7 Travel Photography Hacks to Get You Going Places

By: Nisha Ramroop

One of the joys of travel is capturing all the new and exciting destination sites from your own perspective. Sometimes you make conscious decisions of what to leave behind and other times you realize you forgot to bring something, only after you got there. Whatever the case, a few travel photography hacks can help you save the day!

#Light#Shotlist#Photography

1. Pack Light

Many times, the biggest challenge in travel photography is whether or not you will be able to capture the essence of the place with the gear you packed. If you are going on vacation, you certainly do not want to take every lens you own. Other than adding weight, there is a chance that much of it will not be used.

This is a good reason to research your destination is to help determine what images you want to capture. Are you going to shoot more landscape scenery or trying to capture the people living there? Your decision will affect what gear you take with you.

Additionally, a great way to determine what to take is by reviewing your last trip. Look at what you captured then and decide if it is similar to what you hope to capture now. Many times you will find that most of your photos were taken with the same lens. You can use Lightroom’s filtering system to gather that intel.
For example, if you took both a wide and long zoom lens, but took most shots with the wide lens, then you can safely leave your long zoom behind.

2. Pack Smart

When you decide which lenses you need for your trip, pack well to protect them. It helps to remember that lenses are made mostly of glass, even when built with highly durable exterior bodies. An easy packing hack to avoid damaging your lenses is putting them inside thick socks. This cushions your lens during travel, whether inside your luggage (carry-on only, never check your valuable camera gear) or camera bag.

Optional: further secure your lenses by putting them (sock-wrapped) into shoes/boots.

3. Make a Shot List

You do not have to be a professional photographer to make a shot list. As you research your destination, there are no doubt certain things that you want to see and experience there. As you plan your itinerary, you can make a note of what you want to capture in that location.

Take a note of your different points of interest and how you plan to shoot them. Sometimes this simple action can keep you from being overwhelmed when you get there. This will also help you determine what gear to pack (mentioned above).

4. No Neutral Density Filter, No Problem

If you did not pack neutral density filters for your trip, there is no need to kick yourself if an opportunity for a long exposure presents itself. It does take a little familiarity and processing in Photoshop, though. Compose your image and take between 15-20 shots with that composition.

15 shots taken of the same scene in short intervals.

You need to shoot in burst mode or ensure that the intervals between your shots are as small as possible. Download your images and load them into Photoshop as layers.

15 shots loaded into Photoshop Layers.

Select Auto-Align Layers from the Edit Menu and Auto. Click OK when done. Next, convert your layers into Smart Objects. You do this by selecting the Layer menu, Smart Object and Convert to Smart Object. This step may take a few minutes to process.
When that is finished, go back to your Layer menu and Smart Objects. In Stack Mode, choose Mean (or Median also works well). This process also takes a few minutes to run.

The result, silky smooth water as if it had been shot with a neutral density filter and really long exposure.
Bonus Tip: This method can also help you remove people from your photos.

5. Tripod or Not?

A tripod is that piece of gear that you benefit tremendously from, but when traveling you may be willing to concede. Again it comes down to when and what you are shooting. If you plan on capturing nightscapes or moving subjects, a tripod is a necessity. A good compromise is a tripod that converts to a monopod.

Conversely you can leave the tripod at home. Depending on where you are going, a tripod can become a nuisance to lug around or may not even be allowed. This is when you have to get creative and make a supporting object your tripod. Tables, walls, rocks or anything stationary which supports your camera will stand-in for a tripod.

6. Batch It!

Chances are that you will shoot a number of images in one location with the same lighting and conditions. A quick way to edit a large number of photos with your style is to batch process them. Batch processing is applying the same edit across multiple images. In addition to Photoshop and Lightroom, there is other photo editing software available that can help you achieve this.

7. Let’s Reflect

There is no need to walk with a bulky or expensive reflector on your trip. Buy a piece of foam board to bounce light into your shadows. This cheap trick can save you from packing more and you only need apply it to some situations.

With travel photography, most times you want to walk around with less gear (for both your comfort and safety). Once you have done your research and know what you want to achieve, there is no need to go with equipment that you will not use. Sometimes a few travel photography hacks can save you in a pinch.
Please share some of your favorites with us in the comments area below.

