#Creative Portraits

21 Creative Self-Portrait Ideas for Photographers (#7 Will Make You Smile)

 

By Taya Ivanova 

The first photography genre I fell in love with was self-portraiture. It entered my life at the perfect time. I was yearning to express myself, get better at something new, and feel inspired.

Self-portrait photography provided me with plenty of inspiration. It also taught me how to find photo-worthy moments almost anywhere. That’s why I encourage every photographer to give it a try.

If you don’t know where to start, you’ve come to the right place. The tips and tricks in this article will teach you how to find inspiration and invest in the right equipment.
You might think it becomes repetitive, and you will lose motivation. If your subject is the same, how can you get creative? Don’t worry. We have the solution!

We also provide you with 21 creative self-portrait ideas so that you don’t end up with the same composition.

 

Essential Equipment for Self-Portrait Photography

Starting with the right equipment will make self-portrait photography easier.
A tripod and a remote are the essential tools. They’re both very affordable and enduring. Investing in them is something you won’t regret. A sturdy tripod will keep your camera safe, while a remote will let you use your timer from a distance. This will save a lot of time and help you focus more on the quality of your work.

Lighting is another crucial aspect of self-portrait photography. Natural light can look great. But you have very little control over it. You can use additional lighting to give yourself more creative freedom. A ring light is perfect for self-portraits. They provide soft and evenly spread light. You can use them to remove unwanted shadows on the face. Or you can use them for directional light. Reflectors are another excellent tool for light control. A mirror works well, too, as a DIY reflector, if you don’t have the budget.

21 Self-Portrait Ideas to Inspire You

In the beginning, you might feel lost. You don’t know what poses, facial expressions, and decorations to use. Find portrait photographers you admire, try to recreate their work, and ask them for advice. By experimenting with different styles, you’ll find your style.

Some of the most influential artists in my life are self-portrait photographers. Check out Rosie Hardy, or Sophie Eggert for some ideas. Getting photography inspiration from others helps me when I lose creative motivation. This is why I’d like to share these creative self-portrait ideas. They will spark your imagination, encourage you to look at things differently, or make you laugh. Feel free to adopt any of these to better suit your photography style.

1. Create Characters Through Props and Costumes

Self-portraits are an excellent way to explore and express yourself. But you can also use them as a means of escape. By using props and costumes, you can create a whole new persona. It can be an alter-ego—an expression of your inner desires or interests.

Building characters with self-portrait photography is a fantastic storytelling device. The props and costumes you use can create new characters. They can be protagonists in wild adventures or magical fairy tales. Jovana Rikalo uses elaborate costumes to build fairy tale characters. These characters inhabit her imaginative stories and landscapes.

2. Add Rainbows

Vibrant colors and faces work very well together. If you don’t want to spend money on a prism, you can still create a stunning rainbow effect. All you need is a CD and a flashlight. Make sure the shiny side of your CD gets as much light as possible. Move it around until you have colorful stripes on your face. To make this process easier, use a mirror, a tripod, and a remote. 

 

3. Photograph Your Silhouette

Silhouettes are great for those who don’t want to show their faces or those who want to look like someone else. These photos work very well with a shallow depth of field because of the resulting bokeh. It creates a soft, dreamy look.

To create a silhouette, stand in front of a background that is brighter than you. Make sure you stand so that it highlights the outline of your face. Then experiment with no fear!

4. Transform Silhouettes into Double Exposures

Silhouettes are ideal for creating double exposures. A dark outline against a bright background is all you need to make artistic self-portrait photography. I often create double exposures out of pure curiosity.

You don’t need to have a groundbreaking idea in mind to create something fascinating. All you have to do is combine a photo of your outline with an image that complements your photo.

5. Use DIY Backgrounds for Self Portrait Photography

DIY photography is cheap, easy, and accessible to anyone. Make backgrounds out of fabric, bed sheets, curtains, clothes, or anything else that catches your eye. The background in the photos below is a simple curtain that I taped to the wall. Though it’s wrinkled, it gives my self-portraits an exciting texture.

6. Do Something You Really Enjoy

Take a series of self-portraits in your happy place, wherever that is. It will make the shooting process enjoyable and allow you to make the most of several hobbies at once.

I enjoy playing the guitar (as you can see), reading, and exploring. These are all interests that I can combine to show my love for both photography and life. Think about your interests, and then figure out ways to connect them in one photo.

7. Take Photos with Your Pet (Or a Person!)

Pets are photogenic, so why not include them in your photos? If you own a pet or live next to someone who means a lot to you, take a photo with them.

Getting support during a self-portrait photography session will give you comfort, warmth, and lots of ideas. It will also strengthen the bond you have with your loved one.

If your pet doesn’t enjoy sitting still, don’t force it. Experiment, be silly and don’t be afraid of making mistakes. Experimental photos end up being the best ones, anyway.

