By: Prince McClinton

The Basics of Photography – Introduction to photography (Tutorials)

Hey there, you made it! Glad to see you found your way to our Basics of Photography series. We have taught the basics of photography to photographers around the world through Art of Visuals, so we know just exactly how difficult it can be to learn the basics principles of photography. My goal is to make this Basics of Photography series the absolute simplest way to learn the basics of photography in the fastest amount of time possible. I hope you’ll love this series because of what you learn here, and I hope you’ll join the Art of Visuals Academy after you get your feet wet with the Basics of Photography.  Let’s get going.

BASIC EQUIPMENT YOU’LL NEED

You can do photography with even the simplest of cameras, but the principles that I’d like to teach are for people who want to learn to use a DSLR camera, a micro four-thirds camera, or at least a camera that allows the photographer to adjust the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. For a full list of gear that we recommend, check out our selections on Adorama. Now that you have your camera, let’s jump into learning exposure.

EXPOSURE

When we talk about “exposure,” we simply mean the brightness or darkness of a photo.  It seems simple enough to take a photo that is correctly exposed (has the proper brightness or darkness), but in reality, it can be quite tricky. Exposure uses Aperture, Shutter speed, and ISO in conjunction to create a properly exposed image. View, share, and download the infographic below to help better understand exposure below.

Art of Visuals Exposure Cheat Sheet

WHAT IS APERTURE?

Simply put, Aperture is the hole within your lens, through which light travels into the camera body.

What is Aperture? from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

The image above on the left is shot at an aperture of 1.4 making it a wide aperture while the image on the right is taken at 5.6 making it a more narrow aperture, therefore more of the shot is in focus.

WHAT IS ISO?

In very basic terms, ISO is the level of sensitivity of your camera to available light. The lower the ISO number, the less sensitive it is to the light, while a higher ISO number increases the sensitivity of your camera.

What is ISO? from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

Low Iso Image

High Iso Image

WHAT IS SHUTTER SPEED?

Shutter speed, also known as “exposure time”, stands for the length of time a camera shutter is open to expose light into the camera sensor. If the shutter speed is fast, it can help to freeze action completely, as seen in the below photos. If the shutter speed is slow, it can create an effect called “motion blur”, where moving objects appear blurred along the direction of the motion which you can also see in the below photo.

What is shutter speed from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

Example of a high shutter speed image.

Example of a slow shutter speed.

WHAT IS WHITE BALANCE?

As the name suggests, white balance balances the color temperature in your image. How does it do this? It adds the opposite color to the image in an attempt to bring the color temperature back to neutral. Instead of whites appearing red or yellow, they should appear white after correctly white balancing an image.

White Balance from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

Art of Visuals White Balance Cheat Sheet

AUTO FOCUS MODES AND HOW THEY WORK

DSLR’s come with a range of autofocus modes. For simplicity, will focus on AF-C and AF-S.

Single Focus

One Shot / S-AF / Single Servo / AF-S / S, etc., is the simplest form of autofocus. In general, you press the shutter-release button halfway, or your camera may have a separate AF-ON button, and the camera will lock focus on a subject on which you have placed the active autofocus sensor. Press the shutter button the rest of the way to take the image. The advantage? Simplicity. You aim, the camera focuses, and you shoot. The disadvantage? Did your subject move? Did you move? If the distance between camera and subject changed, that initial focus solution is no longer valid. You will have to go through the process again. If your camera has an “autofocus assist” light on the front, it is likely that you need to be in this mode to get the lamp to illuminate the scene so the camera can focus.

Continuous Focus

Continuous AF / C-AF / AI Servo / AF-C, etc. is where the camera’s electronic brains start to do some pretty cool things to help you keep your subject in focus. In general, the camera locks onto a designated subject, chosen by you using the autofocus point(s), and then tracks that object as it moves in the frame. If the locked subject moves closer or farther, or if you move, the camera will adjust focus accordingly. The advantage? Taming dynamic situations with sports action, moving kids or roaming wildlife. The disadvantage? If you must recompose your image after the focus is locked, your camera may get confused into locking onto another part of your frame.

Camera focus basics from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPOSITION

So, “composition” describes placement of relative objects and elements in an image. Consequently, composition is a key aspect of great photography. There is hardly a way to overemphasize the importance of composition. Any aspiring artist ought to give composition of his work a lot of attention.

Composition basics from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

Composition examples.

Composition examples.

WHAT IS AN IMAGE SENSOR

The camera sensor size affects many factors in your images and the functions of your camera body. It has a major impact on the quality of your image, how your lens functions, and how it performs in low light conditions. There are three basic size categories for sensors: Four Thirds, APS, and Full Film Format(full frame).  Smaller sensors are used in point and shoot cameras while the larger ones are found in DSLR cameras.

What is image sensor? from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

 Sony a7Sii Full Frame Mirrorless Camera

AOV Image Sensor Diagram

METERING AND HOW IT WORKS

Metering is how your camera determines what the correct shutter speed and aperture should be, depending on the amount of light that goes into the camera and the sensitivity of the sensor.
Metering from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

MEMORY CARDS

This is what your camera uses to store images and video files from the camera. The faster the memory cards the better the performance for photo and video. We personally shoot with Lexar Memory cards because they are fast and dependable but there are also other great companies out there.
Memory cards from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

Lexar memory Card

PHOTOGRAPHY LENSES FOR BEGINNERS

In this video below we make recommendations for the best lenses for beginners. You can also visit our gear page on Adorama for our favorite selection of camera lenses and photography gear.

What Lens for beginners? from Art of Visuals on Vimeo.

CONCLUSION

We really hope you enjoyed the Art of Visuals basics of photography. We hope to continue to educate and inspire you. If you are interested in learning more about photography and more advanced techniques then you should head on over to the Art of Visuals Academy where we teach you all the ins and outs of photography.

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Did you find this course helpful? Then you will love the new AOV Creators Bundle and Master Creators Bundle. The fastest and easiest way to create your next masterpiece. Includes editing tools and educational tutorials. Use code: blog20 for 20% off the Creators Bundle and Master Creator Bundle.

