Camera Metering Modes Explained (How & When To Use Them!)

Tags: Shutterbug Photography, Rookie Photographer  

By Joshua Dunlop

By Tamara Kedves

Finding the ideal exposure is one of the first things that photographers learn. Metering is a process in digital photography that works out what the correct exposure should be.

The camera uses the so-called metering sensor, which is a device located inside the camera. It measures the brightness of the subject and adjusts the metering accordingly.

Some people use a light meter to calculate the appropriate settings. In this article, I will show you how to take pictures without the light meter.

Photo by Luke Barky 

 

Why Should You Adjust the Metering?

The camera can’t change the exposure of separate parts of the photo. This is why it needs to 

figure out an exposure that works for the whole picture. Many photographers encounter 

problems with it when taking images of high contrast subjects.

Let’s take landscape photography as an example. During sunset, you would usually focus on 

the beautiful sky with your camera. The problem is, this can result in the landscape and other 

parts of the photo being too dark, such as on the picture below.

To avoid this, you need to adjust the metering according to the subject.

The default metering mode of the camera is matrix/evaluative metering. To switch between 

the modes, all you have to do is to press the metering mode button on the camera (1.) and use 

the main command dial (2.).

You will see how the modes change on the camera LCD or the control panel.

It is crucial to reach a balance between shadows, highlights and mid-tones. This is what you 

should be aiming for when choosing a metering mode. Before taking a picture, you have to 

weigh the options that the different modes provide you with.

Let’s look at what camera metering modes do and when you should be using them.

What the Different Metering Modes Are

Evaluative (Canon) / Matrix (Nikon)

This mode has different names depending on the manufacturer. Canon calls it evaluative, 

whereas Nikon calls it Matrix. But there is no difference in the way they decide on exposure.

Matrix/Evaluative metering is the most complex and modern way of metering a scene. It 

collects data from across the entire frame and even gives priority to your focus point.

I prefer using this mode as it is the most reliable way of metering in most situations.

If the camera sees a bright area, such as the sun, it takes that spot into account. According 

to this spot, it will try to work out the best exposure settings.

Partial Metering Mode

This metering mode collects data from a small circular area in the metering centre of the 

camera. It covers about 10-15% of the entire scene and is only found in Canon cameras.

Partial light metering is useful when your subject is in the centre of the frame. Most likely, 

you want the camera to prioritise the subject during exposure calculation.

There’s not a lot of difference between matrix and partial metering.

Spot Metering Mode

Here the dot in the camera centre is smaller than partial metering, meaning roughly 5% 

of the frame. It sets the exposure according to where your focus point is. To get the focus 

point right and achieve your desire results, your subject has to be still.

This is a more advanced way of working out the good exposure for your camera. This is 

because it involves metering for the small area of your focus point. The rest of the scene 

may not be correct, leaving that up to you to work out.

Notice that the white fur on the dog looks much softer and less highlighted. Even though 

this is pleasant to look at, it leaves the rest of the scene underexposed.

Be careful when using this metering mode. It can be useful, but you don’t want to end up 

with all your photos in this style.

Highlight-Weighted Metering

Some newer Nikon cameras have highlight-weighted metering as an option. It is almost 

the same as spot metering.

But unlike spot metering, here, the camera recognises the highlights even in motion. 

This prevents the whites on your photo from blowing out. It is the most useful when 

photographing moving, highlighted subjects, such as a white car.

Keep in mind to adjust the shutter speed of your camera according to the subject in motion.

Centre-Weighted Metering

The centre-weighted mode is a halfway between matrix and partial metering. It measures 

the exposure of a pretty big metering spot in the viewfinder of the camera.

Most people take photographs in which the subject is in the metering centre of the image. 

DSLR camera manufacturers realised this. They needed to include an effective 

centre-weighted metering system in the camera. This way, photographers can reach an 

accurate exposure value.

You’ll notice in the photo below that the dog is quite well exposed. This results in darker, 

less visible background and surroundings. For this reason, centre-weighted metering can 

add a special atmosphere to your photos.

The outcome of centre-weighted metering can be hard to predict in digital photography. 

I only suggest using it when the corners of the frame don’t have much importance. You 

always have to look into the viewfinder and consider how much detail do you need to 

keep in the corners.

Average Metering Mode

This works in a similar way to matrix metering in photography. The camera looks at the 

light from the whole scene.

