Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images)

By: Matt Murray

When I first bought a Fujifilm Finepix X100 in 2012, I was absolutely stunned by the quality of the images it produced. As the first iteration in Fujifilm’s lineup of excellent fixed-lens compact cameras, it paved the way for the rest of the X-series lineup with its excellent optics and fantastic usability.
What impressed me the most, perhaps, was the quality of the JPGs that the camera produced – they were lightyears ahead of anything I’d seen with other camera systems.
In this article, I will introduce you to the commonly available Fujifilm JPG film simulations, including the characteristics of each one and when you might like to use them.

I still have an X100 – but this is the latest iteration in the series, the X100F.

Fujifilm history of film

Fujifilm has been a leader in the photographic industry for decades. Not only are they world leaders in optics, but they are also the biggest producer of instant film and cameras left in the market.
In the heyday of film, they were also one of the leading brands for the production of 35mm and 120 films, making film emulsions loved by photographers everywhere. Some of these famous film stocks (Acros and Fuji Pro 400 H) still exist.
Fujifilm took their color science know-how from the film days and created a range of film simulations for their digital cameras that feature a very high level of color accuracy and reproduction.

You can easily choose the Fujifilm film simulations via a button on the back of X-Series camera bodies.

Do all cameras have all Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

No, the Fujifilm JPG film simulations available to your X-Series camera depend on the model and the firmware updates you have applied. Although the number of film simulations has grown over the years with the release of new generations of cameras and sensors, new film simulations don’t always roll out to older model cameras.
For example, it is rumored that the newest film simulation launched with the X-Pro 3 – Classic Negative – will be rolled out to cameras, including the X-T3 and X-T30, very soon via a firmware update.
This is part of Fujifilm’s ongoing improvements they make to their cameras and lenses.

How can I shoot with Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

First of all, you’ll need an X-Series camera body. Next, you need to set it up to shoot JPGs.
When you do this, the default setting to shoot with is the Provia film simulation. This setting will be applied to all the JPGs produced until you change it. You can easily do that via a button on the back of your camera body, where you can cycle through all available options.
It’s fun to change the film simulations to see what different effects they give you. Another reason why I love mirrorless cameras is that you can even see the effect each film simulation will have through the viewfinder and on the LCD screen – very helpful.
Can I change the film simulation after I’ve shot a JPG?
No, once you shoot the JPG with that film simulation, you can’t change it. So if you’re only shooting JPGs, make sure you’ve selected one that will complement your subject, or shoot JPG+RAW.

You can even convert RAW images to JPG with Fujifilm JPG film simulations in-camera, but that’s 

a topic for another day.

Can I apply a Fujifilm JPG film simulation if I shoot RAW?

Yes, there are a couple of different ways you can do this after you have taken an image. The first is using software such as Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. The second is by applying the simulation to a RAW file in the camera after you’ve taken it. This is something that often surprises X-Series users. Yes, you can actually process your RAW files as different film simulations in-camera.

Introduction to the Fujifilm JPG film simulations

Provia

Provia was the name of Fujifilm’s most popular color transparency (slide) film. With its medium contrast and saturation, this is the most neutral film simulation and is suited to most genres of photography. It’s the default film simulation on X-Series cameras and is also labeled as “standard” in the menu.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Provia JPG. There are some noticeable differences over the 

RAW file, such as higher contrast and more saturation.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Provia JPG.

Velvia

Velvia was the nature photographer’s go-to film back in the film heyday. It’s bold colors brought to life the natural world. Velvia’s high contrast and high saturation make it a winning formula for wildlife and landscapes, though it’s one to avoid for portraits.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Velvia JPG. Velvia is showing its rich colors here, with both 

the greens and the blues highly saturated.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Velvia JPG. Skin tones look too saturated and unnatural, 

so this is best avoided for portraits.

Astia

This is another simulation named after a slide film, in this case, the film that was very popular among portrait and fashion photographers. Astia is known for its softer colors and contrast, giving a more subdued look overall with beautiful tones. I quite often use this simulation for shooting portraits.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Astia JPG. Great tones and colors, though slightly subdued.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Asita JPG. Lovely colors and tones, though they are not 

over the top.