 

by Alesha And Jarryd

General Travel Photography Tips For Beginners

To start with let me talk about the general travel photography tips that I feel are not only the most important, but also the most difficult to master.
Developing an eye for photography can, and will, take years. It’s a never-ending learning process, but I promise you with practice you will get better.
And once you start to get the skills for framing and composing a shot, the rest is easy.

Know Your Camera

I have been through many styles and brands of cameras over the years. First there was the film camera I had when I was 14, which sparked my love of photography.
I had no idea what I was doing and I wasted a lot of money getting crappy images developed because I just didn’t know how to use it.
Then I bought a few point and shoot cameras as I travelled the world, before finally upgrading to an entry-level dSLR.
This really sparked my love of photography, and now I’m using a professional, full frame mirrorless camera from Sony.
These days most people use digital cameras, which is so much better to develop your skills on. Still it takes some time to perfect in the field, and my first travel photography tip is to know your camera.

Knowing your camera allows you to capture those moments that happen quickly, like when this armadillo wandered into our campsite in Torres del Paine.

Whether you have a point-and-shoot, a mirrorless or a dSLR, take the time to learn about your camera. Figure out what all the buttons do and why they can be important.
Study the menu so that if you need to change a setting in the field you’re not spending minutes scrolling through it when timing is critical.
Also don’t forget to learn your camera’s limitations. Does it perform well in low-light or does the image fall apart? Is it sharp wide open, or do you need to stop down to get the best clarity? Does it have inbuilt image stabilisation?
Ultimately when you pick up your camera you want to feel comfortable and know exactly how it works. Then getting better pictures will come faster and easier.

Focus On The Golden And Blue Hours

Waking up early and staying out late is one of the best travel photography tips I can give. That’s because early in the morning and around when the sun sets is when you’ll get the best light.
The Golden Hour is that time when the sun is low in the sky and it throws a magical, warm glow across the scene.
Think the first hour after the sun peaks in the morning, and the last hour or two before the sun drops over the horizon in the afternoon.

Shooting in the golden hour gives the scene a beautiful, warm light.

The Blue Hour is when the sun is now below the horizon and the sky gives off this beautiful blue hue. When you’re taking pictures of city and landscapes this is gorgeous!
To take better travel photos you need to get up early for that sunrise shot and be out snapping images instead of sitting in a bar in the evenings. If you’re not a morning person, get used to setting an alarm. Make sure you get set up in your location before sunrise is in full swing.
Taking photos in the middle of the day can still result in excellent shots, but in general you’ll find the sky too blown out unless there are some interesting clouds, and on a sunny day you’ll find the lighting can be a bit harsh.
Instead use the middle of the day to get street shots, or scout out locations for your sunrise and sunset photos.
Bonus Tip – Even if it looks like the sunrise or sunset might not be so beautiful, wait around. You never know when the clouds might break or the sky randomly lights up in brilliant colours.

We woke up early for sunrise and Mt Fitz Roy was covered in clouds. Still we stayed for a while, and the clouds eventually broke just as the sun was casting a gorgeous red glow on the mountains.

Learn About Composition

You’ve probably heard about how important it is to compose a shot properly, and I bet if you’ve ever read a photography manual you would have come across the ‘rule of thirds‘.
Good composition can be the difference between an average shot and an award-winning image.
According to some guidelines, it’s best not to put your subject in the middle of the shot, unless you are taking a close-up portrait. Instead try and play around with the rule of thirds and go from there.
This concept is where you divide your image into 9 even squares (many cameras actually have this feature built into their display options).
Then what you do is you place the subjects and points of interest along the lines and squares. For example don’t place the horizon in the dead centre of the image (unless it’s a reflection shot).
Here’s an example of how this looks:

This very simple shot of the Khongor sand dunes in Mongolia uses the rule of thirds method to give it an interesting composition.

The idea of the rule of thirds is that this is a mathematical idea of what our eyes naturally find pleasing. So it’s good practice to incorporate this method into your shots.
Another thing to look for is leading lines that naturally draw your eye around the photo, as well as angles and shapes.
Have a river flowing from the side of the shot up to a waterfall on the top left for example, or the foreground bending around, leading the eye towards a church at the top of the photo.
This is a skill that you’ll learn with more practice.
An important thing to remember is that rules are meant to be broken, and there is absolutely no reason that placing your subject in the middle of your frame won’t work.
Get used to analysing your shots with the rule of thirds, but please don’t use it as gospel if you think a different composition would work.

Besides being a nice, colourful photo of street art in Valparaiso, Chile, the angles in this shot leads your eye deeper into it the image.

Framing, Framing And More Framing

It happens time and time again. You get so caught up with taking photos that you forget to make sure everything is perfectly in the frame.
Don’t worry, I understand. I used to do it too. But the problem is it can often destroy a great photo.
When you look through the viewfinder or LCD screen, don’t just focus on the subject. Make sure you run your eyes around the entire frame to make sure you’re not accidentally cutting off something important.
Double check that you’re not cutting off the top of a mountain, or that your friend’s whole body is in the shot.
This isn’t gospel, because sometimes having something cut off from the the frame can be good for composition, but you’ll have to be the judge of that.
Also check to see if you can use something natural in the scene to create a frame inside your picture. Think of looking out a window at a building, or a bent-over tree surrounding a pretty lake.
These can also help make for great travel photos.

Here I used the shrubs in the foreground and the tree on the right side of the image to frame the Harbour Bridge and Opera House in a natural way. The green also contrasts nicely with the blue and white.

Move Your Feet

This follows on from framing and composition. When I take a shot I try to frame it like I would want to see it on a wall. Sometimes standing exactly where you are is not always the best structure for your shot.
This is one of the most important travel photography tips I can give – Move your feet.
The iconic Taj Mahal photo doesn’t look as good if you’re a few steps to the left of having it perfectly centred.
Or maybe the river looks really pretty where you are, but if you move a bit more to the side you can also get some cool rocks in the shot.
Move around until you are happy with the shot. Take a few steps forward, backwards and to the sides to get an idea of every possible angle.
Still take the photos, and that way when you are home and can see your photos on the computer and see which ones you like best.

