Favorite Film Developer: Pyrocat HDC
People have used pyro-based developers since the 1800's, not only because they make good negatives, but also because the pyro stain results in negatives that are perfectly suited for printing with UV-sensitive materials: Platinum/Palladium, Carbon Transfer, Kallitypes - as well as materials that are sensitive to the visible spectrum, like silver paper and... scanners !
Although Pyrocat HD is sold as a commercial product, the inventor (Sandy King) has given the formula to the public domain, so you can mix it yourself if you like. There are several variations on the formula, and I like the one which uses Vitamin C, because it's readily available, cheap and... good for you!
Here's a tip if your negatives have a bit of pink stain in spite of adequate fixing: rinse them briefly in water after fixing, then soak them in a 10% solution of Sodium Sulfite for around 10 minutes (1 teaspoon per liter). Then wash normally. Sodium Sulfite is the active ingredient in Hypo Clearing agent: if you use an acid fixer, you need that anyway (see below). If you use an alkaline fixer, a washing aid is not required, but a little Sodium Sulfite will reduce the overall image stain just enough to clear the film edge.
You can read all about it on Pyrocat HD web site.
Very Simple Film Developer: D-23
It's very similar to D-76, but contains no Hydroquinone. As a result, it works a bit more slowly, with less danger of "runaway" high values.
Ansel Adam's classic image "Winter Sunrise from Lone Pine, 1944" was developed in D-23. Click here to read more about D-23 and his lovely photograph.
by: Kenneth Lee
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