But it does so in a very unintelligent way. Not only does it not recognise what’s in the 

scene, but it also doesn’t make any suitable changes. If there’s a bright sun or a dark 

shade in a scene, the camera will treat this region in the same way as the rest of the photo.

This often results in over and underexposed areas in the same image. For this reason, 

average metering isn’t usually found in modern cameras.

Which Modes You Should Use and When

You should have a pretty good understanding of what metering modes do and when to use 

them by now.

But I’d like to go into more detail about the two I use the most – Matrix and Spot Metering.

I find matrix to be pretty good at working out what I want in the majority of situations. 

For me, it would be pointless to switch to centre-weighted metering.

When matrix metering doesn’t deliver the subject well, I use spot metering. It gives 

me more control over the light and dark parts of the scene.

Evaluative/Matrix Metering in Use

There are cases where the dynamic range of the photo is very small. This means, that 

there are no strong shadows or highlights. Thus it’s easier for the camera to balance 

the exposure with the help of light metering. I leave my camera with matrix mode on 

for shots like this.

I took this photo well into the evening when there were no strong highlights within 

the image. Hence I didn’t need any special metering modes.

This next photo is 

different from the one above since the shadows are stronger. The majority 

of the image is dark, but the effect that the matrix metering mode gives us is 

almost the same. It brings out the small amount of highlights on the side of the 

bridge. But it still keeps the silhouettes where I wanted them.

Here’s an example of where 

the matrix metering mode has prevailed.

The camera noticed the light creeping through the top of the photo and ignored it. Instead, 

it correctly exposed the rest of the picture. This is what we are looking for in difficult 

light conditions.

Sometimes on matrix metering, the camera sees a black subject and thinks that it 

should be grey. It will try to boost the brightness too much because it is aiming for 

the average 18% grey. This is where you will need to use exposure compensation 

to reach the desired exposure.

You can also switch the camera to manual mode and adjust the aperture, ISO 

and/ or shutter speed according to the light conditions.

Now let’s have a look at when you might want to use spot metering.

Spot Metering in Use

Taking photographs while facing the sun makes it a lot harder for matrix metering 

to get the lights right. You’re going to end up with silhouettes instead of correct 

exposure.

This is when I like to switch the camera to spot metering.

Remember that the focus point in the metering centre is very small. Make sure you 

have it pointed on something where the light balance is essential. Spot metering is 

especially useful in the case of portraits, where you are trying to set the skin tone right.

Take some time and experiment with the different metering modes. It could help you 

figure out your style, as well as give your photos an artistic look.

FREE Guide – Understanding Metering Modes

Download Your Free Guide Now →

Don’t be a chimp!

Have you ever watched someone taking photographs with a fancy DSLR and after every 

shot they check the screen to see what’s there? Have you done this yourself? 

Come on- be honest.

This has become so common that they even have a term for it now; it’s called ‘chimping’.

Chimping is when a photographer is CONSTANTLY checking the screen: sometimes 

after every shot.

Why are they doing this?

Because they don’t trust that they got the picture!

One of the prime reasons that photographers chimp is because their images are 

consistently too dark or too light.

And the reason for that- is because they’re not properly using their metering modes.

This week’s quick guide will teach you all about Metering Modes, Covering-

• What are the different metering modes
• What exactly does each metering mode do
• What’s the best metering mode for a situation
• How to ‘read’ the lighting in a scene and choose the correct metering mode based 
• on your knowledge
• And more…

Image Credit: János Csongor Kerekes

 

 

 

Best Noise Reduction Software for Photographers

Tags: Shutterbug Photography, Rookie Photographer 

By Jenn Mishra 

Noise reduction software has been steadily improving over the years. Noise in a photograph looks like grains of sand, with a rough or “grainy” texture to the image. Often the culprit is a high ISO. Photographers use high ISO when shooting in low light or at night when a tripod and a long shutter speed are not feasible. Digital cameras continue to increase in their ability to make clear images at high ISOs. But there is a point where the noise is noticeable.

Whether you decide to remove high ISO noise is up to you. Some photographers like the look of noise. It gives the photos a vintage feel. But for those of you who want a cleaner look, I’ll show you what I think is the best noise reduction software.

Best Noise Reduction Software to Buy

Before we dive into the best software, let’s look at the images I used to test noise reduction. I used two images in my quest to find the best noise reduction software. They were shot at high ISOs and had noticeable digital noise. I took them with a Sony A7R3. I edited the baseline images in Lightroom Classic before applying noise reduction.

