Monday, June 5, 2023

#Photography Basics, Photography Tutorial 

How to Easily Understand Your Camera Autofocus Modes


Exploring the Benefits of Using Autofocus Modes Over Manual Mode

Focusing is choosing the part of your photo that will be sharp and well defined. Our brains usually prefer sharp images over blurry. A well defined subject draws attention, and is the most important part of the composition.
Mastering autofocus system will allow you to better convey the message of your image. It will also save you from deleting lots of blurry photos!

A blurry photo of a purple flower  


A sharp photo of a purple flower shot using correct focus - autofocus mode
If you compare this photo with the one above you clearly see the importance of using correct 
focus, which photo do you like looking at better?

Focusing manually gives you more control but it is an acquired skill. There’s a steep learning curve. Basically you focus by turning the ring on your lens (in DSLR cameras) until you see in focus the part of the photo.
It gives you more freedom for artistic effects, or to take photos in difficult situations, like low light conditions. But struggling with manual focus at the beginning can cause you to miss key moments.
This is where autofocus comes in.
A person pointing to autofocus mode on a Nikon DSLR
Autofocus is a practical option that will allow you to focus much faster. You will be able to pay attention to other things like composition and exposure.
You can switch between manual and autofocus either through the lens or through the camera itself. Depending on your camera model, you’ll have a dedicated button or can access this through the menu.
A close up of autofocus mode on a Nikon DSLR 



What Is AF All About?

When you set the focus, you arrange the glass parts in your lens so that specific light beams meet on the sensor. Beams that reach the lens from different distances require different arrangements.
In other words, focus is a matter of distance of the objects from the lens. In autofocus mode you select pre-determined “focus points”. The number of these points depends on your camera you have.
You can see them through the viewfinder. Your camera will focus on the area that is in front of the focus point you selected. 


Camera Focus point display
Focus point display. Photo credit: Nikon (https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/basics/16/02.htm)

How to Select the Best Focus Area for Your Subject

Digital these days have very advanced autofocus modes. They offer more options than just selecting one focus point.
A 4 photo grid showing how to change autofocus modes on a DSLR 


  • Single-Point AF-Area Mode (Manual AF-Point in Canon). The camera will only use the focus point you’ve selected.
  • Dynamic AF-Area Mode (AF Point Expansion in Canon). You also select one focus point. But in this mode, if your subject moves a little, the camera will use the surrounding focus points to focus. You need to track the subject with your camera. This way, you can make sure that it remains close to the first selected focus point. If not, your camera won’t be able to refocus.
  • 3D Tracking. You select the first focus point and your camera, using an algorithm, tracks your subject while moving. There’s a risk that your camera will ‘jump’ to another subject and ‘decides’ to focus on it instead.
  • Auto- area AF. This mode is completely automatic. The camera decides for you what focus points are going to be used. It chooses the subject in the photo according to contrast differences. I do not use this mode often. I like to keep some control over what to focus on.

Use Single-Servo AF (Nikon, AF-S) or One-Shot AF (Canon) for Static Subjects

Most cameras have different autofocus modes to help you focus in different situations. You can select one either through the camera settings menu or with a button dedicated to it.
The most common autofocus modes options are : AF-S (single point), AF-C (Continuous) or AF-A (automatic).
The basic option is the AF-S. With it selected, you focus using one focus point. The camera will allow you to choose the focus point (probably using some arrow buttons or a dial).
This autofocus mode has the advantage that it allows you to block the focus when you half-press the shutter release. This is handy when you want to reframe the image without losing the focus point.
AF-S mode is useful when the subject of your photo is not moving (landscape, still photography) or it moves just a little (static portraits).
A female model posing on the beach shot using af mode 


Use Continuous Servo AF (Nikon, AF-C) or AI Servo (Canon) With Moving Objects

Another camera focus option is Continous (AF-C). This is especially useful when the subject of your photo moves around. Think sport events, vehicles, animals, or kids.
The camera does not lock the focus point when you half-press the shutter release. Instead, it tracks your subject and refocuses accordingly.
Remember that when you select this autofocus option, you can’t lock the focus. This means that you can’t reframe. 

