Sunday, October 13, 2019

10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

Making Lightroom Run Faster-Darina kopcok-DPS
Lightroom is an excellent program editing and managing your image files. When it comes to organizing and developing your photos, Lightroom can’t be beaten. However, there are times when it slows down; like when it renders previews. To address this, here are ten tips that will make Lightroom Classic CC run faster.
10 Tips to Help Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Update Lightroom regularly

Let’s start with the simplest tip: update Lightroom regularly.
Word is that Adobe has been working diligently behind the scenes on improving the performance of Lightroom, so it’s important to keep it updated.
To check for updates, click on -> Help in the top menu bar in Lightroom and then click on -> Updates to install them.
Help-Updates-Lightroom-DPS

Optimize your Catalog

Lightroom continually updates the catalog file, but eventually, the data structure can become less optimal.

Lightroom has an “optimize catalog” option you can enable to improve performance.

To access this option, go to Lightroom -> Preferences and click on -> Performance.
Then click on -> Optimize Performance.
Set up Lightroom to back up on a regular schedule, and set it to optimize the catalog following the backup.
You can backup as often as you like. Ensure you always have the latest backup in case your Lightroom catalog becomes corrupt.
Be sure to discard previous backups to keep them from slowing down your computer.
More on this in a bit.
Optimize Catalog in Lightroom-DPS

Store your Lightroom Catalog and Previews on your main hard drive

Lightroom stores your catalog and preview files on your main hard drive by default.
To check where the catalog and previews files are stored, go to Lightroom -> Catalog Setting (Mac) or -> Edit -> Catalog Settings (PC).
The Catalog name is an .lrcat file and its location can be found under the -> General tab.
The preview file is an .lrdata file and it is stored in the same location.
Lightroom Catalog Location-DPS

Check your hard drive space

If your computer’s main hard drive is running low on space, Lightroom will slow down, as will any other programs that you’re running simultaneously, like Photoshop.
Your main hard drive needs at least 20% free space for Lightroom to run optimally.
Keep in mind that Lightroom can actually be one of the reasons you’re running low on space!
If you have Lightroom set to back up your catalog every day or every time you close it down, that can result in a lot of space being taken up by backup files.
Delete all of these backup files except the last couple of backups you have made.
It’s important to have the latest backup in case your Lightroom catalog becomes corrupt, but that is all you really need.
10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

Convert your images to DNG when importing into Lightroom

DNG is short for Digital Negative. It’s a RAW file format created by Adobe.
When you convert a file into DNG, Lightroom ads Fast Load Data to the file, which results in a partially processed preview that allows Lightroom to render faster previews in the Develop module.
Adobe claims that a DNG file with Fast Load Data can load up to eight times faster.
Another benefit of converting to DNG files is that they are smaller files than other RAW formats and take up 20% less space on your hard drive.
You must enable this Fast Load Data under your Lightroom Preferences tab.
Go to -> File Handling and check off Embed Fast Load Data. Make sure you have DNG selected as the file extension.
Fast Load Data-Lightroom-DPS

Edit your images using Adobe’s recommended Adjustment Steps

The panels in the Develop module are organized according to a suggested workflow.
Adobe also recommends that adjustments in Lightroom follow a certain order to maximize performance. They are as follows:
  1. Spot Healing
  2. Lens Correction
  3. Transformations
  4. Global Adjustments
  5. Local Adjustments
  6. Sharpening
  7. Noise Reduction
Whenever you make an edit, Lightroom applies it and calculates the previous adjustments that have been made. The more adjustments you apply, the more Lightroom slows down.
This helps keep track of your edits but slows down your system because Lightroom is calculating adjustments as you edit.
I personally stick to this order, except that I start by adjusting my white balance.
I also leave detailed edits for Photoshop. For example, as using the spot healing brush repeatedly can slow Lightroom down significantly. You are better off using this tool in Photoshop, which is also more precise.
Also, editing your images in the order they appear in your Lightroom filmstrip can have an impact on speed.
Lightroom caches images for faster performance in the Develop module.
It will automatically load the next and previous images in the filmstrip below your photos in the memory.
In the screenshot below, the active image is highlighted with a lighter grey background. The images on either side have also been loaded into memory for quick access.
LR Edit Order-Darina Kopcok-EP

