How to Use Textures to Enhance Your Photographs

In this post Patrick Dean from NeutralDay.comexplores how to use Textures to enhance an image.

If you’ve spent anytime at all exploring sites like Flickr, I’m sure you’ve notice a good many photographs that have a certain “vintage” look to them, a patina if you will. There are many variations to this theme, ranging from simple toning to full blown distressing of the photograph complete with film like grain or scratches and surface variation resembling an old or imperfect photo. Up till now you might have thought that achieving this look was difficult and time consuming, but in fact it is remarkably easy, and it is done using textures.

What exactly is a texture? The term texture when used in photoshop refers to an image that is used  on top of your own image that when adjusted via blend modes or opacity imparts a “texture” on your image. The “texture” doesn’t have to be of a physical texture, in fact it could be nearly anything, including another photo. Generally however textures will be photographs or scans of old pieces of paper, fabric, a hand written letter, etc. But it could be a image of clouds, rain drops on a windshield, a bokeh pattern, bubbles, water reflections, and on and on. That’s the beauty of using textures, they could be anything and combined infinitely to create a wide range of different looks.

Of course this variation makes it seem a bit more confusing than it is, but to clear up any confusion I’ve provided a walk through on how to use a couple of textures that make a good photo into a very interesting photo. It’s easy to overdo textures, and I prefer to not stray to far from my original material, but you could take this is as far as you want with as many textures as you want.
For this we’ll be using Photoshop CS4 (any version will do, including Elements), an original image, and a couple of textures. To acquire your own textures you can scan or photograph your own, or alternatively, check out sources like flickr or deviantArt for literally thousands of free textures that you can use in your work. In this case I used a paper texture similar to this one (via flickr member: Feodora Umarov), and a bokeh texture available here  (via flickr member: laughlinc). Both are free to use as textures in your work under the creative commons license, but by all means browse around for further possibilities.

The Original Image

I picked this image because of the brooding mood of the subject and ample negative space. I really like the photo and the out of focus quality present, but it could use a little “enhancement”

Step 1

Open up your original image in Photoshop.

Step 2

Open up your texture file in Photoshop. Here’s mine, an old piece of scanned paper. You should now have 2 files open in Photoshop. Drag the texture file onto your original image file to add it as a layer. For CS4 users, drag the texture layer to the original image tab (if you’re using the tabs), until the original image is displayed, then let the texture file go on the original image to add it as a layer.

Step 3

Re-size the texture layer so that it covers your original image entirely. With the texture layer highlighted in the layers palette, use the shortcut command/control T to resize the texture layer. Press “return/enter” to finalize your resize.

Step 4

This is where the magic happens. We’re going to change the blend mode of the layer in the layers palette. Blend modes change how one layer interacts with the layer/s below it. In this case we’ll start with multiply.

Step 5

Notice right away we’ve produced a more vintage feel to the image. This could easily be one direction to go, but lets try another blend mode.

Step 6

?
Overlay helps to lighten the image, and though it’s too bright, I like this direction even more. The beauty of layers is that we can adjust their opacity and their positions.

Step 7

In this step I’ve duplicated the original (background layer). I’ll use this layer as a “texture” as well, in part to help tone down the final results. Move the original texture down so that it sits between the background copies.

Step 8

The result of the duplicated background layer placed on top of the paper texture and set to soft light blend mode at 84% opacity. There’s no science here, the fun part is experimenting with opacity and blend modes, and even layer order. But really all I’ve done is add one texture and change a blend mode and already it’s made a nice change. You could stop here, but let’s add one more texture.

Step 9

Open up your additional texture (I’m using a bokeh pattern here) and add to your layers by dragging it onto your original image.

Step 10

Here I’ve moved down below the background copy layer and the first texture layer. The blend mode has been changed to overlay with a 33% opacity. Again, this is the fun part so be sure to try all the various blend modes to get the look you desire.

Step 11

The hard part is done, now just some tweaking to dial in the look we’re going for. Here I’ve added a color balance adjustment layer in order to get the red/yellow tones I’m looking for.

Step 12

In this step I’ve added a couple of hue/saturation adjustment layers. One to address the excessive yellow, and one to lighten up the image.