8. Transform Yourself Using Wigs and Costumes

Many people avoid self-portrait photography because they don’t feel attractive enough. Instead of feeling bad about your appearance, transform yourself! If you don’t want to take photos of yourself, why don’t you become another person?

Wigs and costumes, regardless of their quality, look great in self-portraits. A cheap brown wig will look stunning in a close-up self-portrait, even if it looks unflattering in real life. Using costumes and wigs is fun and helps you take impressive self-portrait photos.

9. Focus on Details

Self-portraits don’t have to be photos of a face. They can be photos of hands holding something beloved, feet splashing in a puddle, or a faceless figure admiring its surroundings in nature. Details like these are as valuable as a photo of your face.

Look around, find a detail that catches your eye, and interact with it while taking photos. Other details you could take photos of are parts of your body like hair, hands, or eyes.

10. Get an Interesting Headdress (Or Make Your Own!)

Hats, flower crowns, and other fancy headwear look fantastic in photos. If you’re feeling extra artistic, make your own headdress using flowers (like I did), branches, fabric, or anything else. The world is your oyster when it comes to DIY photography!

11. Be Silly

Many people feel awkward at the beginning of a self-portrait session. You get more comfortable if you practice different expressions in the mirror. You can also accept your flaws and become your own parody.

Pull different facial expressions, move around, and make yourself laugh. Though I can’t guarantee that the results will please you, I can promise that they will bring a big smile to your face.

12. Shoot Through Objects

Partly covering your lens will result in experimental and creative self-portraits. Shoot through things like lights, hands, and branches if you want to do so. You can use branches to create a frame around your face or add an interesting element to your photos. Steam can create eye-catching shadows.

If you want a fuller effect, shoot through windows for brilliant reflections, or cellophane for a dreamy effect. Use bokeh filters to transform it into hearts, stars, or other shapes. You can use almost anything in a composition to make creative self-portraits. Use the entire object or only parts of it.

13. Hide Parts of Your Face

Instead of taking photos of your entire face, focus on one area only. I like to cover parts of my face with curtains, hair, and blurred foregrounds. This concealment highlights my eyes and challenges me to make the most of only one feature.

The best thing about “hidden” self-portraits is that you don’t have to go far to take them. It’s possible to take simple yet cool self-portraits right now!

14. Pretend You’re in a Movie

If you are like me and love cinematic portraits, you’ll enjoy acting in front of the camera. Create a story in your mind, visualize the scenes, and recreate them through self-portrait photography.

Your idea doesn’t need a complicated twist or a surprising ending. Add two black lines above and below your photos in the editing process. You can even crop them, so they look more like film stills. Doing this is a great reason to rewatch films to get even more inspiration for future projects.

15. Shoot in Black and White

Black and white portraits are a special genre of their own. If there’s an emotion you’d like to emphasize, experiment with B&W photography. It will highlight your feelings and add texture to details you might otherwise ignore. It also gives you more experience in the genre.

16. Go Limited

Having too many options at once can feel paralyzing. Limiting yourself by shooting at only one location can improve your work.

Do a photoshoot in one room and make the pictures look like you took them in different locations. It will not only give you a fun project to work on but force you to look at your surroundings from a new perspective. This challenge will also make you focus on details that you usually overlook.

It will improve your general creativity and sharpen your ability to notice great things in simple places. What you learn during this process will come in handy in every future shoot.

17. Make a Diptych

A diptych is a “collage” made of two photos. These images often contain many subjects that tell a detailed story about the photographer. This is particularly handy in self-portraiture.

You can combine a simple photo of yourself with a gorgeous photo of nature. Diptychs come in handy when you have two photos you like a lot. Instead of choosing one, you can use them both at once!

18. Stick to One Color at a Time

Pick a single color and create a self-portrait photo series inspired by it. Though the photos don’t have to feature one color only, they should all have a similar color scheme.

This project will refresh you, challenge your imagination, and give you a chance to unleash your creativity. Plus, you can base the photoshoot on the clothes in your wardrobe.

19. Experiment with Shadows and Lighting

My favorite portrait photographers are excellent at shadow-play. You can do so much with the help of a single light source and a pattern.

Give yourself as much freedom as possible when you experiment with light. Use sun hats, curtains, hands, or plants to create incredible, creative self-portrait photography.

Light is a priceless tool that can make the simplest portraits look fantastic. When you become a master of light, you become a master of photography. Take photos both indoors and outdoors, and don’t be afraid to break the rules as you do.

Don’t be scared of working with artificial light. You don’t need to invest in professional lighting equipment. You can use any indoor light you own to take creative self-portraits. I often use a lamp to light my face because it lets me experiment with new angles and styles. I don’t have to worry about time, which isn’t the case when it comes to ever-changing natural light.

20. Stitch Photos to Make a Panoramic Self Portrait

Panoramas are fun to make and pleasant to look at. This is how I make mine:

1. I take vertical self-portraits that don’t crop any of my limbs and leave space around me using a tripod.
2. Then, I go back to my camera and take photos of the areas I’d like to stitch. I make sure that I don’t make any quick movements or position myself to another location.
3. After that, I import my photos into Lightroom. I select the photos I’d like to stitch and go to Photo > Edit In > Merge to Panorama in Photoshop.
4. Finally, I color correct the results.