When I was photographing the World Nomad Games in Kyrgyzstan I was trying to get a lot of amazing people photos. I saw this group of people in traditional dress outside a yurt, and after saying hello I walked around until I found an angle I liked. See how the out-of-focus man in the front appears to be staring at the old man in the centre?

Ask People For Permission

Travel photography isn’t all about capturing the most beautiful sunsets and gorgeous architecture around the world.
Travel photography should also be about the people you meet. But if you’re a bit shy like me, how do you get those amazing portrait photos without feeling rude?
Simple – just ask for permission.
Asking people for permission to take their photo is polite and respectful.
If you have had a great encounter with someone, or you just see a great opportunity to capture a wonderful portrait, give them a big smile and ask if it’s ok to take their photo.
We ask all the time. Sometimes we get a yes, and sometimes we get a no. If they say no we always respect their decision.
What if someone came up to you and shoved a camera in your face without your permission? You wouldn’t be very happy…

A great trick is to ask someone for permission to take their photo, and if they agree take one and then wait for them to go back to what they were doing. This lady in Uzbekistan was extracting silk from worms, and after taking a portrait shot I stood around chatting, taking a few pictures while she got back to work.

But what if you want to get a candid shot, with the subject looking natural? Well this can be a bit more difficult but there are ways to achieve this without annoying the person.
Don’t make it obvious that you are taking their photo. Try to act natural and as though your taking photos of many different things in the scene. You can also keep your camera down by your side and point the lens in their direction.
If you have a zoom lens, use it. This was you can be on the other side of the street or market and still photograph the person.

Make Them Feel Comfortable

Another one of my favourite travel photography tips for portraits is to bring in another element to the shot. Most people will feel uncomfortable posing for a photo, but if you can make it about something else they will feel much more at ease.
As an example, maybe ask if they can pose with something in their store like a rug, or ask them to show you their wedding ring.
This way they’ll realise there is more to your photo than just them. This will also add a lot more interesting elements to the shot!

Even though I didn’t buy anything from this man in the Gobi Desert, I joked around with him enough that he felt quite comfortable to pose for a photo for me. By having his motorbike in the frame as well it tells the story of how he travelled to find us.

Use A Tripod

A tripod is one of the best camera accessories you can have, and really essential for travel photography. This will allow you to get excellent shots in low light, as well as get creative with your images (like taking long exposures).
These days you don’t always need a massive tripod to travel around with, especially if you want to travel light and are a hobbyist photographer. Look at some of the Joby Gorillapods.
Another good thing about using a tripod is that it will force you to slow down with your photography and put more thought into each shot.
Rather than just pointing and shooting, you will think carefully about where you want to set up your tripod and how you want to compose your shot.
Honestly if you want to become a better travel photographer, you’ll need to invest in at least a small tripod.

Using a tripod allowed Jarryd to take this long-exposure photo of a waterfall in El Chalten, Argentina.

Be Unique

There’s nothing wrong with getting those iconic shots of the Eiffel Tower or Machu Picchu. They’re beautiful and are often amazing angles of famous places that everyone wants to visit.
But don’t forget to be unique as well! Find a different perspective that hasn’t been photographed a million times. In fact make it your goal to get a few unique shots that you can be proud of.
Rules were meant to be broken as well, so if you’re looking at a scene to photograph and have a crazy idea for some composition, then just go for it!
Forget about the rule of thirds, place your subject directly in the centre and see how it turns out.
And despite the negative attitudes some people have towards them, it’s even possible to take awesome travel selfies which will add an artistic flair to your shots.

This photo follows absolutely no rules, but I really like it because it stands out as something different to every other photo I tend to take.

Find Your Voice As A Photographer

Just like a writer or musician finds a particular style they like, as a photographer you need to discover your ‘voice’.
Travel photography is such a broad term that can cover just about anything. Really just taking any photos of your travels will fit the description, whether it is landscapes, architecture, portraits, food or whatever.
What you need to do to really get passionate about travel photography is to find what you love the most and focus on it.
If you really like black and white photography, then start shooting in black and white! Love taking images of crazy street markets? Then get out there and find them!
You will grow much more as a photographer with a passion and direction than someone who just takes nice photos of the most photographed places on the planet.
Experiment, learn, discover and nurture!

Just keep taking photos until you find your style!

Technical Travel Photography Tips

While the technical side of using a camera is usually the most overwhelming thing for a new photographer to think about, it’s actually one of the easiest things to master. All it takes is a bit of study and practice.
If you’ve never looked into getting out of ‘Auto’ on your camera, then terms like ISO, aperture, white balance and shutter speed will seem completely foreign.
I’ve actually written a much more detailed post about what all these mean, which will be published very soon, but for now let me do a very brief run down on these to help you.

Exposure Triangle of Photography

I can almost hear you thinking, “What is she talking about? Exposure Triangle? You mean like naked shapes?”
The Exposure Triangle is a metaphor to explain the 3 elements that allows light onto a photo. A camera captures light, and the right amount is needed so that your image isn’t too bright or too dark.
The 3 parts of the Exposure Triangle are aperture, ISO and shutter speed. Each one affects how light reaches the sensor in different ways, and getting this combination perfect is essential to capturing a beautiful image.

The Exposure Triangle.

I’ll explain these three things briefly now.

Aperture

Aperture is how wide, or small, the blades in your lens are and how much light goes through the lens. The aperture size is measured in F Stops, and displayed as numbers. f5.6, f8, f11, f16, etc
A wide aperture (small number – f2) lets in more light than a low aperture (big number – f22). A wide aperture also has a shallowed depth of field than a low aperture. I know it can be a little confusing, but you’ll pick it up the more you play around with it.
If you want the background blurry in your photo, you’ll want a wide aperture. If you want everything in focus, you’ll want a low aperture.

I used a wider aperture for this photo so that the focus would be on the young girl, and the background would be slightly blurry without losing enough detail to be able to tell that it’s a rural environment.