One image was a night shot taken at ISO 10,000. I chose this photo to see if the programs could distinguish between noise and stars.

Night sky with meteor. My settings were f/4.0 @ 10 seconds ISO 10,000.

The other was a wildlife image taken at ISO 6,400 with a shallow depth of field. I wanted to see how the programs handle the blurred background and detail in the bird’s feathers. Noise removal programs can create a waxy look that would be noticeable in the feathers.

Blue heron. My settings were f/8.0 @ 1/500th of a second, ISO 6400.

I started my search for the best noise reduction software by looking at complete post-processing programs that include noise reduction. I then looked at noise reduction plug-ins for Lightroom Classic or Photoshop.

Here’s how I ranked the complete post-processing programs.

1. Capture One Pro

Capture One Pro is a complete photo editing program competitive with Lightroom Classic. Plans start at $14/month, and there is a free trial.

Capture One Pro was the only program to get good results with both images. Some plug-ins did better with the wildlife shot than either Capture One Pro or Lightroom Classic. But Capture One Pro beat them all on the night image.

I compared the photos edited in Capture One Pro with and without noise reduction. The program did a good job retaining the detail in the bird’s wings while also softening the background. Though the night photo edited in Capture One Pro initially had more noise, the program did a good job of removing noise in the sky.

 However, while Capture One Pro will open RAW files, my Lightroom Classic edits were lost. I re-edited my RAW files in Capture One Pro to provide comparison images. Bear this in mind when comparing the results of Capture One Pro with other programs.

Capture One Pro includes noise reduction to control both luminance and colour noise. The detail slider brings out more detail. Unique to Capture One Pro is the Single Pixel slider that eliminates hot pixels in your photo. These are isolated white pixels that pop out of the dark areas.

2. Photo Ninja

Photo Ninja is a full-service post-processing program that costs $129. The program includes a noise-reducing program previously called Noise Ninja. As with Capture One Pro, I edited my RAW files in the program. I created a comparison photo and then used the noise reduction tool.

Photo Ninja was a close second! Capture One Pro just edged out this powerful program thanks to its enhanced detail. But I loved the creamy smoothness the Photo Ninja created.

Processing the images in Photo Ninja initially resulted in more noise. But the program handled the noise in the wildlife image very well. On the night image, the program did tend to eat stars and make the sky clumpy. I liked the noise reduction results overall. With more familiarity, I may get even better results.

 As a photo editing tool, Photo Ninja is easy to use. The program includes three noise reduction “engines”. I used Noise Ninja 4 Turbo. The description given by the developers stated that this option gives a more natural look and worked best on high-ISO images. I selected the Smart preset option, which analyzes the image and applies a correction based on my camera model. The results were pretty good straight away. I added a bit more colour noise reduction and reduced the smoothing effect. The training information on how to use this tool is exceptionally clear.

The sliders were super sensitive. It did not take much to start seeing noise reduction. It was too easy to go overboard on the smoothing effects. I had to push the Color noise reduction sliders much higher than the luminance sliders.

3. Lightroom Classic

Lightroom Classic comes with the Creative Cloud plan, which starts at $9.99/month.

Lightroom Classic did an OK job with both images, and handled the night image challenge better than some of the other programs. If you are already an Adobe user, this program will likely handle most of your light noise reduction needs. But for a challenging image, there is better noise reduction software on the market.

 Noise reduction is located in the Detail panel in the Develop Module alongside Sharpening. By default, the Noise Reduction sliders, Luminance and Color, are set to zero.

When I pushed all noise reduction sliders to the maximum, there was a noticeable difference in the image. But I also saw some colour haloing around the bird’s wings. Most of the Chroma noise in the background disappeared, but so too did some of the detail in the bird’s feathers. In the night photograph, fainter stars disappeared leaving blank areas in the sky. Even at 100, colour noise remained in the darkest part of the image.

4. Photoshop

Photoshop comes with the Creative Cloud plan, which starts at $9.99/month.

I do a fair amount of photo processing in Photoshop, but have always used Lightroom Classic to reduce noise instead.

Photoshop came in last in my ranking. The built-in noise removal tools were sub-standard compared to the other programs.

Photoshop has a set of noise reduction filter tools. To find these, go to the Filter drop-down menu. Select Filter > Noise > Reduce Noise. Photoshop automatically reduces noise. You have the option to adjust the strength of the effect, preserve details, reduce colour noise, and sharpen details.