Build standard  previews on Import

Lightroom offers several preview settings for your images.
Although there are differing opinions as to which is the optimal preview setting, I suggest building standard previews on import.
This will slow down the import process, but it will make the Library module more responsive when you review the imported images. Lightroom renders the previews from your SSD, rather than building them from the RAW files.
Make sure your previews are set close to the width of your screen.
For example, I work on a 27-inch iMac with a 5120 x 2880 built-in retina display. This means my display should be set at 5120 pixels.
To make this adjustment, go to the -> Catalog Settings and choose -> File Handling.
Choose the previews size under -> Standard Preview Size.
10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster
Display-Lightroom-DPS

Make your Camera RAW cache larger

Lightroom has a Preview Cache, which is stored with your Catalog file and used in the Library view.
It also has a Camera RAW cache, which loads the image date when you’re in the Develop module.
The default size for this is 1GB, which slows down performance due to Lightroom swapping images in and out of its cache while you’re editing.
I suggest setting the Camera RAW cache to 20 or 30GB.
To set this option go to your Lightroom -> Preferences and click -> Performance.
Set your desired maximum size RAW cache Settings.
10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster 10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

Disable XMP Writing

Lightroom keeps track of the edits you make in the Develop module in its catalog. If something happens to this catalog, you can lose all your data.
Lightroom can be configured to write the develop setting data into an XMP file. This a small file that contains the edit information and is written to your computer’s hard drive in the same place as your original RAW file.
The problem is that writing changes into this file can really slow your computer down.
I suggest disabling this feature and make sure that you always have a current backup instead.
10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

Pause Address and Face Lookup features

Lightroom allows you to look up image address based on the GPS data, or the ability to search for faces.
However, allowing these options to run in the background can slow Lightroom down. So it’s best to pause them while you’re actually editing your photos.
You can start them up again if they’re relevant to your editing process.
For example, as a food photographer, I don’t use these features so I have mine set permanently on “pause”.
To access these features, go to where your name appears in the top left-hand corner of the Lightroom interface and click on the arrow beside it to access the drop-down menu. Choose -> Pause.
10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

When it comes to archiving, organizing and all-around management of your photos, Lightroom is an amazing program.
Hopefully, these tips help you get the most out of the program and speed up its performance so you can spend less time editing and more time shooting!

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How to make your photos more AWESOME in Lightroom or Photoshop Camera Raw

Friday, October 11, 2019

The Absolute Beginners Guide to Camera Settings

When you bought your fancy camera with all its buttons and dials, you began a journey that few can endure.
Most people who buy a DSLR, never figure out how to use it. But the fact that you’re reading an article like this means that you’re determined to learn.
One of the most difficult phases of photography you’ll pass through is figuring out how your camera works. But once you understand even a little bit, the world of photography opens its doors to you.
If you’re new to photography, then this Absolute Beginners Guide to Camera Settings is for you.
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Start in auto mode
The Olympus Tough TG-6 comes with auto mode, more than a dozen scene modes, as well as 
aperture mode (one of the most used settings by photographers). This photo was taken by a child 
using a DSLR in auto mode.

Photographs are made with light

Buying paint and canvas does not guarantee that you will produce a nice painting, nor does buying a camera guarantee a good photo.
Your camera is a complicated piece of technology designed to capture the moment you see with your eye and make a picture. However, the main ingredient it uses is not ink or paint but light.
A poor photograph may be due to a lack of creativity. But many creative photos are ruined due to a wrong combination of camera settings used to make a picture. The most important camera settings are about what the camera does as it makes a picture out of light.
Using Auto Mode with Window Light

Small steps

Sure, cameras differ in their capability and quality, but it’s not really the camera that is ultimately responsible for how the photo turns out. You must have control over the camera to make it do what you want it to.
Every time you snap a picture, you need to make some decisions that are affected by camera settings:
  • Do I want my background to be in focus or not?
  • Should I freeze the action or capture motion blur?
  • Do I want my photo to be warm or cool-looking?
  • Is it best to capture a series of shots in burst mode or just one photo at a time?
These decisions, and many more, are represented by “camera settings.” You select certain settings so that the camera knows what to do when it takes a picture.
There are many settings and I want to walk you through some of the most important.
The best way to learn something is by taking small steps. Learn one step, and don’t move on until you understand it. Bookmark this and other articles so that you can come back to them as you grow in your understanding.
Confused about camera settings
This was my attempt to capture my son’s first steps with an advanced camera that I didn’t know 
how to use.

