Nikon Coolpix S230

 By: Darren Rowse 

The Nikon Coolpix S230 is another of the S-Series Coolpix point and shoot cameras to be announced by Nikon today. This one features a 3x optical zoom lens, 3.0 inch LCD display, ten megapixel image sensor and 44 megabytes of internal memory.

The Nikon Coolpix S230 comes in a variety of colors – Plum, Jet Black, Night Blue, Gloss Red and Warm Silver.

It will hit stores this month (February 2009) with a retail price resembling its model number – $230 USD. It is already available at Amazon for ordering.

Also announced today by Nikon are the Nikon Coolpix P90, Nikon Coolpix S630, S620 and S220.

Nikon Coolpix S230 News Release Extract

Slim, compact and stylish, this duo is perhaps the most elegant of the new S-Series. The S230 features a combination of an advanced 3.0 inch touch-screen with basic buttons, so taking photographs is great fun and very easy. It also incorporates an array of advanced functions such as the new Blink Proof, Quick Retouch, Scene Auto Selector and Scene Mode. Blink Proof ensures you won’t take pictures of anyone with their eyes closed. Quick Retouch allows you to retouch images after they’ve been taken using advanced technologies from Nikon’s award winning D-SLRs. Seventeen scene modes in the S230 and sixteen in the S220 allow you to choose the perfect camera settings for almost any shooting situation. In addition to 10 effective megapixels and a NIKKOR 3x zoom lens, these models offer Electronic Vibration Reduction, a high sensitivity range up to ISO 2000 and Motion Detection to make picture-taking easy in any situation. At just 18mm, the S220 is thin and lightweight (approx. 100 g) and has a 2.5-inch LCD monitor for reviewing your pictures. Both cameras have stylish metallic bodies that will fit any small bag and come in a range of fashionable colours varying from Soft Silver, Warm Silver, Aqua Green, Gloss Red, Night Blue, Cobalt Blue, Magenta and Purple to Black.

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The Best Fujifilm X-Series Kits for Travel Photography

By: Matt Murray

Travel has always been my first love. In 1994 I bought my first camera – a Pentax Zoom 90 WR point and shoot – because I was going to Europe for a two-year working holiday. The only way to share photos with family back then was to have the film developed and post the prints home!

While photography (and technology) has changed remarkably in the last 25 years, what you should look for in a camera for travel photography is much the same: small, light, capable of great results and preferably weather resistant.

I’ve used all sorts of camera brands over the years. However, for me, Fujifilm X-Series cameras and lenses are the perfect travel companions. Whether it’s a trip to the Australian outback, visiting remote Buddhist temples in the Javanese jungle, photographing puffins in the Faroe Islands or capturing traffic trails in Taiwan, my X-Series cameras have always produced stunning results. Here are my recommended Fujifilm X-Series kits for your next big adventure.

Best minimalist kit

Camera: Fujifilm X100F
Lens: Fixed F2 Fujinon lens
Weight: 469 grams

The best minimalist kit choice was easily the stunning Fujifilm X100F. This is the best compact digital camera ever made. Yes, it really is that good!

Many photographers – including diehard users of other brands – use this as their “take everywhere” shooter. The X100F is small and quiet, and the fast f/2 Fujinon lens creates beautiful images. It may be small, but it boasts an impressive array of features including a leaf shutter and built-in neutral density filter.

Like all the cameras I feature in this article, the X100F can shoot RAW alongside Fujifilm’s array of stunning JPG film simulations, that replicate the look of classic films such as Provia and Velvia. Fujifilm cameras produce the best JPGs I’ve seen straight out of the camera.

This choice is a little unusual as it has a fixed lens. That’s right. You can’t take it off and swap it for another lens. If the 23mm focal length (35mm in full-frame terms) isn’t your preferred choice, the system also has wide-angle conversion and telephoto converter lenses. However, these do add extra weight to your kit. One of the few downsides to the X100F is that it’s not weather resistant. But, at least it’s small enough to fit in your pocket during a downpour.

