10 Photography Accessories You Can Buy at the Supermarket

By: Ivo Guimaraes

Let’s face it, we photographers are always looking for new stuff to add to our bag of tricks.
As a studio photographer with almost 20 years experience, I have found myself repurposing a lot of stuff to use as photography tools in my photoshoots. I came to the conclusion that most of the stuff I have around the studio, or in my camera bag didn’t came from photography equipment stores, but rather from the supermarket, home improvement stores, or even one dollar stores.
Here is a small list of items that you can find easily in a store near you, which might help out a lot in your future photo projects:

1 – Cupcake nozzles

These nozzles are used by bakers to decorate cakes, and you can find them in many shapes and sizes. If you take them out of context, they make great light modifiers when used in front of a flashlight, allowing you to shape and control your light, when you want to do some light painting for example.

2 – Shower caps

This is something you can buy really cheap or even get for free in hotel rooms. I always have some laying around in my camera bag, and I use the white ones as light diffusers for flash or LED lights.

I also use the transparent ones as a rain cover for the camera body. It’s not something for heavy rainfall, but it can save your equipment in an emergency situation, and you can still see the LCD and camera buttons with it.

3 – LED light strips

These lights can be carried anywhere as they work with 3 AA batteries, and can be used in lots of different situations. I used them a lot as macro ring lights with the strip wrapped around my lens shade.

These lights are also great to create light bokeh backgrounds, just put them over a black surface and turn your lens out of focus.

4 – Multi-Purpose Opener

This tool is made to be used around the kitchen, but I have been using it for years in my studio for a lot of different purposes.

The main use I have for it is for that really frustrating task of trying to unscrew a stuck filter on the front of your lens. Even though there are specific clip plastic tools for that job that you can buy in photography stores, I always find myself breaking them or scratching some really expensive filter.
This multi-purpose opener has a rubberized inside and offers a much better grip, besides fitting every filter size you might have.

It is also able to open any metal or screw cap bottle if you happen to get thirsty, and, last but not least, it is a great tool to open stuck thumb screws like the one you find on tripods or light stands for example.

5 – Glow Stir Sticks

These glow sticks, besides being a must at any cocktail party, are also really fun to use as a light source for light painting. They can be found in different colors and sizes and can glow for a few hours, allowing you to make fun images like this next one.

6 – Shower Curtains

Shower curtains are usually made out of plastic or waterproofed fabric. They are really cheap and can be used as great accessories for light control.
I use white ones a lot as light diffusers, black ones as flags, and grey ones as backgrounds, but there is a lot that can be done with colorful ones for backgrounds or light color effects.

7 – Ball Bungee Ties

It’s amazing what some elastic cord and a plastic ball can do together. This simple, but really effective tool, is used most of the time to tie cables, but there are a lot more uses for it. I use them a lot to hold my flash triggers to the light stand.

8 – Spring Clamps

I lost count of how many of these I bought through the years. Every time I see them on sale anywhere, I just buy a few more.
These are a must have item in any photography studio, whether it is to make your model’s clothes fit a little better, to hold cables and power cords in place so I don’t trip on them, or simply to hold that reflector in that position that will provide the best reflection possible.

9 – Express Grill Pan

These pans made out aluminum foil are great if you want to make a barbecue in a rush. But they’re also great to use as gobos that you can use in front of your light source to create special light effects.

10 – Reusable Putty-Like Adhesive

This type of adhesive is a lifesaver for product and macro photographers that need to keep small objects in a specific position.
It is moldable, reusable, and doesn’t leave any residue when you remove it. I use it a lot in jewelry photography to keep things in place, and just remove it (clone it out) in post-production afterwards.

So, keep these tips in mind next time you are dragging your shopping cart down the supermarket aisles. Maybe you can find some great accessories for your photography!

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How to Buy Camera Gear Wisely and Save Money

By: Erinna Ford

Many photographers have experienced lens-lust or gear envy, and know the thrill of playing with a new piece of camera gear. But gear can be expensive, and choosing the wrong equipment can be a costly mistake. So how do you know you are purchasing the correct gear, and ensuring that it won’t end up in a cupboard collecting dust?
Here are five tips to help you choose and buy camera gear wisely, and maybe save a little bit of money at the same time.

1. What do you really need?

If you often photograph in tight spaces, or want to explore landscape or architecture
photography, a wide angle lens is perfect.