Step 13

The final image. It has a wonderful tone and atmospheric quality to it, and I like the overall feel much better than the original. As I said before, it’s easy to go too far, but you can always go back into the layers palette and dial down the opacity of the various layers till you get the right “balance”. What’s great about textures is the final result looks more significant than the actual process. It’s not for every image, but the simple process of using textures can add some big impact to your work.
Patrick Dean is a photographer, graphic designer and editor of the photography news and reviews website NeutralDay.com

DIY: How to Create a Coffee-Stained Texture for Aging Images in Photoshop

By: Megan Kennedy 

As a kid, I remember coffee-staining scrap paper to create ancient maps that marked out treasure in the backyard. Nowadays, I’ve discovered that the same process can be great for photography projects too. With help from Photoshop, experimenting with textural layers is a great way to introduce an aged look to your images. But sometimes it can be hard to get a hold of quality textures on the internet. That’s where a bit of DIY comes in. By making your own coffee-stained texture, you can create seemingly aged canvases, which can then be applied to your images.

What you’ll need:

• 1/4 cup of instant coffee granules
• 1 teaspoon
• a damp cloth, sponge or paper towel
• a few pieces of white paper (I use plain old sheets of A4 copy paper. While copy paper does pucker when water is introduced to it, I think it adds to the overall aged effect. Plus, it’s less expensive than good art paper!)

How to coffee-stain paper

1. First, lay out your sheets of paper on a wipeable surface. I prefer to work on the kitchen bench.
2. Sprinkle some instant coffee on your sheets of paper – about a teaspoon per sheet.
3. With a damp cloth, sponge or paper towel, begin to press the instant coffee granules into the paper. As the coffee moistens, you can start to spread the granules around the paper with broader strokes. The more varied the strokes, the rougher the effect will be.
4. You can add more coffee and a little water if you need it. The more coffee you add, the darker the coffee-stained paper will turn out. You can even leave some partially-dissolved coffee granules on the page.
5. Once you coat the paper, place the sheets somewhere safe and leave them to dry for a few hours.
6. Sometimes the drying process can lighten the stained effect somewhat. If this happens, add more coffee and water to darken the paper further.

Here’s my result:

How to apply coffee-stained textures in Photoshop

Once your coffee-stained paper is dry, scan or photograph the page/s and save the files somewhere handy on your computer.
Next, open an image in Photoshop. This will be the image we’ll apply the coffee-stained texture to. I went with the image below:

1/100 of a second f/4.5 ISO 100

With your chosen image open, add a Black & White Adjustment Layer by clicking the Black & White icon in the Adjustments panel (the names of the icons appear when you rest your mouse on them).
If you can’t see the Adjustments panel, select Window from the top toolbar and then click on Adjustments. The Black & White Adjustment Layer will non-destructively convert your image to black and white.


Toggle the Black & White Adjustment Layer settings until you are satisfied with your image.
Next, with the Black & White Adjustment Layer selected in the Layers panel, click File from the top toolbar. Then select Place… and locate and select the coffee-stained image file.
The coffee-stained texture layer will be imported over your original image.

If needed, adjust the dimensions of the coffee-stained image by dragging its corners to completely cover the entirety of the canvas.
With the coffee-stained texture selected in the Layers panel, click on the Blending Modes drop-down menu located within the layers panel. Set the Blending Mode to either Overlay or Soft Light. Overlay is a bit harsher in contrast than Soft Light, so test out both options before settling on one.


Next, select the coffee-stained texture layer and click on the Curves icon in the Adjustment Layers panel. Adjust the Curves settings until you are happy with the overall contrast of your image.

At this point, you can refine the Black & White Adjustment Layer further or even add additional coffee-stained layers to increase the intensity of the aged effect.
This is my finished result…

Here are two more images I’ve attempted to age a little with the same method…


What do you think? Up for a cuppa? If you’ve given the coffee-stained texture method a try, be sure to share your results in the comments!

Share this article.

Viral video - Cell phone video, Inspiration for you videographers considering a topic for your next project.  6,269,000 views on Facebook. Your video may receive more. 
You want to make your own cell phone movie, but don't know where to start?  Where do you find a good clamp clip tripod?


Try this link:https://bit.ly/31Y7Obh
...then post your video on social media.

DSLRs Aren’t Dead Just Yet!

