Photographer Captures One In A Million Photo, Doesn’t Realize It Until He Gets Home

By​ Ilona

Sometimes in nature things happen that seem too good to be true, perfect coincidences that vividly illustrate the beauty and wonder of the world around us.

One such episode occurred over the Costa Brava, in Northeastern Spain, when a mass of starlings began to gather into a shape-shifting cloud, known as a murmuration. This phenomenon is a true spectacle, with hundreds, sometimes thousands or more birds moving and twisting in what appears to be a coordinated, single organism that can quickly morph into some startling shapes.

Photographer Daniel Biber from Hilzingen, Germany was there when the starlings began to swirl and twist, most likely the result of a predator such as a falcon or hawk being in the vicinity. It was almost supernatural that in response to the predator, the cloud of starlings ended up twisting and turning themselves into a giant, single bird, as if to say to their tormentor, “we are bigger than you.”

The photos have earned Mr. Biber a prize in an international photography competition, but he didn’t realise that he had captured such unique shots until later on. “Only when I checked the pictures on the computer later, I realised what formation the starlings had created,” he told the Daily Mail. “I was so concentrated on taking pictures at the time that I hadn’t realised that the starlings had created a giant bird in the sky.”

It was a case of patience pays off for Mr. Biber, who had tried and failed to capture the starlings in full flow before. “’I’ve tried to photograph the starlings but it never worked out as well as I hoped for,” he said. “’I eventually drove to the spot every day for four days in a row in order to capture them. I picked a spot where I thought they would turn up and picked a matching foreground and backdrop in order to put them in scene.”

Scroll down below to check out Mr. Biber’s incredible shots, and if you are a bit of an amateur twitcher yourself, you can add your own bird photos in the comments!

Sometimes in nature things happen that seem too good to be true

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

Photographer Daniel Biber from Hilzingen, Germany was trying to capture the murmuration of starlings for 4 days when he finally succeeded

Image credits: Daniel Biber/ SWNS

“I’ve tried to photograph the starlings but it never worked out as well as I hoped for”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“I eventually drove to the spot every day for four days in a row in order to capture them”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“I was so concentrated on taking pictures at the time that I hadn’t realised that the starlings had created a giant bird in the sky”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“It took less than 10 seconds for the birds to create that formation”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“I realised that I had captured a unique snapshot, technically, sharp and in high quality”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“It usually happens that birds of prey turn up and the starlings then create bizarre forms. It can be quite erratic and completely random”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

“A number of people were watching this display but they were observing it from other spots and might not have seen what I captured”

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

The incredible images ended up winning an international photography prize!

Image credits: Daniel Biber/lensculture

Simplifying your camera bag choices: How the pros use modular systems

Published by f-stop



If there is one truism in the world of camera equipment and accessories, it’s that photographers have choices. Once you finally dial-in your camera and lens setup, you still have to figure out how to transport all the equipment safely and comfortably, in a way that lets you access it when you’re ready to capture the shot.
There are so many camera bags on the market that doing an exhaustive comparison of every use-case and every solution out there is nearly impossible—that’s where f-stop comes in. The gear company makes adventure backpacks that combine outdoor-worthy technical innovation with modular camera carrying systems. What’s a modular carrying system, you say?

Credit: Robert Garo Photography
Most camera bags have fixed, padded compartments sewn in. You find a place to fit your camera body, a few lenses, and some accessories in the compartments. Sometimes it fits, sometimes it doesn’t. Instead, f-stop builds systems from the ground up, with a system they call ICUs (Internal Camera Units) that are sized and shaped to fit different camera setups. Each ICU can also fit into different size packs, so you can really customize your system based on what kind of adventure gear and camera gear you need.
Still confused? You should be. With so many possible combinations of packs, ICUs, and accessories, it’s not easy to figure out where to start. So we talked with some of f-stop’s ambassadors, the folks who test all the packs, to see which ones they use and why. Renowned photographers Krystle Wright and Lorenz Holder share some of their insights and gear selections to help you understand why modular systems reign supreme.

Credit: Robert Garo Photography
Lorenz said he prefers modular systems to traditional camera packs for their adaptability: “Every shoot is different for me, so I need to be able to easily utilize different sizes of ICUs. I also use Pelican hard cases sometimes and it’s great that the ICU can easily transfer from my f-stop pack to a Pelican case. The modular system makes it so simple to adapt to whatever the challenges of the shoot are.”
Of course, the primary benefit of all camera bags is durable protection. For years, Krystle has helped test and advise f-stop on developing new components: “f-stop has created a system that is exceptionally functional and compliments the way I want to work in the field. I’ve tested the bags in varying elements and they continue to hold up strong and don’t falter.”