For my wildlife image, I chose maximum strength and to reduce colour noise by 100%. The results were alarming. Photoshop added an odd texture to my entire image. I tried again and again with various settings. In my opinion, Photoshop made the image worse. I tried it with my night shot with similar results. Photoshop seemed to add rather than reduce noise. I tried the other options under the Noise Filter. Median with a radius of 2 pixels seemed to work the best. But it still wasn’t that good.

If you use Photoshop for photo editing, it is worth investing in a plug-in.

Here’s how I ranked the plug-in noise reduction software.

1. Neat Image

Neat Image is available as a Photoshop plug-in or a standalone program for $39.00.

I ranked Neat Image as the best noise reduction plug-in for 2021. Not only is it effective, but much quicker and less expensive than the other plug-ins. The programs retained detail in the subject while pleasantly smoothing the blurred background. Neat Image gave me a lot of control over the noise-to-blur balance.

Once installed, the Neat Image plug-in shows up under the Filter drop-down menu. Once open, Neat Image builds a noise profile of the image. The program was quick and easy once I read the instructions. The initial results were good. From there, you can adjust the noise reduction amount, noise level, and sharpening.

Of all the programs, Neat Image was easily the quickest in rendering changes. I had instant control over various sharpening options and amount of noise reduction.

2. Topaz DeNoise AI

DeNoise AI is noise reduction software from Topaz Labs. The program is $79.99. There is a free trial available. This works as a standalone program or as a plug-in for Lightroom Classic and Photoshop.

DeNoise AI did a good job of retaining detail in the blurred background and removing chroma noise. But results were more mixed with my night image.

 When you open the tool, you will have three quick options: DeNoise AI, AI Clear, and Low Light. I chose AI Clear as the description, “removing noise from high-ISO images,” which seemed the best fit for my examples. The program lets you select if you want low, medium, or high noise removal (I chose “high”) and how much you want sharpness enhanced. You also have sliders that allow you to control how much detail the program recovers and how much colour noise reduction you want. DeNoise AI also includes a mask feature that lets you selectively reduce noise in parts of your image.

Even without enhancing detail, Topaz DeNoise AI is better than Lightroom Classic. It preserved detail and removed noise from the wildlife image. But it struggled with my night scene. I tried various settings, but I couldn’t get the program to make a dent in the noise.

3. Noiseware

Noiseware is a plug-in for Photoshop by Imagenomic. The software costs $79.99, and there is a free trial available.

In my opinion, Noiseware was similar to DeNoise AI. Both programs struggled with the night image. But Noiseware smoothed the feathers more, and so ranked lower.

Once installed, the Noiseware plug-in is the Filter drop-down menu. You can choose how much noise to remove, and also how much smoothing of details. Noiseware includes presets that adjust luminance, colour noise, detail protection, and detail enhancement. You can also adjust the presets, depending on the noise in your image.

I chose Full Noise Reduction. This preset did remove more noise, but also smoothed the feathers.

In both images, the results were like DeNoise. I liked the smoothness in the background blur. Noiseware seemed to keep good colour in my wildlife image. Knowing my night scene was problematic, I pushed the noise sliders to the max, but there was still too much noise.

4. Dfine

Dfine is noise reduction software included in the Nik Collection. This set of 8 plug-ins will cost you $149. You can only purchase Dfine as part of the collection. A free trial is also available. I have used an older version of the Nik Collection for years. I was interested in whether noise reduction had improved in the current version.

Dfine handled the blurred background well, but not the detail in the subject. Like the Photoshop other plug-ins, Dfine struggled with the night image. But the results were only slightly better than using Lightroom Classic without a plug-in. It doesn’t seem worth the effort to edit my image with this plug-in.

When you open an image in Dfine, it automatically corrects for contrast (luminance) and colour noise. You have the option of removing more noise, balancing noise removal with retention of detail. You also have the option to adjust noise in colours selectively. One feature across the Nik Collection is the use of Control Points. These are like the selective edits. Place a Control Point over a targeted area, and you can control the contrast and colour noise reduction for that area.

Dfine cleaned up a lot of the noise in the wildlife picture, but there was still some chroma noise. I liked the result in the blurred background better than Lightroom Classic, but the bird lost a lot of detail and looked waxy. Dfine struggled with the night scene. It removed all but the brightest stars and blurred the points of light.

The two images I used in this review challenged the noise reduction software in different ways. There are pros and cons to each program which I have outlined.