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Beginners Guide to Different Types of Digital Cameras

By: Kav Dadfar

There is no shortage of digital cameras these days. But for any beginner in photography, it can be a daunting prospect trying to settle on the right one for them. Understanding how the different types of cameras differ could give you a good indication of which one might be right for you. Let’s take a look at a few options:

Standard Compact

By jeff_golden

Small, light and fairly cheap, standard compact cameras (also known as Point and Shoots) are usually the basic entry model into the digital photography lineup. They are normally fully automatic, but some do offer some manual exposure options. They would usually have a zoom lens (4-10x) which folds into the camera, a built-in flash, and an LCD screen on the back (no eye viewfinder). Prices usually start from around $85, and can go up to over $400 for the more high-end versions. These might include additional features such as HD video recording, image stabilization, and sometimes Wi-Fi connectivity, which allows for instant upload of photos onto to social network sites.

• Pros: Inexpensive, light, and a good basic option if you want a camera for personal use.
• Cons: Limited manual exposure options. Not good enough quality (they have very small sensors) of finished files for professional use. No interchangeable lenses.

Zoom Compact

By Carl Berger Sr

Zoom compacts are pretty similar to standard compact camera, but usually benefit from a more powerful zoom lens (which can be as high as 30x). These cameras tend to be a little more robust and are generally larger in size than standard compacts. Most would have some manual exposure options, as well as automatic, and usually offer HD video recording. They tend to start at a slightly higher price of around $150 with luxury models over $500. Some will offer additional features, such as GPS for automatic geotagging, which is great for when you are travelling.

• Pros: Still fairly inexpensive, pretty robust with a powerful zoom, a good option for personal use.
• Cons: Photo quality not good enough for making large prints or for professional use. No interchangeable lenses.

Adventure Cameras

These types of cameras tend to be similar to compacts, but are designed to withstand the elements. They’re usually waterproof, shock proof, and some recent models are even freeze proof. They usually offer some limited manual exposure options, and a zoom closer to the standard compact (rather than a zoom compact) which is behind toughened glass. With a starting price of around $120, they are a good option if you are after a basic camera that can withstand some extreme conditions. More advanced models will be upwards of $500.

• Pros: Tough build makes them ideal for use in extreme conditions for personal use.
• Cons: Limited zoom and exposure options, coupled with smaller sensor and photo quality not being good enough to make large prints or for professional use. No interchangeable lenses.

Advanced Compact

By K?rlis Dambr?ns

These cameras are designed for more experienced photographers and those who require more versatility, quality, and creative features. Options such as manual exposure mode and manual focusing features, optical viewfinders, and external flash connections, make these cameras a good option for photographers who want more control over their photos. But these features mean they are usually considerably more expensive than other types of compacts cameras. Prices can range from $400, to in excess of $700 for cameras with smaller sensors, and $700 to over $1000 for those with larger sensors.

• Pros: Small, compact and lightweight and still relatively inexpensive.
• Cons: Limited features for more advanced photographers. No interchangeable lenses.

Super-zoom

Super-zoom cameras have been falling out of favor in recent years. These cameras used to be the stepping stone between compact cameras and DSLRs (which is why they are called bridge cameras), but with the advances in compact cameras and CSCs (Compact system cameras) more and more people are now foregoing super-zooms. Usually fairly large with an SLR type body, which means hand-grips and an electronic viewfinder, these cameras often benefit from powerful zoom lenses, and image stabilization. Some will have HD video recording and a good set of manual exposure options, and vary from around $250 to $700 or more for advanced models.

• Pros: A sturdier body than compact cameras and good set of manual exposure features.
• Cons: Neither here nor there. Not as advanced as DSLRs and not as convenient as compact cameras. No interchangeable lenses.

Smartphone Cameras

The explosion of smart phones is arguably the biggest thing to happen to photography since digital technology. The convenience and readiness of smart phones mean that not only is there greater competition than ever, but also better opportunities for capturing those fleeting moments. Some smart phones are now capable of capturing photos at 16 megapixels, and offer a great low-light capability. Features and prices vary hugely from model to model and manufacturers, so it pays to do some research.

• Pros: Lightweight, compact and always by your side, ready to shoot.
• Cons: Image quality and size not good enough for high end or professional use. No interchangeable lenses.