By: Simon Ringsmuth  

In the past few years, traditional DSLR cameras have started to cede significant market share to mirrorless cameras. This newer style of camera has risen from obscurity to mainstream in the last decade. Recent trends indicate that this is no mere blip on the radar. Sony, Fuji, and now Canon and Nikon have all jumped into the mirrorless market with a growing collection of cameras and lenses that show no sign of slowing down. However, just because many think mirrorless is the way of the future doesn’t mean the end of DSLRs. Contrary to what you might think, DSLRs aren’t dead!

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/2, ISO 2000, 1/350 second

The mirrorless vs. DSLR debate has been going for years, but thinking of the situation in binary terms is a bit misguided. It doesn’t have to be an either/or dichotomy. In fact, there is plenty of room in the photography community for both types of cameras.
In the same way that film offers some advantages over digital, traditional DSLRs have a few tricks up their sleeves that make them uniquely relevant even in this age of modern mirrorless models.
Before I get too deep into the content of this piece, I want to make one thing clear: I’m not advocating that one type of camera is better than the other. Both types of cameras have strengths and weaknesses.
Just because you might prefer one or the other does not make you a good or bad photographer! Cameras are tools to get a job done. All I’m saying here is that DSLRs aren’t dead and still have plenty of advantages to offer.

Mirrorless cameras like this Fuji X100F have a lot of advantages. but sometimes a DSLR is the 

right tool for the job. Nikon D750, 85mm, f/2, ISO 640, 1/200 second.

Optical viewfinder

Mirrorless cameras have electronic viewfinders, which give them the ability to do things you simply can’t get with an optical viewfinder. That doesn’t mean that optical viewfinders, which are found on all DSLRs, have nothing to offer by comparison. Far from it! Optical viewfinders might not show you the exposure of your image in realtime, but they do give you a perfectly clear view of the scene you are shooting.

Nikon D7100, 85mm, f/2.8, ISO 100, 1/1000 second

Electronic viewfinders are composed of individual dots, or pixels, just like the images captured by all digital cameras. They are like looking at a very tiny, very high-resolution TV screen. As a result, they share some of the same limitations as those screens.
Pixel density, refresh rates, color accuracy, and dynamic range are still issues in a lot of mirrorless cameras. These are getting better, but all electronic viewfinders show a digital representation of the real world which does have some limitations.
Optical viewfinders have none of these issues. They show the real world without translating it to pixels. The display won’t slow down or get choppy depending on lighting conditions or how fast you pan the camera. You don’t need to worry about color accuracy with an optical viewfinder because what you see is exactly what the world looks like.

Power consumption is always going to be better with optical viewfinders because they consume no power at all. This means you can compose your shots without even turning your camera on. While mirrorless cameras have dramatically improved in this regard, DSLRs aren’t dead and still have an advantage in this area.

Lens selection

Companies like Sony and Fuji have a solid lineup of mirrorless cameras and lenses that they have been building for several years. Canon and Nikon will get there too with their mirrorless R and Z lenses. But in the meantime, traditional DSLRs are still the king of this particular hill.
Again, that’s not to say they are better! Just that DSLRs aren’t dead and well worth considering for many photographers today.

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/2.9, ISO 100, 1/1500 second

Canon and Nikon both have decades of lenses for their DSLR cameras, with Nikon’s reaching all the way back to 1959 when the first F-mount camera was released. Pentax, Canon, and others have massive lens catalogs as well, which means that if you buy a DSLR today, you immediately have access to a massive array of lenses. Older ones might lack autofocus or stabilization, but they are a lot cheaper and a great way to expand your photographic horizons.
All mirrorless cameras can use older lenses with adapters. It’s not as though a Sony A7IV or Canon Eos R is limited to a paltry selection of just the most recent lenses. But adapters are one more thing to buy and carry around, and sometimes features like autofocus are limited when working with adapters. If you want access to the widest array of native glass possible, DSLRs are still the way to go.

Size

Mirrorless cameras, by their very definition, are smaller in size than DSLRs because they don’t need to accommodate a flip-up mirror. That means they can be a lot slimmer and more compact, which a lot of people like.
On the flip side, one of the reasons DSLRs aren’t dead yet is because they appeal to people who like a bigger, chunkier camera.