ISO

ISO is how sensitive your camera sensor is to light. A small number, such as 100, means it’s not very sensitive and therefore needs more light to leave an impression.
A high number, like 6400, means it’s very sensitive and needs only a little bit of light to show up on the sensor.
The higher the ISO, the more noise shows up in a photo. Noise lowers the quality of your image, so in a perfect world you’ll want to keep this as low as possible (unless you’re doing astro and night photography).
It’s also necessary to raise your ISO if you’re shooting moving subjects (or handheld) indoors.

There are times where having a higher ISO is actually better for the photo. When Jarryd took this photo of the Milky Way in Antarctica he had the ISO at 2000 so the sensor would capture more stars.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is pretty straight forward – how long it takes for your shutter to open and close. This allows you to freeze a frame, or capture motion blur.
Want to photograph a bird in flight? You’ll want to have a fast shutter speed (1/4000th of a second for example). Want to make a waterfall look silky smooth? Go for a slow shutter speed (3 seconds for example).
Keep in mind that if you are holding your camera rather than using a tripod, you’ll need to have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate your own hand movement.
As a general rule 1/60 of a second is the slowest you should go so your picture doesn’t pick up hand movement. Any slower than that and you’ll probably need a tripod.

When Jarryd took this photo he needed to have very specific settings to get it right. He chose an aperture around f7.1 to make sure he could get the image quite sharp, but because the whales were moving he needed a high shutter speed. He kept the ISO down to 100, which kept it clean, and he could go for a shutter speed of 1/800.

Combining All Three For Perfect Exposure

There is no ‘perfect setting’ for aperture, ISO and shutter speed. It all depends on what you are trying to photograph and the style you’re going for.
Luckily most decent digital cameras have two little tools that will let you play around figure out how all three work together – manual mode and histograms.
Manual mode gives you complete control over your camera’s ISO, aperture and shutter speed. If you change one, nothing else will change, unlike in ‘aperture priority’ mode or ‘shutter priority’ mode.
The histogram is a visual display of light. When the bars are all the way to the left, the image is darker. When they are all the way to the right, the image is lighter. When most of the bars are in the centre, this is perfectly exposed.

This is a histogram. The left side are your blacks, or shadows, and the right hand side are your whites, or highlights. For ‘perfect exposure’ you ideally want your histogram to be in the middle, not all pushed to one side.

The best way to figure out what combinations work best when you’re a complete amateur is to put your camera on “manual” mode, activate the histogram, and play around with the settings.
Pick an aperture (f8 for example) and point it at the scene. Now look at the histogram. If the image is too dark, then you’ll need to let more light in. Let’s make the shutter speed slower. See a change?
Now put the shutter speed back to where it was and instead change the ISO. Make the ISO higher. Is the image getting lighter?
Spend an hour or two playing around with different apertures, ISO and shutter speeds so you get an idea of how each one affects the light hitting the display.
Take note at how drastically things can change if a cloud goes in front of the sun, or you take the camera inside.
This just comes with practice of course, and knowing what settings you want for a particular scene will become second nature
Keep in mind that not every photo needs to be perfectly exposed. Sometimes having a darker image looks much better than having one that is nice and bright. You can use your judgement for this.

Not every shot has to have perfect exposure to be beautiful.

Bonus – General Ideas For Camera Settings

This is very, very basic and by no means should be read as gospel. There are a million different things that can affect why you would want a faster shutter speed, or wider aperture. But if you are confused about what to pick for what here’s a quick idea.

• Landscapes – You’ll want your aperture around f8-f11. You’ll also want your ISO as low as possible. Slow down the shutter speed accordingly.
• Portraits – You’ll probably want your subject sharp, but the background blurry to bring focus on the person. Have a wider aperture (say f2.8 for example), and a faster shutter (around 1/160 at the absolute slowest) to freeze the subject. Adjust ISO accordingly.
• Indoors – Because it is darker inside than outside, you’ll need to let a lot more light into the sensor. Unless you’re using a tripod, keep the shutter speed at around 1/60 as the slowest, and the aperture around f5.6 to start with. Adjust ISO and aperture accordingly.

Of course there’s a bunch of other styles of travel photography that would use different settings, such as astrophotography, architecture, street scenes, etc. In time you’ll learn what settings work best for each scene.

Use Manual Mode

This is following on from the Exposure Triangle. The best way to get to know your camera and how light works is to have complete control over what settings you choose. The only way to do this is to shoot in manual mode (shown by the letter M on most cameras).
It will take months of practice, but I promise you that in time you’ll be able to look at a scene and instantly know what aperture, ISO and shutter speed to use to get the exact style of image you’re looking for.
You can also use aperture priority mode (the letter A on your camera) if you don’t want to make the big leap to manual just yet.
This way you can lock in the aperture you want (f8 for landscapes, f2.8 for portraits, etc) and the camera will automatically adjust the ISO (although you can control this part too) and shutter speed to get perfect exposure.
I highly recommend focusing on learning manual mode though until you have it perfected.

Capturing this shot of a sunbeam breaking into the world’s largest cave would not have been possible unless shooting in manual mode.

Shoot in RAW (if available)

When you take a photo on your digital camera, the computer chip inside it takes what you captured on the sensor and converts it into a format that can be easily read. For most cameras, these two formats are RAW and JPEG.
JPEG is a compressed format that the camera creates to save on space. In doing so it ‘locks in’ all the data that it picked up such as the colour and white balance.
RAW files actually saves all the data of what you took and doesn’t compress it. This means you can edit the photo and really play around with certain elements of the shot without damaging it. It’s like being given a negative in film photography, as opposed to a slide.
Most decent digital cameras will give you the option of shooting in RAW, and I recommend you use it if you ever plan on editing your photos. You will find the setting to change it in the menu of your camera.
Keep in mind that the file sizes will be a lot bigger (for example on our camera a RAW is 25mb, while a JPEG is just 12), so you’ll need to have extra storage. If you have no plans on editing your photos then shoot in JPEG.

Shooting in RAW really allows you to push the dynamic range of your photo.