21. Document the Seasons

Each season has something worth photographing. Take self-portraits every season. This way, you can work on a year-long project. The results will give you pleasant memories, show you every side of nature’s beauty, and impress others.

If a long-term project doesn’t excite you, make the most of the current season. Think of what you like about it. It could be the blooming sunflowers of summer or the colorful fallen leaves of autumn.

Photograph that and include yourself in it.

Taking photos of yourself will improve your self-confidence and develop your creative eye.

Like any photography genre, self-portraiture needs to be meaningful and touching. Every photographer has a unique creative purpose. If you don’t know your purpose, don’t lose hope. Don’t be afraid of making mistakes. This is how we learn! The more you practice, the easier the challenges will get.

Hopefully, these ideas will encourage you to go out and explore the wonderful world of self-portrait photography. Remember, you and your camera are everything you need to take a great photo of yourself.

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Creative Outdoor Self-Portraiture – Free Quick Guide

Download Your Free Guide Now →

If you haven’t tried self-portraits, you should.

They are a lot of fun, especially if you put some time, thought, and creative energy into them.

The “Selfie”, as self-portraiture has come to be known in recent years, has kind of taken a “bad rap” among those of us that consider ourselves to be “real photographers”.

The truth is that expressive self-portraiture is an artform that goes back to the earliest years of photography.

If you’d like some ideas on how to revive this historical artform into your photographic work, check out our free eBook this week.

Check out the guide for some cool examples of creative self-portraiture for inspiration!

If you like post-production, your creative self-portraiture has unlimited potential.

Photo Credit: Stacey Hill

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# World, Photo

Water Photography Tips: How to Get That Soft Misty Effect

By Taya Ivanova 

Some photos of water are very sharp, while others look like they were taken straight out of a misty dream.

To achieve the soft, misty water look, you need to improve your long exposure photography. Let’s get started with these water photography tips. 

Figure out Your Favorite Kind of Water Photography to Take Creative Photos

Since water exists in a variety of places, you have a lot of exciting water photography subjects to choose from. A few subject ideas:

• Waterfalls
• Running tap water
• Seas or oceans

You can also combine these subjects with other genres. For example, you can include props or animals in your water photography.

You can also take self-portraits next to silky-looking water. The more photography subjects you experiment with, the more original your photos will look.

Find an Appropriate Location to Avoid Damaging Your Equipment or Getting Distracted

When you pick your favourite subject, you can start looking for appropriate locations.

Make sure the location is safe and has plenty of room. The more spacious it is, the more room you’ll have to shoot water photography from creative angles. Be aware of tourists, drones, and anything else that could get in the way.

Also, keep weather changes in mind. Most smooth water images are taken on peaceful days. If you’re taking pictures of a waterfall on a windy day, the water might end up damaging your equipment.

The lighting also has to be decent for you to take professional-looking water photography. Try photographing water during the golden hour or the blue hour.

You can use all of the water pictures in this article as a reference. You’ll notice that most of them have dramatic and vibrant skies. This feature is why they stand out from the photos in the water photography genre.

Find a Focal Point That Tells a Story About the Water

This doesn’t need to be a complicated process. Your goal is to find something that complements the water and tells an interesting story.

For example, you can add people or objects to your composition. This will create depth and give viewers more to observe when they look at your pictures.

In the photo above, the photographer chose to create symmetry using the wooden poles. The water isn’t the main subject of the image, but it complements the entire landscape.

The focal point is the group of wooden poles, which stand out more when surrounded by smooth water.

Use a Slow Shutter Speed to Create That Soft Misty Effect

When you take soft photos, you need to keep two settings in mind:

• Shutter speed: The slower it is, the silkier the water will look. You should experiment with different speeds because every photographer has specific preferences.
• Aperture: A large aperture (e.g. f/1.2) creates more background and foreground blur. This is great for close-ups. A small aperture (e.g. f/16) captures more details. This is ideal for landscape photos.

Use a Neutral Density Filter to Take Professional Water Photos

A neutral density filter (or ND filter) is every landscape photographer’s best friend.

This filter prevents underexposure and overexposure. Even if you’re taking photos on a bright day, your photos will look well-lit and neutral.

ND filters are essential in long exposure water photography. Because of all the movements and reflections, your photos might look overexposed.

The water might look too dull or vibrant compared to its surroundings. ND filters fix this instantly.

Always Use a Tripod and a Remote to Avoid Unnecessary Motion Blur

Water photography usually focuses on the movement of water and clouds only.

If your entire image is blurred, it will look abstract. There’s nothing wrong with this, but it’s not ideal if you like traditional landscape photography.

To keep your photos steady, use a tripod and a remote. A remote will let you take pictures without touching your camera. This will prevent any unnecessary movements from happening.