Compact (Mirrorless) System Cameras

Compact system (mirrorless) cameras benefit from having interchangeable lenses, which means far greater control for photographers than standard compact cameras. They offer most of the features and capabilities of SLR cameras, but with the added benefit of being lightweight, smaller and generally less expensive. These cameras offer a great option for hobby photographers who want to extend the control over their photos, but do not want the hassle of having to carry heavy sets of full sizes lenses with them. In fact, more and more professional photographers are also investing in these cameras as an alternative option to their usual set of cameras.

• Pros: Good image quality with good features, lightweight, and often less expensive as a package than SLR cameras.
• Cons: Not the very best out there if you want the best quality photographs. (Editor’s note: this is the author’s opinion)

Read about some of mirrorless options we’ve reviewed and covered here:

• Sony A7RII Mirrorless Full Frame Camera Review
• The 19 Most Popular Compact System and Mirrorless Cameras with Our Readers
• Sony A6000 Mirrorless Camera Review and Example Images
• Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Camera Review
• Thoughts on the Newly Released Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II

DSLR

Image courtesy of Canon

Since their introduction in the late 90s, these cameras have become the choice for serious amateur and professional photographers. DSLR cameras are designed on the same basis as their film predecessors, and they offer superb image quality, interchangeable lenses, and a host of creative controls. The majority of DLSRs use a sensor size called APS-C, but the very top end models will have a full-frame sensor which is the same size as a 35mm film. Prices start from around $400 for an entry-level APS-C model with a standard lens, right through to over $3,000, just for the camera body, for a full-frame model.

• Pros: The number one choice for professional photographers, offering superb image quality and creative features. Offer the availability to change lenses.
• Cons: Heavy, bulky and incredibly expensive.

Read more here:

• The 20 Most Popular DSLRs Among our Readers
• The 20 Most Popular DSLR Lenses Among our Readers
• 8 Factors to Look at Before You Choose a New DSLR or Mirrorless Camera
• Review: Comparison Canon 5D MarkIII vs the Canon 6D
• Camera Showdown: the Nikon D5500 and D3300, Canon 70D and Sony a6000 Compared

Medium Format Cameras

These are the Rolls Royce of the camera world. If a full-frame DSLR isn’t good enough for you, then the next step up is a medium format camera. These benefit from even bigger sensors than the full-frame DSLRs, which in turn means higher image resolution (60 megapixels), but they also come with a hefty price tag. For example the Hasselblad H5D-200cMS with a standard lens could cost in excess of $50,000!

• Pros: Amazing picture quality, nothing else will come close.
• Cons: Very expensive not to mention big, bulky and heavy.

Most new photographers often feel that they need to invest in the most expensive camera to capture great photos, however, don’t forget that the camera is just a tool. The reality is, that unless the other elements of the photo such as composition, lighting subject etc., are all in line, the photo will fail regardless of which camera you use.
There is plenty of choice out there, both in terms of features and price, for any photographer’s price range. So take your time, do your research, and choose something that is within your budget and suits your needs.
Now it’s your turn. Share your advice on cameras below.

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Shooting Portraits like a Pro On a Budget

In this post portrait photographer Alexis Godschalk shares some tips on shooting studio like portraits on a budget by talking us through a shoot he did with a band recently.

When I started doing photography years ago, I really wanted to shoot fantastic shots, I wanted to make sure that my photographs would be considered for a gallery showing. All I had was Canon 10D and a flash. Most of what I shot was candid and in the style of photo journalism and even though this was fine I wanted more.
What kept me from shooting clean studio like portraits was the mistaken belief that I needed loads of expensive equipment.
One day a friend of mine approached me about photographing his band. He had just gotten new management and wanted to make the band band look pro. He started by showing me some photography he liked and we started talking about what could and could not be done. One of the shots he like was a clean shot with dramatic lighting again a black background. I told him that would be tough but I’d try, and so we did.
Not having a studio or lighting I started getting creative and went into the garage to see what I had. I had a couple of ladders, string, clamps, 8’ pole, a black bed sheet and some tape. I decided to shoot outside in my front yard and use sun light. I knew that I wanted to reflect light so I bought a couple of sheets of 2”x4” white foam-board from the local hardware store. After getting my things together I was ready to go try it out.

The equipment:

• Two fold-open ladders
• Two black bed sheets
• A 8’ pole
• String
• Two sheets of 2”x4” white foam board
• Tape
• Tripod
• Camera (Canon 10D)

The rigging:

I setup my two “fold-open” ladders opposite each other and tied the 8’ pole to the front edge of both. I tied a couple of weights to the bottom step of each ladder. I then taped the black bed sheet to the top of the pole across from one end to the other making sure to keep it as clean as I could. I found another black sheet to put on the grass in front of the backdrop.