Classic Chrome

This Fujifilm JPG film simulation is not based on a classic film emulsion. Instead, Fujifilm developed it to emulate the look of classic documentary-style photography.
Classic Chrome has lower color saturation and full-bodied tones, giving it a distinctive look. Skies look different with this simulation, as it removes magenta. Reds and greens also appear quite unique.
Many street photographers seem to use this film simulation if they are shooting color for a raw, edgier look.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Classic Chrome JPG. Look at the difference between the sky 

and the grass in these shots.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Classic Chrome JPG.

Pro Neg Hi

Pro Neg Hi is ideal for portraits with slightly enhanced contrast, especially when contrasted against Pro Neg Standard. Modeled after Fujifilm’s most popular print film for portraits, Fuji Pro 400H, it’s the film simulation I most use for portraits (alongside Astia).

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg High JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Hi JPG. I love the colors, contrast, and tones of this 

film simulation.

Pro Neg Std

This is another of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations that is ideal for portraits. It simulates NS160, a professional color negative film for studio portraiture. It has softer graduations and skin tones, especially when compared to Pro Neg High.
For best results, use it with creative lighting choices, or you may end up with a flat, boring-looking image.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg Standard JPG. The tonality of this image is quite soft 

compared to others.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Std JPG. Out of the box, it produces a flatter file 

with softer colors and tonality.

Acros

Fujifilm’s classic black and white emulsion brought to life digitally with rich details and excellent sharpness. Fujifilm claims that this film simulation matches the tonal range and even the film grain of its analog offering, which is quite impressive.
You even have the ability with the Acros film simulation to apply yellow, red, and green filters in-camera.
The red filter gives more contrast and a dramatic feel. The yellow filter seems more subtle. The green filters seem to work best when photographing people.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Acros JPG.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the red filter. Red filters have long been used in 

black and white photography to increase contrast and make images look more dramatic.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the green filter.

Monochrome

This was the original black and white Fujifilm JPG film simulation on X-Series cameras until Acros came along. Many people bypass it completely, choosing to create black and white images in post.
As with Acros, there are three variants for this mode; you can add a red, yellow, or green filter.

Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Monochrome JPG.

Sepia

Sepia gives your image a reddish-brown look to mimic the feel of a vintage photo. I’m not sure why anyone would use this filter, but each to their own.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Sepia JPG.

I hope you have enjoyed this introduction to the world of Fujifilm JPG film simulations. Fujifilm produces the best straight-out-of-camera JPGs from any camera manufacturer. The ability to choose a Fujifilm JPG film simulation, many based on classic film emulsions, is the icing on the cake.
I’ve loved playing around with different looks to my images over the years. The ability to see through the viewfinder or LCD is incredible.
Which is your favorite of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations? Share with us in the comments.

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5 Easy Studio Setups With One Light

By: John McIntire

Studio lighting is one of the most versatile tool sets available to you as a photographer. Apart from 24 hour access to a quality light source, there is a vast quantity of modifiers, accessories, and techniques that allow you to design and shape the light exactly as you need to fulfil your creative vision. However, all of this choice that is available to you can often result in confusion and indecision. The sheer amount of stuff available can also lead you to believe you need more than you already have.
Fortunately, in the case of lighting, less is often really more. In this tutorial I am going demonstrate five ways to use a single light source to good effect, with a variety of subjects. Even though each of these images was created with a specific modifier, each setup will work with most any modifier of your choice. For example, you could swap a softbox for a beauty dish. This will alter the shape and softness of the light but you will still get good results. Some of the techniques also use a silver reflector.
If you don’t have a reflector, you can get a large piece of cardboard and glue a sheet of aluminium foil to it. Another option is to use a mirror. You don’t even need a strobe or flash to make these techniques work; window light, with a bit of extra effort can produce the same effects.
Here are five easy studio setups with one light you can try yourself.

Setup #1

Simplicity in technique is the aim of this first image. The light source is a strobe fitted with a medium sized softbox. It is positioned about five feet away from the subject, elevated about four feet above, and pointed down at a 45 degree angle. The camera is directly under the softbox (this is called Butterfly lighting).

Lighting diagram for light placement

The centre of the softbox is pointed to the left of the model (camera right) with only the edge of the light source directly falling on her. This technique is called feathering. It is useful for controlling and fine-tuning the light in a scene, and helps to soften light from a harder modifier such as an 110 degree reflector.
If you don’t think you’re ready to try feathering just yet, try to aim your light source at your subject’s nose instead.