One body plus one lens kit

Camera body: X-T30
Lens: XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS lens
Approximate weight: 693 grams

If you only have space to take one body and one lens on a trip, I would recommend the brand new Fujifilm X-T30 with the XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS lens. I’ve been using this line of cameras since buying the X-T10 as a second body back up to my X-T1, and I’ve also used the X-T20. The X-T cameras with a “0” after them are lighter, cheaper, non-weather resistant versions of the flagship models, but usually feature much of the same technology. For example, the X-T30 has the same 26.1MP X-Trans 4 CMOS sensor as the X-T3.

Alternatives for the camera body would be the X-T20 and the X-E3. The X-T20 gives you a screen that tilts up and down for overhead and low to the ground shots. Whereas, the X-E3 is the more minimalist choice, and features a joystick that controls where the focus point is in the frame. The X-T30 and the X-T3 have both of these features.

My choice of lens for this kit is the XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS. Not only is it one of my favorite Fujifilm lenses, but it’s also the lens that I’ve used the most over the last three years.

Often sold with camera bodies, many newcomers to the X-Series remark that the XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS lens is “surprisingly good for a kit lens.” In no way is this lens like the subpar beginner kit lenses produced by other manufacturers. The XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS is a stunningly sharp lens in its own right and has produced some of my favorite images ever.

It may not be weather resistant, but it does feature OIS (optical image stabilization) to ensure your shots are as sharp as possible at lower shutter speeds. It’s a variable aperture zoom lens, meaning that the maximum aperture changes as you zoom through the range. However, you can still shoot at f/2.8 at the 18mm focal length, and f/4 at the 55mm end. It’s a top lens for landscape, cityscape, and portraits.

Best kit under 1kg

Camera body: X-T30
Lenses: XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS + XF 35mm f/1.4 R
Approximate weight: 880 grams

My picks for the best kit weighing under 1kg include the same choices as the ‘One body plus one lens’ kit above, with the addition of the XF 35mm f/1.4 R. The first time I used this lens, I was blown away by its sharpness and stunning bokeh. It’s a top lens for portraits, still life subjects and even street shooting.

It did have a reputation of being slow to focus, but with Fujifilm’s ongoing firmware updates to both lenses and camera bodies, this has greatly improved. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in any situation. This lens has a fast maximum aperture of f/1.4 that enables you to shoot images handheld at night without raising the ISO too high or lowering the shutter speed too low.

One zoom, two fast primes kit

Camera bodies: X-T30
Lenses: XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS + XF 35 1.4 R + XF 60mm f2.4 R Macro
Approximate weight: 1.095kg

For a lightweight travel kit weighing just over 1kg and featuring two fast prime lenses, add the XF 60mm f/2.4 R Macro to the kit above. This is another option often overlooked by newer lenses on the block, but it offers superb image quality for portraits and macro shots.

Although it’s not a true macro lens (it offers 1:2 magnification rather than the standard 1:1 magnification for a true macro lens), it is an incredibly light option for close up shots. It weighs less than a third of the weight of Fujifilm’s XF 80mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro lens.

Best weather resistant kit

Camera bodies: X-T3
Lenses: XF 16mm F1.4 R WR, 23f2, XF 50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR.
Approximate weight: 2.6 kg check

The best weather resistant kit features Fujifilm’s newest X-Series flagship camera. The X-T3 has won high praise from users and critics alike since its release in mid-2018. It is an impressive performer, having the fastest autofocus in the X-Series lineup and a continuous shooting rate of up to 20 frames per second. I’ve really enjoyed using this camera alongside my X-T2, which is still an excellent camera.

The newcomer to this kit is the XF 16 f/1.4 WR lens – often praised as the best lens in the X-Series lineup. Weather resistant, the lens is optically stunning, and a solid performer for landscape, cityscape, and low light shots. With a close focusing distance of 15cm, the XF 16 f1.4 WR lens is highly versatile. I’ve loved using it for food photography.