Learn About Post Processing

Some people think that editing your photo is ‘cheating’. But the truth is photographers have been editing their photos ever since photography was invented. Think of developing film in a darkroom, which uses water, chemicals and light to change the exposure and contrast of an image.
99% of photos you see in your favourite magazines have been edited. Every professional photographer edits their photos. The reason is that not all cameras are great at capturing exactly what the eye saw in terms of colour and light.
If you really want to get the most out of your travel photography, you should start playing around with post processing. Many people have heard of Adobe Photoshop, but it’s a pretty advanced tool that most people wouldn’t ever need to use (until you get more experience).
To start with look at the free apps that you can get on your phone, such as Snapseed, or free programs on your computer, like iPhoto or GIMP.
Once you get serious about travel photography and you want to start editing all of your photos, we recommend purchasing Adobe Lightroom. Learning how to edit your photos in Lightroom is quite easy, but can be intimidating the first time you open it up. Check out some tutorials on YouTube.

If you’re ready to make the jump to using Lightroom and Photoshop, Adobe have a great ‘Creative Cloud’ package, which is what we use for only $10 a month. You can buy it here.

One of my photos before editing in Lightroom.

The same photo after making some adjustments in Lightroom. You can see I didn’t edit the image so much that it isn’t a true representation of what the scene looked like that morning.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Just like anything,  becoming a great travel photographer takes time, and a lot of practice. The only way you can get better is by getting out there taking photos!

Courtesy of: Nomadasaurus

The 12 Best Digital Cameras under $200

POSTED IN Tech Guides BY Quinn

Now more than ever, pictures have become essential to our daily lives. Never have people had so many memories recorded using photographs or had as many places to share those memories with family, friends, and former acquaintances.But while there is a strong temptation to use the high quality camera that comes with your phone, there are just some moments that need to be recorded with the higher quality of a digital camera. And while some of these high-quality cameras can be expensive, there are still plenty of affordable models that give you far superior zoom and picture quality than a phone camera will.
Here are the top 12 best digital cameras on the market today that fall under the $200 mark.

Nikon CoolPix A10

With the Nikon COOLPIX A10, you can take pictures whenever the mood strikes and get high-quality photos without having to lug around a lot of bulk to do so. The Nikon COOLPIX A10 is a slim and lightweight camera that allows you to simply point and shoot to get the pictures you want, while the Easy Auto Mode automatically chooses the ideal settings for each shot so that they turn out perfectly. You are able to zoom in while using the five times optical zoom to capture the finest details of every single moment. There is a NIKKOR glass lens that offers incredible 16.1 megapixel close-up pictures. You can also record videos using the 720-pixel HD video feature, and there is an electronic VR that will steady any camera movement to reduce shake and blurriness. The Nikon COOLPIX A10 runs effortlessly using double AA batteries, ensuring that you will always have enough limitless power ready and on hand.
Purchase

Samsung WB350F-16.3MP 21X Optical Zoom

With the Samsung WB350F-16.3MP 21X Optical Zoom Digital Camera, you can take the pefect photographs and share them with ease thanks to the tag and go technology. It is able to connect to any smartphone just by tapping the two units together. This phone comes with a 16.3 megapixel backslide illuminated CMOS sensor that requires less light for the right amount of exposure. It offers quick focusing power so that you won’t have to wait a second longer than you need to in order to line up the shot. You can take perfectly exposed images this way even in a low-light environment. The back of the camera houses a bright, three-inch LCD display that will let you edit and look at your pictures right away. There is a 21 times zoom on the Samsung WB350F-16.3MP 21X Optical Zoom Digital Camera that will allow you to get up close and personal. It even has a wide-angle lens.
Purchase

Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Instant Film Camera

Take a picture to cherish any moment and enjoy the ability to print those photographs right away with the Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Instant Film Camera. This Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Instant Film Camera offers high performance flash that is able to provide the perfect amount of light in any given situation; it is able to automatically adjust to the lighting needs of a room and shine the appropriate amount of light on a subject because of it. This helps to optimize the exposure to provide you with the perfect photo every time. With the party mode feature, you can capture not only the subject in question, but also the background of the subject just as brightly so that no memory of the night goes forgotten. There is a kid’s mode that makes it easy to take pictures of fast moving objects like kids and pets with the Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Instant Film Camera.

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Canon Powershot SX410 IS

One of the most advanced Canon models yet, the Canon PowerShot SX410 IS is full of exciting features that will get you excited about photography all over again. The Canon PowerShot SX410 IS comes with an ultra powerful 40 times optical zoom as well as its 24-millimeter wide-angle lens offers you total versatility of shots. You can capture huge landscapes at one time or zoom in for close-ups on certain subjects in ways you never dreamed possible. The Optical Image Stabilizer allows all of these photos, no matter what zoom they were taken at, to be incredibly clear and bright. There is a 20.0 Megapixel Sensor and Canon DIGIC 4+ Image Processor that allows for crisp, unmatched resolution to be present in all of your images. The videos that can be taken on the Canon PowerShot SX410 IS are just as impressive, thanks to its lifelike 720 pixel-recording feature. There are fun modes to experiment with such as a toy camera effect, fisheye effect and more.
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Nikon CoolPix L340 20MP

With the Nikon CoolPix L340 20MP, you can start taking photographs like a pro in no time at all. This Nikon CoolPix L340 20MP is a durable camera that can take pictures that are just as clear from way far away as they are close up. There is an impressive 28 times optical zoom telephoto lens on the Nikon CoolPix L340 20MP that makes it easy for you to capture photographs as clear as day from quite the distance. A vibration reduction feature allows you to snap steady photographs regardless of if your hands have a bit of shake when you snap them as it will steady out the image for you. The Nikon CoolPix L340 20MP comes with ultra sharp 20.2 megapixel photo capabilities so that no detail gets missed when you snap a picture. If you want to create videos on this camera, you can use the 720 pixel video setting. Choose your own settings for photos or let the scene auto selector do the work for you.
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DP Power N6 4K Touchscreen Camera