A girl in sports clothes jumping energetically on the beach shot using af mode

What About Autofocus Automatic (Nikon, AF-A) or AI Focus AF (Canon)?

There is a third option: the Autofocus Automatic. Your camera will select Single or Continuous AF if it detects the subject as stationary or moving respectively.
This might seem like a great option, but it leads to confusion. The camera switches between the two AF modes.
This makes it hard to know if half-pressing the shutter release will lock the focus or track the subject. 

How to Combine Autofocus Modes With Focus Areas for Better Photos

Now it is time to put the Autofocus mode and autofocus area together.

Single Point Area + AF-S Mode

Perfect for stationary subjects such as landscapes and still photography. I also use it in portraits where the model is not moving fast.
You choose one focus point and the camera won’t refocus.

A colorful city street view - understand autofocus mode
Single Point Area+ AF-C Mode

Ideal for when your subject is moving, like animals, kids, sports, etc. Also handy in nature photography for windy days.
You select one focus point and your camera will refocus if needed if the subject moves.
It will refocus only on the selected focus point, so you need to track the subject.
A close up of plants outdoors - what is autofocus mode 

Dynamic Area + AF-C Mode

Useful when the subject is moving in an unpredictable way. Select one focus point and the camera will use also the surrounding ones if the subject moves.
You might be wondering why you should not use this all the time. Since the camera can track the movement and refocus accordingly (selecting Continuous mode and a 3D Tracking/Dynamic area).
Why bother switching to one single focus point?
If your subject is not isolated in the frame, your camera can get confused. It might end up tracking another subject you are not interested in.
For that reason, the one single focus is still more precise than the dynamic area/3D tracking. If your subject is not moving, you have better chances for a sharper image. 

Which Combinations Not to Use

Dynamic Area + AF-S Mode
Although your camera might let you select this combination, these 2 options are incompatible. On one side you are telling the camera to use an area of using several focus points to refocus if needed (dynamic area). But you are not allowing it to refocus (AF-S mode has not this option).
The dynamic area will get disabled and it will works as a Single-Point.
If you select this option because your subject is moving you can miss the shot. Your camera is working as if it were in Single Point Area+AF-S Mode (the one for static subjects).
3D Area + AF-S Mode
Same as with the previous, the camera won’t refocus. The 3D Area will get disabled and you’ll be taking photos like in Single Point Area+AF-S Mode.

How to Autofocus in Live View

Autofocus mode work slightly differently when you’re using Live View. In this case, you can select any point on the screen to focus on and not just the predefined focus points.
Live view autofocus mode works by detecting contrast in the scene while the viewfinder autofocus technology is based on phase shift sensors. Live view focusing is slower. But it is also more accurate for static subjects.
I recommend using it with AF-S mode. When selected, you will see a red square you can move around the screen using the arrow bottoms.
When it is in focus it will appear green and then it’s time to shoot!
Close up of adjusting autofocus modes on a camera while focusing on a plastic figure of a skeleton 


How to Use Autofocus Modes in Low Light Situations

In low light situations, your autofocus might go a bit crazy. Your lens will go into a loop looking for focus without success.
In these cases the AF-Assist built-in light can be really useful. Turn it on through your menu. When activated, your camera will send out an orange-red light that will point to your subject. This will help you focus.
But it’s not a perfect solution. It selects the AF-S Mode and focuses using the central focus point. It has a limited range too, so you need to be relatively close to your subject (0.5-3m).
An alternative you could use is to briefly illuminate the point you want to focus on using a flashlight or some other light source.
A wedding photo in low light shot using autofocus modes 

 Autofocus Modes

Getting familiar with the autofocus modes that your camera offers will allow you to take sharper images.
Select an autofocus area according to how your subject behaves. If it is static, use a single focus point and combine it with the Single-Servo Mode (to lock the focus when you half-press the shutter release) or the Continuous mode (to allow the camera to refocus on that point if the subjects moves slightly). 

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Camera Basics Series: Shooting Modes Explained – Free Quick Guide


There probably isn’t a more confusing and misunderstood topic on the camera side of photography than the shooting modes.

Shooting modes may be incredibly confusing to people just starting in photography; after all, there are so many letters and icons on that mode dial! What do these letters and icons mean?