The Nikon D750. EXIF: Canon Rebel Ti, 22mm, f/2.5, ISO 100, 1/250 second

The larger size of DSLRs means they often have bigger buttons, larger hand grips, and feel more substantial when shooting with them. None of this affects picture quality, but these traits do matter to many people who prefer a more robust, tactile approach when they shoot photos. Some actually prefer the larger size of a traditional DSLR, especially with a battery grip attached, because they feel more solid and substantial in the hand.
The size of traditional DSLRs is particularly important if you shoot with larger lenses, like a 70-200 f/2.8. Or even a walkaround zoom lens like an 18-270mm. The added camera weight serves to balance out the heavy lens and make the shooting experience a little easier than a small mirrorless camera.

Legacy

It’s easy to get caught up in the internet chatter about mirrorless cameras. There’s no doubt they are the way of the future. Also, seemingly, every photography-based blog and YouTube channel is filled with discussion about the latest mirrorless camera technology. It’s enough to make you think that if you prefer a DSLR you must be some kind of out-of-touch caveman.

The Nikon D750. Exif: Canon Rebel Ti, 21mm, f/5.6, ISO 100, 1/100 second

One of the big selling points of a traditional DSLR is precisely the opposite: they have been around for decades.
This means that, in addition to lenses, there are all kinds of resources for people who want to learn more about using this style of camera. A brand-new Canon or Nikon DSLR shares most of its buttons, menus, and controls with their counterparts from years or even decades ago.

Canon Rebel Ti, 10mm, f/5.6, ISO 100, 1/500 second

If you are new to photography and want to learn how to use a DSLR, there’s a good chance someone you know will have a similar model, perhaps even an older version of the same camera. This is a huge reason that DSLRs aren’t dead yet and a big help for people who want to make the most of their more traditional camera gear.
This isn’t to say that mirrorless cameras don’t have legacy support either. Some, like Fuji, model their dials and controls after cameras that were popular several decades ago. But just because they share similar controls doesn’t mean they have the same degree of support.

Nikon D200, 50mm, f/1.8, ISO 400, 1/320 second

You are more likely to know people who can help you learn to use a DSLR because they also have one. Plus, the sheer number of websites and online tutorials for DSLRs is greater simply because they have been around longer. Of course, mirrorless cameras will catch up, but for now, the message is clear: DSLRs aren’t dead. Moreover, there are still plenty of reasons to consider buying one.
What about you? Are you a traditional DSLR shooter or have you gone over to mirrorless? Or are you like me, and use both types of cameras? I’m curious to hear your thoughts in the comments below. If you have other reasons that DSLRs aren’t dead please feel free to share them.

Share this article.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020

By: Jaymes Dempsey 



In recent years, mirrorless cameras have come to dominate much of the photography market. So much so that, if you’re a DSLR shooter, you may feel like you’re lagging behind. You may feel like you’re using old, antiquated equipment. You may start saving up for that brand-new mirrorless kit. But should you still use a DSLR in 2020?
Here’s the thing:
While mirrorless cameras may be all the rage these days, there’s a lot to be said for DSLRs.

And while there are a lot of benefits to going mirrorless, for some photographers, mirrorless bodies and lenses would be an unnecessary step sideways.
Or, even worse, a step backward.
That’s what this article is all about. I’m going to give you five reasons why you might want to still use a DSLR in 2020.
And you’ll come away knowing whether a DSLR still makes sense for your shooting needs, even in this increasingly mirrorless age.

1. DSLRs are much easier to work with in low light

If you’ve spent some time reading about DSLRs versus mirrorless cameras, then you’ll be familiar with the optical viewfinder and electronic viewfinder comparisons.
On the one hand, optical viewfinders are much clearer than electronic viewfinders, and they feel more real.

This Nikon DSLR features an optical viewfinder, which gives you a crisp and lifelike view through the lens.