Lighting:

Using the sun was going to be a challenge as it was one-directional, so I used the two sheets of foam-board to reflect the light onto the guys faces and add fill-in lighting. As I was shooting digital I was able to look at the results right away and change the angles right away.
Tip: If shooting outside have a small sheet you can pull over your head and camera when reviewing the shot on a digital camera, this will greatly help you see what you shot without the reflections and the sun light dimming your view.
I spent some time getting the look I wanted with and playing with angles. They had some black hats and clothing so I tried to create some trim lighting to make the hats and clothing pop from the black background.

The shoot:

I knew I was going to have to darken the background sheet in photoshop, so I made sure to keep it clean and smooth as much as possible. The creases could become a big job to fix in photoshop so I tried to keep them to an absolute minimum. During I took time to get the band guys to get comfortable and challenge them to try facial expressions and “looks” I wanted to make sure they would look like a band and not goofy. I had some sample photos that I would show them to see if they could duplicate. The funny thing was that within 30min a nice group of neighbors had come to see what we where doing. This was fun but also distracting, so I made sure that we stayed focused.

Tip: As the photographer take charge, remember you are going to get the best results by keeping things under control and minimizing distractions. Also keep checking your shots for bad reflections, shadows, expressions and wardrobe issues. Remember, it’s better to fix right there than afterward in photoshop.
One of the guys wanted Latin text painted on his chest, we shot some shots but I thought it was to strong so at the end I suggested trying to put a T-shirt on over it and wet the T-shirt “just to see what it would look like” That shot really turned out great. Be flexible and try out some stuff (after you are sure you have want you wanted) in this case, wetting him would have hindered other shots we wanted had i not shot them first.

The result:

The shoot turned out to be great and a load of fun! I was very happy with the results and to this day people think it was shot in a studio with lighting equipment. The band was ubber happy and I was too. For a no-budget shoot and not having any pro-equipment the results were very convincing and opened the door for me to do some other paid shoots and actually buy equipment. Years later I now shoot with lighting equipment, but have to say that, that shoot was one of the most fun and a great paradigm shift for me.
As a photographer the tools you have are just that; tools. You can make great looking shots with some creativity and some random stuff around your home. Money and equipment should not limit you from pushing the limits. So go have fun with it.

Update: A Diagram to Show How it Was Done

We have had a lot of people asking if we could include a diagram of how this shoot was setup. Alexis has kindly put one together for you:

___________________________
Alexis Godschalk is a portrait and wedding photographer from Los Angeles California you can find some of his work at photo.net. Connect with Alexis via twitter at agodschalk.

Can a Professional Photographer spot the difference? $400 Camera VS $4,0...

How to Photograph Kids Playing, Running Around and Generally Being Kids

By: Mat Coker

If you’re a people photographer, it’s hard to resist photographing kids as they play, run around and… well, be kids. It’s also a great chance for you to play as a photographer.
Here are seven tips to help you capture photographs of kids at play.

#Light#Photographing#Kids

It was a grey hazy day at the beach so I focused on silhouette photos of my kids at play.

1. Use Your Phone Instead of Missing the Moment

I teach people how to use their new DSLR cameras. One of their biggest frustrations is that their friends seem to take better photos with a phone than they can with their complicated DSLR.
If you’re still struggling with your DSLR, don’t be afraid to use your phone as a camera. As long as you keep in mind the most important parts of a photo – light, moment, and composition – your phone will take great photos.

This photo of my daughter running through a puddle was captured with my iPhone 4s.
Because it was a bright day, the shutter speed was fast and froze the water as it splashed.

2. Be an Observer Instead of a Boss

If you’re going to photograph kids at play, it’s best to have them acting candidly rather than telling them what to do. Just let them play, and they’ll give you countless moments to photograph. The moment you step in and tell them what to do or how to play, you’ll ruin the moment.

I wanted a nice portrait of my daughter with these fall colors, but I knew I wouldn’t be
able to make her stand still for one. So I let her walk on ahead of me. When I called
her name she looked back, and I snapped the photo.

3. Angles

While photographing kids at play, consider the angle you’re using. Your photos will look more exciting if you go for low angles or face to face. Get down to their level (if not lower) and into their world.