Credit: Krystle Wright
A modular system makes sense for professional adventure photographers and people on-the-go, but we still need to select the appropriate combination of pack, ICU, and accessories to suit our individual needs. So which systems do the pros use? Again, it’s a personal choice for each photographer.
Lorenz uses Phase One cameras, and his shoots often require carrying lots of adventure gear as well as camera equipment. “My main camera pack is the Sukha with the XL Pro ICU because the Phase One camera and lenses are much larger than traditional DSLRs,” said Lorenz. “I use a Loka and Ajna to carry my flash systems. It looks pretty funny trying to carry three backpacks around, but sometimes that’s what the shoot needs!”

Credit: Robert Garo Photography
Krystle’s approach is slightly different, focusing more on simplicity and light weight: “My most-used backpack at the moment is my Kashmir bag, primarily because it’s the perfect size for airport carry-on without drawing too much attention to me. I still love my Tilopa bag because it’s a great size for shooting in the backcountry. But probably the most-used bag in my collection is the Urban Series Florentin shoulder bag as it’s guaranteed to be on my travels, carrying my hard drives and other travel essentials like my passport, wallet, bamboo eating utensils, and more.”


Credit: Krystle Wright
Both of these photographers have spent years refining the combinations of gear that work best for them. While there are differences in what every pro uses, there are common combinations within kits. f-stop gives you a shortcut to pro setups, with three different levels of Bundles. Each Bundle has a pack, at least one ICU, and essential accessories. As you go up another level, you get more options. TOP includes the top-selling ICUs and accessories, PRO includes ICUs and accessories most used by f-stop pros, and MASTER includes pretty much everything but the kitchen sink.
This approach also saves you a bit of dough. Think of it like buying a car: there are tons of options for sound system, seating, navigation, etc. If you buy them à la carte, you pay full price and it adds up. If you buy one of the packages from your car dealer, you save a little money and get a curated mix of options. Same goes with f-stop Bundles. You buy any of their packs with a Bundle, and you save around 10% versus buying all the components separately—but even better than the savings is knowing that your set-up has been built on the experience of hundreds of pros using it every day. Done: a camera carry solution that’s both complete and modular.

http://www.photography-jobs.net/?hop=darryl54 

Interview: Dog Photographer Offers Pro Tips for Capturing Stunning Portraits of Your Pooch

By Sara Barnes

You don’t have to be a pet owner to know that photographing dogs can be tricky. It takes time, patience, and skill to snap artful images of canines. Those who are able to capture such images undoubtedly have a gift—with both photography and animals. Anne Geier is one of these incredible individuals taking gorgeous pictures of dogs—both alone and in groups—that highlight their heart and humanity. Their expressive faces, which will make even the most lukewarm dog lovers melt, are made even more enchanting by being set amidst gorgeous natural backdrops.