The DP Power N6 4K Touchscreen Camera is an action camera that is designed to be able to take pictures of all of your adventures, no matter what that may entail. Whether you want to capture shots during your favorite activities such as surfing, gliding, skiing, diving, climbing, driving, snorkeling or biking, the DP Power N6 4K Touchscreen Camera is there to help. One of the easiest cameras to use, the DP Power N6 4K Touchscreen Camera comes with a 2.31 inch touchscreen that makes it simple to look at your shots or change the settings in a flash. This camera offers an ultra sleek appearance that makes it not only attractive but simple to mount and carry around with you as well. It has been designed using heavy-duty gorilla glass that can resist any scratches or other issues from minimal impact. It comes with image stabilization to make the DP Power N6 4K Touchscreen Camera easy to use, even for those with shaky hands.
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SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera

The SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera is a durable camera that is designed to help you capture all of your fondest memories during your adventures with ease. This SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera is a heavy-duty, ultra HD 4K resolution video camera. It offers a dual screen so that you are able to clearly see the image that you are shooting right as you take the picture. The front of the screen will also show you the working state of the SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera, helping to make it simpler to operate. It comes with both a wireless connection and a remote control that makes it easy for you to control this camera using the included app. There is support for an external microphone to be used as well, helping the SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera keep the original sound of your video footage, even when the atmosphere you are in is noisy. This also makes it ideal for recording videos on your motorcycle, for instance.
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Sony Cybershot DSC-WX220

The Sony DSCWX220/B 18.2 MP Digital Camera with 2.7-Inch LCD is a durable camera that will allow you to get up close and personal with the subjects of your photographs, even from far away. The Sony DSCWX220/B 18.2 MP Digital Camera with 2.7-Inch LCD offers a 10 times optical zoom as well as a 20 times clear image digital zoom. The image processor inside of the Sony DSCWX220/B 18.2 MP Digital Camera with 2.7-Inch LCD creates pixels to match the patterning of the pixels surrounding the subject to make a sharper and more realistic image. It comes with an 18.2 megapixel Exmo R CMOS image sensor that offers high resolution, fast-speed shots even in the lowest of light settings. You can shoot smooth video and photographs using the Sony DSCWX220/B 18.2 MP Digital Camera with 2.7-Inch LCD as well thanks, to the Optical SteadyShot technology, and you can record those steady videos in stunning 1080 pixel resolution.
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Polaroid Snap Touch Instant Print

The Polaroid Snap Touch Instant Print Digital Camera allows you to take pictures and immediately print them thanks to the built-in printer on the camera. You can print high quality, full color pictures right on the spot using paper that comes with an adhesive backing. There are no toner or ink cartridges that you have to mess with as you would on other instant print cameras. Alongside printing the images on adhesive backing, you can choose to print them with digital stickers, filters, borders and more. There is BlueTooth connectivity on the Polaroid Snap Touch Instant Print Digital Camera that will let you connect your camera to the included app in order to play around with the image some more. The Polaroid Snap Touch Instant Print Digital Camera has a touchscreen display that makes it easy for you to navigate the camera. The 3.5-inch viewfinder makes it easy for you to take high def video, incredibly sharp photos and even great selfies, thanks to the included mirror.
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Sony DSCW800/B

The Sony DSCW800/B 20.1 MP Digital Camera is an ultra powerful camera that comes with a 20.1 megapixel image senor to help you take the most beautiful photographs you can imagine. It comes with a five times optical zoom that will allow you to get closer to your subjects, and the 10 times digital zoom helps provide you with even greater zooming ability. You can shoot smooth and gentle video with the Sony DSCW800/B 20.1 MP Digital Camera thanks to its SteadyShot image stabilization that begins to work when you are in active mode. With this technology, you can get high definition image quality with minimal noise and blur, even if you are walking while you take the picture. It is simple to charge wherever you want to go thanks to the USB port that lets you charge it with any universal USB charger. There is a sweep panorama mode on the Sony DSCW800/B 20.1 MP Digital Camera that allows you to take huge landscape portraits as well.
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Canon 0111C001 PowerShot SX610

Slim and easy to carry, the Canon 0111C001 PowerShot SX610 is a camera that is prepared to go with you wherever you want to take it. The Canon 0111C001 PowerShot SX610 allows you to close in on the subject of your shots no matter where they might be in relation to you, thanks to the 18 times optical zoom that the camera features. There is a 20.2 megapixel high sensitivity CMOS sensor that combines with the DIGIC 4+ Image Processor to provide you with stunning, high quality photographs. The Canon 0111C001 PowerShot SX610 allows you to take smooth, still shots and video thanks to the image stabilization properties of the Intelligent IS system. It comes with both Wifi and NFC, making it simple for you to transfer your pictures onto your smartphone or similar device. The image quality of the Canon 0111C001 PowerShot SX610 is outstanding, even in low light, making this camera the perfect choice for any opportunity, anywhere at all.
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Nikon’s CoolPix W100

Waterproof up to 33 feet underwater, the Nikon COOLPIX W100 is an outdoor camera that will be ready and waiting at your side to capture the memories of all of your outdoor adventures. This Nikon COOLPIX W100 can be taken to the beach, the pool, to the ski slopes and more without fear of it getting dropped into moisture and ruined. This Nikon COOLPIX W100 is able to resist shock from drops as high up as 5.9 feet and is able to resist the cold as low as 14 degrees Fahrenheit. It is resistant to any dust, making it perfect for taking on any rugged adventures with you. The Nikon COOLPIX W100 allows you to take high-quality shots and videos complete with stereo sound and then transfer them over to your smartphone or other device, thanks to the SnapBridge technology. It has one-touch buttons as well as a generally easy-to-use interface that makes using the Nikon COOLPIX W100 a dream.
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Ultimate Guide to Portrait Photography

Written by MasterClass

Portrait photography is a style of photography that portrays human subjects. Portrait photography has been around since the dawn of photography, when Louis Daguerre invented the daguerreotype in 1839--the same year that Robert Cornelius aimed the camera at himself and took what is widely believed to be the first self portrait photograph ever, laying the groundwork for portrait photography to emerge as its own art form. Cheap, fast, and portable, portrait photography soon replaced traditional hand-painted portraiture, allowing photographers more freedom in documenting the human condition.
Portraits tell stories of not just people but also of time, culture, experience, and place. Whether you’re taking casual photos of relatives or friends, or setting up a professional shoot like for headshots, there are a few basic portrait photography tips and techniques that will ensure a positive experience and successful outcome.