I always advocate working with your current gear until you start to feel its limitations. This way you will have a clearer idea of what specifications or items will help you grow further as a photographer.
If you feel that you’ve reached these limits, but are still confused about which piece of equipment you should buy as your first priority, try taking a few notes during your next shoot. Where do you get stuck? What frustrates you? What would make your photography life easier? What will you be photographing? And what is your next goal? Asking yourself these questions will help refine exactly what you need from your next purchase.
For example, do you wish that your lens would shoot wider, or zoom in closer? Perhaps you really want to try macro photography, or need a tripod to try slow shutter speed waterscapes?

A zoom lens can be really useful, allowing you to use it across numerous photography
genres from portraiture, events, and even landscapes.

If you shoot a lot of landscapes or architecture, a wide angle lens will be more useful than a telephoto lens. Alternatively, if you photograph families, children, or events, a zoom lens may make it easier to respond quicker to impromptu moments, rather than a prime fixed-focal length lens.
Also, will you fully understand and use all the wonderful aspects of the new equipment? Will it be beneficial to your photography, or will it be so complex that it will frustrate you?
For example, should you spend a lot of money on a professional level lens that shoots at f/2.8 if you do not know anything about depth of field? Do you like the effect of f/2.8? Will you use it regularly? Or would a less expensive lens that goes to f/5.6 do everything you need it to?

A macro lens won’t help with room interior photographs, but is perfect for capturing close up shots of flowers and insects.

Similarly, if you’ve only been shooting on auto-modes, purchasing a camera that has mostly manual options may not be the best choice. Instead, consider a mid-range camera that offers both auto and manual modes, so you can try more advanced techniques, as well as take it out just for fun.
Make a decision about what you really need from your gear, and remember – it’s okay to stick with the equipment you currently own until you are 100% sure of your choice.

2. Know your budget

Unfortunately we do not all have limitless bank accounts, and will have to make decision on how much we can spend. It is a balancing act between deciding on your budget, and researching the actual cost of items. You could choose to spend a bit more now on one item that will fulfil your needs for the long term, or spend less on an entry-level option to build up your experience.

It is important to stick within your budget. If you can’t stretch to afford your ideal gear,
consider other options such as buying second-hand, less expensive options, renting, or
waiting for the next sale.

Sometimes however what you really want is simply too expensive, so you can choose to 

wait for the next big sale or look at alternatives, and that’s perfectly okay too. Another 

option would be to buy the absolute necessities now, while saving for the next items. If 

you discover you need it sooner, and have not saved enough yet, you can choose to rent 

gear as needed.
Many stores now also offer payment plans that allow you to take the gear home and pay 

it off in weekly instalments. This can certainly help with cash flow, but always read the 

small print, and check the interest rate to see if it will suit your situation.

3. Do your research

The images above were shot with two different 50mm lenses, using their largest apertures. Do you think you would notice the difference in your own shots? Is it worth the price difference? Flickr can also be a great way to see examples of images taken using specific equipment.
There are so many opinions and reviews posted online that it is easier than ever to do your research. Read personal opinions, website reviews, as well as manufacturers’ specifications, to give you a well rounded opinion and compare them to what you are looking at purchasing. YouTube is a great resource for tutorials, reviews, and box openings. Flickr is also be a good place to find images that have been tagged as being shot with a specific lens or camera – it is a great way to see real-life results.
Your local camera store should not be overlooked either. Go in for a browse, play with the items, listen to advice, and go back a few times if you’re unsure and want to become more familiar with the item before buying it. You want to ensure you are comfortable with the gear you are purchasing, and that it does exactly what you want it to.

Here are two different Canon 50mm lenses – one with a maximum aperture of f/1.2 on the
left, and the other f/1.8 on the right. Both offer a shallow depth of field, but the prices are
vastly different.

Editor’s note: Canon has three 50mm lenses: The f/1.8 version at $125 (shown above right), 

the f/1.4 version at about $349 (not pictured), and the f/1.2 monster (above left) which will 

run you a whopping $1349.
If you’re trying out new lenses or a flash, take your camera into the store with a fresh battery and memory card, attach the lens/flash and take a few photos. Test it out in store, see how it works, then go home and review the images. If you’re looking at a new camera body, take your favourite lens and a memory card and do the same. All gear has an adjustment period for becoming familiar with settings and button locations, so this will give you a head start, and an idea of the weight and shape of the item, something you can’t experience by online shopping.
Helpful and knowledgeable salespeople are also invaluable. Many camera store staff on a commission-based pay structure can often be motivated to make a higher-priced sale, so may push you toward the more expensive option. There are those, however, who will provide good advice and non-pushy service, with the hope you will come back to them when you’re ready to buy. If the price is right, it is always good to support your friendly local camera store, as they can be an invaluable resource, especially if something goes wrong.