I achieved this extremely low angle by laying down on the ground and looking straight up.

Before it was hauled away, my kids turned this mattress into a trampoline. A low angle
helped to capture how high he was jumping.

4. Get Close

Join in the play, and get as close as you can while using a wide angle. When you look at the photo it will make you feel like you’re right back there in the moment.

This son was wrestling with his dad so I decided to get in as close as I could. The wide-angle
helped to exaggerate the moment.

5. Get Behind Them

Photographing people from behind adds a bit of mystery to your photo. It lets the viewer bring a little more of their own imagination to the photo. When we can’t see the person’s face, it makes us imagine what they’re up to.

This over-the-shoulder shot anticipates the action that’s about to happen.

This photo was taken in a massive outdoor sandbox. Obviously, he’s been sliding down the
dirt hills on his bum.

This combines taking a photo from behind with getting in close. (Taken with an iPhone.)

6. Play With Your Shutter Speed

One of the biggest problems you’ll face when capturing action is motion blur. So you’ll need a fast shutter speed.
But you can also play with a slow shutter speed and capture creative motion blur.

I took advantage of my iPhone’s slow shutter speed to capture this portrait of my daughter.
As you can see her face is basically sharp while the background is quite blurry. This was
achieved by having her walk toward me while I walked backward. To the camera everything
is moving except for her.

7. Tell a Story With Your Photos

You can tell a story with your photos. It might be a ‘before and after’ story using just two photos. Or it could be a beginning, middle and end with three photos. It might even be a longer story that fills a photo book.

This story begins with a little girl taking her daddy by the hand and leading him.

Then in the middle of the story, she dances with her daddy.

The story ends with her daddy swinging her around wildly.

Final Checklist

Here’s a checklist for photographing kids as they run around and play.

• Consider this playtime for you as a photographer.
• Use any camera you’ve got – even your phone.
• Stand back and let moments happen on their own.
• Be creative with your angles.
• Get in close.
• Add mystery to your photo by photographing kids from behind.
• Be creative with your shutter speed.
• Tell stories with multiple photos.

Now go out there and take some great photos of those kids being kids and share them with us in the comments.

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3 Creative Ingredients for Every Photo You Take

By: Mat Coker

We all look at our photos at times and think, “these just aren’t that great.” New photographers who aren’t sure what to do feel this way all the time. But so do seasoned photographers.
Sometimes, looking at the most basic elements of your photo can help you a lot.
I have a mental checklist that I use to help me take the best photo I can. When I review my photos I use this checklist to ask what I could have done better.
Whether you’re a new photographer trying to develop your style or a seasoned photographer wanting to revive a stagnant style, you can use these 3 ingredients to make dramatic changes to your photos.

• Moment
• Composition
• Light

All three of these ingredients are present in every photo you take, it’s just a question of what you do with them. Begin by understanding the moment you’re photographing and then build your composition and play with light.
We’ll look at moment, composition and light separately, but I’ll identify all three in each photo as we move along.

 #Moment#Composition#Light

Moment: candid, action
Composition: high angle
Light: soft, backlight
When I first began using an old iPhone to take pictures I knew I couldn’t rely on camera 

settings to make my photos look good. Instead, I would have to focus on other elements 

such as gesture, angles, and light.

Moment

Most people would agree that the moment is the most important part of any photo. We won’t even notice the shortcomings in your photo if the moment is strong enough.
First, begin by considering what sort of moment you’re about to photograph. The first question to ask is whether the moment is one that you’ve set up (still life, food photography or posed portraits) or is it happening naturally (candid moments, photojournalism, lifestyle or street photography)?

Moment: posed
Composition: face to face angle
Light: soft, side light

Moment: candid
Composition: high angle
Light: soft side light
After photographing thousands of the same pose over and over, this candid moment was a 

breath of fresh air.

Whether it’s a natural or posed moment, there are further questions to ask. That moment may be packed with action (sports), or emotion (events) or mystery (portraits).

Moment: action
Composition: slightly higher angle
Light: soft, side light

Moment: candid moment combing two emotions; a loving embrace and a crying infant
Composition: face to face
Light: backlight

You can go even deeper into the moment. When the environment or background plays a role, the moment may be a season, a time of day, or a sudden storm.