Good question! And the sooner you understand them; the earlier your photography will improve and become more predictable.

This is what will be covered in this guide:

  • Auto Mode
  • Program Mode
  • Shutter Speed Priority Mode
  • Aperture Priority Mode
  • Manual Mode
  • The differences in the Nikon and Canon mode dials
  • A note on Scene Modes

There are those that believe that the manual mode is the only mode that a real photographer uses.

We don’t believe that. There are reasons that all of these different modes are available to photographers, even on the most professional level DSLR cameras.

Each mode has a purpose.

Are you ready to learn about them? Let’s go!

Photo Credit: Angela Fulks


Monday, May 29, 2023

#Amateur Photographers, Basic Photography

The 5 Levels of Amateur Photographers (Which are You in?)

Many amateur photographers quickly lose interest in photography. They can struggle to get started or get easily frustrated. This is especially true for those who make the leap to DSLRs. It’s much harder than it seems to capture what you see.

Digital SLRs are very popular these days, but most people seem to be unaware of the effort it takes to master photography.

Wondering how far you are from becoming a professional photographer? I’ve put together a little guide of the five different levels that you pass on the way. Read through and leave a comment below, letting us know where you’re at!

 

Level 1 – The Blind Amateur Photographer

  • You’re very new to photography, unsure of how any of it works, and you’re not very good.
  • You spend the majority of your time shooting on Full-Auto mode, and some of the presets, such as ‘portrait’.
  • You bought your camera a few years ago, but don’t remember really using it in the past year or so.
  • Photography isn’t what you thought it would be, and you’re not in any real hurry to learn more.
  • You would be happy if you could just capture what you see.Cute little girl with a camera sitting on a bed 
  • Photo by Kha Ruxury from Pexels

Level 2 – The Confused Amateur

  • You know to not use full auto mode, but your knowledge of the other dials is pretty minimal.
  • You tried learning aperture once, but you can’t remember whether a higher number gives you more or less light, and what a shallower or deeper DoF is.
  • You stopped using pop-up flash, claiming you don’t like flash photography, not realising there was much more you could do with the right gear.
  • You want to learn, but again, you don’t know where to start.
  • You buy the wrong gear, such as an 18-270mm when you should have purchased a 35mm f/1.8.
  • You’re using free editing software which will come back to bite you.
Photo of an outdoors fashion shoot
Photo by LĂȘ Minh from Pexels
 

Level 3 – The Promising Amateur


You have a full understanding of how exposure works, after finding some direction.
  • You go out for the simple purpose of taking photos, and nothing else.
  • You’ve taken some great photos recently. You look back at your pictures from a year ago and wonder why you liked them so much.
  • You start to carry your camera with you more, seeing more opportunities to take a photo.
  • You’re finally investing in the right gear, and this includes quality post-processing software.
Amateur photographer in a field of flowers
Photo by Min An from Pexels

Level 4 – The Wise Amateur

 
  • You finally know everything you need to about your camera, such as metering modes and white balance, leading you to take better photos.
  • You’re starting to build a good portfolio or strong images.
  • You realise the importance of an external camera flash and start using one more often, learning how it works.
  • You’ve found the niche that you have the most fun with, and you’ve started to excel in it, leaving other niches behind.
  • People start to ask you to bring your camera. Whether it’s to a party or a gathering, you’re known for taking good photos.
  • You’ve had a taste of quality photography gear, and you want more of it.
Woman holding a camera and showing the screen to the man next to her
Photo by Matheus Bertelli from Pexels

Level 5 – The Obsessive Amateur

 
  • You’ve moved on to more advanced techniques. These challenge you further and increase your skills.
  • Perhaps you’ve invested in a way to take your flash off-camera. This is difficult to learn but will improve your photos.
  • You’ve started to teach your friends too, who are only at level 2.
  • You excel even further in your niche. If you’re into fashion, you start working with makeup artists and models. If you’re into landscapes, you start traveling more to find them, etc.
  • You’ve been noticed, and offered your first photography job.
  • You start to seriously consider photography as at least another way to earn a living.
  • Your camera has become like an extra limb to you.
Man laying next to camera equipment laid out on a bed
Photo by Simon Migaj from Pexels

There’s a process that every amateur photographer goes through before reaching the pro level. Although it’s by no means an exact science, you can see that some steps can’t be missed.