Auto mode

Let’s begin in Auto mode. Look for the dial on the top of your camera. You’ll either see the word auto or perhaps just a green box or icon.
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Auto Mode
What does Auto mode do? It means that your camera will make all the decisions for you and choose all the settings. All you have to do is take the picture!
When you put your camera in Auto mode, you’re basically saying, “I don’t know how to work this thing!” There is no shame in not understanding how your camera works. If you are determined, you will learn over time.
It is possible to take nice photos in Auto mode. Part of the reason that auto mode can work so well is that it frees your mind from the technical aspects of photography that you don’t understand yet. Auto mode allows you to focus on the creative elements and use of light that you’re more likely drawn to.
Auto Mode Examples

Auto mode exercise

Go ahead and put your camera in Auto mode. Get out into the world and take lots of pictures. As you sort through your photos, make a list of the problems you run into. It’s easier to learn photography and grow when you’ve got specific problems that you can ask questions about.

Problems with Auto mode

You’re going to run into lots of problems in Auto mode, but how come? Shouldn’t your camera be smart enough to take a great picture on its own?
First, your camera has no idea what it’s looking at. So, it doesn’t know what you’re taking a picture of and it doesn’t know what you want the picture to look like.
All it’s trying to do is take a picture with the right exposure. Exposure refers to how bright or dark your photo is and it’s all the camera really cares about in auto mode.
You may see an inspiring scene in front of you, but the camera doesn’t. All it’s trying to do is expose your photo properly, and even that doesn’t work well many times.
Motion blur in auto mode.
Common problems in Auto mode include motion blur.

Blown highlights
Overexposed highlights are another major problem in Auto mode.
Over time, you’ll have a pretty good idea of what you wish you could make your camera do. You’ll say, “I wish I could tell my camera to…”
The good news is, there is actually a way to tell your camera what you’re taking a picture of and how you wish it would look.

How to tell your camera what you’re taking a picture of

If you tell your camera what you’re taking a picture of, you’ll increase the odds of getting a better photo.
The way to tell your camera what you’re taking a picture of is to use the scene mode option on your camera. Scene mode covers the most popular photography situations such as landscape, portrait, close-up, sports, etc.
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Scene mode
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Scene modes

When you select the appropriate scene, you’re telling your camera what you’re photographing. Your camera will choose a combination of settings that are best suited to that situation. It’s going to choose roughly the same settings that an experienced photographer would use.
Sports Mode
You can use Sports mode when photographing quick moving kids, or when you’re photographing 
any action. There will still be imperfections in your photos, but you’re more likely to freeze the action.

Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Freeze Action
Freeze quick-moving subjects with Sports mode.

Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Portrait Mode
Portrait mode will help your camera achieve an out-of-focus background. That background blur
is referred to as bokeh.

Landscape mode
Landscape mode will favor a greater depth of field in your photo. This will keep more of the 
foreground, midground, and background in focus. It tends to make colors more vibrant too.

Your camera will have all sorts of scene modes to explore. Consider the situation you’re in and see if your camera has a scene mode to help you out.
But still, your photos might not turn out great. Why? Because ultimately your camera is most obsessed with making your photo bright enough. And you might be pointing it at a scene that is really hard for the camera to capture properly.

Light and creativity

When you put your camera on Auto mode, it has to balance three main settings in order to make a picture out of light.
The three settings are ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Each of these three settings contributes to the overall brightness or exposure of your photo. But aperture and shutter speed have creative effects as well.
Aperture contributes toward brightening or darkening your photo, but will also help make your background out of focus, or keep it in focus.
Shutter speed contributes toward brightening or darkening your photo, but will also help freeze the action or make your photo blurry.
ISO contributes toward brightening or darkening your photo but doesn’t really have its own creative effect.
I’ll show you how to begin taking control of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings so that you can get a predictably good photo. I mean a photo that is bright enough without being too bright, a photo where the action is captured as you wish and the background is in or out of focus as you desire.
A little more like the photo on the right than the photo on the left!
Good vs Bad Photo

Make one decision

The good news is, you can take some control of your camera without the burden of having to take full control. You can take control over one of the three main settings that are part of the exposure triangle. But how do you choose which one?
You can make this decision by asking yourself what’s more important; freezing the action, or blurring the background?
If you’re taking pictures of birds, sports, or other quick-moving subjects, you’re likely most concerned with freezing the action. If you’re taking a portrait, you’re most likely concerned with an out-of-focus background or, bokeh.
In order to achieve an out-of-focus background, we’ll begin with a setting called aperture.