If you don’t want to invest in a remote, you can use a timer instead.

Try Different Angles to Create Captivating Water Images

There are millions, if not billions, of silky water photos out there. If you want to make your photos look original, you need to think outside the box.

This means experimenting with different angles. Take unconventional photos of water. Break the rules. The more unusual ideas you work with, the more eye-catching your photos will be.

The image above is an excellent example of creative thinking. Most long exposure photographs are vast and atmospheric. Close-ups aren’t as frequent.

The photo above focuses on the movement of the water and the stillness of the rocks. The composition and colours all make it an original example of water photography.

Should You Try to Photograph Reflections on Bodies of Water?

It’s challenging to capture proper reflections in long exposure photography. Your reflection will likely get lost in the movements. This will make it look abstract and blurred.

If you want to capture sharper reflections in water, you need to use faster shutter speed. You don’t have to use a tripod, but it could help you take sharper photos.

Common Water Photography Questions

How Do I Make Water Look Misty in Pictures?

For a slightly misty effect, place your camera on a tripod and use slow shutter speed.

Try photographing water in different locations and shoot from different angles. All of this will bring you closer to shooting beautiful and misty images of water.

How Do You Get the Silky Water Effect?

The silky water effect is a result of long exposure photography.

You can achieve this by using a slow shutter speed. The slower it is, the silkier the water will look.

How Do You Take Pictures of Flowing Water?

You must use a tripod when shooting flowing water. This will help you take pictures that aren’t entirely blurred.

You should also use slow shutter speeds and an ND filter to make everything in your photograph look professional.

What Is the Best Shutter Speed for Waterfalls?

It depends on how silky you want the waterfall to look. The slower the shutter speed, the more abstract the water will look.

Some photographers set their shutter speeds to 4s, 15s, and even 30s. You can experiment with different speeds to find one that complements your style.

Water is an indispensable part of our lives, but it’s also a photogenic subject.

To make it look soft and dreamy, all you need is slow shutter speed, a tripod, and patience. Remember to try shooting from unusual angles to develop your unique photography style.

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Amazing Abstracts with Oil and Water – Free Quick Guide

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Can I interest you in a fun photography project that has little to no cost?

Take a look at the photograph above…

You can create photographs just like this one with a simple close focusing camera setup and a few items found in your kitchen.

Photzy Author and Photographer Leanne Cleavely is going to walk you through the process of shooting abstract images of oil and water step-by-step.

You will soon find yourself capturing beautiful abstract photos that will amaze your friends, family, and fellow photographers!

Photo Credit: Leanne Cleavely

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#Creative Portrait Photography

Best Techniques for Shooting Stunning Waterfall Photography

 

By Alessandro Torri 

Waterfalls are one of nature’s wonders for landscape photography. When I’m in front of a waterfall, I want to get smooth, silky water and motion blur with a long exposure. That can be tricky.

In this article, I’ll share seven tips for breathtaking waterfall photography.

 

Stay Safe When Photographing Waterfalls

Photographing waterfalls can be a dangerous field. You will find yourself in slippery terrain when learning how to photograph waterfalls. Every rock, leaf and tree is wet, muddy or full of moss and lichens. So keep in mind to constantly watch your step.

Depending on the season, water streams and waterfalls can be big and powerful. The moving water can make you lose your balance or drag your equipment away.

The closer you get to a waterfall, the more water spray and airflow there will be. Your camera gear and equipment can be damaged while capturing the perfect shot.

To keep your camera safe, use a plastic bag to protect the front lens or any filters. I found a practical solution with hair shower caps found in hotels. They’re very light and get the job done.

Try Composing Your Shots From the River

It’s an old truth: if you want good photographs, you need to move your feet.

The problem with water photography is that you are moving in wet and slippery terrain. So, before you go in, take all the precautions needed.

You might find a rock in the river that will be great for the foreground or as a platform for your tripod. You can often find a better angle in the river to give your beautiful waterfall photography all the justice it deserves.

Another good reason to wet your feet is the composition. There is a high probability that the waterfall photography composition will work better from the river. You can use the stream itself as an element of interest guiding towards the waterfall.

A good solution, if you don’t like to wet your feet or legs, is to use fishing boots. Some you can even hook to your belt or, even better, overalls. That way you can immerse yourself to your waist.

What Gear Do You Need for Waterfall Photography?

Tripod

The first accessory for water photography is a sturdy tripod to avoid camera shake.

It’s typical for my tripod to be in the middle of the stream with rushing water everywhere. It’s absolutely necessary to have a firm anchor for the camera. It’s better to have spikes at the end of the tripod’s legs for mud.

A tripod also allows you to take long exposure photography.

Polarising Filter

Using a circular polarizing filter or CPL is fundamental for landscape photography, especially for water photography in general. With a CPL you can get interesting exposure times because you’ll lose almost a stop of light. These exposure times are what make long exposures possible.