Best travel kit with zoom lenses

Camera bodies: X-T3 and X-T30
Lenses: XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS and XF 50-140mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR.
Weight: 1.8kg

This kit gives you the best of both worlds: the light X-T30 with the XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS lens, and a weather resistant combo of the X-T3 with the stunning XF 50-140mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR lens.

Weighing in at 995 grams, you might actually question why I would choose this lens as part of a travel kit? I’ve even been laughed at when I’ve suggested this lens for travel. Although it’s heavy, this lens is a must-have in my travel photography kit.

Like an equivalent focal range 70-200mm, the lens has a constant maximum aperture of f/2.8, meaning that you can shoot with a shallow depth of field throughout the zoom range. This is particularly helpful during low light situations, or to achieve shallow depth of field at any time.

This XF 50-140mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR lens also features OIS (optical image stabilization) and has a pleasing bokeh. I’ve used this lens for landscape, cityscape, and portraits. If I could only pick one lens for travel, I’d have to flip a coin to choose between the two amazing zooms in this kit.

If you have different weight or budget considerations, you could substitute the excellent XF 55-200mm F/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS lens in this kit. I’ve never regretted taking this lens along with me on trips, but if you plan on shooting in low light at the far range of the zoom, you will be shooting at a maximum aperture of f/4.8, which may slow down shutter speeds. Thankfully, this is another lens with OIS (optical image stabilization).

My favorite kit

Camera bodies: X-T3 and X-T2
Lenses: XF 16mm F/1.4 R WR + XF 18-55mm F/2.8-4 R LM OIS + XF 35mm f/1.4 R + XF 50-140mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR
Approximate weight: 2.9 kg

This is my favorite kit. It may be the heaviest listed in this list, but this is what I would typically take on my travel adventures. It pairs two weather resistant camera bodies with my two favorite zooms and two favorite primes. This kit has a reach from 16-140mm (24-210 in full-frame terms) and covers many shooting situations. The XF 50-140mm F/2.8 R LM OIS WR lens may not be the longest in the X-Series lineup, but it’s still capable of capturing stunning wildlife images.

X-Series options I don’t recommend for travel kits

X-T100

In 2018, Fujifilm released the entry-level X-T100. Although this attractive looking camera looks very much like the rest of the X-Series line-up, its autofocus can’t match the cameras I’ve featured above.

18-135mm lens

The XF18-135mm lens is often on the list of recommended lenses for Fujifilm travel photography. Having owned and used one, it doesn’t make my list. For a slower, all-in-one travel zoom, I don’t think it has enough reach.

27mm lens

The 27mm F/2.8 pancake lens is sharp, and you can often buy them at a bargain price. It’s a firm favorite amongst many Fujifilm photographers, but it doesn’t make my list as it’s the only lens in the lineup not to have a ring on the lens to change aperture.

Conclusion

The Fujifilm X-Series range is perfect for travel photographers for so many reasons.

With an impressive lineup of prime and zoom lenses for all budgets, the X-Series has you covered for a wide range of situations including low light photography and adverse weather conditions. The camera bodies feature retro charm and excellent ergonomics, and no other system can match the beauty of Fujifilm’s straight out of camera JPGs.

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How to Photograph Birds

A Post By: Darren Rowse

The following tip has been submitted by Phillip Kirkham, a reader of DPS and avid wildlife photographer – see his own website (the source of all bird photos in this post). You can also read more about him at the end of his article.

How to photograph birds

Unfortunately, July and August are probably the worst months of the year for this task because most species look their worst just now, and also vegetation and food supply is at its best, so it is difficult enough just to see the birds, never mind pointing a lens at them. However, a few helpful tips now should prepare you for the Autumn months when many species are busily eating and hiding food ready for the long winter months ahead.

