3 Ways to Simplify and Learn Photography Faster
#ShutterSpeed#Aperture#ISO

24-120mm, shot at 120mm, 1/160, f/4, ISO 1400. Knowing how the lens behaves at both
ends of the zoom, I knew I could use this lens for wide angle shots in close, but zoom in
as the flower girl was coming down the aisle and still get an interesting shot.
ends of the zoom, I knew I could use this lens for wide angle shots in close, but zoom in
as the flower girl was coming down the aisle and still get an interesting shot.
So here are three ways to keep it simple while you’re learning photography, and stop the overwhelm.
#1 – Focus on one subject at a time
I’m a strong advocate for keeping things simple. First off, if you’re planning to photograph landscapes, wildlife, or portraits, stick with that one goal. It is easy to get distracted by other subjects that come along. Those opportunities can seem like gold when they pop up, and they can be, but if you’re already set up to shoot a landscape photo at ISO 100, f/16 aperture, and 1/20th shutter speed, quickly switching to settings suitable for capturing a bird in flight is not an easy process. It will likely end in you being frustrated, capturing photos that don’t quite meet your expectations, or worse, don’t come out at all.Even now, 20-plus years after beginning my photography career, I try not to do too much at once with a camera. I focus on what my goal was when I first decided to pick up the camera and head out. If I’m planning on photographing a landscape at sunset, that’s what I do. The only time I will try to be ready for two separate subjects, is when I have two cameras. For instance, if I’m photographing a landscape, but there are waterfowl nearby and I want to be ready for that, I have a second camera set up with a telephoto lens, so I can grab it and try and get the shot. Even this requires me to at least temporarily put my initial subject, the landscape, aside for a bit.

This shot of the blue heron was taken with a 400mm lens, using continuous AF, and 1/1250
shutter speed. The image of the waterfall (below), and the image of the great blue heron(above), were both taken at the same location. However, for the shot of the waterfall, I
needed to use a neutral density filter to slow down the exposure. There is no way I’d have
been able to remove the filter, and be ready to photograph the heron, even if both shots
could have been captured with the same lens. Not only would my shutter speed have
needed to be drastically faster to stop the flight of the heron, I would also have needed
to use continuous AF to capture its flight sharply, while I always use one-shot AF when
photographing landscapes.

This shot was taken with a 16mm lens, using one-shot AF, and a 0.6 second shutter speed.
#2 – Use only one lens
Back when I took my first photo course in college, my professor was adamant that each student use only a 50mm lens. I didn’t understand why at the time, but I do now. It’s important to understand how your lenses behave, so you’ll know which one is right for the job. As photographers, many of us become gear collectors, always wanting another lens, to allow us to photograph the way we saw another photographer do it. But before you start collecting lenses, it’s important to recognize what each lens can do for you, and to truly understand that, you’ve got to use each lens extensively.
Using a wide angle lens, I was able to emphasize the ice in the foreground, while pushing the
bridge to the background at the top center of the frame.
bridge to the background at the top center of the frame.
When you pull your camera out of the bag next time and select lens to use, stick with that one lens. Really get to know it. If it’s a zoom, shoot at only one end of it. The next time you use it, use the other end. Learn how to make that lens really sing. Find out what it’s really good for, and what it’s not good at. Do this with every lens you own, if you own more than one. When it comes time to purchase new glass, you’ll have a much better understanding of where your kit comes up short, and what you need to buy. In addition, you’ll also be building on my first point, focusing on one subject. Too often, new photographers miss opportunities because they are busy changing lenses because they think they need one over another. If changing lenses is not an option, you won’t waste time with it, and can focus on making great photos with whichever lens you find on your camera.

Telephoto lenses compress perspective. Want to make the sun or moon look really big in
relation to a building or structure? Back away from your subject a bit and use a telephoto
lens to compress the perspective and distort the size relationship.
relation to a building or structure? Back away from your subject a bit and use a telephoto
lens to compress the perspective and distort the size relationship.
Telephoto lenses compress perspective, while wide angle lenses enhance it, and each perspective communicates something different to the viewer. There are reasons to use both wide and telephoto lenses, but only working with them extensively will help you recognize the situations where each is most effective.
#3 – Don’t accessorize

Shot at 16mm, f/16, 15 seconds, ISO 64. I simplified my composition down to two elements,
the reflection in the foreground, and the lighthouse in the background. Knowing the lighthouse
would be there regardless of where I stood or how I zoomed, I focused on getting the
reflection right, and letting the rest of the composition fall into place. One of the great things
about digitalphotography, and today’s technology, is the many cool new tools available to help
with yourpicture-taking endeavors. It’s great to be able to connect to a camera from your
smartphone,and do things such as time lapse or long exposures, but often times, these
accessories are one more thing that can go wrong, or distract you from actually taking photos.
reflection right, and letting the rest of the composition fall into place. One of the great things
about digitalphotography, and today’s technology, is the many cool new tools available to help
with yourpicture-taking endeavors. It’s great to be able to connect to a camera from your
smartphone,and do things such as time lapse or long exposures, but often times, these
accessories are one more thing that can go wrong, or distract you from actually taking photos.

Even for images such as these, the only accessory I used was a time controller, with only the
shutter button locked down.It’s important, when learning photography, to focus on the
basics – aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, and understand how they affect your images.
It’s too easy to get caught up in all the bells and whistles and how cool they are, and forget
that the end result is what matters. In my mind, if the accessory isn’t contributing in a way
that affects the final image, then I don’t need to use it. I’m not saying that accessories are
bad, or even unnecessary, but if you aren’t sure how to achieve a proper exposure yet, put
off purchasing that shiny new toy, and really learn your camera.
basics – aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, and understand how they affect your images.
It’s too easy to get caught up in all the bells and whistles and how cool they are, and forget
that the end result is what matters. In my mind, if the accessory isn’t contributing in a way
that affects the final image, then I don’t need to use it. I’m not saying that accessories are
bad, or even unnecessary, but if you aren’t sure how to achieve a proper exposure yet, put
off purchasing that shiny new toy, and really learn your camera.
I find that simplifying the process as much as possible helps me come away with the best
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