In This Article

• All About Camera Settings
• Photoshoot Environments
• Getting Comfortable With Your Subject
• Practice Makes Perfect

All About Camera Settings

In theory, any camera, from a disposable to a smartphone to digital cameras, is suited for portrait photography. DSLRs or mirrorless point-and-shoot cameras are ideal since they offer manual settings, affording a photographer tight control over adjustments like exposure, aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. The dynamic nature of the subject paired with a wide range of environments, from professional studios to the great outdoors, means there is no one-size-fits-all setting for a camera. What is important to keep in mind, instead, is the relationship between your lens, your subject, and your background.
For experienced photographers, lens choice is a matter of personal preference. For beginners, start with a lens between 85mm and 135mm before experimenting with zoom lenses or longer telephoto lenses for close-up photos. The 85 through 135 range is considered prime for portraits because these focal lengths (or, the millimeters between the camera’s sensor and the lens) provide the sharpest result without widening or flattening the subject too much. These portrait lenses also provide some room to play with blurring the background; you can achieve this effect, known as a shallow depth of field, by widening the aperture to a low setting and maximizing the distance between your subject and the intended focus of the blur.
Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are all related to the brightness, or exposure level, of the image. Factor in the unpredictability of human nature (scratching, sneezing, blinking) along with the infinite variances in skin tone and bone structure, and the task of properly exposing an image may seem daunting. Take your time with test shots, playing with shutter speed and aperture to find the most appropriate light. If you prefer a quicker shutter speed to minimize motion, you might lose some brightness; this is easily re-introduced by raising the ISO.

Photoshoot Environments

The environment you choose to shoot in goes hand in hand with your camera settings. There are two broad categories of environments: indoors and outdoors. Indoors includes homes, places of work, and professional studios complete with backdrops, a full lighting setup (flash and all), and other props. Outdoor settings range from the urban, like city streets, to the natural, like gardens and parks. When selecting an environment, do consider that a soft, diffused natural light from an indirect source is best for shooting portraits. Direct, harsh light or a full sun can cast unwanted dark shadows. A flash can, of course, be used as supplementary lighting, but the resulting images may exhibit a staged quality that contradicts the essence of a portrait.

Getting Comfortable With Your Subject

Besides deftly handling a camera, a good portrait photographer is well-versed in the art of making people feel comfortable. Ideally, this relationship-building begins before a shoot. Consider meeting your subject for coffee and learning more about them: what are their interests and hobbies? What do they do for work, and how does that make them feel? What are some places that hold meaning for them? Could they share any pictures of themselves that they love? This pre-shoot research demonstrates a thoughtfulness that should facilitate a more productive and comfortable shoot.
There may be scenarios, however, in which you won’t have time to do extensive research before taking someone’s portrait. In this case, it is first and foremost important to obtain the person’s approval. Be respectful in your approach and kind throughout the process. Fortunately, unlike buildings, roads, or even wildlife, human subjects have the added benefit of offering a photographer feedback, whether consciously or subconsciously. Some people blossom in front of the camera while others become shy. Some might be willing to sit for hours while others might want to rush through the process. The portrait photographer bears the responsibility of interpreting the subject’s body language and making tweaks to the process as they see fit.
Sharing parts of the process also helps people feel comfortable. If your subject is shy, try suggesting a handful of poses to warm them up. Show the result on camera and ask what the subject thinks, what they like and what they dislike. Offer advice for improving the shot. Making the process collaborative simultaneously empowers the subject and allows the photographer to get not just a great portrait, but also a true one.

Practice Makes Perfect

There are a few simple ways to accelerate your skill development in portrait photography. First, focus on the eyes. Eyes are evocative and powerful; eyes tell a person’s story, reveal a person’s moods. Compose the portrait so that the eyes are a central focal point. Consider blurring the background to place even more emphasis on the facial features.
Next, be mindful of the camera’s angle in relation to the subject’s height. When shooting children, for example, place yourself on their level instead of shooting down (which is the difference in demonstrating equality and individuality versus diminishing the subject or talking down to them). There might be some instances in more creative portraiture in which experimenting with angles will yield interesting results. Get creative, but also keep in mind a few unflattering angles to avoid, like upshots from below the chin. You want to make yourself look and feel good.
Portrait photography is a very intimate art form. It can feel intimidating, especially at the beginning, since the photographer’s goal is essentially to capture the subject’s soul on camera. Start practicing with someone you already have rapport with and ask them to provide you with feedback on your style. A confident photographer knows that there is always more to learn.

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The 7 Best Digital Cameras Under $200

by Commerce Editor  

Our editors independently research, test, and recommend the best products; you can learn more about our review process here. We may receive commissions on purchases made from our chosen links.

Thanks to technological advancements, the best cheap digital cameras are as powerful and feature-rich as top digital cameras from a few years ago. You don't have to spend a lot of money find good, inexpensive digital cameras.

Some photographers consider the price point of up to and including $200 to be the perfect sweet spot for someone who's new to photography. Not only will you receive a pretty good value on the $200-and-under camera, but it should have some decent features and capabilities. This is also a great price point for finding slightly older but still strong cameras from 18 to 24 months ago that have now dropped in price as the manufacturer clears out the inventory.

If you're willing to take the risk, you may find some really strong cameras in this price point that are used or refurbished. Of course, a used camera probably won't have a warranty associated with it, so you'll need to have some confidence in the person who is selling the model. Still, if you can get few years' worth of work out of a used camera in this price point, it'll have been worth the investment.

For this list, we're sticking to relatively new cameras. Here are the best cheap digital cameras under $200.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Nikon CoolPix A10

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In the sub-$200 category, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better camera than the Nikon CoolPix A10. Allowing for a respectable 5X Optical Zoom with the NIKKOR glass lens, this Sony can clearly capture the detail even from a great distance. With an ergonomic design reminiscent of traditional SLR cameras, the CoolPix A10 sits comfortably in your hands and looks fantastic. Several special features make this camera stand out, like six camera filter types such as Portrait mode and Party Mode, which automatically adjusts the flash to match the available lighting, as well as Picture Effect, which lets you add a creative touch to your photos through edits.

