardboard inside the EZcube, in place of the nylon sweep. That gives your pictures some variety, in case you get tired of the same white background. In fact, even though the nylon sweep is machine washable, Dougherty recommends using cardboard inside the tent to keep from soiling the material.
The most challenging aspect of the EZcube is folding it up to fit back into its 16″x4″ case for storage. There’s definitely a trick to it (the technique is outlined step-by-step here: http://www.tabletopstudio.com/documents/Folding-the-cube.htm). But once you’ve mastered it, you’ll be folding it like a pro!
I have to say that in nearly 5 years of doing online auctions, this is one of the most useful tools I’ve seen come along.
David Steiner
Tuesday, September 3, 2013
Kids
Tips on Child Photography
Learn To Photograph Children For Money Or Pleasure
Tips on child photography! How to create a stunning portfolio for yourself or your client - Where
do you start? Whether you are just here to learn how to get the most
out of your digital camera when photographing your own children, or are
looking to make a living from this style of photography, hopefully these
tips on child photography will lead you on your way.
Whilst infant or baby photography
can be one of the most rewarding areas, it can also be quite
frustrating. If you have your own or have been around young children
long enough, you will know what I mean! The term "never work with
animals or children" springs to mind and usually relates to photography
or film-making. However, done right, you will end up with photographs
that will last forever and really capture the spirit of the moment.
I have seen Mothers in tears (of joy I might add!)
when they have seen some photographs of their children, and you cannot
put a price on that kind of reaction! With regard to pricing, that is
something you must decide depending on the demographics of your
particular area. I find it easier to charge a little more for the
sitting but offer prints at a competitive rate, I normally get larger
orders that way!
If you are looking to do this type of photography for
a living, it can be both lucrative and ongoing as you may well become
the family photographer for many years to come. Kids change so much in
just 6 months so establishing yourself early on would be a great
business move. Just follow the links below in the order that they run.
If you have any further questions on any photograph
in this section, please fill in the form at the bottom of the page.
Also, please let us know if there are any other subjects you would like
to see covered.
- Be Prepared
- Smile Please
- Show Your Wares
- The Setting
- The Natural Approach
- Clothes and Props
- Equipment
- Lighting
- Be Ready
- The Formal Shots
- The Eyes! The Eyes!!
Article courtesy of: All Things Photography
Monday, September 2, 2013
Sunday, September 1, 2013
Cool/Cold Weather Photography
How to Use Your Camera in Cold Weather
'Tis
the season, and we're getting lots of letters from NYI students and
other Northern Hemisphere Web visitors about taking photos in cold
weather. There are lots of great photo opportunities out there whether
your idea of a good time is ice fishing, snow shoeing or just plain
walking in the winter wonderland. You just need to get out there and
take the proper steps.The letters we get reveal that the proper steps for winter camera protection are often confused in people's minds. Here's an e-mail we got recently from a photographer in Ontario, Canada, that is typical: "I am happily snapping away, but having a bit of a problem keeping my camera warm and unfrozen in our cold, blustery weather. If I carry it bundled under my coat, should I keep it in a plastic bag (I read about this somewhere) to prevent condensation? Any other suggestions for camera protection?"
Okay. You asked. Here are the facts and the answers to all the basic camera tips regarding cold weather.
The problem with lots of camera tips about cold weather photography is that they get out of sequence. Here's why. There are really three different scenarios to consider: First, what to do when you take your camera from a warm, cozy home or car into the bitter cold outside. Second, what to do when you're shooting pictures outside in the cold. Third, what to do when you finally bring your freezing camera back into that warm cozy house or car.
Okay. First, what should you do when you bring your warm camera outside? Do you have to worry about moisture condensing from the cold air onto the warm surface of the lens or the film or the electronics? No. Cold air has low moisture content. There's little or no condensation when you go outside into the cold. (As we'll discuss, this becomes a problem when you go back inside.)
So what's the problem? The main problem is loss of battery power!
Batteries
The chemistry and physics of how batteries generate electrical energy
means that at very low temperatures all batteries lose power. They're
just not as efficient. This is a particularly serious problem with
today's digital cameras that are totally dependent on battery power. So,
when you take your camera and flash out into the cold, you should
anticipate a loss of battery power. How do you prepare for this?First, by keeping the camera and flash (and their batteries) as warm as possible, even outdoors. To do this, when you go outdoors, carry them close to your body, for example, under your coat. Let them share your body warmth except for those brief moments when you are actually taking a picture. (Keeping your camera protected and warm this way will also minimize the possibility of a manual shutter sticking because its lubricant freezes.)
The second way you prepare for the expected loss of battery power in the cold is to bring spare batteries with you when you go outside. And keep these spares close to your body too; for example, in a shirt pocket where they will also benefit from your body heat. Then, if your camera (or flash) batteries start to fail, you can insert warm fresh batteries.