Setup #2

To create dramatic lighting in your photos, try lighting your subject from behind. This image of my dog is lit by a softbox placed at a 45 degree angle behind her at camera left. The softbox is just out of the left-hand side of the frame and is very close to the subject. Because she is black and white, there is a huge amount of contrast in the scene. This left the shadow areas closest to the camera very dark. To fix this, you would introduce a reflector. The reflector is also only just out of the frame on the right-hand side. Bringing it in close allows you to increase the amount of reflected light filling in the dark shadows.

Setup #3

For added versatility, you can combine the previous two techniques. This image is again lit by a softbox six feet behind the pastry and elevated about five feet above. Instead of pointing the light source at the pastry, it is aimed straight ahead so that the softbox is not directly illuminating the subject. This is a more extreme version of feathering that creates beautifully soft light.

When you feather the light in this way, be aware that you are lighting the scene with a only a tiny fraction of your flash’s output. You will need to compensate by altering your ISO, increasing the flashes power output or altering your aperture.
To fill in the shadows created by the backlighting, use your silver reflector.

Setup #4

If you want to create images with more contrast in your light than a softbox provides, try using a silver beauty dish. The light source in this photo is slightly to the right of the camera and is three feet away from the subject. The bottom edge of the beauty dish is lined up with the top of the model’s head, again creating the feathering effect. To fill in the shadows, ask your model to hold the reflector pointed towards her chin and just out of the frame.

Setup #5

If you prefer really soft light, you need to increase the size of your light source in relation to your subject. The obvious ways to do this are to move your light source closer to your subject, or to use a bigger modifier.
Alternatively, you can bounce your light into a wall or a ceiling, converting that surface into your light source.
To imitate the lighting in this image, fit your light source with a bare reflector and point it into the corner of a room. Be wary of off-coloured walls though; the slightest deviation from white can cause colour casts in your images that take a lot of time to correct. If you’re shooting black and white, then colour casts are irrelevant and you can bounce your light from just about any surface you can imagine.

As you can see, you don’t need piles of equipment to get the most out of the studio. A single strobe, a modifier or two, and a reflector will provide you limitless creative opportunities for your photography. Go ahead and alter these suggestions to suit your needs and style and don’t be afraid to experiment, there really are an infinite number ways to use this modest amount of equipment. 

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6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits

By: Dennis Drenner 

I’ve been making my living as a photographer for over 20 years, and have accumulated thousands of dollars of gear over time. I have the latest Canon SLRs, a full complement of lenses, strobes, light stands, gels, filters, soft boxes, tripods, and even some video and audio gear. But the one thing that often makes the biggest difference in the quality of my portraits is a simple $20 reflector. I never leave home without it and neither should you.
When shooting outdoor portraits, the first thing many photographers think about is the background, but the pros consider the quality of the light first and foremost. They know, for example, that a portrait with nasty overhead lighting is not going to work, no matter how cool the background.

A reflector can help you salvage bad light, and turn okay light into something magical. You can use your reflector from below to fill in shadows, or from above to block distracting light. You can bounce the sun from the silver reflector to create a main light, or you can use a reflector with a black side to create deeper shadows. You can even sit on your reflector to keep your pants clean when shooting outside, or pop it open dramatically to dazzle young children.
Most of the photos in this article were shot with a 5-in-1 reflector you can buy for less than $20. 5-in-1 refers to the fact that the reflector and cover can combine to give you five different options: white, silver, gold, and black sides, as well as a diffuser.
Here are 6 tips to help you use this versatile tool, a reflector, to transform your photos.

1. Using a Reflector for Fill Light

The most traditional use of the reflector is to simply reflect light into the shadows. I took my wife Karen out into our local park to demonstrate this.

In the photo on the left (above), she is photographed in nice soft light, but there are still pretty deep shadows under her eyes and chin. In the photo on the right, she is holding a reflector at her waist. The shadows on her face are noticeably lighter and there is a subtle catch-light (reflection of the reflector) in her eyes. If she were an older person with more textured skin, the contrast would be even more dramatic.

Of course, you may not always want to fill in the shadows in this way, but if you are trying to flatter someone it almost always helps. You don’t even need an official photo reflector. Anything that reflects light will work. In a pinch I’ve used everything from old newspapers to a nearby person wearing a white shirt.