Geier began photographing canines nearly a decade ago and has refined her techniques to make great shots an inevitability—not just a fluke. It starts with her fundamental viewpoint of pet portrait photography. “You have to show their soulful nature on the photos,” she tells My Modern Met. “The photos should say something about the dog.” In Geier’s work, this is achieved with an intoxicating combination of visuals; through lighting and color, she showcases the innate beauty of the creature, highlighting everything from the patterns in their fur to the piercing color of their eyes. Additionally, she places them in sun-soaked settings that any human would find idyllic. Together, they communicate a faithful companion that will be by your side on your adventures—but also the times you want to snooze in a hammock next to a grand lake.
We spoke to Geier about her work, including some of her favorite dog photography tips. Read our exclusive interview, below.
How did you get into photographing dogs?
The reason why I started to take photos of dogs was my first dog, Cindy. First of all, I just wanted to take photos of Cindy to create memories for eternity but then I developed a passion. The combination of art and dogs is truly fascinating.
You have a penchant for capturing the soulful nature of pups. How do you capture this kind of emotion in your subjects?
Capturing the soulful nature of pups means that you have to get oneself into a dog. Dogs are unpredictable! So you have to be quick enough to capture the spirit of the moment and, at the same time, you have to be patient to wait until this moment arises. You have to shoot at the eye level of the dog or lower– so you will achieve a special perspective from the dog’s point of view. Nowadays most dogs are well trained, which makes it much easier to create nice portraits of them. The most important thing is to show the trademark spirit of the dog.
What are your favorite tips for photographing great portraits of dogs? What do you think all first-time photographers should know?
First of all, try to make the dog model be your friend, because you have to create living photos with a happy and not bored, scared, or tired dog. You have to motivate the dog with treats or its favorite toy. Try to make funny noises to win the dog’s attention. A perfect shot of a dog is much more than only a perfect composition, lighting, and location. You have to show their soulful nature in the photos. The photos should say something about the dog.
Be patient and let the dog explore the location, so you create a relaxed atmosphere, which is very important to get a nice portrait.
Use a big aperture that the first glance is immediately directed to the dog.
Take care that you get a glance into the dog’s eyes. Without a glance, the eyes do often look inanimate.
What gear do you use in your photography? What is your post-production like?
I work with a Nikon D850 and D750 and a large arsenal of different lenses. But my favorite lenses are the 85 1.4 and the 35 1.8. I love the 85mm because you can create an amazing blurry background and use many different perspectives. The big advantage of the 35 1.8 is that you can show the dog in a big part of the environment in a very attractive angle.
My latest gear is an underwater housing. Still, it is a little bit challenging for me but I am working hard to get better.
My pictures live from certain lighting moods, from a slightly dreamy look and breathtaking landscapes. I try to capture the characters of the dogs as good as possible and make the pictures emotionally captivating. I pay attention to get the best out of the photo while taking it. So when I am shooting, I try to create a natural frame and a certain depth through the natural conditions. With editing the photos only a little bit, the final finishing is done. Many of my participants in the workshops and coaching sessions are often very surprised how little is changed within the picture editing.
You’ve photographed gorgeous portraits of pups in so many ways. How do you keep things fresh?
The most powerful source to keep the photos breathtaking is inside each dog and the beauty of nature. Especially the spirit of my own dogs, Cindy, Finn, and Yuri, was and is a lot of inspiration for me. The soulfulness of dogs will always amaze me and uphold my creativity in taking new pictures.

A Beginners Guide to Baby Photography, 10 Baby Portrait tips.

One of the things I have loved about blogging is the opportunity to explore a new found hobby in photography. Unlike our other author Deborah, I don’t classify myself as a professional photographer….yet. But I sure have had a lot of fun over the last few years learning more about taking portraits. So much so that after our little Rose was born I found myself excited to take her baby portraits! They turned out so great that friends were asking me how to do it, so they could take their own kid’s pictures. So I figured I could easily share my tips, a beginners guide to baby photography if you will.

Baby Photography made easy

There are 10 tips that will make baby photography easy and fun. If you follow these 10 baby portraits tips, you should be able to achieve some great shots of your own little ones! And it’s such a great feeling to see the final product. I’ve never had baby portraits of my little ones before little Rose. So this has been such a fun experience for me. And I am really treasuring these photos.

The trick to those amazing newborn portraits is that you can take these photos of baby up to 4 weeks old. Much older than that and baby is too wiggly and alert for the cozy sleepy photos. You can still get some great shots, but like I said, they won’t have that adorable sleepy photo look.

With Miss Rose, we barely made it. She was 4 weeks old when I was feeling well enough to get her photos done. As you will see from our photos, even then she was rather alert.

But here are the top 10 tips to great baby portraits.

1. The Photography Gear – For great baby photography your gear matters. Don’t get me wrong, you will still be able to get some fun shots with a regular camera, But if you want photos that could come close to rival the professional, you need quality gear. I have 2 great DSLR cameras. My starter DSLR was a Canon T3i. And I absolutely loved this camera. It was perfect for starting out learning how to use a DSLR. I still am known for pulling out the T3i now and then for a quick shot since it is slightly lighter. And it has the flip out viewfinder screen that makes taking some types of photos a lot easier, AKA my self portrait fashion shoots.

But I have since upgraded to a Canon 6D. This is truly the star of the show. I much prefer shooting with this camera because I can get richer colors, crisper images, and it is a full frame camera. I much prefer to shoot in full frame versus cropped sensor. I feel like I can get more up close and personal with the subject with a full frame camera.
Now the type of camera is only half the story. The Lens that you use is just as important if not slightly more important when taking photos. For single portraits or single/small subjects to capture I prefer using my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
For a larger subject group like if I am taking photos of multiple people (more than 3) or I need to include a larger area of subject into the photo then I shoot with a Canon EF 50mm f 1.4 lens. It produces amazing clarity and lets me include a larger area in the frame. If you can’t bare the price of the the f1.4 model the Canon EF 50mm f1.8 lens is still a very good alternative.