On the other hand, electronic viewfinders give you a live preview of your image before you even take it, one that allows you to assess exposure from the moment you put the camera up to your eye. You also get other cool benefits, such as focus peaking (where you can see in-focus areas through the viewfinder), as well as the ability to “see” in black and white.
But there’s another key optical viewfinder benefit:
They look way better in low light.
When you’re shooting in darker situations, looking through an optical viewfinder is very similar to looking with your naked eye.
But looking through an electronic viewfinder is like looking through an old, poor-quality display. There’s noise everywhere, and this makes it tough to tell whether you’ve nailed focus and exposure.
Of course, it’s possible to look past these flaws, and you can still shoot mirrorless in low light. But it’s frustrating to look through a viewfinder and see a poor-quality image, so if you’re a frequent low-light shooter, you might want to consider sticking with a DSLR instead.
Now, EVFs are improving all the time, and there may reach a point in the future where the quality in low light comes close to that of OVFs. But right now, OVFs are dominating EVFs in the low-light arena.

2. You can shoot all day with a DSLR on a single battery

Another reason to still use a DSLR in 2020 is that DSLRs have much longer-lasting batteries compared to mirrorless cameras.
And if you’re the type of photographer who likes to shoot all day without stopping, or someone who goes into areas without access to electricity for days on end, you’re going to struggle with a mirrorless body.
Most mirrorless bodies are rated at around 250-400 shots, though you can get a substantial amount of additional life out of them if you make an effort to conserve battery. Even so, mirrorless battery life pales in comparison to DSLRs, which frequently feature capabilities from around 800 shots to 1500 shots and beyond.

This Nikon D850 has a battery life of 1840 high-resolution shots, which is much more than that of mirrorless competitors.

When I got my first mirrorless camera, I thought I was ready to handle the limited battery life. In a sense, I was: I had three original batteries, plus two chargers.
But even if you have the batteries to last a day or two, it’s frustrating to have to remember to charge them after every shoot. It’s also frustrating to change batteries during shoots, especially when working in the freezing cold or in bad weather.
So if battery life is a big deal to you, then you may want to stick with your DSLR.

3. DSLRs feel much better in your hand

I’ve used a number of mirrorless cameras, and I’ve also used a number of DSLRs.
And the DSLRs are far, far better when it comes to ergonomics.
You see, mirrorless cameras are much more compact than DSLRs on average. But in order to achieve the smaller form-factor, manufacturers have flattened body grips.
Sure, there are some mirrorless cameras that retain a DSLR-like feel, but many of the mid-level options from Sony and Fujifilm, not to mention the entry-level, no-viewfinder cameras from most manufacturers, have very limited grips.
And this makes them very tough to use for street photographers (who often shoot one-handed), as well as casual walkaround photographers. Plus, anyone who holds a camera for hours on end wants it to feel comfortable, not just usable.
In a lot of cases, mirrorless bodies just…aren’t.
Check out this DSLR, which shows the extent to which a deep body grip defines its shape:

While a Nikon D6 has a more obvious battery grip than many DSLRs, it’s still a fair example of the DSLR mold.

So before you grab a new mirrorless body, make sure to head into your local camera shop and actually try it out. Hold it in your hand.
And ask yourself:
How would I feel after hours in the field?
If the answer is something along the lines of “Not good,” then you may want to still use your DSLR in 2020.

4. DSLRs allow you to comfortably view the scene with both eyes open

I’ve already talked about the difference between electronic viewfinders and optical viewfinders.
But there’s a practical consequence that comes with using an electronic viewfinder that I haven’t mentioned:
It’s tough to shoot with both eyes open.
Now, if you’re a landscape or portrait photographer, you may think this is silly. Why would you ever need to use both eyes while shooting?
But if you’re an action photographer, someone who shoots sports or even street photos, then you may like to shoot with both eyes open. This allows you to anticipate movement. It allows you to see what’s going to move into the frame before it happens.
And it can really take your images to the next level.
Unfortunately, it’s hard to use both eyes when shooting mirrorless. This is because there’s a feeling of disconnect between the electronic viewfinder and the optical viewfinder. Plus, even the best EVFs have some kind of lag; while this may be irrelevant if using one eye to shoot, it creates a level of disjointedness when working with both eyes.
This is one of the reasons why, by the way, plenty of sports photographers are still opting for a camera like the Nikon D5/6 or the Canon 1D X Mark II/III over mirrorless options like the Sony a9 II or the Olympus OM-D E-M1X. While the latter two cameras offer incredible specs, it’s just too difficult to use them with both eyes open.