Moment: a childhood moment at golden hour
Composition: face to face
Light: warm, soft, backlight

Types of moments to look for:

• Natural
• Posed
• Action
• Emotion
• Mystery
• Stage of life
• Time of day
• Season
• Weather

The type of moment that you’re photographing will influence your decision about composition and light too.

Composition – especially angles

Composition refers to everything your photo is composed of. Which means no matter what part of the photo you’re discussing, it’s all composition. However, photographers often use the term composition to refer to a specific type of element such as angle, background, framing, symmetry, lines, centering, rule of thirds, etc. So even though moment and light are technically part of the photo’s composition, they often stand on their own.
We’ll take a close look at angles because you must use an angle in every photo, whereas other elements such as lines, symmetry, or rule of thirds may not be possible or desirable in every photo.
Angles are easy to learn and fun to use. To change the angle you simply need to get your camera higher or lower or rotate horizontally from left to right.
There are five vertical angles to choose from, and each one changes the look and feel of the photo. You should choose your angle based on the type of moment you’re photographing.

• Bird’s eye view – when you get up high and look straight down (candid and still life moments).
• High angle – like a grown-up looking down at their kids (posed or emotional moments).
• Eye level – at the same level as the thing you’re photographing (emotional or action moments).
• Low angle – like a child looking up at the world of grown-ups (action moments).
• Bug’s eye view – looking straight up from down on the ground. (dramatic moments).

Experiment with angles and you will soon learn what works best for you.

Moment: setup, “posed”
Composition: bird’s eye view. Great for food photography because it mimics the angle 

that you use to look down at your food.
Light: soft, side light

Moment: posed
Composition: low angle
Light: soft, side light
Climbing a mound of dirt with your Tonka trucks is pretty epic for a little kid. So photographing 

it from a lower angle helps to exaggerate the size and how the moment feels.

Use angles and the other elements of composition to bring out the nature or essence of your moment.
Choose your angle well and then fill out your composition with other elements to draw the eye. Try negative space (also with portraits), centering, black and white, silhouettes, lines, framing and other unique approaches.

“One doesn’t stop seeing. One doesn’t stop framing. It doesn’t turn off and turn on. It’s on all the time.” – Annie Leibovitz

Light

There will be all sorts of moments that you have either orchestrated (posed) or discovered (candid). You respond to that moment with your composition, bringing out the meaning of the moment. Finally, you do your best with light to make the moment look better.
Sometimes you can control the light (strobes, off camera flash, or window light). In most other cases you can’t control the light. But no matter what light you’re given, you can always modify it with scrims and reflectors.
There are a few aspects of light to keep in mind since they dramatically affect your photo.

Color

Most light has a color to it. Perhaps it’s clean white light, or maybe it’s being reflected off a colored surface. Consider the temperature of the light. Is it warm or cool?

Moment: season, night
Composition: lower angle
Light: cool, backlight

Moment: posed
Composition: face to face angle, framed by the branches
Light: warm, backlight

Quality

When it comes to the quality of light, remember that a larger light source will produce softer light while a smaller light source produces harsh light.
So a large window is a source of soft light, while a bare light bulb produces harsh light. Photographers use umbrellas and softboxes to make the light source larger and produce a softer light.
An overcast sky is a source of soft light, while the sun is a source of harsh light.

Moment: posed
Angle: face to face
Light: harsh, side light

Moment: perfectly still, but not posed
Composition: bird’s eye view angle
Light: soft, side light produced by a window

Moment: posed
Composition: face-to-face angle, symmetrical composition
Light: soft light was produced by an overcast sky.
The orderliness of the photo is broken by the silly expression on her face.

Direction

Whatever the color and quality of light, it will always be coming from a particular direction. The direction of light changes the feel of your photo.

Moment: candid
Composition: low angle
Light: green, harsh, front light

Moment:action
Composition: high angle, centered
Light: harsh, side light

Moment: action
Angle: low angle
Light: backlight from the setting sun, producing texture in the sand

There is a lot to learn about light, but keep in mind these three big elements:

• Temperature, color
• Quality (large and soft, or small and harsh)
• Direction

Every creator uses ingredients

Photographers are no different.
None of the three main ingredients are optional, they’re going to be in every photo. The question is what you do with them and how they affect your photo.
There is going to be a moment, but did you think it through and capture it the way you hoped?
There will always be an angle (and many other elements of composition), but did you choose one that made the moment stand out better?
And, there will always be light, but did you use it in such a way as to make the moment look it’s best?

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