Since you’ll likely be shooting indoors, sometimes you can have shadow on your photos. I’m not a big fan of artificial lighting, but sometimes you just need some help to balance out the light coming in through your windows. Or maybe you don’t have a lot of natural light at all. That is OK. There are two pieces of gear that can really help out with this.
First the Canon Speedlite 430EX II Flash has been my best friend lately. I get a lot of shadows in our house. Or the color of the walls cast odd lighting onto the subject that I’m shooting. So this lets me use a flash to get more lighting. But you don’t want to point it directly at your subject. I aim it to bounce the light off of a reflector or the ceiling to help eliminate the shadows. 
Next, I also use a reflector for baby photography. I use the LimoStudio 43″ 5 in one photography Disc. It has 5 different reflector options in one. And it folds down for small storage. It has been so great at reflecting light and filtering out sunlight that is too harsh, that I am planning on getting another one so I can use 2 at multiple angles for even better lighting. 
2 Warm Shooting Location– Babies don’t like it cold. No one likes it cold really. But babies are extra sensitive. And if you want the beautiful sleeping shots, you need to have a warm location. This means if it is cooler, then turn on the heat. Or use little portable heaters to simply warm the room where you are shooting to a cozy temperature.
 

  3 Set up the scene. – Before baby even arrives, or you get your own baby ready , you want to set up the scene where you will be shooting the photos. Use natural light as much as possible. This means you will want to set up near windows when at all possible. Use the reflectors I mentioned earlier, this will bounce the natural light back onto the area where baby will be.

Also for the backdrop you want great colors. Since we aren’t going to big expensive photographer setting, then simple things can really set up the scene. Use blankets with great colors and textures. This is where baby will lay. Great ideas include sheepskin rug, minky blanket, or a hand crocheted blanket.
I used a gorgeous blanket that my cousin crocheted for Rose made from Bernat blanket yarn. This yarn is super thick, and gives a plush feel. It is super soft and cozy and warm. And it gives a gorgeous texture for photos.

I also used a nice white ruffled blanket I bought from Etsy.

Also you will need something to prop up baby. This is where a boppy pillow is your best friend yet again! I used a boppy pillow to prop up Miss Rose for her 4 week photos. Simply place it under the blanket and you can set up baby to the position you want to shoot.

Also you can use a beanbag chair, or my favorite a fuf chair. A Fuf chair is like a beanbag chair, but the filling is different so it holds it’s shape better than a beanbag chair. And personally I think they are far more comfortable. I love our small fuf chair! I just move it right in front of the window and then I can mold it to prop up baby just right for her photos.

4 Test shoot -Once you have the scene set up you always want to take a few test shots. This is to ensure you have the proper settings before adding baby. Make sure your ISO and aperature are set right for good exposure. Check your white balance. Also check the K setting to see if your warm/cool setting needs to be adjusted. Depending on how much light is reflecting off of our colored walls, sometimes I have to change these settings on my camera to make sure the WHITE in the photo stays white and doesn’t turn yellow or blue after a photo is captured. This will save you a lot of time in photo editing later if you get your white balance and K settings set up properly before you even begin shooting.

5. Feed baby right before beginning – A full baby is a happy baby. Make sure baby gets fed right before you begin. You don’t want a hungry baby while you are shooting or they won’t sleep or position well. Don’t forget to burp. A gassy baby is a wiggly and grumpy baby.

6. Loose clothing, – Be sure to dress baby in loose clothing. If you are going for the traditional newborn photos where baby is not wearing clothes, make sure the clothing is loose so that it is easy to remove without disturbing baby after they fall asleep. Make sure to loosen the diaper so it’s easy to remove after baby is drowsy. But always make sure to remove the diaper last. And only when you are immediately ready to begin shooting. The last thing you want is to have an accident and have to clean up any potty mess before you begin shooting.
If you aren’t going for the traditional newborn look, simply make sure the clothing baby is wearing is comfortable and easy to adjust for photos.

7. Swaddle– most babies love to be swaddled. It comforts them. And also keeps them warm. I swaddled Rose in nothing but her loose diaper while I fed her. Then she was full and mellow. I positioned her then quickly but gently removed the swaddle and diaper and started shooting.