2. Using a Reflector as the Main Light Source

This is one of my go-to reflector moves, and an easy way to wow your friends and family. You place your subject with the light hitting them from behind, then use a reflector to bounce the light back into their face. You will get nice soft light on their face, with a dramatic rim light on the back of the subject’s head. The only trick is positioning yourself so the light doesn’t go straight into your lens and create lens flare (unless you like that look, of course).

In the photo above the is sun hitting the left side of her face and arm. The light from a reflector is bouncing back some of the sun to light up her face.
You may also notice the shallow depth of field in this photo. If you are lighting with a reflector, you can jack up your shutter speed as much as you like to allow for a wide aperture (this photo was shot at 1/1250th of a second at f/2.0, with a 50mm lens). If you were using flash to create this same effect, you would have to lower your shutter speed (to 1/250th or whatever matches your camera’s maximum) to sync with the flash, requiring a larger aperture and greater depth of field (killing the whole look).
Yes, yes, some of you are no doubt thinking, “What about high speed sync?!” Well, yes, that could give you the same effect if you had the right equipment (and know how to do that). Or, you know, you could just use an old newspaper.

In the next example above, we positioned Karen against a tree and had her cousin Claudia reflect a spot of sunlight on her from about 10 feet away. At this distance, the light from the reflector looks more like it is coming from a grid spot or snoot (hard light) – in other words, it’s a focused and dramatic beam (notice the fall-off of light on her legs). It’s a cool look that you can recreate with a reflector, a few feet of aluminum foil, or your bathroom mirror. Your friends will be wowed, and ask what fancy gear you used for the shot (and your family will ask what happened to the bathroom mirror).
Using a slight variation of this technique, we moved the reflector slightly behind the subject (relative to the camera) to created a dramatic rim light on the face in a profile shot (see below).

3. Using a Reflector to Block Light

Sometimes you’ll find yourself in some beautiful shady light under a tree, except for that pesky sunbeam that finds its way through the leaves to light up your subject’s left ear. When this happens, turn your reflector into a light blocker (sometimes called a flag or gobo).
A few years ago, I was doing a maternity portrait in a local park, when a newspaper photographer snapped my picture using just this technique. If you look at the reflector, you can see the bright spots of sunlight that it’s blocking (imagine how those spots would have ruined the final image if we didn’t block them).

4. Using a Black Reflector to Create More Dramatic Shadows

Sometimes you actually want to deepen the shadows. I use this technique all the time in my headshot studio. Below is a photo of me with a white background. In one shot, I have a silver reflector opposite the main light, sending light back towards my left cheek. In the other, the reflector has a black cover on it, gobbling up reflected light, leaving a dark shadow on the cheek.


Except for the small change of literally flipping the reflector from one side to the other, the lighting setup is identical, but as you can see the difference is pretty dramatic. (For you studio lighting enthusiasts out there, my key light here is a large soft box, and there are two bare heads pointing at the background to make sure it is nice and bright white).
This is the same technique used in the famous Steve Jobs portrait where he has his hand on his chin. In addition to creating a little drama, you can also use this technique to give someone a photographic face-lift by trimming pounds from the dark side of their face and under their chin.

5. Who Holds the Reflector?

You may be saying to yourself, “But, I don’t have an assistant! Who’s going to hold the reflector for me?”. I usually don’t have an assistant either, but there is usually someone nearby who is more than happy to help, be it a family member, passerby, intern, wedding guest, etc. Sometimes you can even have the subject of the photo hold the reflector themselves (as in the photo of my wife holding the reflector at her waist in the photo above). Of course if you’re in the studio, or outside on a day without too much wind, you can just pop your reflector onto a light stand (like in the studio shots of me above).
In the photo below, I was shooting wedding portraits on a beach in the Florida Keys. My reflector assistant that day was one of the bridesmaids, who truly enjoyed helping her friends out with their portraits.

6. Reflectors in the Environment

Once you get the hang of reflectors, you’ll probably start noticing reflected light everywhere. Ever see a white building getting blasted by the sun? Well that’s nothing but a giant reflector! Depending on what’s around it, you may have found yourself a giant studio, with no rental fee.
Mind you, anything that reflects enough light can work as a reflector. A brick building, large truck, flock of seagulls flying by at just the right moment…

Final Notes

Although they may not be as sexy as strobe kits, reflectors can often yield similar, or superior results for your portraits, and are cheaper and easier to use. I will leave you with a few more assignment photos, shot using nothing more than a reflector.
In the child portraits below, note that there is light behind the kids in both cases, but there is still beautiful light on their faces. Same goes for the athlete portraits.