Comparison of noise reduction in complete post-processing programs

Comparison of noise reduction plug-ins

So, there are my picks! But you don’t have to take my word for the best noise reduction software. Try the programs for yourself. Most have free trials. Use the programs on dark photos or those with high ISO. Try the programs on scanned film images. I would love to hear about your results!

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A Match Made in Heaven: Lightroom and Photoshop – Free Quick Guide

Download Your Free Guide Now →

If you have been a member of one or more photography forums or social media pages, then you have probably seen this question posted at least once: “What should I start with first—Lightroom or Photoshop?”

The problem with such a question is that it assumes one should have either-or as if they are mutually exclusive.

In this guide, we’re going to look at a couple of reasons why you’d want to team up with both Lightroom and Photoshop.

We’ll also have a quick look at how you would do that.

Finally, we will witness them as the perfect team.

After reading this eBook, you should have a good understanding of when to call in Photoshop’s help while you’re editing images in Lightroom.

Perhaps not all of the reasons to do so, but certainly the most important ones.

Click below to get your copy.

Photo Credit: Tobie Schalkwyk

Download Your Free Guide Now → 

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#Photography Lessons

Photography for Beginners (The Ultimate Guide)

By Joshua Dunlop 

Cameras are complicated. I was frustrated with my first DSLR. I couldn’t capture what I saw through my viewfinder. It took a ton of trial and error to improve my photography.

When I managed to work it all out, I started taking some pretty spectacular images. This photography for beginners guide will share with you everything that I’ve learned from my mistakes.

 

How Do Cameras Work?

As beginner photographers, we tend to be visual learners. And it’s my job to make beginning photography as easy as possible for you.

So I thought to myself, “What better way to help beginner photographers learn how to use their cameras than by creating an infographic?” And that’s exactly what I did.

I collaborated with an illustrator friend of mine, and together we made these images. The following are something that will make understanding exposure, and how cameras work, a whole lot easier!  

Exposure

For those beginning photography, exposure is key to capturing a great image.

Learning how exposure works will help you to take control of your camera and take better photos. Shutter speed, aperture and ISO are the elements that combine to create an exposure.

As you’ll soon learn, these elements have an effect on more than the exposure. They also cause alterations in depth of field, motion blur, and digital noise.

Once you understand how each one works, you can start diving into manual mode. This is where you take control back from your camera.

The exposure triangle is a great way to remember the three settings. When combined, they control the amount of light captured from any given scene.

This will help you to understand that changing one setting will need a change in the others. That is if you are photographing the same scene with the same exact lighting conditions. 

Aperture

Exposure happens in three steps. We will start with the aperture. This is the hole inside the lens, through which the light passes.

It’s similar to the pupil of your eye. The wider the aperture, the more light is allowed in and vice versa. Simple? Not quite.

As the aperture widens, the f/number gets lower and more light is allowed into the camera. This is great for low light. But be aware that it’s going to make the depth of field very shallow. This is not ideal when taking landscapes photos.

So this is a short summary but I go into full detail about that in this post. The aperture is the preferred setting to set first, as it directly influences how much of your scene is in focus. But, if you are looking to create motion blur, then it is second to the shutter speed.

Exposure will be much easier if you can memorize the f/stop scale.

The scale is as follows: f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22. 

Shutter Speed

Once the light has passed through the aperture of the lens, it reaches the shutter. Now you need to decide how much of that light you’re going to allow into the camera.

Ordinarily, you only want a very small fraction of a second (for example 1/250) to prevent motion blur. However, different shutter speeds complement different situations.

Anything from really fast (1/4000) for sports photography to really slow (30 seconds) for night photography. It all depends on what you’re shooting and how much light you have available to you.

Knowing how your shutter speed works is a key element in the basics of photography.

ISO

Once the light has passed through the aperture and been filtered by the shutter speed, it reaches the sensor. This is where we decide how to set the ISO.

As you turn the ISO number up, you increase the brightness. But, at the same time, the image quality decreases. There will be more digital noise or “grain”.

So you have to decide upon your priorities in terms of exposure versus the grain.

For example, I would reduce the image quality if it meant that I could prevent motion blur in my photo. There’s no possible way to fix that in post-production (yet, at least).

Exposure Summary

Once you’ve understood aperture, shutter speed and ISO, you need to learn how each of these elements of exposure work together.

For all those basics of photography, exposure is the most important.

If you don’t have this down, composition and framing become a moot point in beginner photography.