Perhaps if I take you through the various steps which I make when embarking on a typical bird photographic outing:-

1. Venue, where to visit and when. If my trip is to be a known reserve, then some local knowledge before I set out is invaluable. What species will I encounter? Are there hides available and which way do they face in relation to the sun? How near to the subject I am likely to be? What is the weather forecast for the area I am going?

2. Following on from point 1, if there is no hide available then will I be allowed to erect a temporary one, or can I get near enough to my subject in my car. The vehicle makes a surprisingly useful hide, with many species being quite unafraid of them. So long as you make no fast movements, and I always have the camera pointing out of the window before I approach my subject. Beanbags are particularly useful for this, and here’s a little tip, fill them with sunflower seeds, you can always use a few to attract your subject even closer!

3. Equipment. I always take more than I need, but if you have made a long journey for that special species there is nothing worse than to find you’ve run out of battery or memory and haven’t got back up. It is also important to note that for bird photography, you inevitably need to be very near AND have plenty of magnification. A blue tit at 20 metres looks very small, even with an 800mm lens! Don’t forget the tripod.

4. Once at the destination, cameras on tripod, pointing in direction of birds remember about composing the shot. I always like to set out with an image in my mind, and return with it in my camera. Don’t get so excited at first glimpse of the species that you forget to check those dials. Higher ISO makes it easier to choose higher film speed. I nearly always choose Av priority, so I know what F stop I am on (for instance F5.6) and that should give me a fast enough film speed to avoid blur from the bird’s movement. I will then compose the bird in the viewfinder AND PAY ATTENTION TO BACKGROUND DETAIL. After capturing 20 images or so, I will then start to alter settings and orientation; this can often make the difference between an ordinary “keeper” and an outstanding winner.

5. Body Language. I realise that this is part of paragraph 4 above, but it is so important that I have given it a paragraph of its own. Intimate wildlife knowledge can be learnt to a lesser extent from others, but to a far greater extent by just watching and listening wildlife. It can be the body language of the subject that results in the one in a lifetime photograph. A naturally relaxed bird will have its feathers quite loose, but just before flight they will all tense, if you see this and start clicking the shutter at the right time it can result in a wonderful “take off” image. When I was in S Africa, I noticed a bull elephant start twitching his tail and becoming very agitated, I then quickly changed to a more open lens and just in time to capture him charging at another bull and engaging in quite a tussle.

6. The eye has it. In 99% of wildlife images it is vital to get the eye in focus, wings can be blurred, parts can be missed, but remember, keep the eye in focus – nice and sharp.

7. Processing. I take virtually all my images in RAW format. This allows much more flexibility when processing. In particular, white balance, ie temperature variation, of your shot can be adjusted to get your colours dead right, and this is so important with wildlife photography. Once you have cropped and carried out the various adjustments such as colour, levels, curves, saturation and the rest to your image, the final task should be USM. I usually apply : Amount 90%, Radius 0.3, Threshold 1. I repeat this four or five times until a small white halo starts to appear around the subject, then back off once in the Photoshop history.

8. Library. It is all too easy to take literally thousands of images using digital, so remember to have some type of system for storing and cataloguing your images, so that you can quickly return to them as desired.

Finally, please remember that we are only visitors to this world, so when out enjoying wildlife take only photographs and leave nothing but time.

About Phillip Kirkham – I am 56 and live with my wife in a cottage by the sea on the Isle of Bute, Scotland. I moved here to become a full time freelance photographer, concentrating on wildlife. I have spent the last 4 years seriously capturing wildlife images, starting mainly with birds, but now photographing anything that moves, from tiny orange soldier beetles to bull elephants fighting. I only use digital cameras, my weaponry consisting of Canon 1DS2, 1D2, 20D, and assorted lenses from 20mm through macro 180mm, up to 800mm. Tripods consist of Gitzo with Wimberley head for telephoto work and Manfrotto Neotec with multi angled head for landscapes and macro I use Photoshop CS2 for all my processing and have 4 Epson printers, up to A2 size. I have my own web site and am a moderator on the superb website of the United Kingdom Nature Photographers, a place where wildlife photographers share invaluable tips and knowledge.