The CPL removes reflections from non-metallic surfaces. This means it will eliminate the reflections from leaves and water pools. You will be able to see the bottom of the stream and the rocks below the water with their beautiful colours.

Remote Shutter

Another necessity is a remote shutter. This will prevent blurry images.

With a remote camera shutter, you don’t have to be so close to your camera all the time. I can always use a 2-sec delayed shot, but I prefer an old-fashioned remote with a cable.

It cost me a fraction of the ones that use radio waves, Bluetooth, IR or WiFi, and it doesn’t need batteries. You can also wrap it in a little plastic bag secured with duct tape, and you’ll have no worries if it falls in the water.

Lens

There is no perfect lens for photographing waterfalls. As in any other photographic field, lens choice is part of the composition you want.

A wide angle lens lets you fit more elements into your image. For example, if you want to frame your subject with a tree or you want to include a rock formation.

Using a telephoto lens, or a lens with a focal length of more than 50mm, can add a unique perspective. Focusing on detailed rocks or another interesting element with the waterfall in the background can add interest.

Neutral Density Filters

You might be wondering, what ND filter do I need for waterfalls? ND filters are not strictly required but can be useful in long-exposure photography. If you are shooting waterfalls, you are most likely in a tight canyon, in a low light scenario. Using ND filters lets you shoot with slow shutter speed. It could be a 20-30 seconds exposure. If you go with a very dense filter like 10-stop ND filters, it could be slower shutter speed.

But you have to be careful if you decide to use a Neutral Density filter. The image will be very smooth and silky water movement, but everything else will be blurry. You will also lose details in the waterfall.

Graduated Neutral Density Filters

In some cases, I also use a Graduated Neutral Density (GND filter) to control the light hitting the camera sensor. I use these when my scene is not completely in the shade, and I need to manage the sunlight. This way, I can decide which element to emphasise and which to hide.

How to Compose Waterfall Shots

When you first arrive at your waterfall, don’t set up your camera and tripod straightaway. Instead, walk around, bend down, change your perspective, change your point of view, etc.

I walk around to check where I can easily and safely go and try to look at every angle. Next, I grab my camera, and I repeat the same thing. I try to look at every corner, especially if it’s my first time in that place. I climb rocks and fallen trees. I approach the location and leave it several times.

If I’m not shooting a waterfall exposed to light, I have the time to find and improve my composition.  The light or rather, the shadow will not change much. It will always be manageable.

What I always worry about is an anchor point in the foreground for the viewer’s eye. Something that will guide them in reading the image from the foreground to the waterfall. This point of interest could be an autumn leaf, a beautiful rock with green moss, or the shape of the stream. There is always a sort of S-curve composition with streams and rocks.

Next, I try to avoid the sky. As mentioned before, you are in a tight canyon. All the scene could easily be in the shade. It might be difficult to manage the correct exposure with a triangle of light at the top.

I always use the rule of thirds, and I try to put elements on those four points.

After exploring the composition, I set up my tripod and camera. I choose a focal point, usually a rock or a detail in one of the lower thirds, and I let the magic begin.

Camera Settings for Perfect Waterfall Photos

You might be asking, how do you photograph waterfalls with a DSLR?

Shooting in Aperture Mode or Manual Mode is a matter of taste. I usually find myself in Aperture Mode. By shooting at f/9.0 or f/10 or even more, I have a large depth of field. This ensures everything is in focus. If you decide to use manual mode, start with the lowest ISO (this is ISO 100).

But what is the best shutter speed for waterfalls? I use slow shutter speed to make the water appear silky smooth.

Now comes the CPL. I spin the filter four or five times to be sure of the effect. I prefer to spend some time testing the effect, so I check the live view of the camera while its spinning.

I also make sure that my main elements are in focus. And I take more test shots whether I have to do additional fine-tuning. I look over for the foreground, the light reflections, the greens from vegetation.

Every time I take a shot, I read the histogram.

I try to manage the highlights and the whites right in the field; you can’t manage them in post-processing. If I burn the highlights, I cannot recover them in Lightroom.

These are so important for the waterfall and all its details. Even silky water can have fascinating details like tiny water drops. These can give impact and movement to the image.

Overall, I try to have a well balanced and truthful histogram. It will most likely be a little to the left, to the shadows. But, that is okay as it’s consistent with the scene.

If the histogram shifts to the right, I try to change the light coming to the sensor using a GND (Graduated Neutral Density) filter. The beauty of modern filter holders is that they can turn 360 degrees. This allows us to shape the light as we want.

I put on a Neutral Density filter only when I am sure I want to smooth the water’s movement and have the right amount of motion blur.

An exposure time of four or five seconds is plenty for a stream or fall with a good amount of water and movement. If the result is okay, then I take another last shot. That’s the shot that I have built myself with a simple but effective mental and practical process.

Using an iPhone to Shoot Waterfalls

If you don’t have a DSLR camera, you can also use your iPhone to shoot long exposures.

But, how do you take waterfall pictures on iPhone?