In this post, you will learn about the ‘stop’ based system for measuring exposure. And you’ll also learn how to prioritize the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for the best photo.

Understanding Your Camera

Metering Modes

Digital photography for beginners can be confusing. Exposure isn’t as simple as learning about aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. You also have to learn about how your camera looks at light.

Metering modes are there to tell your camera how you want it to look at a scene.

The picture below was taken on spot metering mode. If you were to take the same photo using the evaluative mode, you would end up with a completely different exposure.

This is also covered in my free video training. If you’re looking for an article that explains digital, including Canon, metering modes, here it is.

Understanding this basic photography point might be the key to understanding why your photos are coming out underexposed or overexposed.

Histograms

The histogram shows you a mathematical review of exposure after the photo has been taken. It tells you how evenly exposed a photo is. New photographers often find it frightening to understand. But it is easy, and I tell you how.

LCD screens aren’t very good at showing you this information through their display of the image. This is because they are affected by the ambient lighting conditions you’re in and the brightness of the screen itself.

That’s why the histogram is such a powerful tool to utilize in beginning photography correctly.

Shooting Modes

Full-Auto, Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed Priority or Manual Mode. How do you work out which one you should be using?

There’s also a lot of misconceptions about which mode to use under which conditions.

When you understand what each mode does, the one that will be suitable for your situation becomes a lot clearer. This is also covered in my free video training.

Depth of Field

When you’re shooting in low light, you have to widen your aperture to allow enough light into the lens. But this has a major side effect. A shallow depth of field.

You can use this in a creative way. But it’s not the only possibility. There are many situations, such as landscapes, where you’ll want to use a narrower aperture. So that the whole scene remains in focus.

This tutorial walks you through everything you need to know about choosing the right aperture (and the DoF) for the right situation.

When it comes to covering all of the basics of photography, DoF is very important.

White Balance

White balance is something I wish I’d learned more about much sooner than I did. I look back on some photos now and wonder what I was thinking.

The white balance changes the colour cast of the entire photo. It is responsible for the overall warmth. It can determine whether your photo appears blue or orange, cold or warm.

Auto white balance doesn’t often do a good job. Especially with tungsten light. The sooner you learn about this basic photography idea, the more accurate your photos will look.

This is also covered in my free video training.

Focal Length

Have you ever wondered what the ‘mm’ on your lens means? Or why people use longer focal lengths for portraits?

It’s all discussed in this post. The focal length affects more than the ‘zoom’. It also influences the perspective.

I cover which focal length you would want to use in different situations. As well as their possible side effects.

It’s a really worthy read and one of my favourite tutorials to date.

Crop Factor

A lot of you may not realize but, unless you spend about $2000 on your camera, you’re shooting on a crop sensor.

This means that your sensor is much smaller than professional SLR cameras. It is cropping your image. The crop factor has a range of effects on your photos.

It creates a narrower viewing angle and will influence your lens purchases in the future. For those beginner photographers, research what lenses will help your field of photography first.

Polarizing Filters

Polarizing filters only allow light into the lens from a certain direction. This results in the removal of glare and reflections from non-metallic objects.

Water and glass are the most affected, as well as haze from the sky. Cutting out these reflections and anomalies will make for more natural saturated colours.

This looks fantastic and it cannot be replicated in post-production. That’s why it’s so important to understand.

How to Take Sharp Images Like a Pro

Photography beginners, I will walk you through the 10 step process of taking sharp photos like a professional.

It covers everything from choosing the right aperture and shutter speed to shooting in RAW.

It’s pretty easy to make only a few small mistakes which will result in less sharp images. That’s why we cover all ten in order of importance.

The Nifty Fifty

What can I say about the nifty fifty? What’s not to love?

For those of you who are beginner photographers, when I talk about the nifty fifty, I’m referring to the 50mm f/1.8 (or faster) prime lens. This can be picked up very cheap for most digital SLRs.

It’s a great introduction to buying better quality lenses. And an excellent way of getting to grips with aperture.

The article linked is a review and guide. I wrote it because I recommend this lens as the first upgrade for every beginner photographer to make.

It’s easy to use and, for the price, will yield some excellent results.

Composition

It’s important to understand exposure. But, if you can’t get to grips with basic composition, you’ll struggle to take really good photos.

I’m not saying that you have to follow every compositional rule. But it helps to learn these rules so they can help guide you in taking better photos.