I also run photography workshops in the grounds of Mount Stuart, here on Bute.

See Phillip’s photos at Nature Photography by Phillip Kirkham.

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Free Photography books to Download Today

Below are several free photography books which are recommended time and time again, and for good reason.

If you enjoy the free photography books, make sure you visit the sites below to leave comments/thank the authors for their hard work.

Creative Lens Techniques – by Photo Answers

Selective focus and hyperfocal distance are two of the topics covered in this interesting read by Jessops and Photo Answers magazine.

Before The Shutter: Planning Your Next Travel Photography Adventure by Anne McKinnell

An interesting read on a topic that’s not very often discussed – the planning that goes behind a photography trip. You’ll learn essential tips and techniques to get the most from your next trip, to be well prepared before you even pick up your camera.

Starting a Photo Business – by Photo Shelter

These guys know what they’re talking about when it comes to building a successful photography business. If you need a hand with where to start, check out this free ebook.

Insights from Beyond the Lens – Inside The Art and Craft of Landscape Photography – by Robert Rodriguez Jr

Stunning landscape photography and an entertaining read about  a journey to discover the art, craft and passion that lies behind landscape photography.

A Photographer’s E-Guide to Making Sharp Photographs – by Scott Bourne

Getting sharp photos isn’t just about your shutter speed. Learn the tips and tricks to a razor sharp photo in this great free ebook by one of the industry’s greats.

Nine Motivational Essays on Photography – by Scott Bourne

A break from the technical stuff with this inspirational free photography ebook based on Scott’s own experiences in the field.

The Photographer’s Social Media Handbook – by Photo Shelter

Even though some of the information in this free ebook by Photo Shelter is dated, there’s still a lot of useful tips that can guide you through the social media maze. There’s a more up to date (2016) guide to social media available by Shoot Dot Edit but I was unable to download it for you at this time due to their server error – you may have better luck.

20 Indispensable Photo Tips – by Ian Plant

Ian kindly shared his photography gear and favourite wildlife and landscape work on Shotkit recently and I urge you to check out his free photography ebook.

Going Candid – by Thomas Leuthard

The first ebook of Thomas Leuthard where he describes the basics of Street Photography based on his own experiences pounding the pavement.

The Heart of Portraiture: Examples of Portrait Photography – by Don Giannatti

20 examples of portrait photography and a discussion on the technique and thought process that went into shooting them, all from photographer and author of Lighting Essentials.

31 Days to Overcome Your Fear of Shooting Street Photography – by Eric Kim

Eric is a wealth of knowledge on the topic of street photography. His fearless attitude when it comes to getting the shot is explained in this free photography ebook. Never fear pressing the shutter on the street again!

13 Tips for Wildlife Photography  – by Photo Naturalist

Essential reading for your next safari trip to Africa, or simply when you feel like taking a walk on the wild side, camera in hand!

Essays on Inspiration, Creativity & Vision in Photography – by Scott Bourne

Another interesting free read by Scott Bourne, this time on how he maintains creativity in his work.

Five Easy Steps To Shoot In Manual Mode – by Kimberly Gauthier

Shooting in manual mode is essential for your advancement as a photographer. This free ebook does a good job in breaking down the steps necessary to make that jump.

How to Take Stunning Food Photos – by Learn Food Photography

Whether you want to become a professional food photographer or just want some tips to make your Instagram updates look their best, this free ebook will help.

Shooting Black & White on your dSLR – by Photo Answers

Free books do have their limits though, so if you’d like to go further in depth on the vast topic of photography, try these...

https://resources.digital-photography-school.com/ref/937/http://