As a final image, I leave you with a group of wedding guests who were so enamoured of my reflector that they wanted a picture with it. Hopefully you will soon have similar feelings towards your own reflector!

Do you have any additional reflector tips to add? Please do so in the comments below.

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5 Ways to Capture More Diverse Landscape Photos

By: Jeremy Flint  

One of the most challenging things with landscape photography is to capture images that stand out. Planning to get to a destination at the right time is the easy part, and usually requires minimal effort. So when you have arrived at your location, how do you go about capturing more diverse landscape photos?
Well, there are several ways to represent greater diversity in your landscape images. Read on to discover how to make your landscape photos more interesting.

1. Minimalist scene

1/400 sec at f/11, Canon 5D Mark IV, 70-200mm f/2.8 lens

The first thing to consider when you are out in nature doing landscape photography is to decide what you are going to capture.
You may decide to photograph the entire view of the beautiful scenery in front of you. However, while executing a wide-angle shot of everything in the scene is a great way to start, why not try simplifying a scene to make it stand out.

Take a moment to think about what is actually appealing about the landscape. Are there any interesting features on show? What elements help to make the landscape look stunning? Is there an attractive outbuilding or a tree, for example?
I find limiting the number of components in a scene helps to convey the spirit of a place more fluently. Try adopting a “less is more approach” and bring certain elements together, such as a visually enticing cloud formation or evocative mist floating over an alluring landscape. The natural light and components within a scene can play an important part in the overall composition and look of your final image.

2. Extract patterns

1/100 sec at f/11, Canon 5D Mark IV, 70-200mm f/2.8 lens

Have you ever felt your landscape images are overly complicated or lack impact?
Another great technique to capture more diverse landscape photos that depict a location in a better way is to draw out patterns or details within the environment.
One method to do this is to shoot with a long lens from afar and compress the perspective to reduce the sense of space. A long lens helps to focus on capturing a certain part of the landscape, bringing near and far objects closer together and emphasizing shapes and patterns more effectively. An example of this may be to capture an attractive building with a field.

3. Aerial views

When looking to capture diverse landscape photos, a great way to alter the perspective of your shots is to vary your viewpoint. Shooting from a high viewpoint provides a great way to capture scenes from an angle that people may not normally see. This can be a good strategy to photograph something new and develop some creative landscape photography.
Elevated views can help to flatten the perspective of your image as it eliminates distance indicators. You can reduce the amount of sky in your photos and concentrate on creating images with interesting shapes. You can achieve aerial views by walking up to a higher vantage point, or shooting from a plane or hot-air balloon, for example.

1/180 sec at f/11, Canon 5D SR, 24-70mm f/2.8 lens

4. Shoot in overcast conditions

Don’t limit your landscape photography to sunny days or only wait for perfect light to appear, you can achieve diverse landscape photos in all weathers.
Capturing a scene in overcast conditions can lead to particularly striking results. The flat lighting will remove shadows and help to simplify a scene. Also, the reduced contrast will help to provide a simpler and more minimalist composition.
Overcast skies provide beautiful diffused light that can be really appealing for landscape photography.

5. Shoot fleeting light

Working with light can be a great way to capture remarkable images. With the right amount of light and cloud, you can convert a dull scene into a special scene, taking your photos to the next level.
For example, after a storm has passed, interesting light can transform a photo of the landscape into something incredible. This is especially so where the sun paints the land with magical pockets of light.
The precise combination of light, sky, and atmosphere can be blended to create an incomparable beauty within a frame.

1/320 sec at f/8, Canon 5D Mark IV, 24-70mm f/2.8 lens

Following a rain shower, keep a lookout for rainbows, as they provide an extraordinary addition to your pictures and help them to stand out. Remember to ensure your gear is kept dry during any rain too. That way, your camera will work well when capturing these great lighting moments after the rain has stopped.

In summary, you can capture more diverse landscape photos by applying a few important techniques. Go for a minimalist look by focussing on attractive elements within the landscape, and extract patterns by using a long lens to compress the perspective.
Shoot from above, shoot in overcast conditions, and capture momentary light and rainbows for more varied landscape images.
Apply these techniques next time you are out with your camera photographing the landscape and share your pictures with us below.
Do you have any other tips for capturing more diverse landscape photos? Share them with us also.

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