8. Binky for happy baby – if baby gets worn out or starts to fuss, a Binky can be a life saver! Give them the binky while you position the baby. Let it soothe the baby. Get set to take the shot then quickly remove binky and snap the shot. You will be able to capture the photo before baby realizes the binky is gone and starts fussing again.

Yes, I used this trick frequently when I take baby portraits of Miss Rose. And don’t worry about baby being hooked on her binky. We have a great collection of ways you can say bye bye binky when baby is older and you want to get rid of the binky habit the easy way.

9- Props– many people love the props. And yes they are adorable. Just don’t overwhelm the scene with them- the baby should be the star.
You can find amazing baby photography props on Amazon and Etsy. For boys, handmade crochet items are a hit. Or a simple tie and diaper cover. Girls you can always find amazing headbands that are just adorable for these baby portraits. You can also get adorable crochet booties for babies as well.

If you find that the headgear is too big for baby a simple tip is to fold the headband to fit and then secure with a small bobby pin in the back. I had to do this with Miss Rose because even though I ordered a newborn sized headband, her head is still too small. So this helps get the headband to sit right for the pictures.

Also you don’t have to buy a lot of items for a baby portrait session. Use what you have on hand. Make sure you have an outfit for the baby if you are going to use one, have the blanket for under the baby, then just use what is on hand. Like this shot. I used Miss Jade’s petticoat to get the white texture. I simply positioned a few ruffles on top of Rose’s feet and this is the result.

10. Stay calm – Babies don’t like to be stressed. If you’re talking and laughing loudly, they’ll be easily upset. Consider a sound machine to see if that will soothe baby. Along with that, be efficient, but don’t rush.
Take your time with each shot and that will help everyone be calm. Follow your photo position plan. Allow yourself time to position baby gently and calmly. Make sure you aren’t rushed to have another appointment, or need to pick up kids at the bus stop. Or that you don’t have a family waiting on dinner. Make sure you have plenty of time for the photography session so you can take your time.
But be deliberate in each photo. Plan ahead what type of photos you want to take before the session even begins. So you can be deliberate in each moment. Search Pinterest for great newborn portraits for ideas of how you want to position baby. Have a list of ideas. If baby is not cooperating for a position, let it go. Move onto the next position you have planned.

Now you have everything you need to know to go out and be a beginner in baby photography! The last thing you need is simply practice! You may be discouraged after your first try. That is OK. No one is perfect the first time. Don’t let that stop you. You can only get better with practice. As you do it more you will begin to develop an eye for capturing the shots. You will learn your own style  and can be even more efficient the next time.

Amber

Owner/Influencer at Busy Creating Memories

Besides my quirky obsession with BBC classics, Sci-Fy, Dystopian novels, Fantasy, DR Pepper, Chocolate, and Popcorn; I also have a passion for photography, baking and creating recipes, crafts & crochet, tabletop board games, and camping. My Husband and I have 4 children, 2 girls ages 2 and 8 years. And 2 boys ages 12 and 14.I am the owner & editor of Busy Creating Memories located just north of the greater Salt Lake City, Utah area.

http://www.photography-jobs.net/?hop=darryl54 

Photographer Shoots Finnish Forest Animals Like They’re Professional Models, And We Can’t Stop Looking At Them

Animals, Photography

By​ Greta J.

Helsinki-based artist Joachim Munter invites you to step into the fairytale-like wildlife of Finland through his photos. Viewing his portraits of local forest animals, you instantly feel an intimate connection with the subjects, having to pinch yourself to check if you aren't dreaming.

Munter's work becomes even more astonishing after you realize how short his relationship with the camera is. "I started photographing about 10 months ago," he told Bored Panda. "I was more interested in landscape photography but I slowly started to become more interested in wildlife. I found it more challenging and rewarding."

Upon first glance, these animals look like they were trained. From a curious fox to a hungry squirrel, Munter builds such a strong bond with the creatures, they look perfectly comfortable while in front of his lens. "Wildlife photography is all about gaining the trust of the animals," Munter said. "The most important thing - in my opinion - is not to chase the animals. You just need time and patience; let the animal become comfortable around you."

He usually works around Helsinki. "My sessions vary from just a few hours to a whole day," Munter explained. "That's what I like about wildlife photography; it's so unpredictable, you can never be sure what's going to happen and what animals you'll meet. Sometimes it can go weeks without a good session and sometimes you can get many good shots in just a few hours."