4. Consider renting

Many camera stores and online services offer the opportunity to rent higher priced and
specialist equipment. This can be a great way to try before you buy, or to hire gear for
one-off assignments.

Did you know you can rent equipment such as lenses and camera bodies, as well as studio flash kits? Many professional photography stores offer this service, and there are several online camera rental services as well.
This option is great for when you are considering professional level gear, or something for a special technical application. You have the opportunity to rent the gear for a day, weekend, or a week, which is a great way to try before you buy.
It is not only a good option for researching a new purchase, but you can hire specialist equipment needed for one-off jobs (like a macro or tilt-shift lens for example), without the cost of purchasing it outright, and with the added advantage of claiming the hire expense as a business expense. A security bond is usually charged, so be sure to read the fine print for the rental terms and conditions.

5. Look for the less expensive option

The price difference between a close-up filter set and a dedicated macro lens is over $1,000. 

Each has its own effects, but both are capable of producing quality, and interesting
photographs.

If you cannot afford your preferred brand or wish-list item, try searching for a less expensive option. This could mean waiting for a camera sale, purchasing second-hand, a lesser-known brand, or even an alternative method to achieve the same result. These options can be a great way to expand the gear in your camera bag and try new techniques, without spending quite as much money.
For example, we all agree that an f/1.2 lens is drool-worthy, but would the f/1.4 version do almost as good a job? Or instead of purchasing a special macro lens, would close-up filters work instead? Generic, or lesser known brands, are another less expensive option, although they may not have the same quality or life expectancy as the branded versions.
Purchasing second hand equipment may be risky, but with some research, and by asking the right questions, you can often find a bargain. Always consider how much wear and tear the item has had, who has owned it before, and how much life is still left in it. A wedding photographer, for example, will often upgrade their gear and sell off their old cameras. While it might look like a great deal, it’s worth keeping in mind that their gear may have been subject to a lot of wear and tear.

The same subject, photographed using two different systems – a close-up filter, and a
 macro lens. 

Both images were photographed at f/2.8. Filters often create softer images, but are an
inexpensive way to enter the world of macro photography.

Scratches and marks can be forgiven, provided they do not affect proper function, while some items have a limited lifetime. When considering a second-hand camera, ask about its shutter actuation, or shutter count, and then compare it to the camera’s life expectancy. This will give you an idea of how many more photos the camera can capture, before the shutter may fail. If photography is your hobby it may take you years to reach this limit, whereas if you’re shooting weddings every week you will reach this number sooner. Shutters are replaceable but it can be expensive, and often camera replacement is more cost effective.
Many of these alternative options are available to purchase in your local camera store, or online. In regards purchasing of second hand equipment, it is worth being cautious: ask lots of questions, request photographs, ask about any return policy, and if you do go ahead, purchasing insurance on postage.
  Hopefully these tips will assist you in choosing your next purchase wisely, one that suits your needs perfectly, and may even help you save a little bit of money too – who knows, maybe just enough to afford that other item you want?
The most important thing, however, is that you use your new gear and enjoy your continuing journey in photography.

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How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

By: Jacob Surland

Semi black and white or selective color photos are quite effective. It’s an old trick by some photographers considered a cheap trick, nevertheless, it is a quite effective one. And just because it’s an old idea it should not hold you back from experimenting with it.

A selective color photograph of the Viking ship “The Sea Stallion” in Roskilde, Denmark.

In this article, you will learn a couple of different ways to make selective color photos and you how to spot or photograph the candidates. It’s not a technique that is applicable to all photographs, but for some, it can make a big difference.
You most likely already know some famous selective color photos. A classic image is of a 7-year old boy kissing a 7-year old girl while holding a red rose, where the flower is the only thing in color. Or a photo of a red bicycle, and everything else but the bicycle is black and white.
These examples are probably part of the reason the technique is considered a cheap trick.

Background information

Before diving into the technique, you might want to know the theory. The pioneer landscape photographer Ansel Adams used a technique in his darkroom to change the exposure locally on various parts of a photo. This way he could make some areas brighter and others darker.
The human eye naturally seeks the brighter parts of a photo and by using this knowledge, Ansel Adams could emphasize what he wanted and guide the viewer around in his photos. This technique is called dodging and burning.

You can use a similar technique with colors. Just as the human eye is attracted to bright areas in an image, it is also attracted to more saturated areas. In this way, it is very similar to dodging and burning. You can use this as a tool to guide the viewer’s eye around a photo.
Just to be clear: It is the difference in saturation that the eye can spot not just high saturation. If you have even saturation all over your photo, you can’t control the eye through color. Increasing or decreasing the overall saturation will not change that situation and if everything gets too saturated it often becomes painful to look at.
If you only turn up the saturation on certain objects of interest in your photo, the eye will seek those out. This way you will be able to guide the viewer to the important objects in your photo.