Rule of Thirds

This is often the first compositional rule that any beginner photographer comes across. And that’s for an excellent reason: it’s simple, and it works.

The basic premise is that you divide your camera’s frame into thirds. By planting key objects on these lines, the composition of the image works better.

This is a tool that always works. But it is easy to overuse it. If you’ve not learned much about photography yet, it’s a great way of improving your photos.

It will help to make them more exciting.

Visual Weight

Visual weight differs in size or weight as we know it. It’s all about what we’re drawn to when we look at a photo.

When you understand visual weight, you’ll start to understand how people look at photos. And how you can position certain elements in a frame to direct the viewer’s attention to where you want them to look.

It’s not so much a tool or a rule, but an understanding.

Triangles

Shapes are essential in photography. Triangles are in almost everything we see in one way or another. It’s only a case of distinguishing and knowing what to do with them.

Triangles make great compositional tools. They’re easy to make and manipulate and are quite common. These are a great way to use the simplest and most basic photography compositions.

They are also perfect for combining different compositional techniques. These include lines and paths to create a more interesting part of a photograph.

You can even use them to make a photo feel more stable or unstable.

Eye-Lines

If you take photos of people, you’re taking photos with eye lines. It’s important to understand the effect that eye lines have on how we view a photo.

Eye-lines are the direction your subject’s eyes are pointed in. The negative space in front of the subject’s face is known as ‘lead room‘.

These have the ability to focus our attention on a particular part of the photo. They also produce tension and other photographic elements.

Although they’re not physical lines, they can be used as such to produce different elements. These will help make triangles and vertical lines.

Balance

Balance in a photo affects how we feel when we look at it. An unbalanced photo can make us feel uneasy. A balanced photo will make us feel more relaxed.

It doesn’t matter whether you choose to make the photo balanced or unbalanced. But you should understand why you’ve chosen one or the other.

Both affect your photos in different ways.

Again, it’s one of those situations where the more you know, the easier it will be to produce the desired effect.

So that’s a brief introduction to digital photography for beginners. 

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Three Mid-Range Cameras That Are Perfect for Beginner Photographers – Free Quick Guide

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You’re tired of the limitations of your smartphone camera. Perhaps, you’re thinking about buying a new dedicated camera body and lens.

Maybe you’re feeling a bit overwhelmed by all of the choices?

We asked photographer Tobie Schalkwyk to provide us with a recommendation for three entry-level cameras for that first big purchase.

Tobie went deep into his research and came up with some excellent recommendations.

He looked at many factors, including…

• Cost
• Lenses
• Menus
• Aesthetics

He also gives you the pros and cons of all three models that are discussed.

Even if you don’t want to invest in one of these particular cameras, the information will be valuable to reference when selecting the model you are interested in buying!

Click below for an excellent read.

Photo Credit: Tobie Schalkwyk

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# Photo, Images, & Drives

How (And When!) to Use Aperture Priority Mode

Tags: Shutterbug Photography, Rookie Photographer  

By Taya Ivanova 

Aperture priority mode can help you take eye-catching photos without controlling your settings all the time.

It can be a great time-saving tool for both photography beginners and professionals.

But what exactly is aperture priority mode and when should you use it?
 

 

What Is Aperture Priority Mode?

You can find aperture priority on your camera mode dial. It’s usually symbolised by the letters A or Av.

When you switch to this mode, you can control your aperture, ISO, and white balance. Your camera will change the shutter speed every time the light changes. You can’t manually adjust your shutter speed in this mode.

What Is Aperture?

Your aperture determines how blurred or detailed your backgrounds will look. A large aperture, such as f/1.4, will make your background look very soft. It’s also great for shooting in low light. A small aperture, such as f/22, will capture more details in your background.

Aperture is a great way to experiment with deep and shallow depth of field. It comes with many additional benefits that can make your photography stand out.

The Difference Between Aperture Priority Mode and Manual Mode

Many photographers use manual mode to have full control over their camera settings. It’s something you should familiarise yourself with as you learn more about photography. But it’s not a mode you need to use all the time.

Having full control over your settings can be time-consuming. You need to be aware of exposure compensation, ISO, shutter speed, and so on.

When you switch to aperture priority mode, you let the camera do most of the work for you. All you need to do is select an aperture. You can also manually change your ISO, but this isn’t necessary. Your camera will automatically decide what shutter speed is suitable for a given situation.