More info: Instagram (h/t sobadsogood, dyt)

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The Best Free Online Photography Courses and Tutorials

Gautam Tambay

Given my interest in lifelong learning and skill-development, I often ask people which new skills they’re looking to learn. The most common response? “I want to be a better photographer”.
And for good reason! Few things evoke the instant emotional response a great photo does. It’s what made Instagram worth a billion dollars to Facebook.
For those of you who, like me, are looking to kick their photography skills up a notch, I’m curating a list of the best free online courses and resources I’ve found. So whether you’re a budding photojournalist looking toward a career behind the lens, or just a hobbyist looking to take better shots on your next trip, I’m hoping you’ll find something useful here!
I realize that this is by no means an exhaustive list, rather it’s a work in progress. If you know of other awesome free resources, share them in the comments and I’ll add the best ones to the list.
P.S. Huge thanks to the amazing /r/photography community on Reddit for helping compile this list.

Photography for Beginners

1. Introduction to Photography and Related Media: Video lectures from a semester-long undergraduate-level course at MIT. Covers the fundamentals of analog and digital SLR, film exposure and development, darkroom techniques, digital imaging, and studio lighting.
Level: Beginner | Duration: Self-paced | Always Available
2. Basics of Photography: The Complete Guide: A comprehensive resource for beginning photographers, compiled by the friendly folks at Lifehacker. Starts by explaining how a digital camera works and goes on to explain image composition, technique, and editing. Mostly in text format, interspersed with a few explanatory videos.
Level: Beginner | Duration: Self-paced | Always Available
3. Free Beginner Nikon Digital SLR Photography: This highly-rated course teaches you how to use all the buttons and dials on your camera (e.g. exposure, aperture, shutter speed and the mode dial) by doing rather than memorizing.
Update: This course has since been changed to a $11+ paid course.
Level: Beginner | Duration: 2.5 hours | Always Available
4. Photography: Ditch Auto – Start Shooting in Manual: As the name suggests, a course for amateur photographers who have been using their DSLR or fancy Point-and-shoot camera in “auto” mode, but want to learn to unlock to it’s full potential.
Level: Beginner | Duration: 4.5 hours | Always Available
5. Karl Taylor’s FREE Photography Course: Among the most popular courses on Udemy (almost 50,000 students enrolled, hundreds of rave reviews). Instructor Karl teaches using a mix of videos and PDF fact sheets. In his words, all you need is “a camera and some enthusiasm”.
Level: Beginner | Duration: 2.5 hours | Always Available
6. A Complete Introduction to Photography (aka Reddit Photoclass): Reddit never ceases to amaze me! Alexandre Buisse taught this 30-part class to 7,000 Redditors a few years ago. Now archived on his website, this gem covers everything from gear to post processing. Great for those who prefer reading to watching videos.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Duration: Self-paced | Always Available
7. Strobist: Perhaps the most popular resource for beginners to learn how to use light and their flashes, especially their Lighting 101 course that many photographers swear by.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Duration: Self-paced | Always Available
8. Cambridge in Colour: A great site for beginners to browse tutorials and have their questions answered by a community of learners. And no, that extra “u” in “Colour” is not a typo — this is Cambridge, UK we’re talking about!
Level: Beginner | Duration: Self-paced | Always Available

Post-production and Specific Techniques

9. Using a Photographic Light Meter: A course for photographers who have just started using a hand-held light meter to determine exposure.
Level: Beginner | Duration: 2 hours | Always Available
10. Pixels After Dark: Shooting the Night: An outstanding talk by three-time Olympic photographer Jeff Cable on shooting images at night.
Level: Intermediate | Duration: 1.5 hours | Always Available
11. Getting Started with Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5: A detailed series of video-lectures from Adobe on how to effectively use their Lightroom software to do everything from importing images to adding special effects and printing. The Adobe TV website has plenty of more great “how-to” resources for photographers.
Level: Beginner | Duration: 3.5 hours | Always Available
12. Photoshop & Lightroom for Photographers: You’ve learned to use your camera and compose great pictures. Now make them look better! This highly-rated course teaches the two most popular software tools used by photographers to process and touch up images.
Level: Intermediate | Duration: 6.5 hours | Always Available
13. Create a Gorgeous Photography Site with SmugMug in 90 mins: Now that you have some great-looking pictures, use this course to set up a website to showcase them!
Level: Beginner | Duration: 1.5 hours | Always Available
14. Computational Photography: This Georgia Tech course talks about how computation affects various aspects of photography — from photo-editing to sharing. Knowledge of college-level mathematics, general physics and basic computer programming are recommended for this course.

http://www.photography-jobs.net/?hop=darryl54