On the native camera app on the iPhone, turn on Live Photos. This feature that lets you take a series of photos and turns your shot into a short video clip. This feature also lets you apply various built-in effects on your native camera app, including long exposure. After taking a live photo, apply the “long exposure” effect to your image. Your iPhone will automatically apply the effect on your photos.

Using Live Photos is a simple way to create long exposure shots, but there is no guarantee the shot will come out well. To have more control over your images, use a third-party app.

What to Watch Out for in Waterfall Photography

You can shoot waterfalls in any weather conditions. I prefer to avoid heavy rain because I have to face the splashes of water that come from the waterfall. The raindrops can turn everything into a real nightmare.

It’s a constant game of patience. I put the camera in position, and the front lens or ND filter will be completely wet. So I dry it and try to protect it. When I’m ready to shoot, the little drops return to ruin everything.

In short, protect your lens, but be ready to clean it up many times if you shoot when it’s raining.

There is another aspect to keep in mind when you want to take pictures of waterfalls, especially if you want a long exposure waterfall photograph and motion blur.

You can divide waterfalls into two broad categories. Those that are at low altitude and those that are higher up.

In late spring the waterfalls of low or medium altitude are more loaded with water. The snow up high is melting down and flowing rapidly in the streams. So the waterfalls will be more scenic but also more dangerous.

Waterfalls that are higher up in altitude can be icy. You have to wait until summer when the snow at high altitude melts so you can see them full of water.

However, in the summertime, the heat can cause river levels to decrease, so low-altitude waterfalls can dry up.

My favourite moment to go hunting for waterfalls is in autumn after a rainy day. The temperature has already started to cool down, and it’s raining more often. This will increase water flow.

Autumn also helps with those vibrant and intense colors. The leaves begin to fall from trees, and they turn red, orange, yellow. They are an excellent point of attraction for compositions. Using the CPL accentuates these bright colors.

These are my tips for beautiful waterfall photography. Remember that you are going into nature so your primary goal should be safety.

Be cautious but enjoy the beautiful spectacle of nature on your own, with your friends or with other photographers. Have fun and enjoy your time photographing! 

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Free Guide – How to Photograph Waterfalls

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I believe most of us have felt the inspiration, (and awe), that comes with visiting waterfalls.

It doesn’t matter if the falls is huge, or small; it still creates that sense of ‘oneness’ with the earth.

Waterfalls have been a source of inspiration to artists since man began walking the planet.

This week, Jason Little, provides us with a free quick guide on how to effectively photograph these wonders of nature.

Here are a few of the tips that Jason shares:

• Equipment (Most of these items you probably already own. But, here you’ll learn what works best!)
• Controlling the light (How do you control the intensity of the light over a large area?)
• Where do you find a waterfall? (There may be one closer to you than you think!)
• What’s the best angle? (I didn’t have a clue about this until I read the guide!)
• What camera settings should you use? (Jason provides step-by-step advice.)
• What weather provides the best opportunity? (The answer is surprising.)

Image Credit : carezze

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#Camera Reviews, Top Tech

Top 9 Must Have DSLR Accessories for Wildlife Photography

By Julian Rad 

Wildlife photography relies on many different photography accessories to get that magic shot. Every photographer works with different accessories, but some are universally useful.
As a wildlife photographer myself, I can say the DSLR accessories listed below should be in everyone’s bag. These will help you significantly improve the quality of your wildlife photos.

Camera Bag

A camera bag is a necessity for wildlife photographers. It will safely carry your camera and accessories. And it will protect your photography gear from the elements.
If you carry around big items, such as a laptop or long telephoto lenses, make sure to check measurements and look for a bag that is big enough for everything.
I personally use the YAAGLE Oxford backpack when I am out to shoot wildlife.
It is big enough to hold two telephoto lenses at the same time.
It also has a tripod holder with a quick release strap. This is really handy. It will make your life as a wildlife photographer much easier. Your tripod will always be within easy reach.
In fact, many camera bags don’t have this feature.
Another really great camera backpack is the Lowepro Fastpack BP 250 AW II.
It also comes with an external tripod holder and won’t break the bank. It has a rain cover and is big enough to hold three wide angle lenses, two camera bodies, and other small camera accessories.
If you are looking for even more space then the Lowepro Whistler BP 450 AW XL Pro Grade is for you. It’s the perfect choice for wildlife and adventurer photographers.
It can hold a pro DSLR (such as the Canon EOS-1DX Mark II or Nikon D4s), up to three lenses, external flashes, action cameras (such as GoPros), outdoor gear (such as ropes, binoculars and torches) and other personal items.
As a wildlife photographer, you should be able to walk or hike long distances freely, so a good camera backpack is just a must!