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What Makes a Good Photo? – Free Quick Guide


Since photography is an art and also a commercially viable product, there are numerous answers to this question.

What makes a good photo in one respect might not be so good in another. Or not be so good in someone else’s eyes.

However, there are general standards in each genre of photography that are considered essential for creating a good photograph.

This guide will examine a few important attributes of the following photography genres that help make a picture good.

Here are the genres covered:

  • Portraits
  • Street Photography
  • Sports
  • Landscapes
  • Close-up and Macro
  • Architecture

Click below to grab your exclusive copy and enjoy!

Photo Credit: Kent DuFault


 

Sunday, May 21, 2023

 #Basic Photography,

Types of Portrait Photography You Should Know

Today, we’re going to guide you through various portrait ideas. There are many different types of portrait photography to experiment with.

Portrait photography is about capturing people and their personalities. But portraits often go beyond a photo of a smiling person. So, get creative and find the genre that fits your subject! 

1. Traditional Portrait Photography

A traditional portrait often depicts the subject looking at the camera. Classic portrait photography is posed. It helps people look their best. Photographers usually shoot conventional portraits in a studio with a formal photography backdrop.

This genre also tends to favor the most traditional portrait composition. This means the head-and-shoulders crop rather than a full-body portrait. But that’s not always the case.

Traditional portraits usually come to mind when thinking about the portrait genre. This type of image has been around for a long time. But it remains popular because combining poses and studio lighting creates flattering images.

A sub-genre of the traditional portraits are formal portraits. They apply the same poses and studio setting but wear formal or business attire.

Traditional portrait of a woman posing in front of a pink background

2. Lifestyle Portrait Photography

Lifestyle portraiture is the polar opposite of traditional portraits. Yes, it’s still a portrait of a person (or many people). But lifestyle portraits capture people in an everyday environment, often doing ordinary things.

This photographic genre works in an environment familiar to the subject instead of a studio. For example, you can take lifestyle portraits in someone’s home. Lifestyle portraits aren’t posed in the traditional sense.

A lifestyle photographer often has a limited time frame to capture a series of portraits. Plus, lifestyle photographers will usually direct the subjects. For example, they may ask siblings to jump on a bed or ask a family to give each other a group hug.

Clients that choose lifestyle photography like the genre because it resembles real life. Lifestyle family photography also captures the interaction between family members. This way, you can create some touching memories.

Three women wearing face masks for a lifestyle portrait

3. Fine Art Portrait Photography

The fine art portrait genre is controversial. Artists debate what classifies something as fine art. Fine art portraits can include anything. You often see artists use visual techniques to make their images pleasing to the eye. The characteristics of fine art portraits come down to context, concept, and storytelling.

Jovana Rikalo is a great artist for fine art portraiture inspiration. She creates her own universe. And you, the viewer, get to decide the narrative and context of her characters.

The secret to fine art portraits is to get creative. Try out-of-the-box photography techniques that make sense in your head!    

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Flash vs. Natural Light: Comparing and Contrasting Techniques for Portrait Photography – Free Quick Guide   

Download Your Free Guide Now →                                                                               
                                                                                               

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Friday, May 12, 2023

 #Photography Basics, Photography Tutorial

My photo  

by Darryl T.

Photography Life

Articles about photography can be interesting - but boringly long.  Photography Tutorials have the same problem.  While researching photography resources, I stumbled across a digital "gold mine" of photography tips.  It's called "The Open Library".  You can literally access dozens of photography tips, tutorials and related resources FREE of charge.  Below are some of the many titles available to you.