The Canon 1D X Mark III is a sought-after sports camera by professionals.

5. DSLRs offer a better lens selection

Here’s your final reason to still use a DSLR in 2020 over mirrorless:
The lens selection.

Now, there are plenty of great lenses for mirrorless systems. But the range just isn’t as expansive as the DSLR lens lineup that’s offered by Canon or Nikon.
Fortunately, there are adapters that allow you to use DSLR lenses on mirrorless bodies. But these can cost a substantial amount of money, and for some lineups, they’re just not ideal.
Some shooters won’t care about the limited lens offerings; if you’re a portrait photographer, for instance, you’ll probably be just fine with the lens lineup offered by any of the major mirrorless manufacturers. This is because portrait-type lenses are often developed first, as part of a “standard” prime and zoom series.
But if you photograph with more specialized equipment – a set of super-telephoto lenses, for instance, or a long macro lens – you’ll struggle to get the glass you need to really capture your images.

The selection of super-telephoto lenses is limited in mirrorless lineups.

Note, also that switching from a Canon DSLR to a mirrorless system like Fujifilm, will cost a significant sum of money. You’ll need to buy a mirrorless camera, yes, but you’ll also need to replace your entire lens lineup. And while you can sell your DSLR lenses on the used market, they likely won’t get you close to the cash you need for a well-rounded Fuji system.
So make sure you keep this in mind before switching to mirrorless.

5 Reasons you should still use a DSLR in 2020: Conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the five key reasons you should still use a DSLR in 2020 over a mirrorless camera.
And you should have a sense of whether a DSLR makes sense for your needs.

Now I’d like to know:
Do you shoot mirrorless or with a DSLR? And why? Share your reasons in the comments below!

Share this article.

Viral video - Cell phone video, Inspiration for you videographers considering a topic for your next project.  193,625 views on Facebook. Your video may receive more. 
You want to make your own cell phone movie, but don't know where to start?  Where do you find a good clamp clip tripod?


Try this link:https://bit.ly/31Y7Obh
...then post your video on social media.

How to Use Drones to do Stunning Aerial Photography

By: Andrew Thomas 

One of the most exciting developments in photography in the last year or two is the drone – high flying cameras that enable you to capture unique viewpoints of common subjects. Recently the cost of getting a camera into the air has dropped dramatically and if you decide to venture down this road I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. Apart from the amazing images you will capture, they are also tremendous fun!

As with most modern technology there is a vast range of drones, or UAVs (unmanned aerial vehicles), on the market. Similar to camera equipment in general, how much you’re prepared to spend will determine the quality of camera on-board, and the flying characteristics of the drone itself. There are low-cost models that will take very basic images, up to the big boys toys that will happily lift your prized DSLR up into the heavens. You can even add your GoPro on to some units that will take advantage of camera gear you may already have. One company has a range of models that has a large percentage of the market – DJI. Their Phantom range of drones are the first choice for many, and though they do make some high end-models, the Phantom 3 series models are the most popular drone in the world, for good reason.

Getting Started

One of the big advertising features of most drones these days is their ease of operation. “Fly Straight Out of the Box” is a common term you’ll see, and in fact it is also very true. Charge the battery, download the app to your smartphone, fire it up, and away you go.
However, it must be mentioned that as easy as these are to fly, common sense and care is a big part of aerial flying. It’s suggested you start with some limitations in place, easily set up on the smartphone app that runs the drone. This is usually along the lines of limiting the maximum height you can fly, and also how far away you can send the drone.

Photo courtesy of DJI

Always start somewhere wide open, such as a local oval or park, and spend time getting a feel of the controls before you even think about pressing the shutter button. Always be aware of your location in relation to what’s around you. As these cameras usually have a wide angle lens (20mm equivalent) and it’s easy to mis-judge your positioning when in close proximity to objects such as trees and buildings, especially if viewing the smartphone screen is your prime.

Rules and Regulations

Most countries have rules to follow, and while they can’t all be mentioned here, usually they are along the lines of these:

• Drone must always be in Line of Sight (LOS) – that basically means you should always be able to see it
• Maximum Height 133 metres (400 feet)
• Never fly over groups of people
• Respect others privacy
• No flying anywhere near airports and other no-fly zones as specified in each country

It’s suggested you check with your local air safety authorities for particular details in your area.