Avoid Automatic Mode for More Control

When you use the automatic mode, you let the camera do all of the work for you. No matter where you are, your camera will try to find the best settings for you to take beautiful pictures.

The downside of using automatic mode is that it doesn’t give you any control over your pictures. You can’t control how sharp or blurred your images are.

This is a great way to take decent photos in any lighting situation. But it’s not the best option for photographers who want to have at least some control over their settings.

Aperture is something that many photographers prioritise in their work. Some people want their backgrounds to have a specific amount of blur. Others want to capture as much detail as possible. Aperture priority mode is perfect for you if you fit into this category of photographers.

When Should You Use Aperture Priority Mode?

Using this mode all the time may not be a good idea. If you use it in the right situations, you can significantly improve your photography.

Here are a few instances in which you can make the most of it.

To Achieve a Fixed Depth of Field

A fixed aperture means a fixed depth of field. This means consistent photos, which can be very important in some photoshoots.

Let’s say you’re a portrait photographer who regularly uses an aperture of f/5.6. You want to take as many decent photos as possible on a cloudy day. The lighting is inconsistent, so you have to adjust your settings regularly. This can be a big obstacle.

Instead of doing that, you can switch to aperture priority mode, select your desired aperture, and take as many photos as you like. Your camera will make sure that your shutter speed and ISO are properly adjusted.

To Get Better at Changing Aperture as a Beginner

As a beginner, you might find manual mode overwhelming. Constantly switching to different shutter speeds, apertures, and ISO values can be stressful.

Aperture priority mode is an upgrade from automatic mode. It can help you get ready for manual mode and introduce you to different aperture settings at the same time.

When You Want to Experiment With Different Apertures

You might be a beginner photographer who wants to figure out how aperture works. You might also be a professional who wants to get better at adapting to different kinds of apertures.

You can achieve this quickly with aperture priority mode. Instead of worrying about shutter speed or ISO, you can quickly go through each aperture to find your favourite one. You’ll get decent photos as you do this, which is always a plus!

How to Use Aperture Priority Mode

1. Switch to Aperture Priority Mode

Different cameras have different buttons for aperture priority mode. Look for a symbol that represents this mode. It should say something like A or Av.

On the Canon 5D Mark II, you just need to turn the mode dial. Your camera should have a similar feature.

2. Choose Between Manual or Automatic ISO

This important step can save you a lot of editing time. If it’s not very bright outdoors, or if you’re shooting indoors, you might want to use a manual ISO.

ISO can help you compensate for a fast shutter speed or a small aperture. Too much ISO can make your pictures look grainy. It’s possible to remove grain in an editing program, but this can take some time if you have hundreds of images.

If you have some extra time on your hands, select an ISO manually. Automatic ISO is great for experimentation, but it might not be your best friend if you have a specific vision in mind.

3. Change the Value of Your Aperture

Aperture priority mode makes it very easy to change your aperture setting. On the Canon 5D Mark II, all you need to do is turn the little gear right above the ISO button.

You’ll notice that your camera will change the shutter speed as you change your aperture. It will also automatically change the shutter speed when the light changes.

4. Focus on Your Subject and Take a Few Test Photos

You don’t need to overthink this step. Just choose a subject and take a few test photos.

I started out with a relatively large aperture, but it wasn’t large enough for my desired style. To achieve a dreamier look, I changed my aperture to f/1.8.

There’s really no specific rule for this. The aperture you choose depends on your subject and your style.

5. Experiment With Different Apertures

Even if you like your results, experiment with different apertures. You might find an even better option. If not, at least you’ll figure out what aperture values you’d rather stay away from.

This is especially important for beginner photographers. The more apertures you experiment with, the more variety of pictures you’ll have in your portfolio.

Common Aperture Priority Mode Questions

Do Professional Photographers Use Aperture Priority?

Yes. Many professional portrait and landscape photographers use aperture priority. This is also a great mode for beginner photographers in any genre.

Which Is Better Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority?

Aperture priority keeps your aperture fixed and changes your shutter speed. This is great for those who want to have the same depth of field in their pictures. Shutter priority keeps your shutter speed fixed and changes everything else. This is ideal for action photography.

Using aperture priority mode can help you take better photos without stressing you out. All you need to do is adjust your aperture and ISO. Your camera will experiment with different shutter speeds for you.

This mode is perfect for beginners, portrait photographers, and landscape photographers. It’s ideal for you if you want to achieve a fixed depth of field without worrying about shutter speeds all the time.

 

#David Manning

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