Cover of: Practical photography by McCoy, Robert A.   Cover of: Photography by Henry Horenstein, Russell Hart   Cover of: Advertising photography by Allyn Salomon  Cover of: Photography (Teach Yourself)    Cover of: Digital photography by Tom Ang  Cover of: Digital photography for dummies by Julie Adair King   Cover of: The technique of bird photography. by John Warham   Cover of: Wedding Photography. by Jonathan Hilton Cover of: Outdoor Photography 

Remember, these are just a few of the dozens of "photography for beginners" titles available FREE of charge.  In addition to posting free photography life articles on my blog, I love finding "best of" freebies for my readers to access.  Enjoy, and feel free to pass these along to your friends on social media. You can find them here: 

https://openlibrary.org/search?page=8&q=Photography&mode=everything 

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(Shameless Plug:  Be sure to check out my videos near the bottom of this page.  If you like what you see You can visit my Photography video site on Rumble.com via this link: 
https://tinyurl.com/4hs6br2n 
While you're there, please smash the "follow" button so you'll be notified when I post new content.  Thanks for watching).  

 #Basic Photography

 

10 Film Cameras in 2023

These are 10 film cameras that are widely respected and much loved by the film photography community. There are plenty of other cameras that I could add to this list, but 10 is more than enough for most people’s camera collections.
I get into the habit of buying too many, and then only using my favorites, so trust me, 10 is enough. The list is also narrowed down by format, because although I’d love to put a polaroid camera on there, it’s near impossible to find film for them!
If you’d like to learn more about film photography, click here, or here.

10 of the Best Film Cameras

Olympus Pen

When I was putting this list together, I was trying to decide between the Olympus Pen, Trip, and OM-10, all of which are excellent and notable cameras. I decided on the Olympus Pen though because of its unique format.
It takes 35mm film, but it will take 72 exposures on a single roll of 36 exposures. How? It’s half frame. You point the camera at a landscape, and it takes a portrait photo, taking up just half of the frame.
It was the first half frame camera produced in Japan and was considered portable, hence the name, Pen.Olympus Pen - must have film camera
There are many different versions of this camera, the majority of which are rangefinders (remember to take the lens cap off!), but there are also some SLR versions called the Pen F. These cameras are great fun and one that I’ve owned for a couple years now.
They’re so legendary in fact, that you’re probably familiar with the digital reproduction, even if it doesn’t stay true to the original half-frame format.

Nikon F

The Nikon F first appeared in 1959, as Nikon’s first SLR camera. It marked a change of direction for the company, moving away from rangefinders, into what they saw as the future; SLR.
A huge range of lenses soon became available, as well as accessories, such as remotes, flashes, bulk film magazines, scientific attachments, and even a polaroid back.
The camera has a good reputation of being well made, reliable and easy to use, with a wide range of high quality lenses. It’s really the lenses that sell any camera for me, and with the bayonet mount on the Nikon F, the selection was (and still is) vast.Nikon F - must have film camera

Canon AE-1

The Canon AE-1 was produced by Canon for nearly 10 years, which sounds a bit absurd when you consider our throwaway culture these days, but that’s just down to how good, and how popular this camera was.
Originally produced much later than the Nikon above, in 1976, it was Canon’s first affordable TTL (Through The Lens metering) cameras, which added autoexposure modes as well as shutter-speed priority, which we’re all familiar with today.
Because of the low cost, and added features, it became one of the most popular cameras of the time. This means it’s not hard to find them today.Canon AE-1 - must have film camera

Hasselblad 500C/M

With the exception of the shape, this was a completely new camera for Hasselblad. It changed how the camera worked with a new shutter which would allow flashes to sync at all shutter speeds.
The whole idea with Hasselblad is that it’s interchangeable, and with 6 different lenses, 4 film backs, and 4 viewfinders, there were plenty of options available.
The 500 series was first introduced in 1957, but it wasn’t replaced until the 500C/M came into production in 1970, bringing with it an interchangeable focusing screen and an improved automatic back.
Hasselblad are synonymous with quality and they make some of the most expensive cameras available today, in digital format. There’s even a few Hasselblads in space still from the Apollo missions.
Trusted for their quality, they were popular in their day, and coveted now, only slightly harder to use. They take 120 film, which only takes 12-16 exposures on a roll, and development can be expensive and annoying.
Hasselblad 500C/M - must have film camera