All right. You're outside now. What should you do differently because
of the cold? Your objective is to continue to try to keep the camera and
flash as warm as possible. For example, let's say you're staked out
waiting for wildlife to appear over yonder hill. Set up your tripod, but
if possible keep your camera protected under your coat until you're
ready to shoot. Here's where a quick-release head comes in handy. When
you see your quarry, pop the camera onto the tripod quickly and quietly.
An ice-cold tripod will do its job for far longer than an ice-cold
camera, which is likely to fail. Tripods, by the way, will eventually
freeze when temperatures are well below zero, depending on the type of
lubricant in the tripod's joints and head.We've noticed that some digital cameras, which tend to eat batteries anyway, conk out very quickly in cold weather. Carry lots of batteries. As we already noted, if you find your battery power failing, you have extra warm batteries with you.
Static Electricity
What
other problem bedevils the photographer in the cold (other than frozen
fingers and runny nose)? Static electricity. If you live anywhere in the
North, you know the problem during the winter – if you walk on a
carpet, you may get a shock when you shake hands or touch a doorknob.
Realize that static electricity is a problem only when the humidity is
low. And cold weather means low humidity because cold air cannot hold
much moisture. When you use your camera outdoors in the cold, therefore,
you risk creating a buildup of static electricity when you advance the
film (this is the equivalent of walking on that carpet) and when the
buildup is sufficient a spark may flash inside your camera, fogging the
film. While this is rare, it does happen. We've seen it and the results
ruin the affected photographs. How can you minimize this possibility in
cold weather? Advance your film carefully. With a manual camera, advance
the film slowly. With an autowind camera, shoot only one frame at a
time.
Keep Yourself Warm
And the final camera tip for shooting outdoors is for you to keep warm. Dress in layers. Wear good warm boots. Bring along a Thermos of hot soup. (Coffee and alcohol are counterproductive; they make you less able to maintain your body warmth!) And, if it's really cold, consider some supplementary heating devices, such as skiers use – plastic packets of chemicals that can warm the hands or feet when they are kneaded, or even battery heated insoles for your boots. You need thick gloves, but these are not great when it comes to pressing the small buttons on your camera. So consider gloves sold in backpacking stores that have fingertips or mittens that can be folded back so that you can momentarily use your bare fingers.
Shooting in Snow
What
about taking photographs when it's actually snowing or sleeting? If
it's just a few flakes, just keep your camera under your coat except
when you shoot. Not long ago, we were outside photographing when a heavy
snow squall hit. In a few seconds, the whole world was awash in
swirling, blowing soggy snowflakes. This kind of heavy downfall can play
havoc with the exposed parts of an SLR or digital point-and-shoot,
particularly the highly electronic models where any moisture can snarl
the all-important circuits that control all the camera's functions, as
well as digital cameras.Here's a camera tip for when it's really coming down. Don't use your SLR unless you have it protected by a waterproof device such as the plastic-bag type housings made by Ewa. These handy gadgets are designed for snorkelers – you put your camera into the plastic bag and seal it. Your camera's lens is positioned so it "sees" though a clear optical glass filter. Your camera is protected from moisture by the plastic sack and the lens by the glass filter. We should note that these are fine for snowstorms as well as snorkeling. They aren't made for higher water pressure that scuba divers encounter at greater depths. That's another topic for another article.
Another approach in snowy conditions is to use a waterproof point-and-shoot or even a waterproof single-use camera. Several single-use models put out by Kodak and Fuji have ISO 800 film and should be able to capture an image as long as it's not too dark.
If you follow these precautions, you should have no problem keeping your camera protected when working outdoors and taking all the great winter photographs that you encounter, regardless of the weather..
Condensation
Now it's time to come back indoors. Here's where condensation can be a problem. You've seen moisture condense on a cool glass of water on a hot summer day. Your lens and the film inside the camera behave the same way when you bring them inside – moisture from the warm inside air condenses on their cold surfaces. The lens can become completely covered with moisture, as can the film and the mechanical and electrical components inside the camera. You don't want moisture – water! – on your lens or inside the camera. So how can you avoid this problem?
Let your camera warm up slowly. Place it on a cool windowsill or an
unheated porch for a couple of hours so it can rise slowly to room
temperature. Since condensation can play havoc with an all-electronic
camera, you want even greater protection for them. This is where the
suggestion of wrapping a cold camera in a plastic bag comes into play.
The moisture will settle on the outside of the bag rather than on the
camera's outside and inside surfaces. You can protect the delicate
electronics this way. In fact, it's best if you place the bag on the
camera while still outside, not when you bring the camera in.With these simple precautions and camera tips, you'll be able to take great photographs outdoors in cold weather. Cold weather offers exceptional opportunities for wonderful landscapes because of its crystal-clear air. So don't be daunted when the temperature drops into the Arctic zone. Just dress properly, take these few precautions, head outdoors, and get going!
by: New York Institute of Photography
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