You can achieve the same effect by decreasing the saturation from everything else but the subject. If you go to the extreme end and completely remove all color, except a few elements, you will have a semi-black and white or selective color photo.
By using this technique you will create stronger photos.

The classic technique to create selective color photos

You can create the classic “boy kisses girl” or “red bike” photographs, but you can also go searching for something else. This example is from the famous Nyhavn in Copenhagen. These old houses are very colorful, which can look great, but also can be quite an eyeful of colors.

By removing colors from all houses except the two yellow ones, the attention is strong on those two houses. Any house or two houses picked to be saturated, would attract attention, but the two picked are good candidates, because:

1. They are both the same color, which creates balance.
2. They are approximately the same size, which also adds to creating balance.
3. Most importantly, they have symmetrical placement in the photo.

Composition

Notice that the houses are placed the same distance from the edge of the frame. That emphasizes the composition and makes it a stronger photo than most other available choices.
Notice also that the windows between the two yellow houses have some color. That is a spice that allows the viewer to discover more subtle details, making the image more interesting to look at.

You can use the selective color approach to create a different kind of composition within your photo. You can plan this when you are photographing. Or, as I did in this case, you can discover it when you post-process the photos. It is the final result that counts, not the path you chose to get there.
The next photo is a similar example from a metro station. Again you can see the clearly separated colored stairs. Just like before, you can also find a little spice in the blue color added to the stairs. You can do that kind of trick to make the image more intriguing.

If you want to create photographs like these, search for something that you can make stand out. Then frame it, like it was more or less the only object within the frame. You have to think of it as a very simple composition, even if it is a busy scene.
When you desaturate the rest of the image, the balance will change. The colored elements will be the primary focus points, regardless of everything else in the photo.

How to make a classic selective color photo

There are several ways to do this, in this example, you will learn an easy-to-learn approach in Adobe Lightroom. First, you have to find the photo that you want to work on and then follow these steps.

Step 1 – Go to the Development Module

Step 2 – Pick the Adjustment Brush tool

Step 3 – Set brush settings

At first, make sure you have edge detection (Auto Mask) disabled and the brush is at 100% flow and 100% density. Then reset all settings (double-click on the word Effect) except Saturation, which you will then set to -100.

Step 4 – Paint everything black and white

Step 5 – Switch to the Erase brush

Step 6 – Paint in the objects you want to have color

Set the size of the brush to something that is fitting for your subject and paint roughly over it. The Erase Brush will remove the black and white, and you will get a colored object.

Step 7 – Zoom in and make sure you have the edges right

Next Zoom in (press Z) and switch between the Brush and the Erase Brush to make a perfect edge.
Depending on your photo, you may have to use either Feather at 0 or you may be able to use Auto Mask, which is the automatic edge detection. In this case, the Auto Mask cannot figure out the edge and I had to use a brush at 0 Feather (hard edge brush).

Remove some colors

You can also use a different approach. Instead of limiting the colors to a specific object, you can remove certain colors. This approach works well on photos that have unwanted colors or a color cast.
In the example below of the Vikingship, the photograph was shot during the blue hour. Because the blue light reflects in the snow it becomes too much and it is not flattering. By removing the Blues and the Cyan/Aquas the photo changes and becomes a piece of fine art. Use the HSL panel to do this.

Just by removing blue and cyan/aqua a photo can become a piece of fine art.

This technique gives photos that have a much more complex separation between the black and white and the colored elements and the viewer can go searching for details. In the photo above, you can find a second Viking ship with Christmas lights on in the background.

Here’s another example from The Scoop in London. There was a light drizzle, which was enough for the blue light to shine and appear to glow into the air. By removing all other colors than blue and purple the photo is changed dramatically.

This third photograph below is from a train station in Geneva.

If you study the photos you can see the colored selections are much more complex and not something you can do by hand.
The photograph from London is about the shape of The Scoop. The original photograph had an orange sky, which did not work well with the blue light of The Scoop. By using the selective color black and white technique, the focus is on The Scoop.

How to remove individual colors

You can very easily remove specific colors in Adobe Lightroom. Find the photo you want to work with.

Step 1 – Go to the Develop Module

Step 2 – Go to the HSL module

Play with pulling some of the sliders to zero and leaving some at 100. You may have to dial several of the sliders to zero to achieve the desired effect.

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