Tripod

A sturdy tripod is another must-have item for wildlife photographers. It’s especially useful if you are shooting under poor light conditions with very long shutter speeds.
There is no chance to get blur free images when using a shutter speed below 1/60s. Not even the calmest hands can manage that.
This is where a tripod comes in handy, to avoid camera shake during exposure. When using a slow shutter speed, even the slightest camera movement can cause blurriness.
As far as models go, I recommend the Manfrotto Traveler BeFree Tripod is for you. It’s a very steady all-round tripod, very compact and lightweight, and it has a beautiful design.
It’s suitable for both macro shots and for ground-level photos.
A tripod will allow you to get photos that you never could have otherwise. Before buying a tripod, you could also visit a local camera store to eye up different options. You might even be able to try them before purchase and see if they’ll do the job for you.

Filter

Filters not only protect the surface of your lens, but also help you get higher-quality images in difficult light conditions.
Choosing the right camera filter is not always easy. Here are a few types of filters useful for wildlife photography:

UV-Filter

Like all filters the UV-filter protects your lens from dirt, moisture, dust and scratches. They also block out unwanted UV light and reduce haziness in images taken in very bright sunny conditions. UV filters are also usually quite cheap.

Polarizing Filter

Polarizing filters are mainly used by landscape photographers to add more contrast to their images, reduce reflections and darken skies. They also increase overall colour saturation.
Another good reason to buy a polarizing filter if you’re shooting wildlife is that it will allow you to reduce the haziness in your images. Haze is something landscape photographers often have to deal with.

Neutral Density Filter

These filters are useful in really bright light conditions. They help prevent overexposure. ND filters are also helpful when the contrast between shadows and the highlighted areas is too great for a good quality shot.
Cheap neutral density filters often lead to ghosting. Be sure to buy a high-quality density filter to receive the best image possible.
Also, make sure you know the size of your lens before you buy a filter. Some filters are available in 52mm, 62mm, 72mm or 105mm.
You will usually find the needed filter size on the back of your lens cap. Your filter will also need to be cleaned every now and then. This will affect the image quality if your filter is dirty or full of fingerprints.

Tele-Converter

If you work with long focal lengths to photograph wild animals, a tele converter is another must have. The main idea behind a tele converter is that it will extend the focal lengths of your lens.
Tele converters come in different factors. These vary from 1.4x to 2x. For example, if you are using a 200mm prime lens combined with a tele converter that has a 2x multiplication factor, your 200mm lens will become a 400mm lens. If you combine a 200mm lens with a 1.4x tele converter you will get a focal length of 280mm.
So with a 1.4x tele converter you will get an extra focal length of 40%. And with a 2x tele converter you will double up your focal length. Pretty cool, right?
Yes it surely is! Tele converters unfortunately also have a few disadvantages.
Using a tele converter will automatically decrease the maximum aperture value of your lens. This means if you are using a 1.4x tele converter, you will lose one stop. If you use a 2x tele converter, you will lose two stops.
Also, tele converters generally tend to reduce the sharpness of your images. To avoid that, use high quality tele converters to still have a great overall image quality.
If you are a Canon user and want to double up your focal lengths, the Canon EF 2.0X III Tele Converter is a good choice.
For Nikon users I would recommend the Nikon Auto Focus-S FX TC-20E III tele converter. Like the Canon one, it’s capable of producing excellent sharpness.
When taking images of calm wild animals, a tele converter can be a very useful camera accessory. It will let you photograph subjects without disturbing them.

Spare Batteries

Imagine you are on a photo trip and you suddenly realise that you forgot to charge your batteries. That’s every photographer’s worst nightmare.
To avoid it, bring along an extra fully charged pack of batteries. If you’re shooting in the cold, this is doubly important as batteries tend to drain faster at lower temperatures.
Also, if your batteries are old, they hold less power. So plan for that as well.
I would recommend not buying cheap third-party batteries to save money. They might not be compatible with your camera body and could cause damage to your camera. And you risk losing your warranty.
So if you’re using a Canon camera, use Canon batteries. Same goes for the other brands, Nikon, Sony, etc.
Another great way to provide your camera with more power is to use battery grips.
Battery grips also provide more comfort, as it will be much easier to hold your camera. Some models even have small compartments to store memory cards or a remote shutter release.
For example, if you shoot with Canon, the Canon Battery Grip BG-E16 is a great choice if you want to double your shooting time.
For Nikon users, I would recommend buying the Nikon MB-D15.
With a battery grip you are on the safe side. You will have twice the battery life you usually have and won’t need to stop in the middle of a shoot to change batteries.