Aperture Mode

If you’re most concerned with whether or not your background is in focus, choose Aperture mode (also known as Aperture Priority).
  • For Nikon and most other cameras, turn your dial to A.
  • For Canon, turn it to Av.
  • If you’re using a Fuji, you control the aperture with a ring on the lens.
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Aperture Mode
When you put your camera on Aperture mode, you’re telling your camera that you want to control the aperture but you want the camera to control the shutter speed and ISO.
You use aperture to control whether or not your background is in focus, but what exactly is aperture?
To understand aperture, think about your kitchen sink. Picture turning the tap on full-blast. The water will come rushing out of the tap. But you could also turn the tap on gently so that there is a slow trickle of water.
That’s what aperture is, except with light.
Open your aperture up and get a strong flow of light coming through your lens. Close the aperture, and you’ll only have a trickle of light.

The creative effect of aperture

Open up your aperture and your background will be more out of focus (great for portraits). Close your aperture a bit and your background will be more in focus (great for landscapes).
The aperture is measured in numbers such as 1.8 or 3.5 or 5.6 or 8 or 11, etc. The smaller the number, the more open the aperture. The larger the number, the more closed.
Open aperture
This was an aperture of f/4. The background is out of focus. The more you bring your subject away
from the background, the more out of focus the background will look.

In focus background
The aperture was set to f/11 for this photo so that the background is more in-focus.

The smaller the number and the more open the aperture, the more light that comes in and the more out of focus the background.
The larger the number and the more closed the background, the less light that comes in, and the more in-focus the background.
When you’re in Aperture mode, you use the scroller on your camera to open and close the aperture.
Choose Aperture mode when you’re most concerned about whether or not your background is in focus.
Image: If you close your aperture a bit, then you’ll have a greater depth of focus in your pho...
If you close your aperture a bit, then you’ll have a greater depth of focus in your photo. This
photograph was made at f/5.6, but I would even recommend f/11 for landscape photos. Closing
your aperture will help to keep both the foreground and background in focus.

beginners-guide-to-camera-settings-50mm lens
If you want your background to be blurred, then open your aperture as much as you can. That might 
be f/3.5 or f/5.6 on the lens that you’re using. If you have a 50mm lens then you can open all the 
way to f/1.8.

Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-50mm bokeh
The other way to help your background to go blurry is to step closer toward your subject.

50mm close up
The closer you get to them, the more the background goes out of focus.

ISO

Remember, ISO doesn’t exactly have a creative effect.
So what is ISO and when do you use it?
ISO is a magical setting that helps your camera to see in the dark.
So you would set your ISO according to the lighting conditions that you’re in.
  • Is it a bright sunny day? Then set your ISO to 100 or 200.
  • Perhaps the sky is overcast? Set your ISO to 400 or 800.
  • Are you in dim indoor light? Set your ISO to 1600 or 3200. Maybe even 6400!
You have two main options when it comes to ISO:
  • Set it to Auto and let the camera figure it out.
  • Take control of it yourself.
I recommend playing in Aperture mode with your ISO set to auto. That way, you can experiment with aperture and let the camera figure out ISO and shutter speed for you. In a moment, we’ll look at shutter mode. In that case, I recommend leaving your ISO on auto as well. Take control of ISO when you feel comfortable with the other settings.

A word of caution about ISO

The higher you raise your ISO to help capture the light, the more noise or graininess will be introduced in your photo – especially in low light. The noise or grain is intensified all the more if you brighten your photos in post-processing (with a program such as Lightroom).
I don’t always mind a little noise or graininess in my photos. Noise and graininess are normally considered an imperfection in our photos. To me, it reflects the graininess or imperfection of everyday life and the moment by moment struggle that we have as photographers when we take pictures.
My photos are filled with imperfections, as am I in real life. If everything in my photo looks good except for the grain, then I am happy. I have an old iPhone that I keep around just for its nostalgic graininess.
High ISO Grain
The grain or digital noise is easily seen in this high ISO photo. Generally, the newer the camera and
the larger the sensor, the less of a problem you’ll have with noise.