The 2.7-inch LCD display screen makes it easy to compose shots and navigate settings even in direct sunlight. Great for filming short movies, the Nikon CoolPix A10 records at 720p and delivers sharp video quality. While not as customizable as a more expensive model, this camera is guaranteed to capture fine detail and vibrant color, making it perfect for anyone wanting to take their photography to the next level.

Best Compact Point-and-Shoot: Canon PowerShot ELPH 190 IS

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Canon has a long track record of producing top-notch cameras for any budget or experience level. With the Canon PowerShot ELPH, you get a compact point-and-shoot digital camera that delivers crisp image quality for the amateur photographer at an extremely reasonable price point.

This camera excels at its ease of use. With up to 10X zoom capabilities and an Optical Image Stabilizer, your photos will come out clear with every shot. The Smart AUTO function selects the appropriate settings for any given situation, so that you don’t have to. Once you’ve captured the perfect image, built-in WiFi capabilities allow for quick and easy photo transfers to your device of choice, which makes sharing your favorite pictures a breeze.

The Canon PowerShot ELPH also comes equipped with a few fun settings, such as Fisheye, Toy Camera and Monochrome effects, as well as HD video, so you can get creative with your imagery. Available in black, blue or red and small enough to fit in your pocket, the Canon PowerShot ELPH is the perfect point-and-shoot camera for amateur photographers who want a camera that is highly portable and easy to use without sacrificing quality.

Check out our other reviews of the best Canon cameras​ available on the market today.

Best Waterproof Point-and-Shoot: Nikon’s CoolPix W100

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Nikon’s CoolPix W100 is a go-anywhere, do-anything type of camera that is ready to tackle ocean photography right out of the box. Capable of going underwater up to a depth of 33 feet, the Nikon is also shockproof from a drop of 5.9 feet, as well as freezeproof all the way down to a temperature of 14 degrees Fahrenheit. Snapping shots with the W100 underwater is a 13.2-megapixel CMOS image sensor and NIKKOR 3x optical zoom with a 6x dynamic fine zoom. Once you’ve concluded your latest underwater adventure, moving pictures off the W100 is a snap, thanks to Wi-Fi, NFC and Bluetooth connectivity alongside Nikon’s SnapBridge app that’s compatible with both iOS and Android devices. It weighs .82 pounds and the rated battery life allows for a fairly standard 220 shots before requiring a re-charge. If your adventurous side keeps you away from charging for days at a time, a second battery is highly recommended to ensure you can capture every shot 20,000 leagues under the sea.

Want to take a look at some other options? See our guide to the best waterproof cameras.


Best Budget: Sony DSCW800/B

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It can be a struggle to find a decent camera that balances image quality with affordability. The Sony DSCW800/B 20.1-megapixel digital camera offers all the basic features that you would need with a point-and-shoot camera for a seriously affordable price. While you would get slightly more features with a more expensive model, the Sony DSCW800/B allows for 5X optical zoom, SteadyShot image stabilization, 360^o panoramic capabilities and a 720p HD movie setting for recording high-quality videos. Sony’s simple and compact model makes it perfect for everyday use, and a USB charging port allows you to take this camera on-the-go.

Best Design: Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Instant Film Camera

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Here’s a trip down memory lane. The Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 is just one in a large line of instant cameras produced by Fujilfilm and its competitor Polaroid. What makes the Mini 90 Neo Classic unique is its impressive vintage design. It looks like something from before the digital age.

To be clear, this camera serves a very specific purpose: It shoots and immediately prints images like an old Polaroid. If that’s not something you’re into, turn away now. If it is, buckle in. The Mini 90 can automatically detect the brightness of its surroundings and adjust the flash and shutter speed accordingly—much like a digital camera. Macro mode allows for short distance photography as close as 30-60 cm, and the Kids mode boosts the shutter speed for capturing fast moving objects. Perhaps coolest of all, the Mini 90 has a double exposure mode that captures two images on one film sheet. This allows for a variety of creative options when combined with the macro, light/dark options, timer and flash modes.

Still can't decide on what you want? Our round-up of the best instant cameras can help you find what you're looking for.

Best Starter Kit: Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-H300 Bundle

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When you think of Sony cameras now, your mind probably turns to their wide range of mirrorless options, which makes sense because Sony really has pulled ahead in that segment of the market. But if you’re looking for a solid camera package that won't break the $200 mark, you’ll want to take a look at their DSC-H300 bundle.

First, the camera’s specs: there’s a 20.1MP sensor for a ton of pixels (more than some DSLRs); it’s a fixed lens, but it offers a 35x optical zoom for tons of distance flexibility without digital degradation; plus, it looks and feels like a DSLR so you’ll get used to that functionality before diving into the more intermediate market. This particular bundle is great for starters as it comes with a 16GB SD card for storing your photos, an SD card reader for interfacing with your computer, rechargeable batteries, a holster camera bag, a cleaning kit and even a lens pen.

Best Action Cam: SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera

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SJCam’s Legend SJ6 Action Camera is the ideal purchase to make sure you never miss a moment no matter where you are on Earth, no matter the conditions. Featuring gyro stabilization, slow-motion recording, a metal body for durability and an external microphone for increased audio capturing, the SJ6 is an action camera that’s made for being right in the thick of any activity. The camera offers a F/2.5 aperture and a 16-megapixel sensor that captures a wide 166-degree viewing angle. Images and video can be previewed on the two-inch touchscreen, while the .96-inch front display offers quick access to a timer. Beyond photography, the SJ6 captures 1080p video at either 60 or 30fps, as well as 720p video at 120 or 60fps. An external storage card up to 32GB can boost the available memory for keeping captured video on the SJ6 before it’s moved off to another device. The 1000mAh battery offers around 65 minutes of battery life at 60fps and 113 minutes of video capture at 30fps. And the included waterproof case allows the SJ6 to go below water up to 100 feet for 30 minutes.

Interested in reading more reviews? Take a look at our selection of the best action cameras.

Courtesy of: Lifewire


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