Binoculars

As an outdoor photographer, you should definitely invest in a pair of high quality binoculars.
When it comes to wildlife photography, these are a must for birding and wild animal observation.
I use them when I want to photograph an animal species that I haven’t photographed before. Staying in the background at first with my binoculars allows me to observe them and find out more about their behaviour.
Binoculars come in different magnifications, and all of them are identified by 2 numbers. So a 10×42 binocular will have a magnification power of 10. This means that the object of matter will appear 10 times closer than it would normally.
The second number refers to the diameter of the binocular lens. Binoculars with a larger diameter number allow more light to pass into the glass. The will appear much brighter, clearer and you will have a better viewing experience in total.
But mind that the larger the diameter number, the heavier the binocular will be.
For outdoor photographers I would recommend buying binoculars with a magnification power between 7x to 10x.
Make sure your binoculars are also waterproof. This way you’ll be able to observe animals under bad weather conditions like snow or rain.
Before buying binoculars online always check the reviews. These will help you decide on the best pair. Also, some binocular stores offer the option to test the binoculars before you buy them.
I would definitely recommend that. It’s a good way to make sure the binoculars fit your eyes right and are comfortable to use.
Here are a few binoculars that I would recommend.
From 50$ to 100$:
Wingspan Optics Spectator 8X32
Gosky 10×42 Compact HD
From 100$ to 300$:
Nikon 8252 ACULON A211 10-22×50 Zoom Binocular
Celestron 71332 Nature DX 8×42
Bushnell Legend Ultra HD M-Series 10x 42mm Binoculars
From 300$ to 600$:
Nikon 7548 MONARCH 7 8×42 Binocular
Vortex Optics Viper HD Roof 10×24 Prism Binocular
From 600$ to 1000$:
Nikon MONARCH HG 10X42
Swarovski CL Pocket 10×25 Binoculars Green

Rain Cover
There is no way around using a rain cover for your camera when the weather’s bad. Water can easily harm the electronics of your camera. A cover will protect your gear from rain, snow, fog or other humidity and atmospheric influences that mother nature throws at you!
For photographers who use tele lenses, I would recommend the LensCoat® RainCoat 2 Pro. This provides perfect protection for your camera and your tele lens, not only from rain and snow, but also from sand, dirt, dust and salt.
The LensCoat® RainCoat 2 Pro is very easy to fit on your camera. You will still be able to access to the camera and lens controls.
It is built for lenses ranging from 200mm to 400mm focal lengths.
If you’re on a tighter budget, I would recommend the OP/TECH rainsleeve. It is very cheap and fits lenses up to 18″ L x 7″ diameter.
Photo Blind
Wildlife photography can be quite challenging. As a wildlife photographer I know how hard it is to approach wild animals. I also know that it can also be very rewarding once you get that shot you’ve been dreaming of.
How close you can get to the animals always depends on the certain species you want to photograph. Some wild animals tolerate the presence of humans while others don’t.
Using a photo blind will definitely increase the chances of getting close to wild animals. It’s especially god for photographing shy animals. It allows you to become invisible to them.
Also if you’re photographing endangered species, a photo blind is necessary to avoid disturbing them.
Photo blinds typically have a camouflage pattern. This way you can blend in better with the wildlife that surrounds you. They also have gaps and windows where you can stick out your lens.
Some photo blinds provide more space than others, and those are usually more expensive. Having more space does mean more comfort, or even the possibility to share with another photographer.
I personally use the B.I.G. Bird Watching photo blind. It’s really easy to set up and you can use it under different weather conditions as it’s made out of high quality waterproof material.
It’s not too expensive either and has everything you could need to get close to wild animals.

Additional Memory Cards

I would recommend every photographer always bring along additional memory cards. Just to have enough storage space in case your other memory cards are full.
Memory cards often have limited capacity. If you are shooting in RAW, I would definitely recommend buying a memory card with at least 32GB storage space.
Always find out first which format your camera requires before buying a memory card. The most usual memory card format is SD (Secure Digital). Less common memory cards are CompactFlash cards, CFast cards and XQD cards.
Also, don’t buy a memory card with huge capacity like 64GB. I would recommend buying two 32GB memory cards. Just imagine having bought a 64GB memory card that you lose on a photo trip.
If you own a lot of memory cards, a memory card wallet can be a great way to store all of them.

This list of accessories can go on and on. There’s many things that a wildlife photographer needs and as you take more and more pictures of animals, you’ll start figuring out what YOU need.
But these 10 accessories are a must-have for any beginner. And they will cover most of your needs as a wildlife photographer even as you get more advanced.
They’ll help you improve the quality of your pictures, save your spine, and allow you to approach those skittish animals.
In short – these items will make your life easier as a wildlife photographer.

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FREE Quick Guide to Wildlife Photography

Download Your Free Guide Now →

In the field of wildlife photography there are common techniques, and suggestions, that would apply to any type of animal that you want to photograph.

And that is what this week’s FREE quick guide is all about.

“Wildlife Photography- A Primer” is meant to give you the information that you need to get started creating a stunning wildlife portfolio.

Here is what you’ll learn in this FREE guide-

• The importance of preparation, research, and patience
• Equipment selection (you don’t necessarily need a super telephoto lens)
• Camera settings to achieve optimum quality
• What a ‘blind’ is and how to use one
• The importance of your clothing
• Whether to use a flash- or not
• How to protect your gear against the elements

This guide, by Kent DuFault, also includes critiques of existing wildlife images, so that you can learn from the mistakes, and accomplishments, of others.

Powerful Stuff!

Image Credit : Vinoth Chandar

Download Your Free Guide Now →

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