Shutter Mode

If your main concern is freezing the action, then you should choose Shutter mode (also known as Shutter Priority).
  • Nikon – set your dial to S.
  • Canon – set your dial to Tv.
  • Fuji – look for the dial with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc.
Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings-Shutter mode
If the aperture is how much flow of water is coming out of the tap, then shutter speed is how long the water comes out for.
Aperture controls how much flow of light comes into the camera, while shutter speed controls how long that flow comes in for.
The quicker the shutter speed, the less light that comes in.
The slower the shutter speed, the more light that comes in.
It’s generally the case that in bright light you should have a quicker shutter speed, and in dim light, you need a slower shutter speed. The danger with a slower shutter speed is that your photo may become blurry.

Why will your photo become blurry with a slow shutter speed?

Consider shutter speed being how long it takes for your camera to take a picture. A quick shutter speed means that the photo is taken so quickly that the action is frozen in the photo. But a slower shutter speed means that the camera takes longer to take the photo and any movement in the scene becomes smeared across the photo.
Two circumstances lead to a blurry photo. The first is that you have moved the camera while taking the picture – often referred to as camera shake. Maybe your hand shakes, or the camera vibrates as you take the photo.
Camera shake motion blur
You must hold the camera still and consider using a tripod when your photos turn out like this.

Another possibility is that your camera is perfectly still but your subject is moving. If the person you’re photographing is moving, they may be smeared across the photo.
Motion blur
But even if you put your camera on a tripod, a moving subject may cause motion blur.

So what does it take to freeze the action?

You’ll notice that shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second. You’ll see numbers such as 1/125th or 1/2000th. Basically, the smaller the fraction, the more likely you are to freeze the action.
So 1/2000th will likely freeze the action, but 1/60th likely will not.
Slow shutter speed mtion blur.
Shutter speed of 1/40th of a second. The camera was held still so that the background was sharp,
but the motion is blurred.

Absolute-Beginners-Guide-to-Camera-Settings - Freeze the action
A shutter speed of 1/500th of a second froze the motion of her hair as she turned.

Freezing the action.
A shutter speed of 1/2500th froze him as he bounced in the air.

Slow shutter speed creative effects

Silky waterfall shutter priority
These silky waterfalls were captured using a slow shutter speed. ISO 100, 1-second shutter speed

Slow shutter speed panning
The panning technique uses a combination of slow shutter speed and following the movement of 
your subject with the camera. The shutter speed was 1/20th of a second.

Other articles to explore

You now have enough knowledge to control the amount of background blur in your photo and to freeze or blur the action. You can also use ISO to help your camera see better in the dark.
Now it’s up to you to practice one little bit at a time until you’re comfortable and ready to move on.
Here are some more advanced concepts that may help you down the road.
Many people find it harder to master the introductory stage of camera settings than the advanced stages. Advanced techniques are easy to learn once you know the basics. Don’t be discouraged, and feel free to leave questions in the comment section below.




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7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography

When you ask people what is landscape photography they have no trouble defining it. But ask what urban landscape photography is and you will get conflicting answers. People have an idea, but often don’t really understand what it is, or how to go about doing it. One of the first things to do is work out what it is, and then how you can do your own urban landscapes.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
Urban landscape photograph, taken in the early evening from a rooftop looking back towards the city.

What is urban landscape photography?

Before you can start taking specific urban landscape images it is good if you understand what it is. If urban refers to cities and towns, then it is generally understood that landscapes of these would be defined as that. Any image within those places where humans live, work and play would be considered in that category.
Cities are very popular for this kind of photography. You will find that many of you are already doing urban landscapes, especially when you travel. However, when you ask others what it is you are often told cityscapes. Yes they are, but there is so much more to the genre than that.
Here are seven tips to help you get better urban landscapes and, hopefully, help you to understand what it is as well.