A few months ago I was flying above my local railway station, looking for the perfect image at dusk, just as the lights came on that illuminate the tower every evening on this historic building. Happily flying for five minutes or so, I looked down to see two local policemen coming over to me. My first reaction in these circumstances is to gauge their reaction to drone flying, and if there are any concerns I bring the machine down immediately. Unfortunately drones have been getting some negative publicity in the press, certainly not helped by the person that crash landed one on the front lawn of the White House in Washington earlier in 2015. Luckily these two policemen were very interested in what I was doing. By showing them exactly on-screen what I was seeing, and explaining the whole procedure and the care I was taking in not flying directly above any people, they left with a very positive attitude.
I think it’s very important to fly with this attitude in mind. And one other thing about flying in public places….you will need to be prepared to become the centre of attention as people are generally quite intrigued by what you doing!

Its also tempting to think that aerial imaging is going to be a great new avenue for making some money from your photography. Once again this is another area where the rules vary from country to country, and you should look into the certification you may need in your area to undertake paid aerial work.

Amazing Technology

Todays drones have some amazing technology on board that has revolutionized aerial photography:

• By connecting your smartphone to your handheld remote control unit, you can see on-screen exactly what the drone is viewing. This makes for perfect compositional adjustments.
• Camera controls are extensive – auto or full manual control, RAW capture, even time-lapse
• The drone will hover in the one spot with incredible stability, almost like an aerial tripod! You can take your hands off the controls and the drone will stay in that position.
• Failsafe flight options. With an average 20 minutes flight time per battery charge, the drone can detect when your battery is getting low and will go into RTH mode (automatic return-to-home), ensuring the drone comes back to you! If for some reason the lightbridge connection between the remote control and the machine itself is lost (this can happen when flying behind buildings or trees), once again RTH is activated. Another great use for the RTH feature is when you have lost sight of the drone, which is quite easy to do once it gets some distance away from you, by pressing the RTH button your flying camera will happily return to you before you know it.

Aerial Photography

When you first start flying, it’s very exciting to get home, load your images, and marvel at the amazing scenes you have captured. In my first few weeks of flying, everything I took was thrilling. However, I quickly realized that aerial photography is no different to other forms of photography – it’s still all about the light! So rather than just heading out randomly, I once again started to chase the light and conditions, which has always been the strength of my landscape photography.
As a landscape photographer I am always aware of weather conditions and what they might offer. Now even more so, as a drone pilot you will have to also take into account the wind forecasts. Drones are not something you fly in high winds (unless you have to get that amazing once-in-a-lifetime scene in front of you!) and you will find yourself looking for calm weather more than any other condition.

At present the in-built cameras on most drones are nowhere near the quality you are used to with your ground level camera. However, I have found the images I have been able to capture are surprisingly good. Though only 12mps, the fact that you can shoot a RAW file gives you more options to work with later on. The jpg files are also surprisingly good, especially if you have been flying in good light.
Even when shooting in low light the quality has been amazing for such a small camera unit, and the stability of the camera at 300 feet can be quite astonishing. You can also shoot panorama images just as you would when down at sea level, once again creating something very unique. And why not try a time-lapse from 300 feet?! I have had images printed up to A3 size (roughly 12×16) and you would be hard pressed to tell they were taken with a 12mp camera.

I should also mention that most drones these days shoot high quality video, even up to 4K, which produces stunning aerial footage. In fact, at 4K resolution it’s possible to take a high quality frame directly out of the video.

Unique Views

One thing you will love is the amazing patterns you find in the landscape when viewed from above. Drones allow you to get into the area that most planes and helicopters are not allowed to – below 300 feet. Google Maps makes a great starting point for finding locations that look worth visiting.
It certainly beats putting your camera on the end of a ten foot pole (yes, I did that a few years ago).

As a landscape photographer for a number of years now, I can’t recommend highly enough aerial imaging as a unique way to add that extra aspect to your photography. Everyone you share your images with will be amazed and intrigued, and don’t forget how much fun it is. If you ever tire of it, you may like to try herding sheep with your drone – yes, it’s been done!
Have you tried out any drone or aerial photography yourself? Please share your tips and images in the comments below.

Share this article.