Pentax K1000

If you’re looking for bells and whistles, then look somewhere else. This camera was aimed towards the amateur photographer market, and it was first introduced in 1976. It continued to be manufactured for over 20 years, even though it was out of date by the time it was released. Why?
Because there was no program mode, nor aperture or shutter priority, or even a self-timer, mirror lock-up, or DoF preview. These were very popular cameras with students because they were cheap, a great way to learn, and lasted for ages.
There’s plenty around, so finding one shouldn’t be a problem.
Pentax K100 - must have film camera

Widelux

Compared to the other cameras on this list, it’s nowhere near as famous but has a real wow-factor in my books. It’s a panorama camera which takes 35mm film, which works by swinging the lens from one side of the camera to the other.
If you follow the actor Jeff Bridges, then you may be aware that he’s an avid photographer who uses one himself. He even published a book full of photos in 2004.
They’re good fun, and cost between $500-1000 on eBay. Their 150-degree viewing angle makes for some awe-inspiring photos, even if the camera itself is a little hard to use.Widelux - must have film camera
eBay price: $500-$1000

Holga

With the regeneration of film photography and iPhone apps that mimic the same effect, such as Hipstamatic and Instagram, Holga has taken on a whole new lease of life, along with a very similar rival camera, the Diana.
Both are part of the Lomography movement, using cheap plastic lenses and film to produce some very interesting effects. Like the Hasselblad, it uses medium format 120 film, which is annoying to get developed, but there’s also a 35mm version available now.
The cheap manufacturing produces vignetting, light leaks and blurs, which has helped people to fall in love with the nature of film photography again.

Leica M4

What can I say about the Leica M4? It’s an absolute classic and a symbol of quality for film photographers everywhere. But it ain’t cheap. It was first introduced in 1967, it’s a rangefinder camera with a home in every good, self-respecting photographer’s collection.
The name Leica alone is synonymous with quality, but the M4 makes the name much more notable. The camera continued to be produced until 1975, but the market for Leica’s has such high demand. With not too many people really wanting to sell theirs, you’re looking at around $2000 for one.Leica M4- must have film camera

Rolleiflex E TLR

The Rolleiflx E TLR (Twin Lens Reflex) is very different in design to most modern cameras because it requires you to look straight down towards the ground and into the camera, to see a projection of the image.
Two lenses are used, the first is used to capture the image onto film, and the second is used to display the image to the photographer.
This particular model was first produced around 1956, and looks like a typical grandpa camera, with its old styling and Zeiss lenses. Look for the 2.8 models, which incorporated an f/2.8 aperture, which allowed for more light into the lens. A true must-have.Rolleiflex E TLR - must have film camera

Minolta SR-T 101

This is a camera close to my heart, and one that I’ve owned two of. The first one was dropped and damaged the light meter, so I replaced it while waiting for it to be repaired.
It was first brought into production in 1966 and was produced for 10 years, with only very minor changes. The easy-to-use light meter in the viewfinder makes exposure very easy. And the pin sharp lenses make for some spectacular images.
I recommend the 35mm f/1.7. I honestly can’t recommend this camera enough. 

You can find nearly all of these camera brands and more on Ebay. Go to the Ebay web page,

type the brand name you want in the search box which says, ("Search for anything"). To visit Ebay, 

simply Click Here.

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Seven Photo Composition Skills That You Need to Master – Free Quick Guide


Everyone wants to be a better photographer. And we will tell you straight up that if you can master these seven skills, you will be on your way to becoming the best photographer you can be.

Take a dozen photographers that all have the same camera model and lens. Put them in front of a subject and tell them to take pictures.

There is only one thing that can differentiate them: their mind. How they compose the pictures that they are taking.

Composition is your secret tool to becoming the best photographer that you can be.

Here are the seven crucial composition skills that we will discuss:

  • Patterns
  • Balance
  • Negative Space
  • Grouping
  • Closure
  • Color
  • Light and Shadow

Click Below to Grab Your Copy Right Now!

Photo Credit: Aaron Burden

 
(Shameless Plug:  Be sure to check out my videos near the bottom of this page.  If you like what you see You can visit my Photography video site on Rumble.com via this link: 
https://tinyurl.com/4hs6br2n 
While you're there, please smash the "follow" button so you'll be notified when I post new content.  Thanks for watching).