1 – Street photography

Street photography can fall into two categories, one is street portraits, and the other looks more at the scene and what is going on. The first is not what you would typically find in urban landscapes, but the second is.
Look for scenes where people are, groups, or individuals, but place them in their environment so you get a context of where they are and what is happening. You could photograph people shopping and take a look at consumerism. Perhaps go to sporting events and photograph how people carry on at them. There are parks where people may be sitting on their own with no one around. Anywhere that people hang out is going to make for some interesting urban landscape photography.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
A street scene showing the landscape and what people are doing in it.

2 – From above

There are many ways to photograph above the city now. You can see the tops of the buildings looking straight down to the streets below. You can get amazing views that are unique.
Observation decks allow you to look down onto the city. They aren’t always easy to shoot from, as you sometimes have to take photos through glass or some sort of security mesh.
Another way is a helicopter ride over a city. It is an option that many cities offer now. You can take a 15-minute ride if you want to pay for it. If you are lucky to live somewhere like Melbourne, you can also take early morning balloon rides over the city. You will get some views of the city that are available no other way.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
A view from above, this was taken from Eureka Deck, an observation deck looking over Melbourne.

3 – Long exposure photography

Without a doubt, there aren’t many types of photography that long exposures don’t suit. You can use it for individual buildings or for groups and streets. It allows you to create some magical scenes.
The most common one that people think of is using Neutral Density filters so you can get very long exposures, anything from 30-seconds to several minutes. They can help create movement with getting blurred clouds, or you can remove people and cars from streets. You can get some interesting effects with the filters. Whether you use it for one building or many, and over water you will get some different images.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
A long exposure of Melbourne taken across the river.

4 – Night photography and light trails

Night photography is another way. Urban environments are great when the sun goes down. As the lights come on you can get a completely different view. The camera will pick up a lot more than you can see with your eyes. Depending on how bright or dim it is you may be able to take some exposures for a minute to two, even longer.
You can also get great light trails at night. Look for interesting streets that have some great buildings in the background that you can use when capturing the trails.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
Light trails of cars moving around captured during the night.

5 – Interesting architecture

Every city strives to build interesting buildings. Architects like to show off as much as anyone. No matter where you are, see if you can find the most interesting structures to photograph.
You could figure out why a building was designed for an area; if there is something unique about it. Churches were often built on hills so the congregations were still looking up to them when they weren’t attending.
Look for buildings that are nestled in with others that are very different. Perhaps there is an old building somewhere that is surrounded by new ones. Scenes like that can give your images an interesting story.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
One of the most distinctive buildings in Melbourne, Flinders Street Station.

6 – Weather and seasons

People often forget how a city or town can look completely different in each season and how the weather can change it as well. If you only go to a place once, you don’t get a lot of choices. But if you live or visit them often then you can get a wide variety of shots when you photograph it at other times and in various conditions.
Throughout the year, the seasons will give you numerous opportunities to get scenes that are unique to that time. Autumn will have the colors, so any trees in the streets or parks can make them colorful. Winter will have people rugged up against the cold and public places are empty. In summer everyone is in lighter clothing and those same spaces are filled with people. Consider what sort of photos you want and then choose the season accordingly.
Rain, hail or shine, well perhaps not hail, but each will give your urban landscape a distinct look. The weather is not something you can control but you can take advantage of it. Photos of cities that are white from the snow can be magical. Rain will make all the surfaces reflective and make it look bigger and shinier. Don’t underestimate how much bad weather can make your photos that bit different.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
Rain has given Hosier Lane a shiny appearance.

7 – Leading lines

Bridges are beautiful, but they can be used for so much more than traveling. They can be the perfect way to help your viewer enter your image. Leading lines are fantastic for helping your audience know where you want them to look. Though bridges are one type, there are lots of others as well.
Really anything that will lead people into an image will work. Look for roads that enter and leave cities and towns. Using the light trails of cars or other vehicles can be great for the same thing. Don’t just think road and bridges, consider train tracks, a moving bus, anything that will take or point your viewer to the area where you want them to focus.
7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
Using the bridge as a leading line to take you into the early morning light in Melbourne.

Taking the tips

You don’t have to do all of these, but using one or a few will help you get good urban landscape photography images. Consider what you are taking and think about the environment around you. Make the most of it and give your images a purpose.
Share your urban landscape photography in the comments below!